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My next commission is to build a walnut dining table with an elliptical top 42x80" and a tapered scalloped base.?
This is a fun challenge. Surely involves custom shaper knives and an elaborate jig to hold the staves at an angle while running the cove cuts. Looking for advice on whether the base should also be an ellipse, or if round with some additional support in the long dimension at the top, ie. a rail or pair of rails that bisect the top of the base. I'm assuming I ballast the thing with a few hundred pounds of sand tubes inside.?
I found a formula for pedestals that is diameter/2 + 2" which would be 23" on this...or 23" x 42" if an oval.
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What say you?
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Thanks
Jason
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Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
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160 mm dust collection ducting in the USA
Hi all,
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I'm researching dust collection options for my shop, and several of my top choices for collector have a 160 mm inlet.? In the beginning, I assumed that I'd just drop that down to 6" ducting with an adapter.? But, my shop is at 6360' altitude, which effectively increases the static pressure in the ducting by a factor of ~1.27.? As it happens, 160mm ducting has about 78% of the static pressure per foot of 6" ducting, so 160mm duct work will give me almost the same static pressure as 6" ducts at sea level.? So, I'm thinking of buying 160mm ducting, but that seems to be a bit hard to come by in the USA.? I haven't yet started making phone calls, but all the normal duct suppliers people mention list only imperial measurement ducts on their websites, and no metric.? Has anyone here sourced metric ducting in the USA?? My preference is ducting with quick connect clamps.? If I can't find a good source of 160mm ducting, I may size up to 7".? My local Felder rep has confirmed that they do not sell 160mm ducting, just 160mm flex hose.? A search for "160mm" in the forum doesn't seem turn up any mention of 160mm ducting in the USA.
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-Michael Wolf
Tahoe City, CA
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Thank you all for your feedback.?
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Imran, you use the pressure rollers in conjunction with your power feeder? I am only now ordering my power feeder and was under the impression that it would provide sufficient pressure against the fence, if set up properly? Purchasing pressure rollers and the necessary p-channel adapters, mounting bars, etc would be a whole new consideration for me. Not to mention that I live in a country (island) where nothing is available locally and since Felder does not sell these Aigner items, I would need to first find a suitable place to purchase from. Where I live you cannot even buy the Felder recommended EP2 grease locally, everything has to be imported (so a tube of grease ends up costing 40-50Euro).
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Cornelius
Cyprus
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
John, it is the brake board ( I often mix brake with break when I type- I should read and check 10 times before I post - fixed it up there ).
14 seconds is a long time, so the brake board may need to be replaced, but it would not hurt to try making some adjustments first to save you some time. I know it is a brand new machine and if Felder is close to you and they will address this quickly you may leave it to them. Otherwise if your electric compartment is unsealed and you have permission from Felder to get inside it is a fairly easy task to perform. There are two potentiometers on the brake board, one that controls the speed/strength of the brake, the other controls brake detection. The first is simple, you turn it to either increase or decrease the strength and it doesn¡¯t require anything other than a small screwdriver. To make changes to brake detection you would need to bridge a couple of pins on the board, so you would need a bridge ( from a computer store or if you have an old computer hard drive / they are on the back where the ribbon is attached). I¡¯m sure Felder can help you with this, if not I could guide you as well.
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Good luck!
Mariusz
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
I am glad I reached out to this community before I fooled around with my PP.
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The tech has submitted a ticket to replace my ¡°break board¡± (brake board?). Apparently he thinks that is the issue.
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Mariusz suggested I listen to the buzz after stopping the blade. I did so, and the buzz persisted for 14 seconds. Perhaps that lends credence to the brake board being an issue.
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Again, thanks to everyone for the help!
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
Yes the sander has cut down on my sanding time for detailed surfaces like crown. it all depends on the pad you use though as the 1/2¡± sponges wear rather quickly and cut through the surface on sharp edges. I think the surfprep sponges take the edge over Ekasand sponge pads in durability.?
