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LOL! Thanks Alex for lighting the mood.
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On Jan 30, 2025, at 9:22?PM, Alex Bowlds via groups.io <aabj@...> wrote: ?
WOW! ?I am so surprised that no one in this group, that usually have a pretty robust sense of humor, haven't suggested the obvious other option. ?LOL
?
Good luck making her happy.... and getting your equipment operational.
?
Yours,
?
Alex B.
On 01/30/2025 5:10 PM PST imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
?
Ty,
?
It is very difficult to comment on noise as people have different hearing capabilities. Frequency of concern has a range. Since you have not received it, I assume you have not actually heard it (the beginning of your email implies that you and your wife have heard it).
?
So I suggest you find one close to you. There may be a FOG member close to you or PP may be able to share a user near you (although, I have no idea if they do such a thing). This way you can make up your mind.
?
Mine unit is too old and it makes significant noise only when the fans are on. My 10HP unit, DPC-A10 enclosure is 22”x21”x12” inch and weighs 123 lbs. Current PTE 010 is 60% in size and 40% in weight compared to my unit. This is only possible with higher chopping frequency which means significantly smaller inductors (less weight). Chopping frequency on mine is 10KHz and I imagine newer unit is operating at or above 100KHz. This results in high frequency mechanical and electrical noise.
?
This change may have occurred over time therefore each model will have its own characteristics. The only way to be sure is to hear the same model you intend to buy.
?
I built and used a RPC for years but there are multiple reasons mentioned on this forum that makes a digital converter a better choice.
?
If you decide to go for a RPC AR has had good reputation (my info is a bit dated though). I have heard they ship a replacement in 24 hrs and pay freight both ways. Not sure if they still do that.
?
I would not mess with using your 3ph motor. You are opening a can of worms in case something goes wrong. You have a sizable investment and it is not worth it. Just sell your 3ph motor and use the proceeds to offset the cost of whatever you buy.
On Jan 30, 2025, at 6:55?PM, Ty via groups.io <ty@...> wrote:
Update -?
?
We were ready to pull the trigger on a Phase perfect and encountered an objection I was not expecting.? The hissing / buzzing sound coming from the unit is very objectionable to my wife's ears.? She's got hearing good enough to hear a fly fart, so I suspect from any room (and our workshop and home are connected) she would hear the buzzing.? The specific sound range is nail-on-a-chalkboard grating to her.? ?I checked with PP about the sound dampening kit, and they could off "no guarantees" it would solve my issue.??
?
That was a long-winded way of saying we are back to the rotary phase converter option.? I'm pretty concerned about the power quality and effects of that on this Felder machine.? I'd appreciate input from the group on the safest way to proceed.? ?I have an unused 30HP idler motor available.? Here are the top three options under consideration -?
?
- North America Phase Converter CP-30 ()
- American Rotary AD30 STK ()
- American Rotary ADX30 ()
?
Naturally I'd like to make use of the existing idler motor available to me.? ?AR is telling me that the ADX is the right one, but that requires a specially manufactured idler supplied only by them.? As this is a new area for me, Im struggling to understand what is marketing hype and what is good science.? All three options support the inrush current as measured by Imran for this machine.? All three produce more HP/amps than I need (with some to spare).? Are there other factors I should be considering???
?
Thank you all,
Ty
|
WOW! ?I am so surprised that no one in this group, that usually have a pretty robust sense of humor, haven't suggested the obvious other option. ?LOL
?
Good luck making her happy.... and getting your equipment operational.
?
Yours,
?
Alex B.
On 01/30/2025 5:10 PM PST imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
?
Ty,
?
It is very difficult to comment on noise as people have different hearing capabilities. Frequency of concern has a range. Since you have not received it, I assume you have not actually heard it (the beginning of your email implies that you and your wife have heard it).
?
So I suggest you find one close to you. There may be a FOG member close to you or PP may be able to share a user near you (although, I have no idea if they do such a thing). This way you can make up your mind.
?
