David Best has pictures and such on his Flickr feed
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It would, I have to try and figure out how to make one for my k975..only the center part of the insert..there's 3 inserts on my saw
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 10:27:35 AM PST, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Zero clearance insert would help.
I dont think anything is perfect..no matter what is used.. a lot of variables come into play..material, any sort of vibration, user error from feeding..etc.. it's all a matter of how OCD we choose to be..?
Would I like a perfect, flawless dado groove? Sure..who wouldn't,? but I've tried quite a few dado blades from Forrest, Amana Felder and a host of others and at some point all of them have a smidge of tear-out in the course of running 100's of board feet thru them.. again, it's all how picky and critical we choose to be. While I find the dado groove not 100% perfect, I'm not going to split hairs but I will keep trying to get it as close as humanely possible
All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks, That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Whatever works best for you..that's what you use..that goes for anyone?
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 10:34:17 AM PST, jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:
Then your slider would have to zeroed to the cast iron or the zero clearance insert. I'll stick to my Freud for Melamine.?
-------- Original message -------- From: Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> Date: 2020-01-25 1:27 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder Dado blade
Zero clearance insert would help.
I dont think anything is perfect..no matter what is used.. a lot of variables come into play..material, any sort of vibration, user error from feeding..etc.. it's all a matter of how OCD we choose to be..?
Would I like a perfect, flawless dado groove? Sure..who wouldn't,? but I've tried quite a few dado blades from Forrest, Amana Felder and a host of others and at some point all of them have a smidge of tear-out in the course of running 100's of board feet thru them.. again, it's all how picky and critical we choose to be. While I find the dado groove not 100% perfect, I'm not going to split hairs but I will keep trying to get it as close as humanely possible
All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks, That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
It would, I have to try and figure out how to make one for my k975..only the center part of the insert..there's 3 inserts on my saw
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 10:27:35 AM PST, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
Zero clearance insert would help.
I dont think anything is perfect..no matter what is used.. a lot of variables come into play..material, any sort of vibration, user error from feeding..etc.. it's all a matter of how OCD we choose to be..?
Would I like a perfect, flawless dado groove? Sure..who wouldn't,? but I've tried quite a few dado blades from Forrest, Amana Felder and a host of others and at some point all of them have a smidge of tear-out in the course of running 100's of board feet thru them.. again, it's all how picky and critical we choose to be. While I find the dado groove not 100% perfect, I'm not going to split hairs but I will keep trying to get it as close as humanely possible
All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks, That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Not really, set the zero clearance insert high so that it is perfect to the slider, it¡¯s just some jack screws. The few times I¡¯ve done a dado like that I use the shaper spindle, or a router bit in the high speed spindle as my machine is before dado capability.
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Then your slider would have to zeroed to the cast iron or the zero clearance insert. I'll stick to my Freud for Melamine.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-01-25 1:27 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder Dado blade
Zero clearance insert would help.
I dont think anything is perfect..no matter what is used.. a lot of variables come into play..material, any sort of vibration, user error from feeding..etc.. it's all a matter of how OCD we choose to be..?
Would I like a perfect, flawless dado groove? Sure..who wouldn't,? but I've tried quite a few dado blades from Forrest, Amana Felder and a host of others and at some point all of them have a smidge of tear-out in the course of running 100's of board feet thru them.. again, it's all how picky and critical we choose to be. While I find the dado groove not 100% perfect, I'm not going to split hairs but I will keep trying to get it as close as humanely possible
All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks, That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Then your slider would have to zeroed to the cast iron or the zero clearance insert. I'll stick to my Freud for Melamine.?
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Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> Date: 2020-01-25 1:27 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder Dado blade
Zero clearance insert would help.
I dont think anything is perfect..no matter what is used.. a lot of variables come into play..material, any sort of vibration, user error from feeding..etc.. it's all a matter of how OCD we choose to be..?
Would I like a perfect, flawless dado groove? Sure..who wouldn't,? but I've tried quite a few dado blades from Forrest, Amana Felder and a host of others and at some point all of them have a smidge of tear-out in the course of running 100's of board feet thru them.. again, it's all how picky and critical we choose to be. While I find the dado groove not 100% perfect, I'm not going to split hairs but I will keep trying to get it as close as humanely possible
All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks, That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Zero clearance insert would help.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I dont think anything is perfect..no matter what is used.. a lot of variables come into play..material, any sort of vibration, user error from feeding..etc.. it's all a matter of how OCD we choose to be..?
Would I like a perfect, flawless dado groove? Sure..who wouldn't,? but I've tried quite a few dado blades from Forrest, Amana Felder and a host of others and at some point all of them have a smidge of tear-out in the course of running 100's of board feet thru them.. again, it's all how picky and critical we choose to be. While I find the dado groove not 100% perfect, I'm not going to split hairs but I will keep trying to get it as close as humanely possible
All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks, That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
I dont think anything is perfect..no matter what is used.. a lot of variables come into play..material, any sort of vibration, user error from feeding..etc.. it's all a matter of how OCD we choose to be..?
