Re: Clear Vue Cyclones going out of business
I've also got a clearvue I've been happy with for a long time.? :-(
? I love my clearvue, and they were a joy to deal with… now I just wait for the inevitable :-/ On Mon, Feb 24, 2025 at 5:37?PM Michael Wolf via <missingeggacct= [email protected]> wrote: I accidentally hit an old bookmark in my browser, and discovered that the Clear Vue Cyclones company is shutting down, because the owners are retiring.? They say that have a limited inventory of parts that they're selling off.? If you have a Clear Vue cyclone, and were thinking of replacing a part, now's the time to act.
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-Michael Wolf
Tahoe City, CA
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Re: Clear Vue Cyclones going out of business
? I love my clearvue, and they were a joy to deal with… now I just wait for the inevitable :-/
On Mon, Feb 24, 2025 at 5:37?PM Michael Wolf via <missingeggacct= [email protected]> wrote: I accidentally hit an old bookmark in my browser, and discovered that the Clear Vue Cyclones company is shutting down, because the owners are retiring.? They say that have a limited inventory of parts that they're selling off.? If you have a Clear Vue cyclone, and were thinking of replacing a part, now's the time to act.
?
-Michael Wolf
Tahoe City, CA
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Clear Vue Cyclones going out of business
I accidentally hit an old bookmark in my browser, and discovered that the Clear Vue Cyclones company is shutting down, because the owners are retiring.? They say that have a limited inventory of parts that they're selling off.? If you have a Clear Vue cyclone, and were thinking of replacing a part, now's the time to act.
?
-Michael Wolf
Tahoe City, CA
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This is a stunning piece of design and construction, many thanks for sharing.
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Re: Sapele twisting after processing
This has been interesting. I like working with sapele, and I have not seen anything like this. I have only worked with quartersawn sapele, though. I guess I should stick with the quartersawn!
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Re: Options for sheet good support on K700s
I would like to see more videos on how folks breakdown 4x8 sheets on their K700. I’ve seen Steve’s and Sam Blasco’s videos but I’m sure I could learn more. ?
Bryce, have you made a YT on this particular topic?
?
cheers,
Rob P.
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Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
Imran told me the 48" wide shelves are for books, I recommended the torsion box (1" or 1.25", I prefer 1.25") shelves.
For the painted finish, I have a Fuji Q5 (bought in 2017, now the price is up 50% compared to 2017 price) and get great results. I have seen professional woodworkers get great results using low cost Graco Magnum X5 airless sprayer from home depot.
James
On Sun, Feb 23, 2025 at 9:20?AM Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: Sorry, I didn't read enough of the original post with my mdf reply. I would just use 3/4" maple plywood for the carcass.? If you wanted primed, I would be inclined to get UV2 instead.
Those 48" wide shelves and cabinet floors will need some additional support to keep from sagging.
For paint-grade cabinet doors, I used software maple for stile/rail and 1/4" thick MDF for the panel.
James
On Sun, Feb 23, 2025 at 8:49?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ?Hi Jared,
This is for the 13.5’ long floor to ceiling cabinet cases. There is?5.5’ width Murphy bed in the middle and ~4’ wide cabinets on each side.?Doors will be solid wood frame a panel.
Here is a draft of what it looks like:
On Feb 22, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? If this is for a paint grade cabinet door center panel I would just use mdf.
Imran, coincidentally, I spent Saturday in a veneering workshop, and one of the incidentals that came up in conversation (as these things do - that is the joy of such events) was the addition of 3mm MDF skins to an 18mm cheap ply core to form shelving (which we all know is succeptible to sagging over time). I was able to compare the difference of ply alone with added MDF skins (in both cases, including solid wood edging). It was astounding how much rigidity the MDF version added. Is this due to the MDF or added glue, or both? For painted or veneered shelving, this is a serious option.?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
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Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
James,
MDF panel is an option for the door panel. Much less work.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 23, 2025, at 9:10?AM, James Zhu via groups.io <james.zhu2@...> wrote: ? For paint-grade cabinet doors, I used software maple for stile/rail and 1/4" thick MDF for the panel.
James
On Sun, Feb 23, 2025 at 8:49?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ?Hi Jared,
This is for the 13.5’ long floor to ceiling cabinet cases. There is?5.5’ width Murphy bed in the middle and ~4’ wide cabinets on each side.?Doors will be solid wood frame a panel.
Here is a draft of what it looks like:
On Feb 22, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? If this is for a paint grade cabinet door center panel I would just use mdf.
Imran, coincidentally, I spent Saturday in a veneering workshop, and one of the incidentals that came up in conversation (as these things do - that is the joy of such events) was the addition of 3mm MDF skins to an 18mm cheap ply core to form shelving (which we all know is succeptible to sagging over time). I was able to compare the difference of ply alone with added MDF skins (in both cases, including solid wood edging). It was astounding how much rigidity the MDF version added. Is this due to the MDF or added glue, or both? For painted or veneered shelving, this is a serious option.?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
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Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
Hi Jared,
?