Mine unit is too old and it makes significant noise only when the fans are on. My 10HP unit, DPC-A10 enclosure is 22”x21”x12” inch and weighs 123 lbs. Current PTE 010 is 60% in size and 40% in weight compared to my unit. This is only possible with higher chopping frequency which means significantly smaller inductors (less weight). Chopping frequency on mine is 10KHz and I imagine newer unit is operating at or above 100KHz. This results in high frequency mechanical and electrical noise.
?
This change may have occurred over time therefore each model will have its own characteristics. The only way to be sure is to hear the same model you intend to buy.
?
I built and used a RPC for years but there are multiple reasons mentioned on this forum that makes a digital converter a better choice.
?
If you decide to go for a RPC AR has had good reputation (my info is a bit dated though). I have heard they ship a replacement in 24 hrs and pay freight both ways. Not sure if they still do that.
?
I would not mess with using your 3ph motor. You are opening a can of worms in case something goes wrong. You have a sizable investment and it is not worth it. Just sell your 3ph motor and use the proceeds to offset the cost of whatever you buy.
On Jan 30, 2025, at 6:55?PM, Ty via groups.io <ty@...> wrote:
Update -?
?
We were ready to pull the trigger on a Phase perfect and encountered an objection I was not expecting.? The hissing / buzzing sound coming from the unit is very objectionable to my wife's ears.? She's got hearing good enough to hear a fly fart, so I suspect from any room (and our workshop and home are connected) she would hear the buzzing.? The specific sound range is nail-on-a-chalkboard grating to her.? ?I checked with PP about the sound dampening kit, and they could off "no guarantees" it would solve my issue.??
?
That was a long-winded way of saying we are back to the rotary phase converter option.? I'm pretty concerned about the power quality and effects of that on this Felder machine.? I'd appreciate input from the group on the safest way to proceed.? ?I have an unused 30HP idler motor available.? Here are the top three options under consideration -?
?
- North America Phase Converter CP-30 ()
- American Rotary AD30 STK ()
- American Rotary ADX30 ()
?
Naturally I'd like to make use of the existing idler motor available to me.? ?AR is telling me that the ADX is the right one, but that requires a specially manufactured idler supplied only by them.? As this is a new area for me, Im struggling to understand what is marketing hype and what is good science.? All three options support the inrush current as measured by Imran for this machine.? All three produce more HP/amps than I need (with some to spare).? Are there other factors I should be considering???
?
Thank you all,
Ty
|
Ty,
It is very difficult to comment on noise as people have different hearing capabilities. Frequency of concern has a range. Since you have not received it, I assume you have not actually heard it (the beginning of your email implies that you and your wife have heard it).
So I suggest you find one close to you. There may be a FOG member close to you or PP may be able to share a user near you (although, I have no idea if they do such a thing). This way you can make up your mind.
Mine unit is too old and it makes significant noise only when the fans are on. My 10HP unit, DPC-A10 enclosure is 22”x21”x12” inch and weighs 123 lbs. Current PTE 010 is 60% in size and 40% in weight compared to my unit. This is only possible with higher chopping frequency which means significantly smaller inductors (less weight). Chopping frequency on mine is 10KHz and I imagine newer unit is operating at or above 100KHz. This results in high frequency mechanical and electrical noise.
This change may have occurred over time therefore each model will have its own characteristics. The only way to be sure is to hear the same model you intend to buy.
I built and used a RPC for years but there are multiple reasons mentioned on this forum that makes a digital converter a better choice.
If you decide to go for a RPC AR has had good reputation (my info is a bit dated though). I have heard they ship a replacement in 24 hrs and pay freight both ways. Not sure if they still do that.
I would not mess with using your 3ph motor. You are opening a can of worms in case something goes wrong. You have a sizable investment and it is not worth it. Just sell your 3ph motor and use the proceeds to offset the cost of whatever you buy.
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Show quoted text
On Jan 30, 2025, at 6:55?PM, Ty via groups.io <ty@...> wrote: ? Update -?
?
We were ready to pull the trigger on a Phase perfect and encountered an objection I was not expecting.? The hissing / buzzing sound coming from the unit is very objectionable to my wife's ears.? She's got hearing good enough to hear a fly fart, so I suspect from any room (and our workshop and home are connected) she would hear the buzzing.? The specific sound range is nail-on-a-chalkboard grating to her.? ?I checked with PP about the sound dampening kit, and they could off "no guarantees" it would solve my issue.??
