开云体育

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
  1. Felderownersgroup
  2. Messages
Expanded Topics Messages Polls
Date
Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end

 

Hi John,?
?
I have sanded parts as thin as 1mm, so you can definitely process thin material.?
?
I generally raise the feed bed two full rotations of the hand wheel when using 80 grit, which I think corresponds to something like 0.2mm per rotation, so 0.4mm passes. I wouldn't want to be much more aggressive than that. I usually use 80 grit to get to my final thickness, then I'll swap belts to go up through the grits (if necessary), leaving the feed bed fixed.?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end

 

I think the infeed pressure bar was not set correctly. ?I made an adjustment based upon your comment and it seems to have improved. The piece still gets hung up / slips but the snipe has diminished. I am not getting any snipe on the trailing end. ?I mostly process short pieces so i do not really want to deal with snipe. ? I am hoping to be able to sand down to 1/8-1/4 material as well. ??
?
How heavy of pass is realistic with this type of sander?
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

开云体育

Accurate technology Inc. makes great DRO’s!

I’m hoping one day they will develope a kit for the K700S. ?

Wade



On Dec 15, 2024, at 2:30?PM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:

?
Andrea,
?
By the way, Proscale does already have a kit for the Minimax SC4:
?
-Aaron
Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end

 

Hi John,?
?
Yes, snipe on the leading end of the piece would indicate you need more pressure on the in-feed pressure roller. I have the Northstate sander as well, and do not experience this snipe.?
?
I have a memory that there is some mention of the relationship between the in-feed roller and the primary drum, but I can't put my hands on it at the moment. I'd have t check my machine but I have a vague sense that I have my pressure roller set ~1mm or 2mm below the primary drum. My memory is that you want the in-feed roller to firmly engage with the work, but not so much that you feel a "ka-chunk" as the wood engages with the roller, and not so much that you're deflecting the feed bed.?
?
Do you have measurements of the relationship between your pressure roller and primary drum? Probably best to record the Factory settings prior to changing things...?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

Andrea,
?
By the way, Proscale does already have a kit for the Minimax SC4:
?
-Aaron
Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup

 

开云体育

Netanel,

If your cutter speed is too slow you get kickback and if your cutter speed is too fast the cutter could come apart.

When feeding if you feed too slowly then you create heat and burnish the wood which makes finishing and sanding more difficult and causes early wear on your knives. ?If you feed too fast then you get a rough surface.

I want to say that 24 cut per inch leaves a nice finish. ?So you can shoot for the proper amount of cuts per inch by adjusting your feed speed and cutter speed. ?I was able to proceed off the shaper with no sanding of profiles in my door and window shop saving a lot of time and mess sanding after milling. ?

I had a Garniga catalog that had the equations printed in it for the proper feed/cutter speeds but once I got a feel for the feed vs cutter speed I did not need the equations anymore.

Getting the best feed and cutter speed become more important the more material you are running to prolong the lives of the knives. Think of a Moulder running at 6000 rpm and 5 heads with four knives in each head running thousands of lineal feet per shift, bad speeds will cost a lot of money. This does not generally matter when doing small runs with carbide knives as it is unlikely a hobbiest will wear down good knives. ?

Joe?

On Dec 15, 2024, at 9:33?AM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:

I designed and printed a 80mm hose union to join 2 piece of 80mm hose I had until Felder will send me the 3m hose. My machine is finally hocked to the DC. I also made an adapter to the Aigner Bowmolder. If someone wants the stl files I can upload them to the site.
I should get a package from S&S tomorrow with some safety accessories from Aigner and can start running the machine. It will be a bit tricky since I recently sold my A3-31 (in less than 24H) and I can’t dimension hardwood until I'll get the new J/P.
?
I would also like to ask how do you determine the power feeder speed to the shaper cutter/spindle speed?
Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end

 
Edited

Just started getting familiar with my new Powermatic 1632 open end wide belt similar to Northstate machine. ?I am getting snipe on the leading end of a 22” piece of 12/4 white oak. ?I adjusted the pressure bar with no impact. ?It seems a like the indeed rollers are sitting too high but do appear to be adjustable down. ?Is this just a symptom of a short piece and have to live with it or are the infeed rollers adjustable? Or is there something else i may be doing wrong? ?Have been takingvery light passes with 80 grit. I am using the platen. Piece gets hung up after dropping off the first roller.?
?
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

开云体育

Thanks Bryce.

