Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- Felderownersgroup
- Messages
Search
|
Locating DC and air compressor in same space?
Steve Kusterer
I have a space that fit both the dust collector and air compressor.
However, the air compressor needs clean air. Since I haven't used a real DC before - do you know if the air coming out of a DC (say an Oneida) is clean enough that it won't foul the air compressor? Sorry for the barrage of initial questions, but the shop is taking shape and I'm pretty darn excited! Thanks again... Steve |
|
Re: Speed control
Wolfgang Geiger
Hi Scott,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
FELDER offers a speed control for 3 phase as well. The 3 phase speed control is considerable more expensive than the inverter solution due to the larger HP rating. For normal woodworking operations the 3 speeds of 3700, 6500 and 7800 rpm covers most of the tooling available. Higher speeds may be desired for very small cutterheads, slower speeds may be desired for sanding operations. Also the 15000 rpm of the router spindle covers a wide range of router bits. Again here higher speeds may be desired for very small bits or slower speeds for very large bits. Give me a call if you are interested in the price difference. Wolfgang ----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Slater <scott@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 11:36 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Speed control Hi,felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
|
|
Re: Sound Proofing Materials
Jon van der Linden
Steve,
You're going to have to inovate and try a few things out. The dust collector will be the most challenging, what you really want an enclosure that will deaden the sound. The difficulty is that any gaps significantly increase sound transmission, and you need gaps for air flow. If you have space, you can set up a baffle inside any box you build around the DC. The longer air path will deaden the sound a bit, how much is the real question. You might also want to check with an air system supplier about how large an opening you need in the box for the DC to work efficiently. An earlier reply mentioned foam sheets as the best, they work well because they both isolate and absorb - there are few gaps, and they do not reflect sound as much as sheet rock, wood, or concrete. I would use those as insulation in making a box for the DC. Those sheets work well inside of doors too! Good luck, let us all know how it works out! Jon I appreciate all the responses - thanks!that just "passing through" the workshop terminating in the family room.DC that also provides the necessary air flow from the DC back into thethe necessary air flow from that "room" back into the workshop. Again, theseDC from the rest of the house. Ideas?felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
|
|
Re: Sound Proofing Materials
Charlie Norton
I wish I was further along in my DC system to provide first hand advice, but
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
here is what I am implementing to achieve the goal of sound isolation for the dust collector: I have placed the DC in an enclosed space (an "isolation chamber") that is pierced in four locations: 1) Air inlet (7" spiral pipe). 2) Air exhaust (6" spiral pipe). 3) Cooling air intake (6" opening) 4) Cooling air exhaust (8" X 14") The air exhaust is directed outside my shop (my poor neighbors!). I will have separate vents at the opposite end of my shop (my wife thinks it is a garage and actually parks her car in it) to provide for an air return. Based on some very preliminary testing, the DC is quieted down significantly, although I still have much more soundproofing to do. Some of the noise is coming through the cooling air exhaust which is open to the shop. The DC sounds like an F-16 when in the shop, but will probably be quite tolerable once all buttoned up. Still very noticeable, however. If you do house your DC in an enclosed space, give consideration toward cooling the system. In order to achieve a 10 degree C temp rise in my enclosure, I require 200 cfm cooling air. This is easily accomplished with a fan from Grainger or other source. If you know how much power you will be required to dissipate, I would be happy to help you estimate the airflow required. Hope this helps! --Charlie -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kusterer <spkerer@...> To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...> Date: Friday, April 21, 2000 7:03 AM Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Sound Proofing Materials I appreciate all the responses - thanks!felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
|
|
Re: Sound Proofing Materials
Steve Kusterer
I appreciate all the responses - thanks!