?
That was a long-winded way of saying we are back to the rotary phase converter option.? I'm pretty concerned about the power quality and effects of that on this Felder machine.? I'd appreciate input from the group on the safest way to proceed.? ?I have an unused 30HP idler motor available.? Here are the top three options under consideration -?
?
- North America Phase Converter CP-30 ()
- American Rotary AD30 STK ()
- American Rotary ADX30 ()
?
Naturally I'd like to make use of the existing idler motor available to me.? ?AR is telling me that the ADX is the right one, but that requires a specially manufactured idler supplied only by them.? As this is a new area for me, Im struggling to understand what is marketing hype and what is good science.? All three options support the inrush current as measured by Imran for this machine.? All three produce more HP/amps than I need (with some to spare).? Are there other factors I should be considering???
?
Thank you all,
Ty
|
My PTE010 that I ordered about a year ago is basically nails on a chalkboard to me. Unbearable. But back then, I made a post here and someone helped me pick out a specific type of sound dampening panel that I used to hack together a makeshift enclosure around the PP. This has dramatically improved the sound, and I can barely hear it now from 20ft away in direct line of sight.
?
Might be worth looking into for your shop.
--
?
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
> Making youtube videos now!
??? -
|
One of the few benefits of losing hearing, I suppose.?
My PP is quiet, unless the cooling fan comes on. I have it in a utility room with the furnace and water heater, so neither of us normally hear it.?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
|
I have a PT40 I just go in a crate still waiting on the new shop in addition to my 7.5HP PP...so hopefully it will be quiet. Dave Davies On Thu, Jan 30, 2025 at 6:21?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal= [email protected]> wrote:
I have a PP from the last year and the noise isn’t that bad.
You can also install an on-off switch. When the unit is off you won’t be hearing any noise (and since you only use it for the J/P, the noise from running the machine will be loader than the PP)
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
I have a PP from the last year and the noise isn’t that bad.
You can also install an on-off switch. When the unit is off you won’t be hearing any noise (and since you only use it for the J/P, the noise from running the machine will be loader than the PP)
|
Dave,
?
I have to say that my new PTE015 is far quieter than my 3 year old PTE010 was.? I had heard they were working to make them quieter and subjectively I would say it is like half as loud as the prior one.
?
YMMV and I would ask the people at Phase Perfect, but there is a significant difference.
?
PK
|
Ty ? It might be a trade off on the noise front.? I have both an American Rotary and a Phase Perfect.? I personally don't like the nose of the AR idler motor running nor the buzz of the PP.? I do have my AR idler up in the attic which helps. Dave Davies
Update -?
?
We were ready to pull the trigger on a Phase perfect and encountered an objection I was not expecting.? The hissing / buzzing sound coming from the unit is very objectionable to my wife's ears.? She's got hearing good enough to hear a fly fart, so I suspect from any room (and our workshop and home are connected) she would hear the buzzing.? The specific sound range is nail-on-a-chalkboard grating to her.? ?I checked with PP about the sound dampening kit, and they could off "no guarantees" it would solve my issue.??
?
That was a long-winded way of saying we are back to the rotary phase converter option.? I'm pretty concerned about the power quality and effects of that on this Felder machine.? I'd appreciate input from the group on the safest way to proceed.? ?I have an unused 30HP idler motor available.? Here are the top three options under consideration -?
?
- North America Phase Converter CP-30 ()
- American Rotary AD30 STK ()
- American Rotary ADX30 ()
?
Naturally I'd like to make use of the existing idler motor available to me.? ?AR is telling me that the ADX is the right one, but that requires a specially manufactured idler supplied only by them.? As this is a new area for me, Im struggling to understand what is marketing hype and what is good science.? All three options support the inrush current as measured by Imran for this machine.? All three produce more HP/amps than I need (with some to spare).? Are there other factors I should be considering???
?
Thank you all,
Ty
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Update -?
?