Based on the feedback here there will be 3 vertical supports, so the shelves will be around 2’ wide.
?
Here is another design based upon my sister in law desire to make the uppers not as deep but we both did not like how it turned out. It would be better with two open shelves to make the upper part less heavy.
?
?
?
On Feb 23, 2025, at 9:20?AM, Jared Sankovich via groups.io <Sankovichj@...> wrote:
Sorry, I didn't read enough of the original post with my mdf reply. I would just use 3/4" maple plywood for the carcass.? If you wanted primed, I would be inclined to get UV2 instead.
Those 48" wide shelves and cabinet floors will need some additional support to keep from sagging.
For paint-grade cabinet doors, I used software maple for stile/rail and 1/4" thick MDF for the panel.
?
James
?
On Sun, Feb 23, 2025 at 8:49?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jared,
?
This is for the 13.5’ long floor to ceiling cabinet cases. There is?5.5’ width Murphy bed in the middle and ~4’ wide cabinets on each side.?Doors will be solid wood frame a panel.
?
Here is a draft of what it looks like:
?
On Feb 22, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote:
If this is for a paint grade cabinet door center panel I would just use mdf.
Imran, coincidentally, I spent Saturday in a veneering workshop, and one of the incidentals that came up in conversation (as these things do - that is the joy of such events) was the addition of 3mm MDF skins to an 18mm cheap ply core to form shelving (which we all know is succeptible to sagging over time). I was able to compare the difference of ply alone with added MDF skins (in both cases, including solid wood edging). It was astounding how much rigidity the MDF version added. Is this due to the MDF or added glue, or both? For painted or veneered shelving, this is a serious option.?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
?
?
?
?
?
?
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Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
Hi Bryce,?
I assume you mean MDF/HDF skinned ply, even though you mentioned just MDF/HDF in the beginning but then you say, “The nice thing about the MDF or HDF skin is the surface you have for painting is awesome and it's much lighter than regular MDF”. Then you mention that edge banding for MDO as if it wouldn’t be required for MDF skinned.
I do intend to do solid wood edge treatment where visible. I am leaning towards solid wood shelves as well. Doors will be solid wood.
Jason, Regular MDF is not an option due to hardware used by MDF. Manufacturer specifies ply and does not recommend even solid wood.
David, MDO is definitely an option. I just have not heard of it used for projects like this and that could be just my ignorance. I have used it before and would like to get a new experience with MDF skinned ply. If damage to the edges, ?during transportation, is the only concern, I can handle it as the edges will be trimmed and edge banded. Longest piece, I need is 91 inch and I have few inches to spare across the width as well.
I am also interested in learning about any differences in the core between MDO and MDF skinned product. Better core will be most important as both surfaces are good for painting. I am assuming both might be available in 1” thickness and that could be the deciding factor.
Appreciate all feedback. No mention of primed product yet.
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On Feb 23, 2025, at 8:53?AM, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote: ? I had Columbia Classic Core warp like crazy a few times years ago. I'm very wary of it now. Stick with MDF unless the CC is held in a frame in my opinion.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
Sorry, I didn't read enough of the original post with my mdf reply. I would just use 3/4" maple plywood for the carcass.? If you wanted primed, I would be inclined to get UV2 instead.
Those 48" wide shelves and cabinet floors will need some additional support to keep from sagging.
For paint-grade cabinet doors, I used software maple for stile/rail and 1/4" thick MDF for the panel.
James
On Sun, Feb 23, 2025 at 8:49?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ?Hi Jared,
This is for the 13.5’ long floor to ceiling cabinet cases. There is?5.5’ width Murphy bed in the middle and ~4’ wide cabinets on each side.?Doors will be solid wood frame a panel.
Here is a draft of what it looks like:
On Feb 22, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? If this is for a paint grade cabinet door center panel I would just use mdf.
Imran, coincidentally, I spent Saturday in a veneering workshop, and one of the incidentals that came up in conversation (as these things do - that is the joy of such events) was the addition of 3mm MDF skins to an 18mm cheap ply core to form shelving (which we all know is succeptible to sagging over time). I was able to compare the difference of ply alone with added MDF skins (in both cases, including solid wood edging). It was astounding how much rigidity the MDF version added. Is this due to the MDF or added glue, or both? For painted or veneered shelving, this is a serious option.?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
|
Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
For paint-grade cabinet doors, I used software maple for stile/rail and 1/4" thick MDF for the panel.
James
On Sun, Feb 23, 2025 at 8:49?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ?Hi Jared,
This is for the 13.5’ long floor to ceiling cabinet cases. There is?5.5’ width Murphy bed in the middle and ~4’ wide cabinets on each side.?Doors will be solid wood frame a panel.
Here is a draft of what it looks like:
On Feb 22, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? If this is for a paint grade cabinet door center panel I would just use mdf.