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On Dec 16, 2024, at 7:55?PM, Jim Gaynor via groups.io <jgaynor57@...> wrote:
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Good feedback Dan. I'm a big fan of the M12 family, but I do not have the detail sander (yet).
I have relied on hand sanding for crown molding and similar profiles. Does the Ekasand with the sanding sponge manage detail sanding of those profiles? I'd like to reduce the fatigue and time to readying for finishing.
Thanks
Jim Gaynor On Monday, December 16, 2024 at 10:32:06 AM EST, Dan Gavrilyuk via groups.io <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
I have owned both the mirka 6¡± deros and 3x5 deos rectangle sander. Ended up selling both of them in favor of the Ekasand 3x4 and 6¡±. My main shop sander is now a 6¡± festool, the 6¡± Ekasand is used as a loaner, backup and for buffing oil finishes. ?My main reason for selling the deos 3x5 and getting an Ekasand 3x4 is simply because it was more compact and fit into tighter spaces. I have partnered with Ekasand as well so if anyone is interested in a 20% discount code, feel free to send me a PM.? By the way, uneeda Ekasand, surfprep, and airvantage are all the same tools with different colors.? Side note, whether anyone is in the Milwaukee m12 platform or not, the detail sander is a phenomenal little tool and has earned its spot in my install kit. It can be had with a free battery for under $150. Highly recommended that guy, it¡¯s a true orbital unlike until tool style detail sanding pads.? On Dec 14, 2024, at 7:32?PM, Derek Cohen via groups.io <derekcohen@...> wrote:
? I have an older model, the Ceos, with a 150mm pad. The difference between the Ceos and the Deos is that the Deos comes with the transformer built into the sander, while the Ceos requires an external, separate transformer. As a result the Ceos is a little lighter in the hand, but the Deos is more convenient to set up.?
I love using this little sander, which was purchased over a Festool. It is especially kind to us physically when planing vertical sections - obviously originally made for the motor refinishing industry. The paddle will feel unusual at the start, and then is forgotten once you become familiar with the sander. Mine is the lowest sander in vibration I use used, and the dust control is the absolute best (used with Mirka mesh and a Festool vacuum).?
Regards from Perth Derek
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Edited Message
John, ?Yes. ?Have a look here:
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And here. ?This shows the Felder part number.
More information about Aigner pressure wheels and support brackets is here:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Dec 17, 2024, at 3:14?PM, John Deming via groups.io <jldjr26@...> wrote:
Do you need a special mounting bracket to mount the aigner pressure module to the x-roll??
Be advised - the Aigner overhead mounting bar system for the pressure modules comes in three difference configurations. ?One is specific to the integral fence, the other two are specific to the BowmouldMaster. ?Be careful when ordering to get the version specific to the Aigner shaper fence/hood that you need. ? Details here: ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Dec 17, 2024, at 1:51?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
The picture of the Aigner mounting bracket did not make it, let¡¯s try again
<image0.jpeg>
On Dec 17, 2024, at 4:43?PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? 2nd Brett on Pressure Modules. I use them often and am using them right now for Stiles and rails. I just switched the 2-wheeler out and put the single wheel in because for narrow stock 2 wheels were interfering with PF wheels. Wheels and associated arms can be removed but since I had the 1 wheel module it was easier.
These also work vertically, if you purchase the mount (black uprights with horizontal bar in between in the pic below) for your fence. I adapted the one for Aigner fence. They also make a slightly different one for Bowmould master.
As Brett mentioned it is handy on the bandsaw and if the machine does not have the attachment bar, as was the case for me, it is not to difficult to add one (see below).
On Dec 17, 2024, at 3:58?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Agree with Joe Calhoon. I have resisted spending money on Aigner items only to find how handy they were later. My filler bar (catalog page 50-51)and the "spreader"? (catalog page 52-53) get used a lot more when you have them TO use! They live sitting on my main shaper hood left side ready to grab-and-go in-and-out all the time. Definitely money well spent.