My workshop is in my basement, right under the family room. I have two ducts running through my workshop - one feeding into the floor of the family room above and one feeding into the workshop area. (1) What's the most effective way to completely sound isolate the duct that just "passing through" the workshop terminating in the family room. (2) Is there any way to keep the duct feeding the workshop open yet still have sound containment? It seems to me that those are two conflicting goals. It's not a big problem if I have to seal off that duct - I already have the vent itself shut. But I'd like to know if there is any way to have the duct open yet still give sound isolation. (3) Is it possible to construct a small room (isolation chamber) for the DC that also provides the necessary air flow from the DC back into the workshop. I would like to both maximize sound isolation yet also allow the necessary air flow from that "room" back into the workshop. Again, these seem like conflicting goals. Any ideas? Isolating the workshop from the sound of the DC is of secondary importance to isolating the sound of the DC from the rest of the house. Ideas? Thanks... Steve |
|
Re: Hard To Read Messages Revisited
Richard McComas
Scott, If I read the message using my mail server its fine, if I
read it on the web site then it run off the page. I don't get it . Thanks Rich --- In felder-woodworking@..., "Scott Slater" <scott@s...> wrote: I tried to change the settings, see if this works - I will make along sentence to see if it runs on or gets broken up. I am using Outlook(not express), and I changed to HTML format. -Outlook Express, you may want to try this:click onFrom the menu choose Tools,Then choose Options, the Settings bar for your option, and your see that your word wrapshould be no greater than 76.you're still having run on sentances, try changing to the HTML option.and the last two settings: Send Pics... and Indent... are selected.to do with the Word Wrap settings. |
|
Re: Oneida owners
Due to the large number of enquiries on the Oneida 1.5HP unit I have
decided to post this to everyone - please ignore if you have one of the Felder uber-suckers. As you know the Oneida's strength and weakness is the cartridge filter mounted internally inside the cyclone. Since you cannot see the filter it is impossible to know except subjectively how dirty the filter is. Being the type of person who worries about such things I purchased a Magnehelic vacuum gauge from Granger Supply (#1W481 about $60.00) which reads out 0"-15" of water column. Maximum static pressure for the Oneida is around 8". This gauge sits on the dust bin cover and is connected via a hose to a fitting which penetrates the lid. By the way you can throw away the lid clamp as the suction is enough to ensure a tight seal. Once I had the gauge I realized that the filter would have to be maintained regularly to optimize the performance of the unit - when the static pressure drops a couple of inches you will see a dramatic falloff in suction at the woodworking machine. I keep a list of readings for different blast gate settings taken with a clean filter posted on the cyclone. When the gauge reads 1 1/2" down from optimum I exchange the filter. To facilitate filter changing I replaced the wing-nut on the filter retaining rod with a nice steel knob with threaded through hole - what a difference! Then I got tired of struggling with the threaded retaining band that attaches the conical lower section to the main body (this must be removed to change the filter). I was able to find a over-center band clamp similar to the one on the dust bin but smaller diameter which fit perfectly with the addition of a strip of foam weatherstripping. This is the most useful modification you can make to your cyclone-Oneida should furnish them this way. Changing the filter now requires no tools - just un-clamp the band, tilt the cone toward you, reach in and unscrew that nice fat knob, pull out the old filter, insert the spare, tighten the knob, turn on the collector, hold the cone up to the body ( the suction will hold it), attach the over-center clamp and your'e finished! (Except for cleaning the dirty filter - I bang the big stuff out and wash with a garden hose). I have two filters that I use in rotation - over two years and they still work great. I use X-10 wireless key fobs mounted on various machines to turn on and off the cyclone, X-10 makes a 220 volt, 20 amp module that handles the Oneida with ease. I mounted one of the switches on the cyclone so it is easy to turn on when re-attaching the cone to the upper housing. Because any extensive sanding will result in impaired performance I devised a "sanding pre-filter" which is inserted between the dust source and the cyclone. this consists of an Oneida cyclone filter inside a container with a threaded lid - sort of like a shop-vac. I was able to find a square shaped container (40015T68 - about $17.00) at McMaster Carr which fit the filter perfectly so I just had to mount plastic dust collector fittings. I use this with my Performax 16/32 and all my random orbit sanders. This prevents the sanding dust from ever reaching the cyclone filter. Cleaning this pre-filter should be done on a breezy day with you up-wind. There will be what looks like 10 lbs of flour inside the canister after extensive use. I estimate this pre-filter has saved me from about 20 cyclone filter cleanings each year. As I mentioned before, my cyclone is mounted on the Oneida tripod mobile base. While the footprint is larger, there is no vibration transmitted to the structure of the house and the tripod is great for leaning sheet goods against. Email me directly if you want to discuss this further. Art Pentz ahpnc@... |
