Lucky you. My A3-31 planer/joiner came misaligned. ?I did not realize at the time because I hardly used the machine for several months and I did not have the proper equipment to check the table alignment. By the time I got around to it, the warranty had long since expired. I have since aligned the tables but recently I noticed I missed one alignment so back to work¡
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We had the same bandsaw and the Woodslicer in 3/4¡± works quite well¡ and less $
then the Resaw King which we also had¡..
?
Mike
?
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Not everyone has poor luck with Felder. My K700S arrived with no shipping issues, while my jointer had some packaging damage but no damage to the machine.
?
Yes, I tuned the slider a bit free the Felder tech finished, but after that it has been great.
?
Felder shipped my 450X by dedicated freight, meaning it was the only thing on the truck. They insisted on that because of the value of the machine. Tomorrow it will be delivered by my rigger, so I will see how it fared.
?
My only complaint so far is that I was told delivery would be August or September when I bought it in March, and here it is late November.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Dennis,
You can write on the Receipt/Bill of Lading ¡°Subject to Inspection¡±. And that gives you some time to inspect the machine for damage.
Joe
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On Nov 20, 2024, at 11:01?AM, Denno via groups.io <dennis@...> wrote:
Hi all, this is a long read and pertains more to first time slider buyers at the serious hobbyist level than any pros or seasoned veterans of this type of machinery. I am just going to give you my newbie learned lessons on my first purchase of a slider and its setup in the hope that it may help a prospective buyer on what to expect when going through the process. As I found out, it's quite different than just buying a standard table saw from one of many companies such as SawStop, Powermatic, etc. If you study the FOG history enough, some of these items are described in there, I am only summarizing in one post what I learned and what I woulda, coulda, shoulda done differently. ?
The first thing, I live in central AZ and I kick myself for not picking up the saw directly from the Sacramento location. It cost me $1200 for delivery via Estes freight and they not only missed their date, which is no big deal, but as you will see in the attached pictures, they did a very poor job of handling it carefully. This mishandling cost me several hours to fix the damage but was the best alternative to making a claim and going through that mess. This has happened to me before on freight deliveries and anymore it seems to be a 50-50 tossup on whether your goods arrive safely. I understand that picking up the equipment may not be feasible for some so you may not have that option. ?
Secondly, I wish I clarified exactly what will be delivered with the saw. Just because you included some essentials like blades etc., it does not mean those are being shipped with your saw. They may arrive a week or two later from a different warehouse and could affect your setup schedule. If you do enough research ahead of time on the FOG, you will find out that at a minimum, you will probably want extra items such as the appropriate machine levelers, some type of hydraulic table for lifting the slider, and if you are commissioning the saw yourself, some dial indicators, and a machinist level (See David Best' video). These are tools you normally won't find at local hardware stores. ?
The third item is when attempting to level the machine, I should have put my electronic Stabila level directly in the center of the cast table, first leveling side to side. That requires only raising the 2 feet on the low side. Next, spin your level 90 degrees and level front to back. Again, that only requires adjusting the 2 front or 2 back feet, remembering that the leveling foot towards the inside has a greater effect than the leveling foot on the outside. Repeat until you are satisfied, then, using a sensitive machinist level (as in David's video), compare your front side-to-side cast table readings with your back side-to-side cast table readings and use the cast table adjusters (not the leveling feet) to get them in sync. My table was off by several thou at this point (maybe due to mishandling during shipping) which caused me a lot of wasted time trying to level the front and back edges simultaneously using the machine levelers ¨C most likely an impossible task. Anyway, I was able to get the front and rear edges of the cast table exactly in sync using the cast table adjustment method. ?
The fourth item is not to count on the factory calibration of the slider to the cast table to be anywhere near the accuracy you want. In my scenario, I had to loosen a few of the studs to get the remote switch connector on the underside of the carriage to fit between the slider carriage and the machine base as I slid the slider carriage forward. I only had to raise 4 of the studs a fraction of an inch to do this but the bottom line was I'm not sure if I changed the slider alignment that much or if the factory alignment was that far off. Anyway, I would plan on several hours getting the table aligned even using David's faster method described in his video. I don't know how long it would have taken me using the Felder method. ?
