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A3-31 roller issue
In the process of calibrating a used A3-31 and stumbled upon an issue with the planer feed roller. The right side is too high and for some reason doesn't rest on the support bolt (see the gap in the photo). The spring feels fine so wondering if it's not seated properly. Presumably the only way to access the top of the adjustment screw/spring is to take the the entire cutterhead/feed roller unit out?
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Right side that has the issue
Left side is fine Extent of the alignment issue :( Chris |
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Levelling Feet/Bolts or blocking locations Locations - CF 741 S
Hi There,
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I have being looking thorough the manual (User Manual and Schematics) for where the levelling bolts are located on the machine. I am having a challenge to set the beds coplanar and also level, and after some adjustments they appear to be falling out of position again after some time.
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I have noticed this when I had to make some adjustments on the slider to fix a toe out issue (another recent topic) and found that maybe one of the levelling bolts is missing. Might this be a position of an optional mobility device??.
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I am not sure if I just need to block it up or use the bolts, or both, but it does concern me a little that there is only one bolt on the floor on the planer side, under the on-off switch. I have a feeling that its best to position block under the 6 corners (4 under the Saw spindle frame and 2 under the planer outside frame. A technician once told me never move the machine unless? the Planer table was raised so all the heavy load rests on the main Spindle/Saw table frame, which makes sense that no blots are located under the planer side except of one to keep it from going into twist against the main frame.?
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Any ideas from others who may have found this would be helpful.
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Many Thanks
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Colum
CF741, AD 741, K700S, FB 710/510, RL 160 and 2x AF22.
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Re: Kundig Uniq
Steve,
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Thanks for being a pioneer here!? I got mine after a bit of a wait.? For something that was made one off from Kundig this was downright cheap.
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Not sure if you have longer arms than I do Steve, but getting it bolted on was quite the challenge in contortion.? Sadly, It needs about a 4" riser block to work with a comatic DC30 and the regular stand.
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Maybe some maple and some long M10 bolts.? So close, but I will get it working!
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Something for next weekend.
PK |
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Mathelo, I will get in touch with Matt tomorrow about the 3D file. You might have to tell me what format works for you. Also, the response may be a bit delayed, as he does not work daily.?
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Ironically, I realized this morning after making a few cuts on the Hammer B3 (not K3, I mis-wrote!) that there was a bit of new dust under the saw. Investigating, it turns out the front portion of the 3D printed part was dangling down. The pressure on that portion with only the tuck tape support was inadequate, and the plastic broke. I pulled it all off and drilled the 3 holes in the collection chute & finally screwed the part in. It's not a perfect fit; there's a slight gap, 0.5~1mm in places. Some tuck tape will be used to seal it better.?
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Hopefully, the screws will ensure a long trouble free life.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Imran Malik -- Your adapter looks like it works well. It is similar to one I have been using for about a year.?
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This is on a Hammer K3 that's at least 10yo. I always felt the single biggest dust extraction bottleneck was the connection to the hole at the collection chute in which the saw blade spins: A rigid tapered rectangular shape connecting to a round hose. HUH? Just dumb.?
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The dust extraction was never great but got worse as the rubber/plastic of the hose aged. Tilting the blade was sure to cause the hose to fall off, resulting in a stream of swearing & digging into the machine to reattach the thing. Always good for some scratches & blood on the hands or arms.
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So... recently the local public library established a FabLab that's more or less free for residents/members. When the hose above fell off yet again, I thought hard about how to improve it if I could make a connector of any shape or size. Something that would improve the aerodymaic flow, be secure, and stay on regardless of blade tilt.
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A few drawing later, I dashed off to the FabLab and conferred with one of the fellas who works there.
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This is the end result:
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A single piece that combines a tube with rectangular portion that has a slot opening and flange. The latter connects to the collection chute and re-directs the dust 90 degrees down the tube, via a round exit that connects easily to the flexible exhaust hose.
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Here are actual pics:
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IIRC, screws were intended to secure it all, but I only used a bit of tuck tape for a trial. The? fit was tight enough. It's been a year & the thing has never fallen off just keeps on working without complaint even with multiple instances of tilting the saw blade for miter cuts.
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I was a bit concerned that the right angle turn would impede airflow, so some smoothing was done internally at that corner. That might be why dust extraction is much improved, or maybe it wasn't necessary. Whatever. It works very well.?
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If anyone is interested, I'll get you in touch with Matt, the guy at my local FabLab, about getting the 3D print file. If your version is different, it seems easy enough to modify the file as necessary as long as Felder/Hammer hasn't veered to a different design altogether.