Would I like a perfect, flawless dado groove? Sure..who wouldn't,? but I've tried quite a few dado blades from Forrest, Amana Felder and a host of others and at some point all of them have a smidge of tear-out in the course of running 100's of board feet thru them.. again, it's all how picky and critical we choose to be. While I find the dado groove not 100% perfect, I'm not going to split hairs but I will keep trying to get it as close as humanely possible
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 09:02:13 AM PST, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks,
That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
That was an excellent thread before the forum got stupid with over moderation and most of the people with a brain left. Joe has always been an amazing source of information. Earlier I got a bit of Zuani and whatever they sold before that but now it's mainly from Royce - Ayr Tooling custom made and local to me.?
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-------- Original message -------- From: "joelgelman via Groups.Io" <joelgelman@...> Date: 2020-01-25 12:23 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder Dado blade
see post by Joe Calhoon on this thread of that public forum.
|
see post by Joe Calhoon on this thread of that public forum.
|
All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks,
That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
|
I don¡¯t have dado capability, so this may be a dumb question, but are you only using that half of the cutter for a 1/4¡± dado? If so, you have side scoring cutters on one side of the groove only. I thought you were to use the other half and they interlock together and can be adjusted with spacers for different slot widths. Also, how wide are the bottom flattening inserts? If they could be set .005¡± above the flat surface like you are showing, then I suspect you¡¯d get an even better side finish.
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On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io < strongman_one@...> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
|
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
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Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
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Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Thanks Randy. That would be awesome.
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 7:12 AM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Good morning Imran..
I don't believe my saw will start when the cover is open. But I will check again just to make sure.. I too, want to find out if my cover is opening too far as well..From the looks of David's saw, it seems like both of our covers are opening too far..I'll shoot a text to Greg and ask him what's missing and DM you with what I find out
Randy
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 04:03:30 AM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Make sure that your saw does not run with cover open. In my case it does. You want to be aware if that safety feature is not there to protect you.
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 6:39 AM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Hi David..
Hmm..I wonder if mine has an issue as well if it's not suppose to hit the lower carriage.. I'm going to look at the parts diagram and see if there's something missing on the both of Imran and my saw.. I do see that small bracket below the scoring blade arbor and notice that is not on my saw as well
I'll also shoot an e mail to Greg Bryson and ask him if he can look into it further
Thanks?
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 10:18:10 PM PST, david@... <david@...> wrote:
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
<PastedGraphic-1.tiff>
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Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Good morning Imran..
I don't believe my saw will start when the cover is open. But I will check again just to make sure.. I too, want to find out if my cover is opening too far as well..From the looks of David's saw, it seems like both of our covers are opening too far..I'll shoot a text to Greg and ask him what's missing and DM you with what I find out
Randy
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 04:03:30 AM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Make sure that your saw does not run with cover open. In my case it does. You want to be aware if that safety feature is not there to protect you.
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 6:39 AM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Hi David..
Hmm..I wonder if mine has an issue as well if it's not suppose to hit the lower carriage.. I'm going to look at the parts diagram and see if there's something missing on the both of Imran and my saw.. I do see that small bracket below the scoring blade arbor and notice that is not on my saw as well
I'll also shoot an e mail to Greg Bryson and ask him if he can look into it further
Thanks?
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 10:18:10 PM PST, david@... <david@...> wrote:
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
<PastedGraphic-1.tiff>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Randy,
Make sure that your saw does not run with cover open. In my case it does. You want to be aware if that safety feature is not there to protect you.
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 6:39 AM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Hi David..
Hmm..I wonder if mine has an issue as well if it's not suppose to hit the lower carriage.. I'm going to look at the parts diagram and see if there's something missing on the both of Imran and my saw.. I do see that small bracket below the scoring blade arbor and notice that is not on my saw as well
I'll also shoot an e mail to Greg Bryson and ask him if he can look into it further
Thanks?
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 10:18:10 PM PST, david@... <david@...> wrote:
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
<PastedGraphic-1.tiff>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Randy, I am sorry that I did not notice that you had added pics until David mentioned it. They were at bottom of the email string. Reason, I did not follow right away what you were communicating.
David, thanks for the details. After seeing your pic, I realized that I have seen this before. I checked the drawings and do not see anything. I will ask Felder. Well I am out for 6 weeks so no shop time until March ?
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 1:18 AM, "david@..." <david@...> wrote:
? Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Hi David..
Hmm..I wonder if mine has an issue as well if it's not suppose to hit the lower carriage.. I'm going to look at the parts diagram and see if there's something missing on the both of Imran and my saw.. I do see that small bracket below the scoring blade arbor and notice that is not on my saw as well
I'll also shoot an e mail to Greg Bryson and ask him if he can look into it further
Thanks?
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 10:18:10 PM PST, david@... <david@...> wrote:
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
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On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
|
imran
David P. Best