The fifth item, and this is my bad as I should know better - don't change over from your current saw to your new slider in the middle of a project. This is kind of obvious and it just puts you in too much of a rush and I feel you really need to take the appropriate amount of time to set this new saw up properly. But the catch here is you do have to take the time to inspect everything within 5 days to make a claim on hidden damage or missing parts so keep that in mind if you are running on a tight schedule. ?
The last item - don't count on being able to detect shipping damage at the time of delivery. The machine is so well packaged in wrap that you can't possible remove all the wrapping to inspect all the parts. In my case some damage to the crate was visible, but I could not detect any damage to the individual parts until completely unwrapping everything. I don't know of any carrier who will wait that long for you to un-bundle it ¨C which took me a minimum of an hour+. ?
Anyway, that's my list of learned lessons on the delivery and setup. Once I got through the damage repair and the setup process, I now have a great machine that I am looking forward to using on all my future projects. In comparison to my previous SawStop ICS, this Felder build quality is top notch. If you are considering one of these to replace your traditional table saw, I think you will be very pleased with your decision to purchase one. I know that I am a very happy new owner. ?
Hope the above summary helps someone considering a purchase. Not all items may apply depending on your situation and how well the shipper, if you use one, handles your equipment. ?
Dennis Payson, AZ ?
?
?
|
Denny,
Welcome to the world of Felder! ?IMHO, they suck!
Wade
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On Nov 20, 2024, at 11:02?AM, Denno <dennis@...> wrote:
?
Hi all, this is a long read and pertains more to first time slider buyers at the serious hobbyist level than any pros or seasoned veterans of this type of machinery. I am just going to give you my newbie learned lessons on my first purchase of a slider and its setup in the hope that it may help a prospective buyer on what to expect when going through the process. As I found out, it's quite different than just buying a standard table saw from one of many companies such as SawStop, Powermatic, etc. If you study the FOG history enough, some of these items are described in there, I am only summarizing in one post what I learned and what I woulda, coulda, shoulda done differently.
?
The first thing, I live in central AZ and I kick myself for not picking up the saw directly from the Sacramento location. It cost me $1200 for delivery via Estes freight and they not only missed their date, which is no big deal, but as you will see in the attached pictures, they did a very poor job of handling it carefully. This mishandling cost me several hours to fix the damage but was the best alternative to making a claim and going through that mess. This has happened to me before on freight deliveries and anymore it seems to be a 50-50 tossup on whether your goods arrive safely. I understand that picking up the equipment may not be feasible for some so you may not have that option.
?
Secondly, I wish I clarified exactly what will be delivered with the saw. Just because you included some essentials like blades etc., it does not mean those are being shipped with your saw. They may arrive a week or two later from a different warehouse and could affect your setup schedule. If you do enough research ahead of time on the FOG, you will find out that at a minimum, you will probably want extra items such as the appropriate machine levelers, some type of hydraulic table for lifting the slider, and if you are commissioning the saw yourself, some dial indicators, and a machinist level (See David Best' video). These are tools you normally won't find at local hardware stores.
?
The third item is when attempting to level the machine, I should have put my electronic Stabila level directly in the center of the cast table, first leveling side to side. That requires only raising the 2 feet on the low side. Next, spin your level 90 degrees and level front to back. Again, that only requires adjusting the 2 front or 2 back feet, remembering that the leveling foot towards the inside has a greater effect than the leveling foot on the outside. Repeat until you are satisfied, then, using a sensitive machinist level (as in David's video), compare your front side-to-side cast table readings with your back side-to-side cast table readings and use the cast table adjusters (not the leveling feet) to get them in sync. My table was off by several thou at this point (maybe due to mishandling during shipping) which caused me a lot of wasted time trying to level the front and back edges simultaneously using the machine levelers ¨C most likely an impossible task. Anyway, I was able to get the front and rear edges of the cast table exactly in sync using the cast table adjustment method.