|
Speed control
Scott Slater
Hi,
This message is directed to Wolfgang, but may be of interest to the rest of the group. Having the ability to change speeds on the shaper interests me. Would it be possible to have a speed control for the shaper only, I will be getting the CF 741 S Pro with 5.5 hp 3 phase motors, so it would have to be retrofitted. I am not interested in speed control for the saw or planer. Thanks - Scott |
|
Re: Hard To Read Messages Revisited
Scott Slater
I tried to change the settings, see if this works - I will make a long
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
sentence to see if it runs on or gets broken up. I am using Outlook (not express), and I changed to HTML format. - Scott Slater scott@... www.studiouw.com -----Original Message-----
From: Natalie Johnston [mailto:dotcalm@...] Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 9:28 PM To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Hard To Read Messages Revisited If you're one of those with the run on sentances, and you use Outlook Express, you may want to try this: From the menu choose Tools,Then choose Options, Then choose Send, Now look down where it says: Mail Sending Format No matter whether you have HTML or Plain text chosen, you should click on the Settings bar for your option, and your see that your word wrap should be no greater than 76. If you are using Plain Text and your Word Wrap is 76 or less and you're still having run on sentances, try changing to the HTML option. These are my settings: HTML Text -- Quoted Printable -- 8 bit characters in not selected and the last two settings: Send Pics... and Indent... are selected. I don't fully understand all that, but I am sure it has something to do with the Word Wrap settings. Hope this helps! Natalie To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@... To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@... Visit the group web site: |
|
Re: Hard To Read Messages Revisited
If you're one of those with the run on sentances, and you use Outlook Express, you may want to try this:
From the menu choose Tools, Then choose Options, Then choose Send, Now look down where it says: Mail Sending Format No matter whether you have HTML or Plain text chosen, you should click on the Settings bar for your option, and your see that your word wrap should be no greater than 76. If you are using Plain Text and your Word Wrap is 76 or less and you're still having run on sentances, try changing to the HTML option. These are my settings: HTML Text -- Quoted Printable -- 8 bit characters in not selected and the last two settings: Send Pics... and Indent... are selected. I don't fully understand all that, but I am sure it has something to do with the Word Wrap settings. Hope this helps! Natalie |
|
Re: Hard To Read Messages Revisited
Philip Tamarkin
...maybe some folks are just prone to run on!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Richard McComas wrote: A few threads back I posted a message on how the messages run off |
|
Re: Hard To Read Messages Revisited
Steve Kusterer
and I used the web site to post that first message. I'm sending this
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
response using Eudora. I'm also making sure this line is long enough to either wrap or be pretty darn ugly. And the first hard return goes right here. Steve At 07:53 PM 4/20/00 -0700, you wrote:
I use Outlook Express, if this provides a clue. |
|
Re: Hard To Read Messages Revisited
Charlie Norton
I use Outlook Express, if this provides a clue.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard McComas <rmccomas@...> To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...> Date: Thursday, April 20, 2000 7:48 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Hard To Read Messages Revisited A few threads back I posted a message on how the messages run offfelder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
|
|
Hard To Read Messages Revisited
Richard McComas
A few threads back I posted a message on how the messages run off
the edge of my screen and I have to use the scroll bar to read them (PITA). I have since noticed that not all message do this. The messages from Steve Kusterer, Dennis Jacob, Philip Tamarkin, and Natalie appear in there entirety on the screen making them easy to read. The messages from John Renzetti, Scott Slater ,Charlie Nortion and Art Pentz, run way off the screen. Anyone have any ideas why some do and some don't? Richard McComas |
|
Re: I'm engaged...