We were ready to pull the trigger on a Phase perfect and encountered an objection I was not expecting.? The hissing / buzzing sound coming from the unit is very objectionable to my wife's ears.? She's got hearing good enough to hear a fly fart, so I suspect from any room (and our workshop and home are connected) she would hear the buzzing.? The specific sound range is nail-on-a-chalkboard grating to her.? ?I checked with PP about the sound dampening kit, and they could off "no guarantees" it would solve my issue.??
?
That was a long-winded way of saying we are back to the rotary phase converter option.? I'm pretty concerned about the power quality and effects of that on this Felder machine.? I'd appreciate input from the group on the safest way to proceed.? ?I have an unused 30HP idler motor available.? Here are the top three options under consideration -?
?
- North America Phase Converter CP-30 ()
- American Rotary AD30 STK ()
- American Rotary ADX30 ()
?
Naturally I'd like to make use of the existing idler motor available to me.? ?AR is telling me that the ADX is the right one, but that requires a specially manufactured idler supplied only by them.? As this is a new area for me, Im struggling to understand what is marketing hype and what is good science.? All three options support the inrush current as measured by Imran for this machine.? All three produce more HP/amps than I need (with some to spare).? Are there other factors I should be considering???
?
Thank you all,
Ty
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
PK,
I was responding to the person wanting to use the printed transition. Being plastic (like my K975) a flexible hose is best as it puts less pressure on the transition. The transition coverts rectangle to round so there is less work involved. I have no clue, whether the transition works (vertical to 45) but if it does then a flex hose is preferred.
BTW, the one I shared has the steel wire so if desired it can also be used directly as your video shows.
I did order clamps from Felder and they were superior to the crappy ones I was using from Grizzly and elsewhere. I did find a source for them once I figured out what I was after, IIRC, it was via hose king.
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On Jan 30, 2025, at 4:35?PM, PK via groups.io <pk@...> wrote: ? Imran,
?
For my K500 (which looks identical internally to Chris's picture) I called Felder for the said adaptor that is listed on the parts BOM.? They no longer sell it.
?
They told me to connect it just like Chris did.? They sell the clamps to clamp the hose on.? I used a piece of wood and some clamps to bend the metal in the hose to conform to a shape close to the shape of the outlet.? It works great actually.
?
?
PK
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Imran,
?
For my K500 (which looks identical internally to Chris's picture) I called Felder for the said adaptor that is listed on the parts BOM.? They no longer sell it.
?
They told me to connect it just like Chris did.? They sell the clamps to clamp the hose on.? I used a piece of wood and some clamps to bend the metal in the hose to conform to a shape close to the shape of the outlet.? It works great actually.
?
?
PK
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
This has been shared here. I used 5” version on K975 saw and it has been there since March of 2020. Very flexible and works well with saw aggregate movement.
| |
Unfortunately, unlike 5”, they just don’t sell the hose. So it comes with an adapter and clamps. There are two 4” versions and they show 2 different hoses. The link above looks like the 5” like I have. 5” is still available on above link.
If you want to be really sure you can call powertec to confirm if this 4” is same as 5” with part number 70220.
Best Regards,
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On Jan 30, 2025, at 3:21?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
Felder dust hose is a consumable. You will have to replace every two to three years at best. If you want longer lasting, buy something local, but most likely it won't be near as flexible.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com
On Thursday, January 30, 2025 at 12:46:51 PM MST, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
Bill,
Thanks for the reply!
My machine is a 2018 Hammer C3-31. My assumption is that all of these sliding bed table saws have the same dust exhaust, but that could be wrong.?
Assuming the dust exhaust specs are the same, do you have any thoughts on what you might charge to print one for me?
Having replaced the original dust collection hose, I know how difficult it is, and how poorly designed this system is.?
I think your design fix is an excellent solution. Let’s keep talking.
Chris
Croz1950@...
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:15?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?
Chris;
Negative?
I have the print file for the Dremel 3D45 and that’s it. Like I said, I can print another but I had planned on redesigning it so I didn’t do any more than print it and had a fellow on the FOG try it. He reached out to me today and said I should put this info out there because it worked for him.
Bill Belanger
On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:56, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
?
Bill!