You could make your own jigs, but that costs time, money, and departure from an engineered system you are already buying into with Aigner products?that have more versatility and are easier to use.
I'm also recommending pressure modules at least the single roller implement to start with, better if you can spring for at least 2 full setups and cover infeed/outfeed. Also find them very handy on the bandsaw. On Tue, Dec 17, 2024 at 6:00?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: You need something there whenever running thin material. The Aigner fill strip has a couple small hex screws you can adjust against the cast table to keep it from sliding or moving when pressure is applied downward. There are also hex screws to adjust it flush to the outfeed fence face. This is very important for accurate work.
That said I have been setting up and training here in the BVI on a T26 that has been setting for 5 years in this very humid climate. It was missing the fill strip and I made one out of a piece of wood with sandpaper glued to it. A bit if fiddling to get it set but works. I would say if you sprung big bucks for the fence may as well get the filler.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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John, ?Yes. ?Have a look here (click image for description): ?
More information about Aigner pressure wheels and support brackets is here:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 17, 2024, at 3:14?PM, John Deming via groups.io <jldjr26@...> wrote:
Do you need a special mounting bracket to mount the aigner pressure module to the x-roll??
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Do you need a special mounting bracket to mount the aigner pressure module to the x-roll??
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The picture of the Aigner mounting bracket did not make it, let¡¯s try again
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 17, 2024, at 4:43?PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? 2nd Brett on Pressure Modules. I use them often and am using them right now for Stiles and rails. I just switched the 2-wheeler out and put the single wheel in because for narrow stock 2 wheels were interfering with PF wheels. Wheels and associated arms can be removed but since I had the 1 wheel module it was easier.
These also work vertically, if you purchase the mount (black uprights with horizontal bar in between in the pic below) for your fence. I adapted the one for Aigner fence. They also make a slightly different one for Bowmould master.
As Brett mentioned it is handy on the bandsaw and if the machine does not have the attachment bar, as was the case for me, it is not to difficult to add one (see below).
On Dec 17, 2024, at 3:58?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Agree with Joe Calhoon. I have resisted spending money on Aigner items only to find how handy they were later. My filler bar (catalog page 50-51)and the "spreader"? (catalog page 52-53) get used a lot more when you have them TO use! They live sitting on my main shaper hood left side ready to grab-and-go in-and-out all the time. Definitely money well spent.
You could make your own jigs, but that costs time, money, and departure from an engineered system you are already buying into with Aigner products?that have more versatility and are easier to use.
I'm also recommending pressure modules at least the single roller implement to start with, better if you can spring for at least 2 full setups and cover infeed/outfeed. Also find them very handy on the bandsaw. On Tue, Dec 17, 2024 at 6:00?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: You need something there whenever running thin material. The Aigner fill strip has a couple small hex screws you can adjust against the cast table to keep it from sliding or moving when pressure is applied downward. There are also hex screws to adjust it flush to the outfeed fence face. This is very important for accurate work.
That said I have been setting up and training here in the BVI on a T26 that has been setting for 5 years in this very humid climate. It was missing the fill strip and I made one out of a piece of wood with sandpaper glued to it. A bit if fiddling to get it set but works. I would say if you sprung big bucks for the fence may as well get the filler.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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2nd Brett on Pressure Modules. I use them often and am using them right now for Stiles and rails. I just switched the 2-wheeler out and put the single wheel in because for narrow stock 2 wheels were interfering with PF wheels. Wheels and associated arms can be removed but since I had the 1 wheel module it was easier.
These also work vertically, if you purchase the mount (black uprights with horizontal bar in between in the pic below) for your fence. I adapted the one for Aigner fence. They also make a slightly different one for Bowmould master.
As Brett mentioned it is handy on the bandsaw and if the machine does not have the attachment bar, as was the case for me, it is not to difficult to add one (see below).