Imran Malik

On Dec 15, 2024, at 2:26?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:

?
That's awesome Imran,
I have been looking at the DRO on my flipstop myself lately thinking of ways i can make it better. Not sure i would ever get it looking that professional though!
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
How to connect a 400-800 Morticing unit to a Felder BF5-31

 

Hello,
?
I have an elderly but much loved Felder BF5-31 and I have managed to purchase what I think is a 400-800 morticing unit to go with it, but I am struggling to understand whether I have the right parts to connect it to my machine. I was told by Felder that the two should fit together without the need of adapters. The machine itself has two approx. 10mm unthreaded holes which match the position of two approx. 16mm unthreaded holes on the morticing unit. There are some strangely shaped custom bolts in these holes now which I presume were needed to attach it to the series 500 machine it was previously fitted to, and which I presume will need to be removed as the threads do not fit through the 10mm holes. There are also some spacers (?) on the side of the morticer, which I presume will need to be used to offset it enough so that the mobile base can fit in between. Does anyone have a similar set-up and if so could I please ask you to take a photo or two to show me how one connects to the other? I am also baffled as to how to access the rear of the holes on the machine itself if bolts need to pass through as I have not opened it on this side before, and it is not clear which panel needs to come off in order to do so. I hope a fellow Felder owner is able to help. Thank you in advance!
?
Davide
?
P.S. I am waiting for the chuck to arrive in the post...
?
Top view - which bolts to undo to get inside?
View of strange bolt probably for series 500 connection
Side view showing serial number of morticing unit
?
?
Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets

 

We do 3/4 all the way around. Don’t have to change materials on the cnc.?

On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 2:29?PM Wade Dees via <wjdsignature=[email protected]> wrote:
I’ve gone to just using 1/2” plywood for all of my cabinet backs.? I found it’s a lot less labor and fussing around.? And you can put a screw anchor anywhere. ?

Wade

On Dec 15, 2024, at 10:19?AM, John Stevenson via <jmsxray=[email protected]> wrote:

?
Blum also has a very adjustable rail hanging system that is fairly easy to incorporate into your cabinets.

On Sun, Dec 8, 2024 at 8:33?PM Bryce Comer via <bryce=[email protected]> wrote:
If you build your uppers with a 1/4" back with nailers, then you can route a space for a 1x4 to sit under your nailer. This is how I typically hang my uppers. I can do all the prep work of fixing a 1x4 exactly level, and screw all the cabinets together I can, then just need a hand to lift the cabinets up on to the wall until I get a screw or two in. Doing it this way you will find it way easier to get everything lined up and installed with a minimum amount of fuss, and perfectly level and without any distortion of the boxes. When you pop the doors on, you will be amazed at how easy it is to get all your doors closing properly and the reveals right.
--
Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets

 

开云体育

I’ve gone to just using 1/2” plywood for all of my cabinet backs. ?I found it’s a lot less labor and fussing around. ?And you can put a screw anchor anywhere. ?

Wade

On Dec 15, 2024, at 10:19?AM, John Stevenson via groups.io <jmsxray@...> wrote:

?
Blum also has a very adjustable rail hanging system that is fairly easy to incorporate into your cabinets.

On Sun, Dec 8, 2024 at 8:33?PM Bryce Comer via <bryce=[email protected]> wrote:
If you build your uppers with a 1/4" back with nailers, then you can route a space for a 1x4 to sit under your nailer. This is how I typically hang my uppers. I can do all the prep work of fixing a 1x4 exactly level, and screw all the cabinets together I can, then just need a hand to lift the cabinets up on to the wall until I get a screw or two in. Doing it this way you will find it way easier to get everything lined up and installed with a minimum amount of fuss, and perfectly level and without any distortion of the boxes. When you pop the doors on, you will be amazed at how easy it is to get all your doors closing properly and the reveals right.
--
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

That's awesome Imran,
I have been looking at the DRO on my flipstop myself lately thinking of ways i can make it better. Not sure i would ever get it looking that professional though!
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

Ok, thank you Malik, I'll see what to do
Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets

 

Blum also has a very adjustable rail hanging system that is fairly easy to incorporate into your cabinets.