I for one am interested. Do you have the specs??
Chris
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 30, 2025, at 11:05?AM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?
<image2.png>
I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment.
Bill Belanger?
On Jan 29, 2025, at 21:55, mike chin via groups.io <mike.spcr@...> wrote:
?
[Edited Message Follows]
CAUTION!!?
?
I was in the saw this morning, replacing the old now-stiff & brittle 4" internal hose between the 3D printer coupler & the exhaust port at the bottom front. When the saw is tilted, beyond about 40 degrees, the hose gets trapped between the motor and the side wall, at which point the hose resists bending, and it is quite hard to set the tilt all the way to 45 degrees. A rib on the side wall protrudes about an inch, which also adds to the impedance.?
?
See the illustrative pics.
?
<PXL_20250129_195730323.jpg>
Blade at standard tilt, from above
?
<PXL_20250129_200936437.jpg>
Blade at standard tilt, from below front.
?
<PXL_20250129_195526666.jpg>
Blade at >40 deg, from below. Hose gets jammed against side wall & rib.?
?
This problem must occur with the standard hose setup, too, because there's really no room for the hose between the side wall and the motor when the blade is at extreme tilt. Which is why the original hose kept falling off in the first place.
?
Anyway, it is unfortunate, but perhaps not a deal breaker for everyone: I apparently have not used the saw tilt beyond 40 degrees for a year. I usually use my 10" miter saw for 45 deg angled cuts.?
?
One possible solution is to use as flexible a hose as you can. The copper wire hose was the only 4" hose in stock at the nearest tool store yesterday; an all-plastic more flexible one would have been a better choice.?
?
Another solution is to modify the coupler design so that the round exhaust points directly downward from the rectangular interface and perhaps a bit toward the inside of the saw casing -- ie, towards the motor. The coupler needs to be kept as small as possible to keep it from fowling the max tilt position.?
?
Further investigation shows when the saw is tilted fully, there's at most one inch distance between the bottom of the trapezoidal metal dust collection device and the side wall in the saw. The saw was never designed properly to accommodate the dust collection hose when tilted to 45 degrees. No wonder my original duct hose kept falling off!?
?
So if you choose to use the 3D printed coupler here, DO NOT TILT THE SAW >40 degrees. You will risk breaking the coupler and damaging the hose. I think this probably holds true for standard dust collection hose mounting too unless a very flexible hose is used.?
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Thanks Bill! No hurry, my current heavy duty hose is working well for now. But a better solution is on my radar. So I am definitely interested!   Chris Rozycki?
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On Jan 30, 2025, at 3:27?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Chris I’ll be back home 13 February and I can print one then. In the meantime maybe James can chime in on how it works for him. I don’t own one of those machines nor do I have access to one. Bill Belanger On Jan 30, 2025, at 15:46, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Bill, Thanks for the reply! My machine is a 2018 Hammer C3-31. My assumption is that all of these sliding bed table saws have the same dust exhaust, but that could be wrong.? Assuming the dust exhaust specs are the same, do you have any thoughts on what you might charge to print one for me? Having replaced the original dust collection hose, I know how difficult it is, and how poorly designed this system is.? I think your design fix is an excellent solution. Let’s keep talking. Chris Croz1950@... Chris Rozycki? On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:15?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Chris; Negative? I have the print file for the Dremel 3D45 and that’s it. Like I said, I can print another but I had planned on redesigning it so I didn’t do any more than print it and had a fellow on the FOG try it. He reached out to me today and said I should put this info out there because it worked for him.
Bill Belanger On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:56, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Bill! I for one am interested. Do you have the specs?? Chris Chris Rozycki? On Jan 30, 2025, at 11:05?AM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? ? <image2.png>
I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment.
Bill Belanger?
On Jan 29, 2025, at 21:55, mike chin via groups.io <mike.spcr@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
CAUTION!!?
?
I was in the saw this morning, replacing the old now-stiff & brittle 4" internal hose between the 3D printer coupler & the exhaust port at the bottom front. When the saw is tilted, beyond about 40 degrees, the hose gets trapped between the motor and the side wall, at which point the hose resists bending, and it is quite hard to set the tilt all the way to 45 degrees. A rib on the side wall protrudes about an inch, which also adds to the impedance.?
