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You will see references to "Mac's clamps" on here. A member- Mac Campshure- builds pneumatic clamps that are probably the best upgrade as far as for use and safety. I would recommend looking into these first of any additions.
His website is Airtightclamps.com
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Bon
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Re: Bowmouldmaster Install Issue
You could just rotate the template. ?I know the hood won¡¯t be square to the front of the table, but that¡¯s a solution I think. ?The curved work used with that hood won¡¯t care if the hood is slightly skewed to the table or not.
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Bowmouldmaster Install Issue
Finally installing the bowmouldmaster on my KF700. FWIW, it is the larger of the 2 hoods supplied by Aigner.
I used the template provided by Aigner to locate the 2 holes I need to drill and tap (M12-1.75). These will be used to secure the hood to the cast iron table.
There is an existing hole in the casting which will not allow me to drill the left side hole in the location indicated by the template. Picture below shows the left side hole¡¯s punched location and the existing hole with black plug. The dot pointed to by the red arrow is the punch mark.
I can move both holes ~3/4¡± towards the rear and verified that I can clamp the hood throughout the required range as shown in the 2 pics below. I also checked the shallow curved stop even though only the tighter curve stop is shown in the pics.
I may need to drill another set if I need to move the hood forward for large dia cutters but I am hoping that one set will do.
Before I start drilling, I just wanted to run this past folks who have experience using this hood. You all see any issues?
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
I would like to pose a question to the group regarding the comments above¡. I am in a small space with a K700S, and every inch of usability that I remove from the right side of the blade I pick up on the left side.
Given this scenario, how would you all apportion the space? Right side as small as possible to maximize cross-cut/outrigger capacity? Is there a happy medium?
-David Gandy
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
Sign your posts with a name so we know who you are.? David Best - via mobile phone?
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Show quoted text
On Oct 26, 2024, at 11:01?AM, Jonathan Maloney via groups.io <jonathanmaloney123@...> wrote:
? What do you mean by name please?
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
This is how I recommend you set up your rip fence for use as both a conventional rip fence and as a bump stop:
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DM me if you have questions. ?
David Best - via mobile phone?
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Show quoted text
On Oct 26, 2024, at 5:04?AM, Jonathan Maloney via groups.io <jonathanmaloney123@...> wrote:
?
Hi Everyone?
?
I just joined the forum and there is so much helpful info, thanks everyone!
?
I just got my k700s 2 weeks ago and would like some advice on ripping. My saw was setup by a Felder tech and he gave the rip fence a toe out. I don¡¯t like when I use it as a bump stop and I find ripping harder than on my old cabinet saw.?
Any advice or tips on the rip fence and ripping would be greatly appreciated.?
I read the post about adding tape to the rip fence when using it as a stop. I think David Best wrote it. I have not tried it yet, but I will
?
thanks for taking the time to read my post?
Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
The German BGHM guide, is the most informative I've seen, regarding the use of sliders.
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All the best
Tom
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Dennis,
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???????? I'm sure you will enjoy your new saw, but it is a different way of working and takes some time to adjust to it. But for me, it was certainly a game changer as far as precision and safety by doing 90 % of all cutting to the left of the blade. I usually only use the rip fence as a stop.?? I simply use Kreg bench clamps for hold downs as you will definitely need some way to hold material to the slider. But of course there are many options for that. I drilled small pieces of 1/2" thick aluminum to adapt the clamps to the slider. Some sort of parallel cutting device is another must have tool to get you started. ? Good luck, Tom Ruth
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
He means that you should always sign your posts with your name at the end.
?
Like other stated, it is recommended to use the slider and/or a Frizt-n-Franz jig to rip anything on the left side of the blade.? That being said, I find that I still need to rip on the right side occasionally if the need arises.? An example would be a 6-8 foot long board that is 1-1/2" wide that I need to rip down to 1" wide.? Trying to do this on the slider has elements of inaccuracy because the long board can bend/fliex sideways to create a width that changes over the 6-8 feet.?
?
-Aaron Inami
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
What do you mean by name please?
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
Welcome to the club Jonathan,? Best advice is to do your ripping to the left of the blade on the slider. I do mine in conjunction with the flip stop on the fence and Brian's parallel fence towards the rear of the slider. I also use a Fritz and Franz for ripping some smaller parts and tapers. The only thing I ever use the rip fence for is a bump stop.?
I also still have a cabinet saw, and will rip there occasionally.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Welcome to the FOG. Brian is awesome. I¡¯m in Tempe and if you ever get down here I¡¯d love to show you my shop and chat. Brian taught me a lot. ?
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Hi Dennis,
Welcome to the FOG! Please feel free to ask questions... also, I have a narrow pallet jack if you want to borrow one, given your proximity to me.?
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 07:42:14 PM MST, Alex Bowlds via groups.io <aabj@...> wrote:
Hi Dennis,
?
Congratulations on your purchase. ?I'm sure once you have adjusted to the different ways you use a slider vs the traditional cabinet saw, you will find it a joy to use.
?
