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Re: Drive Belt Position Sensor Errors and other machine shortcomings? K940S
Yes, this happens frequently on the Kappa 400. ?The dust extraction on these systems is inferior to the K975 it replaced, and a couple of us here on FOG have had distasteful arguments with Hansj?rg Felder himself about this. ?The best solution to this error is to spray down the sensors with compressed air on a routine basis.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Sep 19, 2024, at 12:05?PM, Mike Hertler via groups.io <mhertler@...> wrote:
K940S...Has anyone experience the belt speed sensors throwing on the "fault" light because the sensors are constantly getting covered in dust!? First time it happened, a quick call to Felder instructed me to just clean the sensors. That definitely is the fix but is anyone aware of any mods or advice that can help to avoid this from occurring? I take rather good care of this machine with regular cleaning/maintenance and am rather displeased with what I feel is a bad design on Felder's part. This seems to happen way more often than I would expect especially considering regular cleaning. It just seems rather silly to use an optical sensor in a place where it can so easily get covered by dust and then be such a pain to crawl under the machine and have to clean or change the belts through that small door.??
?
I'm coming up on two years of ownership on this machine and constantly find myself a bit frustrated with a few things I had noticed during recent servicing including loose switches on the control panel and parts of the slide table locking mechanism coming loose. I also had the blade height mechanism lock at max height once and not react at all to any of the control switches. After speaking with tech support, they advised me to disconnect the motor from the terminal strips and power it with a 20v drill battery to make it move off it's limit. After a brief move with the drill batt and then reconnecting it, I've never had it occur again but seriously? They knew enough to know it happens and immediately offer a "fix" but no explanation as to why it occurred or how to make an adjustment? Just seemed a bit odd.
?
Is anyone else displeased with the build quality of these tools? I feel for the most part everything is fine but there are just some things I am noticing that makes me question their quality and longevity when comparing to other major manufacturers such as Martin or Altendorf.?
?
I would love to hear some opinions as I will soon be planning a new shop build, had considered purchasing other machines they offer but don't know if that seems like the best idea after these experiences.?
?
?
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Re: Drive Belt Position Sensor Errors and other machine shortcomings? K940S
Hi Mike:
?
I have a Kappa 400 which is similar to your machine under the cast iron table. Because mine is an x-motion version, instead of a ¡°light¡± showing a sensor fault for blade speeds, the fault comes up on screen.
However, I don¡¯t need to dive under the table to correct it.
?
Instead, I blow compressed air under the table around the blade and arbor or just around the scoring blade and that usually clears the fault (in real time). Sometimes I even stick the end of my blow gun in
the hole adjacent to the scoring blade (for adjusting the blade height) and that fixes the sensor issue.
?
I do not regard this occasional fault as a design defect. Optical sensors (if that is what is under there) are inside my wide belt sander too and help maintain alignment. I occasionally have to blow those
sensors clean as well.
?
That all said, maybe you¡¯ve tried compressed air yourself? I¡¯d certainly feel ticked off if I had to crawl under my machine (even occasionally) to clear a fault. But compressed air works very well for me.
Good luck.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
K940S...Has anyone experience the belt speed sensors throwing on the "fault" light because the sensors are constantly getting covered in dust!? First time it happened, a quick call to Felder instructed me
to just clean the sensors. That definitely is the fix but is anyone aware of any mods or advice that can help to avoid this from occurring? I take rather good care of this machine with regular cleaning/maintenance and am rather displeased with what I feel
is a bad design on Felder's part. This seems to happen way more often than I would expect especially considering regular cleaning. It just seems rather silly to use an optical sensor in a place where it can so easily get covered by dust and then be such a
pain to crawl under the machine and have to clean or change the belts through that small door.??
I'm coming up on two years of ownership on this machine and constantly find myself a bit frustrated with a few things I had noticed during recent servicing including loose switches on the control panel and
parts of the slide table locking mechanism coming loose. I also had the blade height mechanism lock at max height once and not react at all to any of the control switches. After speaking with tech support, they advised me to disconnect the motor from the terminal
strips and power it with a 20v drill battery to make it move off it's limit. After a brief move with the drill batt and then reconnecting it, I've never had it occur again but seriously? They knew enough to know it happens and immediately offer a "fix" but
no explanation as to why it occurred or how to make an adjustment? Just seemed a bit odd.