?
See the illustrative pics.
?
<PXL_20250129_195730323.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from above
?
<PXL_20250129_200936437.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from below front.
?
<PXL_20250129_195526666.jpg> Blade at >40 deg, from below. Hose gets jammed against side wall & rib.?
?
This problem must occur with the standard hose setup, too, because there's really no room for the hose between the side wall and the motor when the blade is at extreme tilt. Which is why the original hose kept falling off in the first place.
?
Anyway, it is unfortunate, but perhaps not a deal breaker for everyone: I apparently have not used the saw tilt beyond 40 degrees for a year. I usually use my 10" miter saw for 45 deg angled cuts.?
?
One possible solution is to use as flexible a hose as you can. The copper wire hose was the only 4" hose in stock at the nearest tool store yesterday; an all-plastic more flexible one would have been a better choice.?
?
Another solution is to modify the coupler design so that the round exhaust points directly downward from the rectangular interface and perhaps a bit toward the inside of the saw casing -- ie, towards the motor. The coupler needs to be kept as small as possible to keep it from fowling the max tilt position.?
?
Further investigation shows when the saw is tilted fully, there's at most one inch distance between the bottom of the trapezoidal metal dust collection device and the side wall in the saw. The saw was never designed properly to accommodate the dust collection hose when tilted to 45 degrees. No wonder my original duct hose kept falling off!?
?
So if you choose to use the 3D printed coupler here, DO NOT TILT THE SAW >40 degrees. You will risk breaking the coupler and damaging the hose. I think this probably holds true for standard dust collection hose mounting too unless a very flexible hose is used.?
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Chris I’ll be back home 13 February and I can print one then. In the meantime maybe James can chime in on how it works for him. I don’t own one of those machines nor do I have access to one.
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On Jan 30, 2025, at 15:46, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Bill, Thanks for the reply! My machine is a 2018 Hammer C3-31. My assumption is that all of these sliding bed table saws have the same dust exhaust, but that could be wrong.? Assuming the dust exhaust specs are the same, do you have any thoughts on what you might charge to print one for me? Having replaced the original dust collection hose, I know how difficult it is, and how poorly designed this system is.? I think your design fix is an excellent solution. Let’s keep talking. Chris Croz1950@... Chris Rozycki? On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:15?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Chris; Negative? I have the print file for the Dremel 3D45 and that’s it. Like I said, I can print another but I had planned on redesigning it so I didn’t do any more than print it and had a fellow on the FOG try it. He reached out to me today and said I should put this info out there because it worked for him.
Bill Belanger On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:56, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Bill! I for one am interested. Do you have the specs?? Chris Chris Rozycki? On Jan 30, 2025, at 11:05?AM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? ? <image2.png>
I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment.
Bill Belanger?
On Jan 29, 2025, at 21:55, mike chin via groups.io <mike.spcr@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
CAUTION!!?
?
I was in the saw this morning, replacing the old now-stiff & brittle 4" internal hose between the 3D printer coupler & the exhaust port at the bottom front. When the saw is tilted, beyond about 40 degrees, the hose gets trapped between the motor and the side wall, at which point the hose resists bending, and it is quite hard to set the tilt all the way to 45 degrees. A rib on the side wall protrudes about an inch, which also adds to the impedance.?
?
See the illustrative pics.
?
<PXL_20250129_195730323.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from above
?
<PXL_20250129_200936437.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from below front.
?
<PXL_20250129_195526666.jpg> Blade at >40 deg, from below. Hose gets jammed against side wall & rib.?
?
This problem must occur with the standard hose setup, too, because there's really no room for the hose between the side wall and the motor when the blade is at extreme tilt. Which is why the original hose kept falling off in the first place.
?
Anyway, it is unfortunate, but perhaps not a deal breaker for everyone: I apparently have not used the saw tilt beyond 40 degrees for a year. I usually use my 10" miter saw for 45 deg angled cuts.?
?