Imran, coincidentally, I spent Saturday in a veneering workshop, and one of the incidentals that came up in conversation (as these things do - that is the joy of such events) was the addition of 3mm MDF skins to an 18mm cheap ply core to form shelving (which we all know is succeptible to sagging over time). I was able to compare the difference of ply alone with added MDF skins (in both cases, including solid wood edging). It was astounding how much rigidity the MDF version added. Is this due to the MDF or added glue, or both? For painted or veneered shelving, this is a serious option.?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
|
Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
I had Columbia Classic Core warp like crazy a few times years ago. I'm very wary of it now. Stick with MDF unless the CC is held in a frame in my opinion.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Wow Gürer! I love it. Can you share some details about your process making the zebrano bowl? Also, what is the patina product used? It's very convincing for bronze.
Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
?Hi Jared,
This is for the 13.5’ long floor to ceiling cabinet cases. There is?5.5’ width Murphy bed in the middle and ~4’ wide cabinets on each side.?Doors will be solid wood frame a panel.
Here is a draft of what it looks like:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 22, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Jared Sankovich via groups.io <Sankovichj@...> wrote: ? If this is for a paint grade cabinet door center panel I would just use mdf.
Imran, coincidentally, I spent Saturday in a veneering workshop, and one of the incidentals that came up in conversation (as these things do - that is the joy of such events) was the addition of 3mm MDF skins to an 18mm cheap ply core to form shelving (which we all know is succeptible to sagging over time). I was able to compare the difference of ply alone with added MDF skins (in both cases, including solid wood edging). It was astounding how much rigidity the MDF version added. Is this due to the MDF or added glue, or both? For painted or veneered shelving, this is a serious option.?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
|
BF5 31 power feed mounting
Hi, I am new to the group and the new owner of a 1988 BF5 31. I've had a look through the forum for information on this machine and see mixed reviews. I paid $3500 Australian dollars a few weeks ago and thought it was an OK price. It has all the accessories, including a couple of cutter heads and many cutters for the spindle moulder. It looks to have been well cared for by an elderly hobbyist. He was the second owner and had the machine for 20 years. It has never seen professional work but has had the odd repair - replacement gears for lowering and raising of the moulder.
?
I purchased the machine to make approx. 20 sash windows (with weight boxes). I think it will help me with that. Is this still considered a decent machine for the job I have at hand??
?
The main question - I have a 1HP power feed, taken from another machine. It weighs in at around 76kg. I am planning to mount this on the right-hand side of the table saw top. To the right of the spindle moulder. This area will retain the most functionality of the machine and could also allow the power feed to be used with the jointer (I have a very good Harvey table saw, in case I need to cut larger panels). However, I'm concerned that the weight of the power feed might be too much for the cast iron top? I could sell the 1HP and invest in a new 1/2HP machine. The old machine is a 4-roller model (KUFO SK 40FD) and is quite large. Does anyone have experience with fitting a power feed to one of these older machines, and what is the advice around the strength of the cast iron top? I could also mount the 1HP unit to the wheeled base, which I've just made to allow moving the beast around my workshop.?
?
Thanks for any advice,
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Robert?
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spiral cutter for older Felder
Hi, my second post. I forgot to ask, is it worthwhile fitting a spiral cutter to the planer / thicknesser on an old FB5 31. And, is there a direct replacement or is a special order required. Please excuse my ignorance, I am new to this.
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Thanks,
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Robert
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Re: Combi-Core or MDF Skin Plywood
Perhaps I got the requirements wrong, but I thought you said the material needed to be:
Size = 4x8
Prefer 1” thickness but settle for ?”
Wood core is necessary due to Murphy bed HWI would really like it to come primed
The wood core and hardware attachment requirement rules out MDF or HDF IMO. ?I still think MDO is your best bet here. ?Combi or MDF skinned Plywood is susceptible to edge damage during handling since the MDF skin is thin and easily bruised and dented along the edges - been there, done that. ?So why risk it with Combi when MDO provides a paint-ready surface??
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Feb 22, 2025, at 9:55?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
David,
Thanks for combo-core fdbk. I used MDO for my shop door with good results. Just not sure if I want to use it for a cabinet project if I have another option.
I assume you would have similar view of MDF/HDF skinned product. I am not sure if it is easier to dent MDF/HDF vs let’s say popular or birch plywood. Moisture should not be a major concern in bed room. ?Imran, I don’t like CombiCore because it has MDF layers which tend to dent when struck and are susceptible to moisture turning to oatmeal when wet. ?I use it only when doing custom veneer layups.
Have you considered Medium Density Overlay (MDO)? ?This has all wood layers like plywood but is sanded smooth and covered with special paper on both sides as part of the laminate. ?It’s smooth like MDF and doesn’t need sanding. ? I love the stuff for paint-grade projects because it takes screws and glue like plywood, but is also paint ready like MDF. ?
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Rob Pritchard
imran
Jason Holtz
David P. Best
Bryce Comer