Is anyone else displeased with the build quality of these tools? I feel for the most part everything is fine but there are just some things I am noticing that makes me question their quality and longevity
when comparing to other major manufacturers such as Martin or Altendorf.?
I would love to hear some opinions as I will soon be planning a new shop build, had considered purchasing other machines they offer but don't know if that seems like the best idea after these experiences.?
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For sale: felder KF 700/S pro, 8741 planter joiner, AF 22 dust collector, collector, carbide cutters, and blades
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Re: Drive Belt Position Sensor Errors and other machine shortcomings? K940S
Hi Mike,
There are sensors on my K975 but I am not certain if they are optical. The description in the book is not detailed enough. This is what it looks like in the exploded assembly deg (item 28).
I have RL125 with some 30¡¯+ ducting and several turns so I would not call it very good dust collection but I do not have an issue.
I assume you have adequate dust collection. Probably not very helpful but it is a data point.
Also, for my saw it just illuminates the RPM on the panel, not sure if anything would happen if it stops working. Do you have CNC option with display. In that case, maybe it is an input that matters. Just spit balling.
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On Sep 19, 2024, at 3:06?PM, Mike Hertler via groups.io <mhertler@...> wrote: ? K940S...Has anyone experience the belt speed sensors throwing on the "fault" light because the sensors are constantly getting covered in dust!? First time it happened, a quick call to Felder instructed me to just clean the sensors. That definitely is the fix but is anyone aware of any mods or advice that can help to avoid this from occurring? I take rather good care of this machine with regular cleaning/maintenance and am rather displeased with what I feel is a bad design on Felder's part. This seems to happen way more often than I would expect especially considering regular cleaning. It just seems rather silly to use an optical sensor in a place where it can so easily get covered by dust and then be such a pain to crawl under the machine and have to clean or change the belts through that small door.??
?
I'm coming up on two years of ownership on this machine and constantly find myself a bit frustrated with a few things I had noticed during recent servicing including loose switches on the control panel and parts of the slide table locking mechanism coming loose. I also had the blade height mechanism lock at max height once and not react at all to any of the control switches. After speaking with tech support, they advised me to disconnect the motor from the terminal strips and power it with a 20v drill battery to make it move off it's limit. After a brief move with the drill batt and then reconnecting it, I've never had it occur again but seriously? They knew enough to know it happens and immediately offer a "fix" but no explanation as to why it occurred or how to make an adjustment? Just seemed a bit odd.
?
Is anyone else displeased with the build quality of these tools? I feel for the most part everything is fine but there are just some things I am noticing that makes me question their quality and longevity when comparing to other major manufacturers such as Martin or Altendorf.?
?
I would love to hear some opinions as I will soon be planning a new shop build, had considered purchasing other machines they offer but don't know if that seems like the best idea after these experiences.?
?
?
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Drive Belt Position Sensor Errors and other machine shortcomings? K940S
K940S...Has anyone experience the belt speed sensors throwing on the "fault" light because the sensors are constantly getting covered in dust!? First time it happened, a quick call to Felder instructed me to just clean the sensors. That definitely is the fix but is anyone aware of any mods or advice that can help to avoid this from occurring? I take rather good care of this machine with regular cleaning/maintenance and am rather displeased with what I feel is a bad design on Felder's part. This seems to happen way more often than I would expect especially considering regular cleaning. It just seems rather silly to use an optical sensor in a place where it can so easily get covered by dust and then be such a pain to crawl under the machine and have to clean or change the belts through that small door.??
?
I'm coming up on two years of ownership on this machine and constantly find myself a bit frustrated with a few things I had noticed during recent servicing including loose switches on the control panel and parts of the slide table locking mechanism coming loose. I also had the blade height mechanism lock at max height once and not react at all to any of the control switches. After speaking with tech support, they advised me to disconnect the motor from the terminal strips and power it with a 20v drill battery to make it move off it's limit. After a brief move with the drill batt and then reconnecting it, I've never had it occur again but seriously? They knew enough to know it happens and immediately offer a "fix" but no explanation as to why it occurred or how to make an adjustment? Just seemed a bit odd.
