Re: Totally unrelated question
Hi Mariusz,
I usually finish such a drywall edge with a j-bead and then mount?the?plywood next to?the already finished edge. No way (and no?point really) of hiding a joint between two such vastly different materials.?
As for your second question, it depends on many factors - what thickness?ply, what is the surface area of your ply, what is your ceiling framework (metal stud, wood stud, concrete slab), etc.
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
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Totally unrelated question
This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints??
Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws.
Thanks a lot!
Mariusz
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Hi David,
?
I too built my 2400SF shop with the intent of using part of it for automotive and metal work. ?I installed a two post lift with a 13,000lb capacity. ?I was a heavy equipment mechanic, starting very young, until I changed course and became a firefighter. ?I continued to do mechanic work for family, friends, and myself for the past 50 years while earning a paycheck as a firefighter.
?
The two post lift was one of the best tool investments I have made. I do enjoy changing my oil while standing up.
?
As for the floor, I too considered a variety of options including epoxy, vinyl, OSB, and even carpet tiles. ?James Hamilton, AKA Stumpy Nubs, has the carpet tiles on his shop floor. ?Carpet would not be a good choice under the lift.
?
I've dealt with the oil staining first by applying a sealer to the concrete. ?This has greatly minimized the ability for virtually anything to stain the concrete. ?Second, I keep used cardboard on the floor immediately below the vehicle in the "splash" zone. ?This has allowed me to keep the area under the lift virtually stain free. ?Nothing is perfect. ?I dropped a front hub from about 4'. ?It left a small crater in the concrete floor. ?I could fill it, but it would be even more obvious. ?No matter what floor I might have installed over the concrete, this would have left a mark. ?My point is similar to Mac. ?It is a shop floor. ?Make reasonable efforts to keep it nice.
?
You are still faced with keeping the floor stain free while the new concrete cures. ?I assume, from the photos, that your floor is quite new. ?If so, you will need to wait until the concrete cures before you can seal it. ?You would need to do this anyway if you planned to coat the floor with anything intended to adhere to the concrete.
?
I wasn't willing to wait until the concrete cured enough to apply epoxy before moving in. ?And I decided I didn't want to have to move everything a second time to apply the epoxy, and then wait until that cured in order to move everything back.
?
Finally, over the years, I have worked in several fire stations with epoxy floors. ?This stuff is tough, but like anything else, it wears. ?If not applied correctly, it will not adhere to the concrete. ?In one case, the new fire station had it applied, only to have it fail if various random places. ?The contractor had to scrape and grind it all off, and start over, only to have it fail a second time. ?Ultimately, the floor was polished concrete and sealed. ?The general consensus was the concrete had not cured enough and moisture in the concrete caused it to bubble up over time.
?
Good luck with your floor and your shop. ?I certainly enjoy mine.
?
By the way, how will you heat your shop?
?
Alex B.
?
?
?
On 03/28/2025 11:03 AM PDT David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
?
I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained.
Dave Davies
On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote:
My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen.
Designing and building for 50 years
?
Hi Dave Davies,
?
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
?
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=[email protected]> wrote:
Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
?
?
?
?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: Adding Remote Control Switches on Felder
Thank you Imran. Let me know if there's anything I can provide.
Hi Kevin, et al,
Most likely it will work but the writeup will need to be updated for Hammer. I am happy to do that if someone provides pictures and needed details.
The main difference is that the switches in your machine receive line AC voltage. The current version of the receiver I used, only states output relay capability as 10A @ 14VDC. I know most of these relays can handle AC and DC voltages, as shown in pic below.
There are many available on Amazon but I prefer to buy from an established business. I have a message out to them to confirm relay capability. I will keep all posted. ? I made a folder in the Photos tab titled Hammer K3 Winner Schematic/Wiring diagram. I will also attach a .jpg here.
<20250328_121302.jpg>
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Re: Adding Remote Control Switches on Felder
Hi Kevin, et al,
Most likely it will work but the writeup will need to be updated for Hammer. I am happy to do that if someone provides pictures and needed details.
The main difference is that the switches in your machine receive line AC voltage. The current version of the receiver I used, only states output relay capability as 10A @ 14VDC. I know most of these relays can handle AC and DC voltages, as shown in pic below.
There are many available on Amazon but I prefer to buy from an established business. I have a message out to them to confirm relay capability. I will keep all posted.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 28, 2025, at 3:42?PM, Kevin Wells via groups.io <kjwells54@...> wrote: ? I made a folder in the Photos tab titled Hammer K3 Winner Schematic/Wiring diagram. I will also attach a .jpg here.
<20250328_121302.jpg>
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File /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl uploaded
#file-notice
The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: Brian Lamb <blamb11@...>
Description:
Splinter block for Pre-X-Roll 700 series machines
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Re: 3D printer file for KF700 crosscut fence block
I guess it would have been easier for me to include the link.... duh!
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, March 29, 2025 at 09:32:27 AM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
Hi Jason,
Sorry it took so long, had to find mine and then blue print it and make the stl file. I did not test print it, and depending on how accurate your 3D print is, you might have to make adjustments for the proper thickness front to back so it matches the stops. I tried to email the stl file, too big. So I'll see if I can load it onto the files portion of the FOG.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Thursday, March 27, 2025 at 06:15:02 PM MST, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Has anyone made a file for this doohickey? 2001 vintage KF700.
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: 3D printer file for KF700 crosscut fence block
Hi Jason,
Sorry it took so long, had to find mine and then blue print it and make the stl file. I did not test print it, and depending on how accurate your 3D print is, you might have to make adjustments for the proper thickness front to back so it matches the stops. I tried to email the stl file, too big. So I'll see if I can load it onto the files portion of the FOG.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Thursday, March 27, 2025 at 06:15:02 PM MST, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Has anyone made a file for this doohickey? 2001 vintage KF700.