On Sun, Dec 8, 2024 at 8:33?PM Bryce Comer via <bryce=[email protected]> wrote:
If you build your uppers with a 1/4" back with nailers, then you can route a space for a 1x4 to sit under your nailer. This is how I typically hang my uppers. I can do all the prep work of fixing a 1x4 exactly level, and screw all the cabinets together I can, then just need a hand to lift the cabinets up on to the wall until I get a screw or two in. Doing it this way you will find it way easier to get everything lined up and installed with a minimum amount of fuss, and perfectly level and without any distortion of the boxes. When you pop the doors on, you will be amazed at how easy it is to get all your doors closing properly and the reveals right.
--
Re: K 700S T slot nut

 

Nelson, I have been using the Kreg Automaxx clamps on shop-build bases. They do not require precise adjustments to accommodate the thickness of the workpieces. They do tend to pull the workpiece toward the clamp just a little bit, though, so I have to be sure I hold the wood in position while clamping.
?
I have Macs clamps on order, hoping to get a set in January. Be advised - lead time is substantial. Not as long as getting a saw from Felder, but still something to be accounted for when planning.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
Re: K 700S T slot nut

 

开云体育


However, if I only use manual clamp, what options are the best?

IMO, this Festool ratcheting clamp is the best choice (in conjunction with a shop made T-slot adapter) provided you don’t need the clamp to rotate off centerline. ?

image0.png

This Festool clamp does not have a tendency to cause the material to move as the pressure is applied - which is my biggest complaint with the Kreg-style and Felder manual clamp. ?

This topic has been thoroughly discussed many times in the past and I recommend you search the message archives to discover what other people have done in this regard. ?Example:


Personally, I consider Mac’s clamps an absolute necessity and well worth the money as a safety device.?

David Best
Re: K 700S T slot nut

 

David:? Yes, it is typical that I over think these things.? It's probably a good idea to wait until I get my saw first.? I was just trying to be proactive and get some things planned out before hand.? The line of work I do involves ultra high vacuum chambers and I have access to a lot of machine shops to make parts if I need.? I like your miter fence adaptor idea, I have a nice after market miter fence for my delta that will be selling.? I got it not long ago and have not had a chance to use it much.? I was hoping to find a way to use the miter fence in a similar way as your Osborne with the adaptor.
?
As for my intended use, clamping is the first, maybe make a few extra ones to use for F&F jig or other jigs down the road.? The short fence mounting application, I saw someone using an extra roller on the front so the short fence can be aligned easily.? If that can be done, I would use that setup, it seems easy if you can buy the roller from Felder for a reasonable price.
?
For the Mac's clamp, I got the information.? However, if I only use manual clamp, what options are the best?
?
Thanks,
?
Nelson
Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup

 

I designed and printed a 80mm hose union to join 2 piece of 80mm hose I had until Felder will send me the 3m hose. My machine is finally hocked to the DC. I also made an adapter to the Aigner Bowmolder. If someone wants the stl files I can upload them to the site.
I should get a package from S&S tomorrow with some safety accessories from Aigner and can start running the machine. It will be a bit tricky since I recently sold my A3-31 (in less than 24H) and I can’t dimension hardwood until I'll get the new J/P.
?
I would also like to ask how do you determine the power feeder speed to the shaper cutter/spindle speed?
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

开云体育

Andrea, Thanks for the picture. There is not much body to attach the DRO. The option I see is to use a longer axle for the flip stop and attach a simple box with DRO in it.

For the sensor you need a minimum slot width of 10mm. The sensor holder in my design requires 12mm. If the slits are not wide enough then you may have to apply mag tape on the rear of the fence, assuming you don’t use that side of the fence. If you do that then you will need to make a simple bracket to hold sensor in front of the tape.

Hope this helps.

Imran Malik

On Dec 15, 2024, at 12:07?PM, Andrea Cerroni via groups.io <andreacerroni75@...> wrote:

?

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Imran, nice support for the Dro M503, really compliments. It would be nice if you could also design one for the cross guide stops (like the ones in the photo) of my Minimax SC4 Elite, unfortunately I'm not good at 3d drawing.
?
?
<Screenshot_2021-03-27-16-26-34-035_com.google.android.youtube.jpg>
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

开云体育

Thanks Bill.

Hi Andrea,

Puoi rispondere in privato cliccando su "Rispondi al mittente" in fondo al messaggio. Inviami una foto del tuo fermo guida trasversale su minimax con alcune dimensioni. Posso controllare se questo design si adatta. Avrei anche bisogno della larghezza della fessura della recinzione e della profondità.

Imran Malik

On Dec 15, 2024, at 11:45?AM, Andrea Cerroni via groups.io <andreacerroni75@...> wrote:

?
Ciao Imran, bel supporto per il Dro M503, complimenti davvero. Sarebbe bello se potessi anche progettarne uno per i fermi guida incrociati del mio minimax sc4 elite, sfortunatamente non sono bravo nel disegno 3D.
?
?
<Screenshot_2021-03-27-16-26-34-035_com.google.android.youtube.jpg>
2461 - 2480 of 141024