?
Is anyone else displeased with the build quality of these tools? I feel for the most part everything is fine but there are just some things I am noticing that makes me question their quality and longevity when comparing to other major manufacturers such as Martin or Altendorf.?
?
I would love to hear some opinions as I will soon be planning a new shop build, had considered purchasing other machines they offer but don't know if that seems like the best idea after these experiences.?
?
?
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Re: Fitting a mobile base to a Hammer A3-31
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Designing and building for 50 years
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On Sep 18, 2024, at 12:32?AM, Derek Cohen via groups.io <derekcohen@...> wrote:
?
My Hammer A3-31 jointer-thicknesser has lived in the corner of my garage workshop for about 8 years now ...This is okay for moderate size work pieces, but larger boards, such as the recent dining table build, requires that the machine be pulled out into the workshop for clearance. This is not so easy since its mobility kit consists of two fixed rear wheels and a wheeled bar for the front.
I decided to fit the mobile base from Timbercon, their Sherwood Heavy Duty model, as this had larger, wider wheels and a sturdy steel frame. It can also handle 680Kg, which is twice that of the A3-31. But what I particularly liked about this mobile base was the four swivelling wheels set at the two ends, which placed them away from the front. This promised good movement and less obstructions.?The problem was now to get the base under the A3-31! Don't do this on your own, folks! Of course I did!This machine weighs in at 290Kg and I do not have any equipment for lifting heavy objects. I discovered that a crowbar works well, pivot point down, and can gain added height with a wooden shim added underneath.First step was to lift the rear up off the wheels using wooden wedges and the crowbar. This is the key to the whole endeavour. Adding blocks underneath, away from the perimeter (where the base will be) makes all relatively straightforward as we move along ...This included the front, so the legs could be removed ...The rear wheels could be unbolted at one end, and then the axel could be slid out ...Now assemble and size the rear section of the base (the front section will be the same length, so that may be assembled at the same time) ...Note that the front dimensions (width) of the A3-31 is shorter than the rear, hence the rear is completed first.This is the fit at the rear ...Throughout I used clamps to hold the base against the machine, and then to pull all together ...Once the rear is in position, slide in the front-and-side sections together. The bolts all are tightened from the outside, so no concerns for wrenches on the inside.Here are some photos of the fit ..1. Front2. Left side clearance at front3. Right side clearance at frontOne all done, it is easy to set the stationary stops (they just screw out to the desired height). You can adjust the stationary height to be perfectly level this way.In summary, this mobile base fits like a glove. It would have been an easier process had I not had to problem solve this method at the start (where I was hoping to use a hand trolley to lift one side - oh yeah! )Regards from PerthDerek
Fitting a mobile base to a Hammer A3-31
My Hammer A3-31 jointer-thicknesser has lived in the corner of my garage workshop for about 8 years now ...This is okay for moderate size work pieces, but larger boards, such as the recent dining table build, requires that the machine be pulled out into the workshop for clearance. This is not so easy since its mobility kit consists of two fixed rear wheels and a wheeled bar for the front.I decided to fit the mobile base from Timbercon, their Sherwood Heavy Duty model, as this had larger, wider wheels and a sturdy steel frame. It can also handle 680Kg, which is twice that of the A3-31. But what I particularly liked about this mobile base was the four swivelling wheels set at the two ends, which placed them away from the front. This promised good movement and less obstructions.?The problem was now to get the base under the A3-31! Don't do this on your own, folks! Of course I did!This machine weighs in at 290Kg and I do not have any equipment for lifting heavy objects. I discovered that a crowbar works well, pivot point down, and can gain added height with a wooden shim added underneath.First step was to lift the rear up off the wheels using wooden wedges and the crowbar. This is the key to the whole endeavour. Adding blocks underneath, away from the perimeter (where the base will be) makes all relatively straightforward as we move along ...This included the front, so the legs could be removed ...The rear wheels could be unbolted at one end, and then the axel could be slid out ...Now assemble and size the rear section of the base (the front section will be the same length, so that may be assembled at the same time) ...Note that the front dimensions (width) of the A3-31 is shorter than the rear, hence the rear is completed first.This is