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
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David,
?
I have been considering epoxy to? cover my 20 year old stained concrete floor.? It's getting pretty bad.? ?I did not know vinyl tile was a less expensive option.? Is that cost comparison with labor installed?? ?
?
I have seen the plastic and rubber snap key systems but did not like the thickness nor the non-solid feel.? I haven't gotten serious yet but understand there are some "epoxy" products to avoid and, like all coating systems, preparation is key.? Clean up, color and pattern will also determine the system. I'm thinking a lighter, solid color for better ambient lighting and to be able to find #2 setscrews and 1/16" circlips.?
?
I like the 1/8" thickness, soft gray color/pattern and glue down installation.? I will be interested in which direction you go.?
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Jason -?
Tambours would solve the problem. They were early on ruled out due to budget constraints, but I should take another look. Thanks!
Hey Brett, I think tambour doors is your solution. I suspect the weight of a bifold door on the flipper hardware will be problematic. You can make the tambour look like a solid slab when closed but it is a lot of work.
Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Hey Brett, I think tambour doors is your solution. I suspect the weight of a bifold door on the flipper hardware will be problematic. You can make the tambour look like a solid slab when closed but it is a lot of work.
Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: ProLock spindle locking mech
Stan I think have one more - I am out of town until next sat. ? If you like I can confirm and get back to you
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What was the pm for the 1.25” prolock? Would like to order one. Thanks.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
-- Michael Marsico
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Re: ProLock spindle locking mech
What was the pm for the 1.25” prolock? Would like to order one. Thanks.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
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Re: Hammer C3-41 Sliding Table Question
#hammer
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Re: Hammer C3-41 Sliding Table Question
#hammer
Thanks, David. I don't think it makes a difference but I was surprised to see that much of a kick up. The machine was new to me in 2021 and I moved it into my shop with a pallet jack and uncrated it myself. So that table has not been used to move or lift the machine.
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Re: For Sale - Felder Eccentric Clamp
#forsale
The clamp has been sold, and is on its way to Brad. ?Some unfortunate mail carrier is going to be lugging a 17 pound Priority Mail package in their mail delivery bag! ??
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They will be narrow enough once folded to go into the 16"-18" depth of the cabinet as well. Disadvantage is the Soss hinges might be visible to the whole world on the edges when folded though. Check with Hafele, I bet they have some sort of solution for all of this
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Friday, March 28, 2025 at 02:52:05 PM MST, Brett Wissel via groups.io <brettwissel@...> wrote:
Actually good point, making the two doors bi-fold would limit them being out of proportion, that's a way to make them small enough to not be problematic - thanks for that suggestion.
So, you want four doors to look like two? And then they have to retract into the cabinet? Maybe Soss hidden hinges on the two halves and then use flipper dooor hardware for the two assemblies.
On Friday, March 28, 2025 at 02:27:42 PM MST, Brett Wissel via <brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote:
I'm looking for expertise on flipper doors, applicability, caveats. Considering a project and concerned that a 2-sidemount door cabinet opening will be too out-of-proportion when open, but still want it to look like a 2-door cabinet opening when closed up.
*Opening 48-54", must be clear due to contents it is storing inside *Depth of cabinet about 16"-18" *Only occasional use, perhaps monthly.
Any real world experience or limitations for an opening this wide that still looks like a 2-door cabinet?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Actually good point, making the two doors bi-fold would limit them being out of proportion, that's a way to make them small enough to not be problematic - thanks for that suggestion.
So, you want four doors to look like two? And then they have to retract into the cabinet? Maybe Soss hidden hinges on the two halves and then use flipper dooor hardware for the two assemblies.
On Friday, March 28, 2025 at 02:27:42 PM MST, Brett Wissel via <brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote:
I'm looking for expertise on flipper doors, applicability, caveats. Considering a project and concerned that a 2-sidemount door cabinet opening will be too out-of-proportion when open, but still want it to look like a 2-door cabinet opening when closed up.
*Opening 48-54", must be clear due to contents it is storing inside *Depth of cabinet about 16"-18" *Only occasional use, perhaps monthly.
Any real world experience or limitations for an opening this wide that still looks like a 2-door cabinet?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
So, you want four doors to look like two? And then they have to retract into the cabinet? Maybe Soss hidden hinges on the two halves and then use flipper dooor hardware for the two assemblies.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Friday, March 28, 2025 at 02:27:42 PM MST, Brett Wissel via groups.io <brettwissel@...> wrote:
I'm looking for expertise on flipper doors, applicability, caveats. Considering a project and concerned that a 2-sidemount door cabinet opening will be too out-of-proportion when open, but still want it to look like a 2-door cabinet opening when closed up.
*Opening 48-54", must be clear due to contents it is storing inside *Depth of cabinet about 16"-18" *Only occasional use, perhaps monthly.
Any real world experience or limitations for an opening this wide that still looks like a 2-door cabinet?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
I'm looking for expertise on flipper doors, applicability, caveats. Considering a project and concerned that a 2-sidemount door cabinet opening will be too out-of-proportion when open, but still want it to look like a 2-door cabinet opening when closed up.
*Opening 48-54", must be clear due to contents it is storing inside *Depth of cabinet about 16"-18" *Only occasional use, perhaps monthly.
Any real world experience or limitations for an opening this wide that still looks like a 2-door cabinet?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Kevin Wells
imran
Jonathan Smith
Jason Holtz