As for getting it off the pallet, many build a ramp and use a narrow pallet jack to move the saw. ?The saw is designed to accept a narrow pallet Jack from either end of the saw. ?You should be able to rent one. ?However, if you need to move the saw in the future, you might consider purchasing one. ?They are very handy around the shop.
?
Have a great weekend,
?
Alex B.
On 10/25/2024 5:38 PM PDT Denno <dennis@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi all, I just wanted to introduce myself to this group. I live in North Central Arizona, am retired after decades of software development, and have done many wood and some metal projects over the years.
Anyway, I just completed the order of a new K700S which will be my first slider, and I am so looking forward to receiving it. It was in stock and under Felder's November promotions, so I expect to receive it within a couple of weeks at the latest.
I know it is more than what I really need - but is there really anything that is "overkill" when you love high quality machinery? I have been accused of that more than once :-)
?
I will be selling my Sawstop ICS which has been a great saw - but this new 700 I think will be my dream machine.
I couldn't get the Felder overhead guard/dust collection hood due to out-of-stock conditions and shipping costs on a separate order so I will look into either the Harvey model hood or possibly making my own.
Another item I will probably make on my own is the outrigger carrier - that will be a great accessory for the times I don't need the outrigger.
?
After looking into a slider for months, I think my near future purchases or projects will be one of the F&F jigs and, since I am only an hour North of Phoenix, checking out Lamb Toolworks for parallel cutting accessories etc. It looks like Brian has some really nice stuff.
I am also thanking David Best ahead of time for his video on how to setup the slider for the most accurate cuts - what a great video he did to help out on that - many thanks to him.
I will also be researching some more on the best way to just get the saw off the pallet and positioned in the shop. No small chore, I fear.
?
Well, I just wanted to say I'm grateful for this forum and all of its information.?
I welcome any advice and help from anyone and look forward to contributing any information I can offer as I go through my learning experience with this fine piece of equipment.
Many Thanks
Dennis
?
?
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
I went through the same evolution. The tape trick on the rip fence really works.
?
I do miss the ability to quickly and accurately rip with a rip fence, but have learned to rip with the slider. It just takes a little more time to set up a cut. ?Using the rip fence to align stock for ripping works pretty well if your stock is wide enough to clamp to the table. Otherwise use parallel fences like the one Lamb Tool Works sells. A Fritz and Fanz jig helps rip pieces that are fairly short (say 2 feet or less), but I have not gotten comfortable using mine for longer pieces.
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if you have not done so, add DRO to your outrigger fence and to your rip fence. Those upgrades will make many operations easier.
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Overall the change from a cabinet saw to a slider has been positive. So positive, in fact, that I am upgrading from a K700S to a Kappa 450X. That saw is on a boat transiting the Panama Canal right now.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
Name please. ?Best advice¡use the slider for almost everything¡the riip fence should be a seldom used item. ?Terry
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 25, 2024, at 11:46 PM, Jonathan Maloney <jonathanmaloney123@...> wrote:
Hi Everyone?
?
I just joined the forum and there is so much helpful info, thanks everyone!
?
I just got my k700s 2 weeks ago and would like some advice on ripping. My saw was setup by a Felder tech and he gave the rip fence a toe out. I don¡¯t like when I use it as a bump stop and I find ripping harder than on my old cabinet saw.?
Any advice or tips on the rip fence and ripping would be greatly appreciated.?
I read the post about adding tape to the rip fence when using it as a stop. I think David Best wrote it. I have not tried it yet, but I will
?
thanks for taking the time to read my post?
|
Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
Hi Everyone?
?
I just joined the forum and there is so much helpful info, thanks everyone!
?
I just got my k700s 2 weeks ago and would like some advice on ripping. My saw was setup by a Felder tech and he gave the rip fence a toe out. I don¡¯t like when I use it as a bump stop and I find ripping harder than on my old cabinet saw.?
Any advice or tips on the rip fence and ripping would be greatly appreciated.?
I read the post about adding tape to the rip fence when using it as a stop. I think David Best wrote it. I have not tried it yet, but I will
?
thanks for taking the time to read my post?
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Ordered one.... came today. Just unpacked it but haven't run it as yet. Looks like a nice machine! Thanks for pointer on that again. CWI folks were easy to work with as well.
-Bob
On Thu, Sep 12, 2024 at 3:42?PM Bob Wise < bob@...> wrote: Thanks for the pointer to the CWI/sandx brand. The 26" wide version of the dual drum looks decent at a price quite a bit below the powermatic.
Mariusz,
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I have had all three that people are talking about and my brother has the open end wide belt from Powermatic.
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I started with a Performax 22-44.? It worked well.? It is slow and the electronics to modulate the belt speed failed once.? We decided to re-engineer the controller, as it seemed pretty fragile electrically.
?