the fit at the rear ...Throughout I used clamps to hold the base against the machine, and then to pull all together ...Once the rear is in position, slide in the front-and-side sections together. The bolts all are tightened from the outside, so no concerns for wrenches on the inside.Here are some photos of the fit ..1. Front2. Left side clearance at front3. Right side clearance at frontOne all done, it is easy to set the stationary stops (they just screw out to the desired height). You can adjust the stationary height to be perfectly level this way.In summary, this mobile base fits like a glove. It would have been an easier process had I not had to problem solve this method at the start (where I was hoping to use a hand trolley to lift one side - oh yeah! )Regards from PerthDerek
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I would be quiet interested, would you ship it to europe? Also would it be possible to buy it without the router? Many thanks, Rich
On Tue, 10 Sept 2024 at 04:07, David Cameron via <woodtales= [email protected]> wrote: Would like to find a new home for Leigh FMT Pro with 3 1/4 hp dewalt plunge router. Asking ?$850.00 plus shipping. Reply if interested. Many extra¡¯s included.
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
Not sure how I missed that the first time but wow Mr Best, wow.
Mark Foster
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On Sep 17, 2024, at 10:14, Wade Dees via groups.io <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? I second that! ? On Sep 17, 2024, at 10:04?AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? David, ? You keep teasing us with picture of your F&F...time to go into production mode. Dave Davies On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 12:02?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. ?
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
--
Mark Foster
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
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On Sep 17, 2024, at 10:04?AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? David, ? You keep teasing us with picture of your F&F...time to go into production mode. Dave Davies On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 12:02?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. ?
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
David, ? You keep teasing us with picture of your F&F...time to go into production mode. Dave Davies
On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 12:02?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. ?
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Sep 17, 2024, at 9:25?AM, Mike via groups.io <mike@...> wrote:
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
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1. Try Naptha. If it is too fast but still works, downgrade to mineral spirits. 2. If #1 doesn't work, xylene or "xylol" 3. If #2 doesn't work, denatured alcohol 4. If you want it really gone, lacquer thinner and/or acetone. 5. If it's just a bit gummy, scrub a dub with some soapy water and a brush/broom? in multiple mild applications until desired results are achieved of removing excess but leaving protection.?
Hi,
Not a Felder question at all.
I recently finished my Ipe deck with an ipe oil finish. For one reason or another I left too much oil on the wood and it gummed up rather than soaked into the wood. (Note: I have used this oil before and wiped any excess off, this time i did not wipe off any excess)
Any suggestions on how to remove the gum?
I have tried scraping and sanding (and sanding after scraping), the sandpaper cloggs up in a matter of seconds .... the results are so so, and the wood remains a bit sticky.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Klaus Hermanns
Owner of 2001 CF731
?
--
Klaus
Owner of CF731
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Hi,
Not a Felder question at all.
I recently finished my Ipe deck with an ipe oil finish. For one reason or another I left too much oil on the wood and it gummed up rather than soaked into the wood. (Note: I have used this oil before and wiped any excess off, this time i did not wipe off any excess)
Any suggestions on how to remove the gum?
I have tried scraping and sanding (and sanding after scraping), the sandpaper cloggs up in a matter of seconds .... the results are so so, and the wood remains a bit sticky.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Klaus Hermanns
Owner of 2001 CF731
?
--
Klaus
Owner of CF731
|
Hi Christopher:
?
You are likely not missing much. Hardwax oils are easy to use, look good, and last fairly well. But those three descriptors could be used for a wide variety of finishes!
?
Maybe the only thing to consider is that hardwax oils, generally speaking, have lower toxicity. The percentages of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are lower, but they still contain a very high level of solvents
(with a few notable exceptions, e.g. Odie¡¯s Oil). I¡¯m not a chemist or finishing expert by any stretch of the imagination, so I don¡¯t know exactly how much safer the low VOC products are to general products.