?
The fourth item is not to count on the factory calibration of the slider to the cast table to be anywhere near the accuracy you want. In my scenario, I had to loosen a few of the studs to get the remote switch connector on the underside of the carriage to fit between the slider carriage and the machine base as I slid the slider carriage forward. I only had to raise 4 of the studs a fraction of an inch to do this but the bottom line was I'm not sure if I changed the slider alignment that much or if the factory alignment was that far off. Anyway, I would plan on several hours getting the table aligned even using David's faster method described in his video. I don't know how long it would have taken me using the Felder method.
?
The fifth item, and this is my bad as I should know better - don't change over from your current saw to your new slider in the middle of a project. This is kind of obvious and it just puts you in too much of a rush and I feel you really need to take the appropriate amount of time to set this new saw up properly. But the catch here is you do have to take the time to inspect everything within 5 days to make a claim on hidden damage or missing parts so keep that in mind if you are running on a tight schedule.
?
The last item - don't count on being able to detect shipping damage at the time of delivery. The machine is so well packaged in wrap that you can't possible remove all the wrapping to inspect all the parts. In my case some damage to the crate was visible, but I could not detect any damage to the individual parts until completely unwrapping everything. I don't know of any carrier who will wait that long for you to un-bundle it ¨C which took me a minimum of an hour+.
?
Anyway, that's my list of learned lessons on the delivery and setup. Once I got through the damage repair and the setup process, I now have a great machine that I am looking forward to using on all my future projects. In comparison to my previous SawStop ICS, this Felder build quality is top notch. If you are considering one of these to replace your traditional table saw, I think you will be very pleased with your decision to purchase one. I know that I am a very happy new owner.
?
Hope the above summary helps someone considering a purchase. Not all items may apply depending on your situation and how well the shipper, if you use one, handles your equipment.
?
Dennis
Payson, AZ
?
?
?
<CrateDamage1.jpg> <SliderBox.jpg> <Brace-Left.jpg> <ExtTableDamage2.jpg>
|
Hi all, this is a long read and pertains more to first time slider buyers at the serious hobbyist level than any pros or seasoned veterans of this type of machinery. I am just going to give you my newbie learned lessons on my first purchase of a slider and its setup in the hope that it may help a prospective buyer on what to expect when going through the process. As I found out, it's quite different than just buying a standard table saw from one of many companies such as SawStop, Powermatic, etc. If you study the FOG history enough, some of these items are described in there, I am only summarizing in one post what I learned and what I woulda, coulda, shoulda done differently.
?
The first thing, I live in central AZ and I kick myself for not picking up the saw directly from the Sacramento location. It cost me $1200 for delivery via Estes freight and they not only missed their date, which is no big deal, but as you will see in the attached pictures, they did a very poor job of handling it carefully. This mishandling cost me several hours to fix the damage but was the best alternative to making a claim and going through that mess. This has happened to me before on freight deliveries and anymore it seems to be a 50-50 tossup on whether your goods arrive safely. I understand that picking up the equipment may not be feasible for some so you may not have that option.
?
Secondly, I wish I clarified exactly what will be delivered with the saw. Just because you included some essentials like blades etc., it does not mean those are being shipped with your saw. They may arrive a week or two later from a different warehouse and could affect your setup schedule. If you do enough research ahead of time on the FOG, you will find out that at a minimum, you will probably want extra items such as the appropriate machine levelers, some type of hydraulic table for lifting the slider, and if you are commissioning the saw yourself, some dial indicators, and a machinist level (See David Best' video). These are tools you normally won't find at local hardware stores.
?