I then bought a Sand-X 37" dual drum sander from CWI in Canada.? This is sold under many brands with slight differences.? Powermatic sells it, but decided to put the drive belts in the sanding envelope, CWI puts the belts in an enclosure outside the sanding envelope.? This machine has far more power and is significantly faster than the open end drum sanders.? These models come with rubber drums to manage heat better, offer better sandpaper connection and solid dust collection.? They also do not have an electronic system to slow the infeed roller motor.? There is no circuit board to fry, but if you are not careful, you can burn a belt pretty badly.? I really liked it, shipping was cheap and the support was good.? Powermatic also sells it in the version Bob is looking at, a dual drum 25".? It is the same machine with less width to the sander.? The scratch pattern is the same as a Performax or any other open end drum sander that does not oscillate.
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My brother found the open ended Powermatic 16" sander used and in great condition.? It is the same as the NorthState that David was talking about earlier.? He too likes it and uses it in a production fashion.? The scratch pattern is better because the belt oscillates.
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I then found a great deal on a used? 37" wide belt.? I realize that there are huge upgrades to dust collection and power to accommodate them, but a wide belt is just next level with finish quality and precision.
?
For you, I would find a Powermatic clone open end wide belt (used, they do come up) or a double drum like Bob is talking about.
?
?
PK
?
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Hi Dennis,
?
Congratulations on your purchase. ?I'm sure once you have adjusted to the different ways you use a slider vs the traditional cabinet saw, you will find it a joy to use.
?
As for getting it off the pallet, many build a ramp and use a narrow pallet jack to move the saw. ?The saw is designed to accept a narrow pallet Jack from either end of the saw. ?You should be able to rent one. ?However, if you need to move the saw in the future, you might consider purchasing one. ?They are very handy around the shop.
?
Have a great weekend,
?
Alex B.
On 10/25/2024 5:38 PM PDT Denno <dennis@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi all, I just wanted to introduce myself to this group. I live in North Central Arizona, am retired after decades of software development, and have done many wood and some metal projects over the years.
Anyway, I just completed the order of a new K700S which will be my first slider, and I am so looking forward to receiving it. It was in stock and under Felder's November promotions, so I expect to receive it within a couple of weeks at the latest.
I know it is more than what I really need - but is there really anything that is "overkill" when you love high quality machinery? I have been accused of that more than once :-)
?
I will be selling my Sawstop ICS which has been a great saw - but this new 700 I think will be my dream machine.
I couldn't get the Felder overhead guard/dust collection hood due to out-of-stock conditions and shipping costs on a separate order so I will look into either the Harvey model hood or possibly making my own.
Another item I will probably make on my own is the outrigger carrier - that will be a great accessory for the times I don't need the outrigger.
?
After looking into a slider for months, I think my near future purchases or projects will be one of the F&F jigs and, since I am only an hour North of Phoenix, checking out Lamb Toolworks for parallel cutting accessories etc. It looks like Brian has some really nice stuff.
I am also thanking David Best ahead of time for his video on how to setup the slider for the most accurate cuts - what a great video he did to help out on that - many thanks to him.
I will also be researching some more on the best way to just get the saw off the pallet and positioned in the shop. No small chore, I fear.
?
Well, I just wanted to say I'm grateful for this forum and all of its information.?
I welcome any advice and help from anyone and look forward to contributing any information I can offer as I go through my learning experience with this fine piece of equipment.
Many Thanks
Dennis
?
?
|
Hi all, I just wanted to introduce myself to this group. I live in North Central Arizona, am retired after decades of software development, and have done many wood and some metal projects over the years.
Anyway, I just completed the order of a new K700S which will be my first slider, and I am so looking forward to receiving it. It was in stock and under Felder's November promotions, so I expect to receive it within a couple of weeks at the latest.
I know it is more than what I really need - but is there really anything that is "overkill" when you love high quality machinery? I have been accused of that more than once :-)
?
I will be selling my Sawstop ICS which has been a great saw - but this new 700 I think will be my dream machine.
I couldn't get the Felder overhead guard/dust collection hood due to out-of-stock conditions and shipping costs on a separate order so I will look into either the Harvey model hood or possibly making my own.
Another item I will probably make on my own is the outrigger carrier - that will be a great accessory for the times I don't need the outrigger.
?
After looking into a slider for months, I think my near future purchases or projects will be one of the F&F jigs and, since I am only an hour North of Phoenix, checking out Lamb Toolworks for parallel cutting accessories etc. It looks like Brian has some really nice stuff.
I am also thanking David Best ahead of time for his video on how to setup the slider for the most accurate cuts - what a great video he did to help out on that - many thanks to him.
I will also be researching some more on the best way to just get the saw off the pallet and positioned in the shop. No small chore, I fear.
?
Well, I just wanted to say I'm grateful for this forum and all of its information.?
I welcome any advice and help from anyone and look forward to contributing any information I can offer as I go through my learning experience with this fine piece of equipment.
Many Thanks
Dennis
?
?
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Re: AD 531 Jointer/Planer
Hi James, the AD531 has either a 3 or 4 Kw motor, depending upon what you purchased.
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The 20 ampere circuit is fine for the 3Kw motor, if you have the 4 Kw motor I would recommend trying it on the 20A circuit, if it starts fine it will run fine.
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If not install a 30 ampere circuit.
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Regards, Rod.
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Bon May
imran
David P. Best
Tom Trees
Jason Holtz
Joe Jensen
Denno
rodsheridan