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Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets

 

We do 3/4 all the way around. Don’t have to change materials on the cnc.?

On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 2:29?PM Wade Dees via <wjdsignature=[email protected]> wrote:
I’ve gone to just using 1/2” plywood for all of my cabinet backs.? I found it’s a lot less labor and fussing around.? And you can put a screw anchor anywhere. ?

Wade

On Dec 15, 2024, at 10:19?AM, John Stevenson via <jmsxray=[email protected]> wrote:

?
Blum also has a very adjustable rail hanging system that is fairly easy to incorporate into your cabinets.

On Sun, Dec 8, 2024 at 8:33?PM Bryce Comer via <bryce=[email protected]> wrote:
If you build your uppers with a 1/4" back with nailers, then you can route a space for a 1x4 to sit under your nailer. This is how I typically hang my uppers. I can do all the prep work of fixing a 1x4 exactly level, and screw all the cabinets together I can, then just need a hand to lift the cabinets up on to the wall until I get a screw or two in. Doing it this way you will find it way easier to get everything lined up and installed with a minimum amount of fuss, and perfectly level and without any distortion of the boxes. When you pop the doors on, you will be amazed at how easy it is to get all your doors closing properly and the reveals right.
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Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets

 

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I’ve gone to just using 1/2” plywood for all of my cabinet backs. ?I found it’s a lot less labor and fussing around. ?And you can put a screw anchor anywhere. ?

Wade

On Dec 15, 2024, at 10:19?AM, John Stevenson via groups.io <jmsxray@...> wrote:

?
Blum also has a very adjustable rail hanging system that is fairly easy to incorporate into your cabinets.

On Sun, Dec 8, 2024 at 8:33?PM Bryce Comer via <bryce=[email protected]> wrote:
If you build your uppers with a 1/4" back with nailers, then you can route a space for a 1x4 to sit under your nailer. This is how I typically hang my uppers. I can do all the prep work of fixing a 1x4 exactly level, and screw all the cabinets together I can, then just need a hand to lift the cabinets up on to the wall until I get a screw or two in. Doing it this way you will find it way easier to get everything lined up and installed with a minimum amount of fuss, and perfectly level and without any distortion of the boxes. When you pop the doors on, you will be amazed at how easy it is to get all your doors closing properly and the reveals right.
--
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

That's awesome Imran,
I have been looking at the DRO on my flipstop myself lately thinking of ways i can make it better. Not sure i would ever get it looking that professional though!
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

Ok, thank you Malik, I'll see what to do
Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets

 

Blum also has a very adjustable rail hanging system that is fairly easy to incorporate into your cabinets.


On Sun, Dec 8, 2024 at 8:33?PM Bryce Comer via <bryce=[email protected]> wrote:
If you build your uppers with a 1/4" back with nailers, then you can route a space for a 1x4 to sit under your nailer. This is how I typically hang my uppers. I can do all the prep work of fixing a 1x4 exactly level, and screw all the cabinets together I can, then just need a hand to lift the cabinets up on to the wall until I get a screw or two in. Doing it this way you will find it way easier to get everything lined up and installed with a minimum amount of fuss, and perfectly level and without any distortion of the boxes. When you pop the doors on, you will be amazed at how easy it is to get all your doors closing properly and the reveals right.
--
Re: K 700S T slot nut

 

Nelson, I have been using the Kreg Automaxx clamps on shop-build bases. They do not require precise adjustments to accommodate the thickness of the workpieces. They do tend to pull the workpiece toward the clamp just a little bit, though, so I have to be sure I hold the wood in position while clamping.
?
I have Macs clamps on order, hoping to get a set in January. Be advised - lead time is substantial. Not as long as getting a saw from Felder, but still something to be accounted for when planning.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
Re: K 700S T slot nut

 

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However, if I only use manual clamp, what options are the best?

IMO, this Festool ratcheting clamp is the best choice (in conjunction with a shop made T-slot adapter) provided you don’t need the clamp to rotate off centerline. ?

image0.png

This Festool clamp does not have a tendency to cause the material to move as the pressure is applied - which is my biggest complaint with the Kreg-style and Felder manual clamp. ?

This topic has been thoroughly discussed many times in the past and I recommend you search the message archives to discover what other people have done in this regard. ?Example:


Personally, I consider Mac’s clamps an absolute necessity and well worth the money as a safety device.?