One possible solution is to use as flexible a hose as you can. The copper wire hose was the only 4" hose in stock at the nearest tool store yesterday; an all-plastic more flexible one would have been a better choice.?
?
Another solution is to modify the coupler design so that the round exhaust points directly downward from the rectangular interface and perhaps a bit toward the inside of the saw casing -- ie, towards the motor. The coupler needs to be kept as small as possible to keep it from fowling the max tilt position.?
?
Further investigation shows when the saw is tilted fully, there's at most one inch distance between the bottom of the trapezoidal metal dust collection device and the side wall in the saw. The saw was never designed properly to accommodate the dust collection hose when tilted to 45 degrees. No wonder my original duct hose kept falling off!?
?
So if you choose to use the 3D printed coupler here, DO NOT TILT THE SAW >40 degrees. You will risk breaking the coupler and damaging the hose. I think this probably holds true for standard dust collection hose mounting too unless a very flexible hose is used.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Felder dust hose is a consumable. You will have to replace every two to three years at best. If you want longer lasting, buy something local, but most likely it won't be near as flexible.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Thursday, January 30, 2025 at 12:46:51 PM MST, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
Bill, Thanks for the reply! My machine is a 2018 Hammer C3-31. My assumption is that all of these sliding bed table saws have the same dust exhaust, but that could be wrong.? Assuming the dust exhaust specs are the same, do you have any thoughts on what you might charge to print one for me? Having replaced the original dust collection hose, I know how difficult it is, and how poorly designed this system is.? I think your design fix is an excellent solution. Let’s keep talking. Chris Croz1950@... Chris Rozycki? On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:15?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?
Chris; Negative? I have the print file for the Dremel 3D45 and that’s it. Like I said, I can print another but I had planned on redesigning it so I didn’t do any more than print it and had a fellow on the FOG try it. He reached out to me today and said I should put this info out there because it worked for him.
Bill Belanger On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:56, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
?
Bill! I for one am interested. Do you have the specs?? Chris Chris Rozycki? On Jan 30, 2025, at 11:05?AM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?
<image2.png>
I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment.
Bill Belanger?
On Jan 29, 2025, at 21:55, mike chin via groups.io <mike.spcr@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
CAUTION!!?
?
I was in the saw this morning, replacing the old now-stiff & brittle 4" internal hose between the 3D printer coupler & the exhaust port at the bottom front. When the saw is tilted, beyond about 40 degrees, the hose gets trapped between the motor and the side wall, at which point the hose resists bending, and it is quite hard to set the tilt all the way to 45 degrees. A rib on the side wall protrudes about an inch, which also adds to the impedance.?
?
See the illustrative pics.
?
<PXL_20250129_195730323.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from above
?
<PXL_20250129_200936437.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from below front.
?
<PXL_20250129_195526666.jpg> Blade at >40 deg, from below. Hose gets jammed against side wall & rib.?
?
This problem must occur with the standard hose setup, too, because there's really no room for the hose between the side wall and the motor when the blade is at extreme tilt. Which is why the original hose kept falling off in the first place.
?
Anyway, it is unfortunate, but perhaps not a deal breaker for everyone: I apparently have not used the saw tilt beyond 40 degrees for a year. I usually use my 10" miter saw for 45 deg angled cuts.?
?
One possible solution is to use as flexible a hose as you can. The copper wire hose was the only 4" hose in stock at the nearest tool store yesterday; an all-plastic more flexible one would have been a better choice.?
?
Another solution is to modify the coupler design so that the round exhaust points directly downward from the rectangular interface and perhaps a bit toward the inside of the saw casing -- ie, towards the motor. The coupler needs to be kept as small as possible to keep it from fowling the max tilt position.?
?
Further investigation shows when the saw is tilted fully, there's at most one inch distance between the bottom of the trapezoidal metal dust collection device and the side wall in the saw. The saw was never designed properly to accommodate the dust collection hose when tilted to 45 degrees. No wonder my original duct hose kept falling off!?
?
So if you choose to use the 3D printed coupler here, DO NOT TILT THE SAW >40 degrees. You will risk breaking the coupler and damaging the hose. I think this probably holds true for standard dust collection hose mounting too unless a very flexible hose is used.?