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 17, 2024, at 3:58?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Agree with Joe Calhoon. I have resisted spending money on Aigner items only to find how handy they were later. My filler bar (catalog page 50-51)and the "spreader"? (catalog page 52-53) get used a lot more when you have them TO use! They live sitting on my main shaper hood left side ready to grab-and-go in-and-out all the time. Definitely money well spent.
You could make your own jigs, but that costs time, money, and departure from an engineered system you are already buying into with Aigner products?that have more versatility and are easier to use.
I'm also recommending pressure modules at least the single roller implement to start with, better if you can spring for at least 2 full setups and cover infeed/outfeed. Also find them very handy on the bandsaw. On Tue, Dec 17, 2024 at 6:00?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: You need something there whenever running thin material. The Aigner fill strip has a couple small hex screws you can adjust against the cast table to keep it from sliding or moving when pressure is applied downward. There are also hex screws to adjust it flush to the outfeed fence face. This is very important for accurate work.
That said I have been setting up and training here in the BVI on a T26 that has been setting for 5 years in this very humid climate. It was missing the fill strip and I made one out of a piece of wood with sandpaper glued to it. A bit if fiddling to get it set but works. I would say if you sprung big bucks for the fence may as well get the filler.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Agree with Joe Calhoon. I have resisted spending money on Aigner items only to find how handy they were later. My filler bar (catalog page 50-51)and the "spreader"? (catalog page 52-53) get used a lot more when you have them TO use! They live sitting on my main shaper hood left side ready to grab-and-go in-and-out all the time. Definitely money well spent.
You could make your own jigs, but that costs time, money, and departure from an engineered system you are already buying into with Aigner products?that have more versatility and are easier to use.
I'm also recommending pressure modules at least the single roller implement to start with, better if you can spring for at least 2 full setups and cover infeed/outfeed. Also find them very handy on the bandsaw.
On Tue, Dec 17, 2024 at 6:00?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: You need something there whenever running thin material. The Aigner fill strip has a couple small hex screws you can adjust against the cast table to keep it from sliding or moving when pressure is applied downward. There are also hex screws to adjust it flush to the outfeed fence face. This is very important for accurate work.
That said I have been setting up and training here in the BVI on a T26 that has been setting for 5 years in this very humid climate. It was missing the fill strip and I made one out of a piece of wood with sandpaper glued to it. A bit if fiddling to get it set but works. I would say if you sprung big bucks for the fence may as well get the filler.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
It just calibrates the manufactured leg amplitude to match the other two phases.?
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Ron
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
John, I would still check that to make sure the manufactured leg is connected to L2.
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
Thanks, Ron.
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
I just went through this with Phase Perfect. ?The adjustment is only to balance the manufactured leg. ?I didn¡¯t understand this until their tech explained it to me. ?Only one phase is manufactured by the Phase Perfect. The other two phases are basically passthrough (how they get a second phase from single phase is still a bit of a mystery to me). So the output voltage adjustment won¡¯t actually lower all the outputs - at least not on my PTE007. It¡¯s possible your model can.? I would get clarification from Phase Technologies.
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In my case (KF700SP) I had to go through a process of reducing internal voltage inside the machine by changing a tap on the main control transformer. ?It has extra taps for changing the internal output voltages by +/- 10%. ?In my case my line voltage was 242V. The spec for the KF700 is 230V +/- 10% (207V-253V) so 242V is well within range. Nevertheless - electronics have variances and my particular machine wanted lower voltage.
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Working space was tight so I had to unmount the transformer to move the wires.?
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I was an electronics repair tech in a past life so I was comfortable doing this with Felder¡¯s guidance/approval.
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
Bryce, thanks for the offer. I am not yet convinced that is the cause of my problem, but if that changes I will get back to you.?
What brand and model is your transformer?
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
Netanel, that is one of the things the tech checked, and changed. He modified something in the electrical box rather than changing the plug connection. I am not sure he documented his change.?
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Jason Holtz
Dan Gavrilyuk
David P. Best
imran
Ron Pomeroy