David Best
Re: K 700S T slot nut

 

David:? Yes, it is typical that I over think these things.? It's probably a good idea to wait until I get my saw first.? I was just trying to be proactive and get some things planned out before hand.? The line of work I do involves ultra high vacuum chambers and I have access to a lot of machine shops to make parts if I need.? I like your miter fence adaptor idea, I have a nice after market miter fence for my delta that will be selling.? I got it not long ago and have not had a chance to use it much.? I was hoping to find a way to use the miter fence in a similar way as your Osborne with the adaptor.
?
As for my intended use, clamping is the first, maybe make a few extra ones to use for F&F jig or other jigs down the road.? The short fence mounting application, I saw someone using an extra roller on the front so the short fence can be aligned easily.? If that can be done, I would use that setup, it seems easy if you can buy the roller from Felder for a reasonable price.
?
For the Mac's clamp, I got the information.? However, if I only use manual clamp, what options are the best?
?
Thanks,
?
Nelson
Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup

 

I designed and printed a 80mm hose union to join 2 piece of 80mm hose I had until Felder will send me the 3m hose. My machine is finally hocked to the DC. I also made an adapter to the Aigner Bowmolder. If someone wants the stl files I can upload them to the site.
I should get a package from S&S tomorrow with some safety accessories from Aigner and can start running the machine. It will be a bit tricky since I recently sold my A3-31 (in less than 24H) and I can’t dimension hardwood until I'll get the new J/P.
?
I would also like to ask how do you determine the power feeder speed to the shaper cutter/spindle speed?
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

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Andrea, Thanks for the picture. There is not much body to attach the DRO. The option I see is to use a longer axle for the flip stop and attach a simple box with DRO in it.

For the sensor you need a minimum slot width of 10mm. The sensor holder in my design requires 12mm. If the slits are not wide enough then you may have to apply mag tape on the rear of the fence, assuming you don’t use that side of the fence. If you do that then you will need to make a simple bracket to hold sensor in front of the tape.

Hope this helps.

Imran Malik

On Dec 15, 2024, at 12:07?PM, Andrea Cerroni via groups.io <andreacerroni75@...> wrote:

?

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Imran, nice support for the Dro M503, really compliments. It would be nice if you could also design one for the cross guide stops (like the ones in the photo) of my Minimax SC4 Elite, unfortunately I'm not good at 3d drawing.
?
?
<Screenshot_2021-03-27-16-26-34-035_com.google.android.youtube.jpg>
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

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Thanks Bill.

Hi Andrea,

Puoi rispondere in privato cliccando su "Rispondi al mittente" in fondo al messaggio. Inviami una foto del tuo fermo guida trasversale su minimax con alcune dimensioni. Posso controllare se questo design si adatta. Avrei anche bisogno della larghezza della fessura della recinzione e della profondità.

Imran Malik

On Dec 15, 2024, at 11:45?AM, Andrea Cerroni via groups.io <andreacerroni75@...> wrote:

?
Ciao Imran, bel supporto per il Dro M503, complimenti davvero. Sarebbe bello se potessi anche progettarne uno per i fermi guida incrociati del mio minimax sc4 elite, sfortunatamente non sono bravo nel disegno 3D.
?
?
<Screenshot_2021-03-27-16-26-34-035_com.google.android.youtube.jpg>
Re: Xcut DRO Update

 
Edited

Hi Imran, nice support for the Dro M503, really compliments. It would be nice if you could also design one for the cross guide stops (like the ones in the photo) of my Minimax SC4 Elite, unfortunately I'm not good at 3d drawing.
?
?

Screenshot_2021-03-27-16-26-34-035_com.google.android.youtube.jpg

Re: Xcut DRO Update

 

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Looks great Imran!
Bill Belanger?


On Dec 15, 2024, at 06:48, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
I have been teasing about this for over a year now. Finally have it printed and final tweaks are being made. I intend to have it available for purchase beginning of next year. There is one for the rip fence as well. The idea is to supply a complete system with DRO to make installation easy.




Imran Malik
<Video.mov>
Re: sliding table saw: parallel fence vs 2nd crosscut fence? #k700s

 

Gerry:? Your setup is more or less how I would like mine to be setup.? Is the short fence a 900mm one?
Re: K700S for sale

 

I am still looking for a home for this saw. It is ready to ship now.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
Xcut DRO Update

 

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I have been teasing about this for over a year now. Finally have it printed and final tweaks are being made. I intend to have it available for purchase beginning of next year. There is one for the rip fence as well. The idea is to supply a complete system with DRO to make installation easy.




Imran Malik

Video.mov
Video.mov

Re: Felder RL 140 manual?

 

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RL125 / RL140 / RL160 manual is here:


The older AD741 manual is here:?