?
That said, low VOC hardwax oils are far less smelly, and retain less smell too after they cure.
All the best.
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
Ok ya¡¯ll..
For years I have been using Watco and Waterlox, with what I believe to be success.
Am I missing something critical, or am I just clueless? I am not producing my projects commercially, and maybe that has some value in this discussion.
Chris Rozycki
> On Sep 14, 2024, at 6:12?AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
>
> ?[Edited Message Follows]
>
> Hi Lucky,
> I have only been using the Saicos premium hard wax oil on my home projects and the yurt I built for my son. I know they have other products but that¡¯s the only one I have used. I used some Osmo years ago and it seemed to work the same but certainly have not
put the research into this like you have. When I first started using these I felt like the build and protection was not so good wiping that first coat off. Hence going to leaving a heavy coat on the first application. It does dry fairly coarse and needs sanding
with 320. The 320 is a hold over from my hard finish days but getting the sheen and feel I like. I just use the microfiber roller they sell and leaving the material on without wiping doesn¡¯t seem like the type roller matters much.
> I¡¯m not using Hardwax oil for any exterior work. I have been using the Saicos UV exterior oil for this applied the same way. I have tried several of the European exterior oils and also US made Heritage Oil. It used to be made locally. They are all similar,
with exterior oil the recoating and maintenance is necessary depending on exposure.
>
> Now for my bar project I¡¯m using Rubio only because I like the way their stains go on. Not a fan of staining anything but an old fashioned bar calls for it. And the customer is always right! Or should we say - he with the gold makes the rules! The color is
coming out good but the one coat just doesn¡¯t seem like enough. I plan to use the sheen additive for a second coat. I did not see any reason to use the hardener since it will be a while before it is even installed.
> I talked to a guy that came to Alpine a few years ago that was using Rubio. He has since gone from a one man shop to a full on architectural shop with employees. He said he was getting a lot of callback on Rubio finished horizontal work. He started adding
N3 Nano to the topcoat and said that helped some but said he finally set up a spray booth using Poly and conversion varnish.
> For my bar tops I am going to go over the Rubio with Poly. Bars I built 20 to 30 years ago we finishe the bar tops with poly and easy to refinish when necessary. Conversion varnish is tougher but very difficult to refinish in the field.
>
>
>
>
>
> <IMG_9438.jpeg>
> <IMG_9437.jpeg>
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Jason, good point about the wax in these products. I did make a sample and the poly went on fine and still ok after a couple days. Way back when we did cabinets using glazes, stains and catalyzed topcoats we would test for compatibility by putting samples in the freezer overnight and out in the sun. I also hate poly but worried about the high usage on this bar. I have some time on this and will also look into going over this with Livos.
I am very pleased with the way the Rubio chocolate color went on the white oak. The wood had a lot of color variation and the stain evened it all out with no blotches. Very easy to apply on flat surfaces but tedious on the moulding.
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Hi Mike:
Can you give more specifics on this product? Emmet¡¯s urethane gel or ¡? Thanks!
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer
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We have used ¡®The Good Stuff¡¯ for the last 20+ years on butcher block tops. ?A little fussy to apply, (wipe on and off), and durable. ?Plus it¡¯s easy to touch up. ?Haven¡¯t found anything better, and looks pretty good on furniture too.
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
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We have used ¡®The Good Stuff¡¯ for the last 20+ years on butcher block tops. ?A little fussy to apply, (wipe on and off), and durable. ?Plus it¡¯s easy to touch up. ?Haven¡¯t found anything better, and looks pretty good on furniture too.
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
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I have only used Rubio twice.? It was the easiest thing to apply I have ever used, and smelled nice, sort of like honey, while it was going on as well.? I applied two coats, which drastically improved the sheen to something that looks like a matte?finish to me and everyone who has seen it.? A tiny bit goes a very long way.? Three years later (it's abar cabinet), it looks exactly as it did when I finished applying it.? That is curly cherry, not "blotching" in case anyone was concerned.? Jeff
On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 10:53?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don¡¯t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels.
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David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer
imran
Mark Foster
Mike
Jeff
