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??? ?On Wed, Jan 22, 2020 at 09:42 AM, imranindiana wrote: Is this your first jointer? I am 100% with you on that point. Yes this is my first Jointer. As soon as the board pass the cutter

I am 100% with you on that point. Yes this is my first Jointer. As soon as the board pass the cutter heads I do not put any hand on the infeed side, all my hands are on the outfeed pushing down and

Hi Bill, Is this your first jointer? I know that I owned my first Bridgewood 8” jointer for probably 15 yrs and used it a few times and did not get good results. After getting Dual51, since I was

Yes it is construction from big box retailers. I do have 2x8 dried pine somewhere, will redo with those. Bill

Hi Bill, Is the 2x4 construction grade? If so, i would suggest working with a piece of wood dried to 6-8%. This would eliminate the possibility that the variation is coming from wood that was never

Mark, I do not plan to unscrew everything at first. I will check everything, figuring out where are the areas I might be able to get it better. Then, only, I will decide if it is worth it or not.

Mark, I put my johnson level/ straight edge on top of the 2x4 and use feeler gages to see where are the dips and how big they are. I assume my johnson is straight and my feeler gage are correct. I did

I just took mine off the pallet and did not know much about measuring flatness. I did the basic checks Felder recommended and looked ok to me. I have used it for 6 years and am happy with the wood

John, let me know if you need some. Thanks for not “OK Boomer-ing” me. The original idea came from Art Pentz RIP). David Best - via mobile phone

to get it as good as I can. How are you measuring that? Generally speaking, Hammer owners who demand "less than the thickness of a human hair" precision are disappointed. [email protected]> wrote:

I have some T nut stock that has a raised area in the center that fits the top of the Tee pretty tight. Loosening up the nut drops the whole thing below that raised area so the nut travels more

Thanks Jim, Maybe what I am trying to achieve is not the right way to do so, Bill

Lot of great feedback, Lot of homework to do, Yes I did run a 2x4 - 4ft. I ended up with dip at the ends instead of the middle as it should have been done at the factory. However, if I move the fence

Definitely hilarious David, I really like the carbon paper that's a new one pal. Bill just out of curiosity have run any wood over the jointer yet to see if you actually have any issues.?JohnJMK

As a Boomer, I just can’t help myself. ? I use carbon paper to check if both temple bolts rest against the underside of the table equally. Put the carbon paper on top of the temple bolts, carbon

Always take measurements with the tables locked. If it's typical Felder setup you will probably need to lower the outfeed to avoid a spring cut. Others will have to offer adjustment advice I last had

I suppose I might know a bit about your issue of material getting trapped in the upper portion of the cyclone. First do not look for or add one of the supplemental inlet holes. Not needed and will

Follow up questions for the ones who have mess up with A3 setup, - How do you know if the hinge and latch supports touch the tables at the same time? Do let the tables on the supports without locking

That's generally how all tracked extrusions are Bill. Some people make tighter fitting stuff for linear travel purposes for 80/20, etc. but I've never seen that for plain t-track. Jim

Looking for a somewhat off topic feedback, I am wondering whether to put T tracks on my outfeed table for my slider as I want to use this table as an assembly table. Looking at all the T tracks