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Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýBrian Lam, I¡¯m not on any fence when it comes to airtight clamps. ?Love these things! ??? Wade On Jan 24, 2025, at 3:40 PM, B Lam via groups.io <Brianlam8@...> wrote:
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Re: VFD question
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
John,
On my VFD the panel buttons are locked when remote operation is selected. I remember that in order to switch between remote and panel operation, I have to reprogram. I would expect the OEM to have done this on your lathe for accidental startup. I think you
will need to study the manual to allow panel operation. It is not too difficult to check if the knobs on your machine are working. Typically, there is a connector where low voltage signals (I believe mine are 32VDC) are present for this purpose. You may be
able to trace the cabling from the knob to the terminal on the VFD. Polarity wise there are multiple possibilities, but you should see hi voltage (~32VDC) to low?voltage toggle (or vice versa) on the terminal as the machine knob is turned on/off.
Brian has a good suggestion but don't use compressed air for blowing off dust, unless you are at a considerable distance. You do not want the circuit board to be hit with high speed air and their might be oil or particulates in it which could damage and/or
contaminate the components.
I like to use shop vac, again keep distance whether you are vacuuming?or blowing.
Imran
From:[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...>
Sent:?Friday, January 24, 2025 3:45 PM To:[email protected] <[email protected]> Subject:?Re: [FOG] VFD question ?
Brian, the buttons on the VFD panel do not seem to start or stop the operation of the motor.?
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John Hinman
Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941 |
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Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
Wade, I hope this is not off topic but I am answering your call for comments on use since you still feel on the fence about the decision. Yesterday I started in on a dozen japanese style timber framing saw horses for a class (6 pair).
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That's about 72 pieces of 3.5"x3.5" material. For a length trimming operation I made 144 cuts. Fastening and releasing the pieces was about 2 seconds each cut, in total. I estimate I saved 10-20 minutes in manual clamping with a manual clamp during this operation alone, which is more than the time it took to actually cut. I could never be as fast or efficient or focus on the cutting operations alone if I didn't have these clamps, and will never go without these style of clamps on a slider ever again. I only wish every machine in my shop had clamps like this. Especially the mortiser.?
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FWIW if anyone is interested in learning Japanese carpentry, I've just written a list of classes up that are oriented to english speakers. Both Japan and domestic USA. I have studied or built with most of these people. If anyone is taking the Somakosha classes in Okayama this year, please let me know as I'll be going to most of them.
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Brian Lam
KF700sp etc etc
Honolulu, HI
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Re: VFD question
You can start and stop it using the front panel of the VFD. See if that works properly and it might tell you that your remote switch or the wiring is the culprit. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Friday, January 24, 2025 at 04:19:23 PM MST, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
The VFD is original to the lathe, and is in a cabinet under the bed of the lathe.
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I have never cleaned it. I¡¯ll blow the cabinet with compressed air. It is pretty well protected from the fountain of chips created while turning, but it does get dust through ventilation ports.
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The user manual for the VFD refers to error codes, but it is not clear to me how to display error codes. Maybe that is supposed to be obvious ¡.
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When it did not start this afternoon I looked in the cabinet. No error codes were displayed, but the display said STOP when the switch was actually on. When I turned it off and on again, the display said RUN and the machine started spinning. That makes me wonder if the issue is in the mechanical switch, located on the headstock.
This is what the VFD looks like. The switch is on, so it should not say STOP. --
John Hinman
Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941 |
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Re: VFD question
The VFD is original to the lathe, and is in a cabinet under the bed of the lathe.
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I have never cleaned it. I¡¯ll blow the cabinet with compressed air. It is pretty well protected from the fountain of chips created while turning, but it does get dust through ventilation ports.
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The user manual for the VFD refers to error codes, but it is not clear to me how to display error codes. Maybe that is supposed to be obvious ¡.
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When it did not start this afternoon I looked in the cabinet. No error codes were displayed, but the display said STOP when the switch was actually on. When I turned it off and on again, the display said RUN and the machine started spinning. That makes me wonder if the issue is in the mechanical switch, located on the headstock.
This is what the VFD looks like. The switch is on, so it should not say STOP. --
John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941 |
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Re: VFD question
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAaron is right, Ecaps do deteriorate over time. Another thing I should mention is dust. I am not sure about the proximity of the VFD to the lathe. Either way, VFD should be cleaned of dust regularly and frequency depends upon the conditions.I am hoping that John will report back with errors being set by the VFD. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Jan 24, 2025, at 5:31?PM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
? It the VFD part of the original stock lathe??? Or was it an add-on modification??? If the VFD is 20-30 years old, it is entirely possible that the electrolytic capacitors in the VFD power supply have dried up and are no longer able to provide enough current/torque to get the lathe motor moving.
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-Aaron Inami
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Colum
PK
imran