Jason Gant
I have the Oneida 1.5 unit also. I chose this system over a larger "central"
one, figuring I'd just add another collector or 2 as I needed , or as I added tools. I've had mine for over a year, and I'm still glad I chose to do my shop this way. When I get my setup complete, I'll have the collectors closer to their respective machine(s), with no long inefficient runs of ducting, and hopefully less blast gates. I'm getting really close(I think/hope?) to ordering my KF700Pro. I'll order it with the Euro plug delay start option(to start the dust collector automatically when the saw is cranked on...cool!!!) Anyway, I expect to go with another Oneida 1.5 unit, just for the KF700Pro. My Oneida 1.5 unit does just fine with my old Delta-Rockwell 18" wedgebed planer, so I'm really confident it will handle any tool I might get any time soon. take care and let us know what you decide, Jason Gant |
|
Re: Oneida owners
John Renzetti
Art, How about writing something up on this and put it in the articles
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
section for future reference to all. While I'm at it how about an article on how you use the vaccufence on your machine. I'm on a roll now, how about posting some pictures of your work. A guy who's getting a degree in Fine Furniture and Cabinetmaking isn't exactly making crates and pallets. Are you going to the IWF? Talk to you later, John ----- Original Message -----
From: <AHPNC@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 8:53 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Oneida owners For those Felder owners using the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone I have a fewfelder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
|
|
Sound Proofing Materials
Dear Steve,
I am a woodworker, a future Felder owner in the someday category, and I am a self-proclaimed expert on sound proofing. My research on sound proofing started 15 years ago when we set out to sound proof my husbands psychiatry offices. We have since spawned a musician child and built two houses. These may seem tame compared to the level of noise produced in a shop, but I have done that too. I have done the research, and I can certainly tell you what doesn't work. First, the ideas Paul had about lowering the ceiling and dealing with the sound and vibration through the floor are worth doing, especially if your shop floor is wood frame and plywood subfloor, but forget fiberglass insulation bats, they help, but are not the best thing. Also, don't worry about contacting companies who sell specialized materials for sound booths ect. You can get the same result with 1/8 the cost. The most ineffective stuff, and often the most recommended, is the blow-in insulation, been there, done that, it was a big waste of money. The best material out there is the type of home insulation that comes in solid panels that look like Styrofoam. Usually 2x8 sheets, some are 2' thick and some are 4". Its sometimes pink, can be white, and comes in different "R" values. I used the highest "R" value in that came 2" thick, but you could use the really expensive 4" stuff if you want to go for the max. The nice thing about this, is that for a garage (or even for a room in the house,) you can apply it on the outside of your sheet rock walls leaving cuts outs for outlets and whatnot. Its not hard to bring the outlets and switches out to be flush with walls, depending on how "finished" you want your shop to look. Even after you have the sheets butted up against one another side by side, make sure you fill any gaps with some of that spray in foam you can get at the hardware store. After that, it would be a good idea to cover it with at least some kind of sheet goods to keep the Styrofoam from getting chewed up and gouged, by all those wild kick-backs and flying off-cuts, or just to make it look better. That will also improve the soundproof quality. By the way, you can buy a pricey 3/4" sound board for the same purpose and application, but this works much better. We found out coincidentally that applying the insulation to the outside of the walls is more effective that putting it between the studs. When we built a sound room for my son, we put the stuff in between the studs and covered the walls with sheet rock. But everywhere there is a stud is a weak spot because wood transmits sound. I'm sure that seems obvious to you violin makers out there, but it wasn't to me. My garage was already built when I sound proofed it, and I used the same material on my garage, but put it on the outside of the sheet rock, including the ceiling, and covered the lower part with the cheapest plywood I could find, and painted it all white again. My garage is at least one third more sound proof than my son's sound room. Also, don't forget the door to your shop, it will be your biggest sound leak, and if that door goes into the house, its important to think about. I haven't found a way to put that stuff on the door that doesn't come out ugly looking. Of course, use good weather stripping techniques around the frame and under the door. Depending on what your trying to accomplish, you should think about any windows in your shop. If you are trying to keep the noise out of the house, you may not have to worry about the windows, depending on how they are oriented to other walls of the house. If you are getting noise complaints from the neighbors, then stuff that ugly stuff in the windows too. When the neighbors see how bad that looks, they will wonder which is the lesser of the two evils. I live far enough from my neighbors that its not a problem but I do have some sheets cut to stick into the windows when I'm have an insomniac woodworking frenzy into the wee hours. Anyway, that's my recipe, we have perfected it through trial and error. Don't forget to have good ventilation, your shop will be buttoned up so tight, you'll be gasping for air. Good Luck! Natalie |
|
Re: I'm engaged...