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Bill, Thanks for the reply! My machine is a 2018 Hammer C3-31. My assumption is that all of these sliding bed table saws have the same dust exhaust, but that could be wrong.? Assuming the dust exhaust specs are the same, do you have any thoughts on what you might charge to print one for me? Having replaced the original dust collection hose, I know how difficult it is, and how poorly designed this system is.? I think your design fix is an excellent solution. Let’s keep talking. Chris Croz1950@... Chris Rozycki?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:15?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Chris; Negative? I have the print file for the Dremel 3D45 and that’s it. Like I said, I can print another but I had planned on redesigning it so I didn’t do any more than print it and had a fellow on the FOG try it. He reached out to me today and said I should put this info out there because it worked for him.
Bill Belanger On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:56, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Bill! I for one am interested. Do you have the specs?? Chris Chris Rozycki? On Jan 30, 2025, at 11:05?AM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? ? <image2.png>
I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment.
Bill Belanger?
On Jan 29, 2025, at 21:55, mike chin via groups.io <mike.spcr@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
CAUTION!!?
?
I was in the saw this morning, replacing the old now-stiff & brittle 4" internal hose between the 3D printer coupler & the exhaust port at the bottom front. When the saw is tilted, beyond about 40 degrees, the hose gets trapped between the motor and the side wall, at which point the hose resists bending, and it is quite hard to set the tilt all the way to 45 degrees. A rib on the side wall protrudes about an inch, which also adds to the impedance.?
?
See the illustrative pics.
?
<PXL_20250129_195730323.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from above
?
<PXL_20250129_200936437.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from below front.
?
<PXL_20250129_195526666.jpg> Blade at >40 deg, from below. Hose gets jammed against side wall & rib.?
?
This problem must occur with the standard hose setup, too, because there's really no room for the hose between the side wall and the motor when the blade is at extreme tilt. Which is why the original hose kept falling off in the first place.
?
Anyway, it is unfortunate, but perhaps not a deal breaker for everyone: I apparently have not used the saw tilt beyond 40 degrees for a year. I usually use my 10" miter saw for 45 deg angled cuts.?
?
One possible solution is to use as flexible a hose as you can. The copper wire hose was the only 4" hose in stock at the nearest tool store yesterday; an all-plastic more flexible one would have been a better choice.?
?
Another solution is to modify the coupler design so that the round exhaust points directly downward from the rectangular interface and perhaps a bit toward the inside of the saw casing -- ie, towards the motor. The coupler needs to be kept as small as possible to keep it from fowling the max tilt position.?
?
Further investigation shows when the saw is tilted fully, there's at most one inch distance between the bottom of the trapezoidal metal dust collection device and the side wall in the saw. The saw was never designed properly to accommodate the dust collection hose when tilted to 45 degrees. No wonder my original duct hose kept falling off!?
?
So if you choose to use the 3D printed coupler here, DO NOT TILT THE SAW >40 degrees. You will risk breaking the coupler and damaging the hose. I think this probably holds true for standard dust collection hose mounting too unless a very flexible hose is used.?
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Rod, Thanks for that information, and maybe I will consider that option in the future. What really surprised me was how quickly the original Felder/hammer hose completely broke down. It was riddled with holes after only 5 years of very light use.? The saw and planer are connected to a very efficient and powerful cyclone dust collector. It seems that with heavy use I would need to replace the Hammer hose frequently. Chris Rozycki?
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On Jan 30, 2025, at 1:03?PM, rodsheridan via groups.io <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
? Hi Christopher, as a tech I find it a better solution than adding another part to a machine.
?
The hose from Felder comes pre-formed, which I've used many times.
?
I guess it's all just a point of view, I'm glad you solved your issue.
?
regards, Rod.
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Rod,? Just sent you an email. My email is croz1950@....
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On Jan 30, 2025, at 1:12?PM, rodsheridan via groups.io <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
? Hi Christopher, send me an email and I'll respond.
?
Regards, Rod.
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Hi Christopher, send me an email and I'll respond.
?
Regards, Rod.
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imran
Larry Long Neck
PK
Bill Belanger
rodsheridan