The third item is when attempting to level the machine, I should have put my electronic Stabila level directly in the center of the cast table, first leveling side to side. That requires only raising the 2 feet on the low side. Next, spin your level 90 degrees and level front to back. Again, that only requires adjusting the 2 front or 2 back feet, remembering that the leveling foot towards the inside has a greater effect than the leveling foot on the outside. Repeat until you are satisfied, then, using a sensitive machinist level (as in David's video), compare your front side-to-side cast table readings with your back side-to-side cast table readings and use the cast table adjusters (not the leveling feet) to get them in sync. My table was off by several thou at this point (maybe due to mishandling during shipping) which caused me a lot of wasted time trying to level the front and back edges simultaneously using the machine levelers ¨C most likely an impossible task. Anyway, I was able to get the front and rear edges of the cast table exactly in sync using the cast table adjustment method.
?
The fourth item is not to count on the factory calibration of the slider to the cast table to be anywhere near the accuracy you want. In my scenario, I had to loosen a few of the studs to get the remote switch connector on the underside of the carriage to fit between the slider carriage and the machine base as I slid the slider carriage forward. I only had to raise 4 of the studs a fraction of an inch to do this but the bottom line was I'm not sure if I changed the slider alignment that much or if the factory alignment was that far off. Anyway, I would plan on several hours getting the table aligned even using David's faster method described in his video. I don't know how long it would have taken me using the Felder method.
?
The fifth item, and this is my bad as I should know better - don't change over from your current saw to your new slider in the middle of a project. This is kind of obvious and it just puts you in too much of a rush and I feel you really need to take the appropriate amount of time to set this new saw up properly. But the catch here is you do have to take the time to inspect everything within 5 days to make a claim on hidden damage or missing parts so keep that in mind if you are running on a tight schedule.
?
The last item - don't count on being able to detect shipping damage at the time of delivery. The machine is so well packaged in wrap that you can't possible remove all the wrapping to inspect all the parts. In my case some damage to the crate was visible, but I could not detect any damage to the individual parts until completely unwrapping everything. I don't know of any carrier who will wait that long for you to un-bundle it ¨C which took me a minimum of an hour+.
?
Anyway, that's my list of learned lessons on the delivery and setup. Once I got through the damage repair and the setup process, I now have a great machine that I am looking forward to using on all my future projects. In comparison to my previous SawStop ICS, this Felder build quality is top notch. If you are considering one of these to replace your traditional table saw, I think you will be very pleased with your decision to purchase one. I know that I am a very happy new owner.
?
Hope the above summary helps someone considering a purchase. Not all items may apply depending on your situation and how well the shipper, if you use one, handles your equipment.
?
Dennis
Payson, AZ
?
?
?
|
Highland Woodworking Wood Slicer blades. 1/2" or 3/4" will perform similarly on this size saw. You will get great straight cuts and limited scrollabiliyy due to thin kerf and lack of tooth set.?
If you search group you will find many positive discussion contributions.
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Hi All
?
I have a Laguna 14SUV bandsaw (the one with the ceramic guides) which I've had for several years and uses a 125" blade. I currently have a 1" Resaw King in it which now requires sharpening. As I've never used it to create veneers and is primarily used to rip solid wood like cherry, I think I should just buy 'disposable' blades instead.?
?
Unfortunately, I've not had much success with alternative blades I have purchased in the past. I bought a couple of Timber Wolf blades from my local Woodcraft and was not impressed, specifically the weld seemed like the blade was not straight(?) and it would drift away from the rear guide while running. So much so that I went back to the Resaw King and just left it alone.
?
I am hoping there are blades out there that are recommended with the following attributes;
- perfectly serviceable for ripping up to 12/4 solid wood but is mostly used for 4/4 stock.
- cheaper than a new Resaw King. (I would have to buy a second for use while the first is being resharpened.)
- will not frustrate me when trying to align the guides.
I think that is all the info I need to mention, but please let me know if I've missed anything out. (BTW, I did a search on the forum for my question but it seem most are discussing the quality of the bandsaw and don't get into the well regarded blades. I may be wrong...)
?
Many thanks in advance.
?
Rob P.
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Re: Felder 3 Phase Setup: Hardwired? Or Plug Into Outlet?
Hi John, the input breaker on your phase converter is sized to provide enough current to power the 3 phase load, plus an additional 125%.
?