Philip Tamarkin
I've got the 1.5 hp Oneida up and running in my shop, with total runs to 30' (6" metal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
pipe throughout, bushing to 4" @ flex lines...) - it does a great job on the Felder saw with simultaneous collection through the overarm blade guard, but is strictly a one-machine-at-a-time-please deal. This little guy is built great, hangs from the rafters in a corner of the shop, taking up a 2'x2' (!) area, easy to clean the filter (I use it also with a small widebelt sander, so the sander dust clogs the filter more than saw dust or shavings - filter gets cleaned every time I empty the 30-gallon drum. WAY nicer than the 2- and 3-hp taiwanese collectors that I've been using earlier in this incarnation! Oneida is also great to deal with, Felder-level customer support, free engineering and layout, and pipe at real-world prices-think they offer a trial period, too, but for a one-man show, it's the perfect system! Charlie Norton wrote: Everyone is contributing good material...my 2 cents is to consider 3HP and |
|
Re: I'm engaged...
Charlie Norton
Everyone is contributing good material...my 2 cents is to consider 3HP and
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
above dust collectors. Mine is 3HP and after accounting for all the losses, I expect to be marginal in terms of air flow. Congrats on the purchase...a happy wife in the home and a Felder in the shop: life doesn't get any better! Take Care, Charlie Norton -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kusterer <spkerer@...> To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...> Date: Thursday, April 20, 2000 1:20 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] I'm engaged... as of today, I'm engaged to a new CF-731 Pro. If you haven't seenfelder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
|
|
Re: I'm engaged...
Hi Steve. I'm brand new to the group and started reading the posts.
I do not currently own a Felder (or any machine for that matter), but am looking into it. I can not help you with dust collection (since I do not have a shop and will probably be having the same questions as you), but may be able to help a little on sound. The first thing you should do is put in sound insulating bats between the floor joists. You should be able to get these at any of the larger home improvement centers (they are just like fiberglass insulation). This should cut down on quite a bit of noise. The next thing would be to try and put in some sort of drop ceiling. Sound will travel through any holes it finds, and will radiate through any thing it touches. By putting in some sort of suspended ceiling, this will cut down on the vibrations that travel through the floor joists. Use some sort of acoustical panel that has a high acoustic value (it's usually listed on the panel display at the home center). You may also want to try "sonic" as a ceiling panel or for the walls. "Sonic" is what is used in recording studios to cut down on feed back from walls and ceilings (basically specially shaped foam rubber). Using this on the walls should cut down some of the noise in the shop it's self, therefore cutting down on the noise upstairs (although this could be hard to clean, until you have a nice dust collection system). You can get this material from most large music stores (a friend of mine owns a large one in NY City. if you want to go that way). I hope this helps. I'm really not an expert on this matter, I just bought a new house, and I've just been looking into sound proofing my band room. If you keep in mind that sound is only the vibration of air, eliminating any air gaps or things that will resonate the sound from one location to another, you can cut down on sound from one location to another. Paul. --- In felder-woodworking@..., "Steve Kusterer" <spkerer@m...> wrote: as of today, I'm engaged to a new CF-731 Pro. If you haven't seenmore than 3 months until I get to consumate the wedding. Of course, mythen comparing the BF6-31 and the BF7-41, taking into account all theto another. I would like to get an adequate DC setup for my soon tobe finished shop, and I seek your more experienced opinions.the family room), and I would like to at least consider some type of |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss