I believe I saw that video as well.. I asked David about it and he said they are a LOT of work and rather complicated.? but that's for the K975 slider.. Not sure about the Kappa 400 though

On Wednesday, July 29, 2020, 04:59:19 AM PDT, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

Didn’t I see a video where David B made one for his saw? Not sure which one but it was the 3 piece which I think is on the 900 series and the Kappa although not sure if they are all the same geometry.

David? Poke,poke...

Regards, Mark

On Jul 29, 2020, at 7:43 AM, Bill Bélanger <Bllblngr@...> wrote:

you have a Kappa 400 right Bill?

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020, 08:49:59 PM PDT, Bill Bélanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:

I have the same question as Imran Randy. I’d love to have a zci for my saw

Bill Belanger?

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 23:00 imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:

Randy, did you get one for K975? if one fits i will get one as well.

imran

On Jul 28, 2020, at 8:50 PM, Randy Child via <strongman_one=[email protected]> wrote:

?

I can vouch for Ramon.. he's the real deal and a great guy.. posts really great woodworking tips and tricks and stuff on Instagram

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020, 09:28:21 AM PDT, Ramon Valdez <valdezfinefurniture@...> wrote:

Hey gang...I’m new to the forum, but thought I’d share my ZCI’s. As you all know, most sliding table saws have much to be desired when it comes to the saw blade insert. Small off-cuts are constantly getting jammed or flung across the shop! There is simply too much space around the blade, or even with other zero clearance inserts, once the blade plunges through it, there is only a small amount of insert material remaining to the left of the blade. Weak!?

Mine are superb!?

These quality ZCI’s will minimize tear out, eliminate small off-cuts from getting wedged, and make cutting on your Hammer K-3 so much safer!??Made of Baltic Birch and covered on both sides with high pressure laminate (Formica) that is adhered with epoxy (rather than contact cement)...this creates a smooth, strong and very rigid insert.

I’ve shipped over 70 of these with hugely positive feedback. So far these fit:?

Hammer K-3

Felder CF-531

Hammer C3 31

Felder K500P and K500S (please check! The length of mine are 22 13/16” or 579 mm)?

The first link/video (scroll down to see video) shows the inserts in action...the second link is a vid that shows an easy and safe way to elongate the saw kerf to accommodate the riving knife.? And how I cut the slot for the scoring blade.? Thanks a ton, Ramon

Ramon Valdez

Randy, did you get one for K975? if one fits i will get one as well.

imran

On Jul 28, 2020, at 8:50 PM, Randy Child via <strongman_one=[email protected]> wrote:

?

I can vouch for Ramon.. he's the real deal and a great guy.. posts really great woodworking tips and tricks and stuff on Instagram

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020, 09:28:21 AM PDT, Ramon Valdez <valdezfinefurniture@...> wrote:

Hey gang...I’m new to the forum, but thought I’d share my ZCI’s. As you all know, most sliding table saws have much to be desired when it comes to the saw blade insert. Small off-cuts are constantly getting jammed or flung across the shop! There is simply too much space around the blade, or even with other zero clearance inserts, once the blade plunges through it, there is only a small amount of insert material remaining to the left of the blade. Weak!?

Mine are superb!?

These quality ZCI’s will minimize tear out, eliminate small off-cuts from getting wedged, and make cutting on your Hammer K-3 so much safer!??Made of Baltic Birch and covered on both sides with high pressure laminate (Formica) that is adhered with epoxy (rather than contact cement)...this creates a smooth, strong and very rigid insert.

I’ve shipped over 70 of these with hugely positive feedback. So far these fit:?

Hammer K-3

Felder CF-531

Hammer C3 31

Felder K500P and K500S (please check! The length of mine are 22 13/16” or 579 mm)?

The first link/video (scroll down to see video) shows the inserts in action...the second link is a vid that shows an easy and safe way to elongate the saw kerf to accommodate the riving knife.? And how I cut the slot for the scoring blade.? Thanks a ton, Ramon

Ramon Valdez

Dave –

?

It came pre-drilled because I ordered it that way.? The Felder Catalog/Book shows a “Power feeder mount” for an AD/A 951, Format-4/dual 51 (Part No. 430-112) under Power feeders accessories (page 465 in my book).? From the picture, it is a different mounting bracket than mine, and I do not know what my part number is.? Mine appears to be shaped similar to the Hammer tilt away device (Part No 501-127) (same page in the book), but that clearly is not it.?

?

I ordered mine through Jesse at Felder Delaware, and he knew what to spec for the machine.? It is definitely heavy/sturdy!?

?

Skip

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Davies
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] PF Bracket on AD 941

?

Did you have to drill the mounting holes in your AD941 or did it come with them predrilled?? Thanks for the pictures.

Dave

?

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 8:41 PM Averman, Ed (FAA) via <Ed.Averman=[email protected]> wrote:

Well – I just received what I sent, and all pics are oriented correctly.? Kind of makes my explanation below nonsensical since you won’t see the mis-orientation that was on my screen before I sent the email.?

?

Oh well!?

?

Skip

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Averman, Ed (FAA) via
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:37 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] FW: PF Bracket on AD 941

?

Dave et. al.? --?

?

Here’s pics of my Felder Power Feeder bracket and how it mounts on my AD 941.? You can see that you have to remove both Left and Right access panels.? Only the Right panel is removed for bolt access in the photos.?

?

Apologies for the mis-orientation of the pics – sometimes they show up that way, and sometimes they appear correctly.? ?I sent them from my i phone.? ?Even when pics are rotated wrongly on my screen, they appear right-side up (sometimes) on a recipient’s screen.? ?So, I can’t say what you might see.?? What’s even weirder, yesterday I tried twice to send a picture to this computer and to another.? The same picture rotated 90 degrees on this one and appeared correctly on the other.? A companion picture showed up correctly oriented on this one.? Maybe it is operator error, but the results seem to be random even when I do the process exactly the same way.?

?

Anyway, ‘hope this helps!?? B/T/W – The mounting system for those access panels is really squirrely IMHO!?

?

Skip

?

From: Skip Averman <skip.averman@...>
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:14 PM
To: Averman, Ed (FAA) <ed.averman@...>
Subject: PF Bracket on AD 941

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

--

Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868

Well – I just received what I sent, and all pics are oriented correctly.? Kind of makes my explanation below nonsensical since you won’t see the mis-orientation that was on my screen before I sent the email.?

?

Oh well!?

?

Skip

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Averman, Ed (FAA) via
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:37 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] FW: PF Bracket on AD 941

?

Dave et. al.? --?

?

Here’s pics of my Felder Power Feeder bracket and how it mounts on my AD 941.? You can see that you have to remove both Left and Right access panels.? Only the Right panel is removed for bolt access in the photos.?

?

Apologies for the mis-orientation of the pics – sometimes they show up that way, and sometimes they appear correctly.? ?I sent them from my i phone.? ?Even when pics are rotated wrongly on my screen, they appear right-side up (sometimes) on a recipient’s screen.? ?So, I can’t say what you might see.?? What’s even weirder, yesterday I tried twice to send a picture to this computer and to another.? The same picture rotated 90 degrees on this one and appeared correctly on the other.? A companion picture showed up correctly oriented on this one.? Maybe it is operator error, but the results seem to be random even when I do the process exactly the same way.?

?

Anyway, ‘hope this helps!?? B/T/W – The mounting system for those access panels is really squirrely IMHO!?

?

Skip

?

From: Skip Averman <skip.averman@...>
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:14 PM
To: Averman, Ed (FAA) <ed.averman@...>
Subject: PF Bracket on AD 941

?

?

?

?

?

?

Well, your metal equipment is heavy, a decent sized mill can be 4000-6000 pounds, a lathe, that kind of depends on size, but maybe 2500 to 5000 pounds. I think, given you’ll spend more time in the woodshop, I’d take the upper story and better light and views for that. Short sidewalls shouldn’t be much of an issue as you can always line the walls with storage or machines that don’t require much height. The ceilings will rise pretty fast as you move a few feet from the wall if it’s going to 16’ at the center. Heat rises, so in the winter the upper floor should be easier to keep warm. The lower floor, given it’s bunkered, will be more consistent in temps.

Try to isolate the wood from the metal side, as the dust on the metalworking machines turns into a pain in the butt… I hate dealing with it in my shop.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...

On Jul 28, 2020, at 5:30 PM, Anthony Quesada <tonymiga2@...> wrote:

Thank you everyone for the continued help.? Next question is aimed particularly at those with metal shop experience.... Mac, Brian L, David Best and numerous others that I look forward to meeting.?

Quick recap (location-Maine):

• Two-story addition- ?"T-shaped" building tying into an existing 2 story barn
• 1st Floor-?flat ceilings with roughly 10' clearance floor to ceiling
• 2nd Floor-Vaulted ceiling with low 7' clearance where wall meets pitched roof, but quickly more head height as you move away from the walls.
• Built on hill side with easy drive up access to both floors (House is on down hill side so slightly harder to get to 2nd level)
• Currently require more sq/ft for wood working than metal working, but I have only started metal working a few years ago and it is a growing interest
  • Currently 60/40 time spent on wood vs metal

-Discounting any fireproofing or structural load issues and considering the following, would you want metal or wood shop on first floor?

1st Floor- 10' ceilings?
Positives:

• Slightly more convenient access from house
• Wall space to hang tools and store lumber or metal

Negatives:

• Less windows and natural light (built into hill side)
• Less volumous feel

2nd floor- Vaulted ceilings 16'+ at ridge
Positives:

• Better view
• Opportunity for nice natural light with large windows at gable ends
• Open and airy feel in middle of the room?

Negatives of 2nd Floor:

• Limited (height) wall space due to short side walls where pitched roof meets walls
• Warmer during summer months and probably harder to heat in winter?

Thanks so much
Anthony?


These are pictures of existing barn. This was made with reclaimed wood from a mill we renovated, so I won't regrettably have access to these old timbers again, but will likely use glue-lam or similar
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