If you have a converter rated at 30 amperes output at 240 volts, the input breaker would be in the range of 60 to 70 amperes.
?
Since L1 and L2 of the phase converter output are directly connected to the incoming line, you would have a 30 ampere receptacle protected by a 60 or 70 ampere breaker.
?
If the phase converter doesn't have a suitably rated output breaker, a fused disconnect switch with 30 ampere fuses, or a breaker would be required to protect the outlet.
?
Regards, Rod.
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Hi David,
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Did you sell the mortiser?
?
I live in Los Angeles, but could make a trip in your direction if it's still available.
?
And what would you want for it?
?
Thanks,
?
Greg
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Re: Transport Brackets - how many does K700S need?
Dennis and PK, this helps a lot!
?
I was wondering how to secure the fence bar to the pallet. I¡¯ll keep an eye out for a place to use the other brackets as well.
?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Transport Brackets - how many does K700S need?
I just received my K700S a few days ago and I know there were 4 holding down the saw body. Two were used to hold the fence bar in place
which was not attached to the saw. The pre-attached studs on the bar were bolted to the hold down brackets which were screwed into the pallet.
2 more held down something else - but I don't remember offhand what it was. But there were just 4 holding my saw to the pallet.
Hope that helps.
?
Dennis
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Yes, I'm in agreement with Imran, if you push an E-stop it will latch open.
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If the machine continues to run it sounds like contactor K1 is sticking.
?
Regards, rod.
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Seems pretty inconvenient to only have one start switch, especially when you have a big machine to walk around.
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On Nov 18, 2024, at 4:51?PM, ibsenafshar via groups.io <brian@...> wrote: ? There was one start and two stop buttons when I got it. I have added a start and a stop button on the left side.
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There was one start and two stop buttons when I got it. I have added a start and a stop button on the left side.
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Hi Ibsenafshar, ? Thanks for sharing the schematic. So there really is a single start switch for all functions? ? Imran Malik ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of ibsenafshar via groups.io Sent: Monday, November 18, 2024 11:17 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Help please..... ? attached is a wiring diagram from a 1999 C3-31 which may be of use.
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Re: Felder 3 Phase Setup: Hardwired? Or Plug Into Outlet?
I did a load center.? I did drops from the ceiling and some on the wall as well.
?
125 amp breaker in the main box
?
I now have 8 separate circuits off the load center
- 50 amp wide belt circuit - Ceiling drop
- 40 amp J/P circuit - Ceiling drop
- 30 amp slider circuit - wall
- 30 amp DC circuit - in outside closet now.
- 30 amp shaper circuit - Ceiling drop
- 30 amp RAS circuit - wall
- 20 amp dovetail machine circuit - wall
- 20 amp extra - Spindle boring/Balestrini - wall
Here are some pictures of my panels.? As David said, mounting a panel on the outside of the wall and using conduit could make more sense for a lot of shops.? I have a "raceway" in the middle of my walls to address some of what David was talking about with flexibilty, but I feel that if anything, I should have added more drops and less wall outlets for the 3ph machines.?
?
?   ?
PK
?
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Re: Transport Brackets - how many does K700S need?
My AD-941 had them also...
?
PK
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Transport Brackets - how many does K700S need?
I am getting ready to put my K700S on a pallet for shipping, and am planning to use the transport brackets that came with the saw. I had the foresight when I received the saw to zip-tie the brackets together and tuck them away inside the machine base so they would not get lost.
?
I see four locations for the transport brackets, but have eight actual brackets. Hmmm - what am I missing here? Does the saw actually need eight brackets?
?
Maybe the extras came with my A941, but I do not see mounting slots on the jointer.
?
A co-worker once told me he had a fine memory, except it is short. The older I get the more I can relate to that.
?
Thanks for any input!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Felder 3 Phase Setup: Hardwired? Or Plug Into Outlet?
That is a big boy,
?
For that machine you might want a distribution load. To support 130A you will need a hefty cable to run on your main trunk.
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Denno
Rob Pritchard
rodsheridan
imran
PK