?/g/felderownersgroup/files/Manuals%20&%20Drawings/AD%20741%20user%20manual.pdf


David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best



On Dec 14, 2024, at 9:10?PM, Donald Parker via groups.io <Donald.d.parker@...> wrote:

My shop mate and I have an RL 140 dust collector that hasn't been pulling its weight recently. I suspect we need to open it up to do some manual cleaning of the filters rather than just the pull bar on the outside. We don't have a manual so I went searching on the web and can't seem to find it. Anyone have a pointer to an electronic copies of Felder manuals (specifically the RL 140)?
?
Thanks, Donald. ?
?
PS - Bonus points if you've got a pointer to a manual for an old Felder AD 741 Planer/Thicknesses too! ?Thanks!
Felder RL 140 manual?

 

My shop mate and I have an RL 140 dust collector that hasn't been pulling its weight recently. I suspect we need to open it up to do some manual cleaning of the filters rather than just the pull bar on the outside. We don't have a manual so I went searching on the web and can't seem to find it. Anyone have a pointer to an electronic copies of Felder manuals (specifically the RL 140)?
?
Thanks, Donald. ?
?
PS - Bonus points if you've got a pointer to a manual for an old Felder AD 741 Planer/Thicknesses too! ?Thanks!
Re: K 700S T slot nut

 

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Nelson,

I don’t believe I’ve seen you post about your intended use or need for a T-nut. ?That information would be helpful in guiding you.

But I think you’re over analyzing this and getting confused in the process. ?I recommend you get your machine and the accessories that go with it and try it out. ?If you are lucky, the short crosscut fence will go on/off/on the machine and consistently register square and all this stuff about T-nuts and bushings can be ignored/forgotten.

If you ordered the 1100mm short crosscut fence with your K700S order, then it should come with the coupling system that adapts the fence extrusion with flip-stops to the sliding table and includes a 90-degree flip-stop. ?:

ShotiMac_2335.jpeg

Believe me when I say that if there were a simpler method of fixing the existing 90-degree registration issues with the Felder short fence coupling system I would have done that. ?I didn’t add the leveling grub-screws for the fun of it, and a looser tolerance on the locking lever-to-T-nut interface would defeat the entire purpose of the design correction. ?But it’s moot at this point because I no longer produce the upgrade kits. ?Another member here on FOG (netanel.belgazal) was exploring the idea of a group purchase using another machine shop to make the required parts. I don’t know where that project stands at present.

I recommend you go through and read all the posts in this thread?from the archives. ?That thread goes into some of the alternatives for a simple on/off short crosscut fence. ?

You can also consider an approach that adapts on off-the-shelf miter gauge to the slider?. ?If you build yourself a Fritz & Franz jig with a precise fit to the T-slot or clamps to the P-channel, it can serve as a short crosscut fence that is consistently at 90-degrees when put on the slider. ??

There are also other quasi Fritz & Franz jigs that will swivel for mitering applications, but they do not register square, nor do they have angle markings, so every time you use it you must use some contrived method of aligning it properly. ?Here is a link to one such jig that is made by RUWI in Germany and sold by Felder (and Martin and SCMI) on an OEM basis. ??is the RUWI from Felder, and I reviewed it at?. ?I have one that was used only to do that review and I’d be glad to sell it to you if you want. ?DM me if you are interested.

As for the “5/8” End Mill Cutter” and “-1.74mm” notations on the drawing, those are their as a setup aid for milling the T-nut from bar stock. ?It represents the milling cutter CL offset required to attain the properly dimensioned wings on the T-nut. ?You can see that operation on the mill in??at 0.28 in the timeline. ?And the purpose of the bushing is fully discussed in??- it is part of the modification that eliminates the slop at the pivot point for the fence.

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best



On Dec 14, 2024, at 5:16?PM, jiojio_nc via groups.io <jiojio_nc@...> wrote:

Thanks for the info David, this is very helpful.??
?
It seems the bushing location on the Felder T nut is just 1 and you have 2 such locations on your design.? I have not seen any of the Felder accessories or the fence, have a few more questions:
- What is the bushing typically used for?? I see you use it for vertical alignment in the videos, I can see how it's used.? If you don't care too much about vertical alignment, like securing a clamp, the bushing is not really needed right?
- Is there a pin on the Felder fence to go into the bushing as well?? I can not tell from anything I have read or on videos.? If the Felder T Nut can not be aligned like your design, then the accessory may not be vertically aligned corrected.
- In you revised design drawing, there is a --1.74mm gap at the edge of top left corner.? I'm not sure what that's showing, is it tapered from the bottom to the top by 1.74mm?
-? Also, what is the "5/8 end mill cutter" note on the left upper corner?? I have not seen much mechanical drawings before, not too familiar with these notations.
?
Thanks,
?
Nelson?
Re: Felder slider and Mitre gauges

 

I put mine on a long pegboard peg. The clamp hooked over the peg, and the fence dangled straight down. Not very elegant, but since I did not use it I did not care. (Now it is on a pallet, as I try to find a buyer for the saw).
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
2501 - 2520 of 141055