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Re: A3-31 roller issue
Thanks guys, I bit the bullet and took the assembly unit out only to find the threaded rod plastic block (item 7) was blocked with loads of sawdust. When I started the job I noticed this plastic cover had become dislodged which I highly suspect caused the issue by allowing dust to enter.
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The planer head removal notes under Files were a lifesaver /g/felderownersgroup/files/How%20tos,%20modifications,%20and%20other%20notes/Hammer%20C3-31%20planer%20head%20removal%20notes.pdf.
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For anyone needing to tackle this in the future I was able to take out the assembly unit in about 2hrs with limited machine maintenance experience and no special tools. No need to remove the tables or pull the pulley off the cutterhead. Rather than realigning the tables after reinstalling I realised I could align the cutterhead to the previously calibrated tables by tightening two bolts on each of the bearing blocks, checking knife clearance with the outfeed table and then tapping each block a fraction until the clearance was perfect on both sides. |
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Re: Blade to Fence Capacity on BF6-41 w/retrofit fence
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Louis, Please sign your post so we know who we are addressing. I assume you are Louis from your email. I am responding out of courtesy since no one has responded. I think this is likely because you have modified your machine and you probably know it best. Some have reduced the length of the fence rod on their Felder for various reasons with no issues that I am aware of. Since you have modified the machine, it may be best to share some pictures of the relevant areas of your machine so the experts may be able to share thoughts on the possible unintentional consequences, if any. Hope this helps, Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Jan 28, 2025, at 9:51?AM, Mathelo via groups.io <louis@...> wrote:
? Any opinions on this?
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A3-31 roller issue
In the process of calibrating a used A3-31 and stumbled upon an issue with the planer feed roller. The right side is too high and for some reason doesn't rest on the support bolt (see the gap in the photo). The spring feels fine so wondering if it's not seated properly. Presumably the only way to access the top of the adjustment screw/spring is to take the the entire cutterhead/feed roller unit out?
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Right side that has the issue
Left side is fine Extent of the alignment issue :( Chris |
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Levelling Feet/Bolts or blocking locations Locations - CF 741 S
Hi There,
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I have being looking thorough the manual (User Manual and Schematics) for where the levelling bolts are located on the machine. I am having a challenge to set the beds coplanar and also level, and after some adjustments they appear to be falling out of position again after some time.
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I have noticed this when I had to make some adjustments on the slider to fix a toe out issue (another recent topic) and found that maybe one of the levelling bolts is missing. Might this be a position of an optional mobility device??.
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I am not sure if I just need to block it up or use the bolts, or both, but it does concern me a little that there is only one bolt on the floor on the planer side, under the on-off switch. I have a feeling that its best to position block under the 6 corners (4 under the Saw spindle frame and 2 under the planer outside frame. A technician once told me never move the machine unless? the Planer table was raised so all the heavy load rests on the main Spindle/Saw table frame, which makes sense that no blots are located under the planer side except of one to keep it from going into twist against the main frame.?
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Any ideas from others who may have found this would be helpful.
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Many Thanks
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Colum
CF741, AD 741, K700S, FB 710/510, RL 160 and 2x AF22.
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Re: Kundig Uniq
Steve,
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Thanks for being a pioneer here!? I got mine after a bit of a wait.? For something that was made one off from Kundig this was downright cheap.
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Not sure if you have longer arms than I do Steve, but getting it bolted on was quite the challenge in contortion.? Sadly, It needs about a 4" riser block to work with a comatic DC30 and the regular stand.
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Maybe some maple and some long M10 bolts.? So close, but I will get it working!
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Something for next weekend.
PK |
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Mathelo, I will get in touch with Matt tomorrow about the 3D file. You might have to tell me what format works for you. Also, the response may be a bit delayed, as he does not work daily.?
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Ironically, I realized this morning after making a few cuts on the Hammer B3 (not K3, I mis-wrote!) that there was a bit of new dust under the saw. Investigating, it turns out the front portion of the 3D printed part was dangling down. The pressure on that portion with only the tuck tape support was inadequate, and the plastic broke. I pulled it all off and drilled the 3 holes in the collection chute & finally screwed the part in. It's not a perfect fit; there's a slight gap, 0.5~1mm in places. Some tuck tape will be used to seal it better.?
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Hopefully, the screws will ensure a long trouble free life.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Imran Malik -- Your adapter looks like it works well. It is similar to one I have been using for about a year.?
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This is on a Hammer K3 that's at least 10yo. I always felt the single biggest dust extraction bottleneck was the connection to the hole at the collection chute in which the saw blade spins: A rigid tapered rectangular shape connecting to a round hose. HUH? Just dumb.?
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The dust extraction was never great but got worse as the rubber/plastic of the hose aged. Tilting the blade was sure to cause the hose to fall off, resulting in a stream of swearing & digging into the machine to reattach the thing. Always good for some scratches & blood on the hands or arms.
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So... recently the local public library established a FabLab that's more or less free for residents/members. When the hose above fell off yet again, I thought hard about how to improve it if I could make a connector of any shape or size. Something that would improve the aerodymaic flow, be secure, and stay on regardless of blade tilt.
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A few drawing later, I dashed off to the FabLab and conferred with one of the fellas who works there.
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This is the end result:
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A single piece that combines a tube with rectangular portion that has a slot opening and flange. The latter connects to the collection chute and re-directs the dust 90 degrees down the tube, via a round exit that connects easily to the flexible exhaust hose.
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Here are actual pics:
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IIRC, screws were intended to secure it all, but I only used a bit of tuck tape for a trial. The? fit was tight enough. It's been a year & the thing has never fallen off just keeps on working without complaint even with multiple instances of tilting the saw blade for miter cuts.
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I was a bit concerned that the right angle turn would impede airflow, so some smoothing was done internally at that corner. That might be why dust extraction is much improved, or maybe it wasn't necessary. Whatever. It works very well.?
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If anyone is interested, I'll get you in touch with Matt, the guy at my local FabLab, about getting the 3D print file. If your version is different, it seems easy enough to modify the file as necessary as long as Felder/Hammer hasn't veered to a different design altogether.
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rodsheridan
imran
Colum
PK