Just to add from my limited experience machining plastics with steel rollers straight , spiral and sectional all worked fine for HUMW , Delrin I have no experience with rubber rollers.? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 16, 2024, at 6:46?AM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Thats a nice feature, my okoma has? helicoidal steel roller and has been working fine.? ? mac,,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330 cell 608-824-0023 fax
instagram.com/maccampshure/
Designing and building for 50 years
On Thursday, August 15, 2024 at 11:55:24 PM CDT, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
There is another advantage to the helicoidal steel roller, you can do the quick change with it if you ever wanted to get a rubber one for a particular reason, like running plastics, for instance.? The sectioned one cannot be uninstalled easily.
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Thats a nice feature, my okoma has? helicoidal steel roller and has been working fine.? ? mac,,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330 cell 608-824-0023 fax
instagram.com/maccampshure/
Designing and building for 50 years
On Thursday, August 15, 2024 at 11:55:24 PM CDT, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
There is another advantage to the helicoidal steel roller, you can do the quick change with it if you ever wanted to get a rubber one for a particular reason, like running plastics, for instance.? The sectioned one cannot be uninstalled easily.
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Calling all bandsaw power feeder owners
Hi all, I'm currently in the process of making, or more correctly attempting to make, a bandsaw power feeder. It is a bit of an experiment and I'm quite prepared for it not to work, it's mainly been put together with bits and pieces I either had lying around or could acquire cheaply.
I managed to buy a pallet of five brand-new table saw power feeder support arms cheaply at a machinery auction. I figured that these could be adapted to the bandsaw.
I've modified the head where the normal power feader would attach so that I can attach a worm drive gearbox, from here I have two pallet jack wheels mounted as the drive rollers.
The power feeder support arms are very well made, the shafts are all precision ground and the cast-iron components are also accurately machined. I found that by loosening the lower mount slightly the vertical and horizontal alarms rotate smoothly with little friction and no perceptible slop.
I currently don't have any spring? system to apply pressure to the drive wheels to push against the workplece. I have the system to the point where I can power it up and manually push the horizontal arm. I have it running very slowly and it pushes timber okay . I tested the force generated by putting various weights in front of the timber and it seems that it will slip prematurely. That is I don't think it's generating enough force to push a sizable workpiece past the blade . The system has heaps of torque so that's not the problem.
I'm guessing this is an issue generally with bandsaw feeders as various models have serrated metal wheels and sometimes wheels similar to mine but with self stick sandpaper applied.
At this stage I would like to know how much force the spring loaded mechanism applies to the drive rollers in a commercial power feeder? I'm not after an exact force just some feel for whether it's modest high or very high.
I used a digital luggage scale to do some testing and I think my manual, "pushing with my arm", arrangement is generating somewhere around 25 to 30 kg.
So I'm trying to decide what to do next, either apply some self stick sandpaper to the wheels, or build a spring mechanism which produces higher force. I'm guessing that my 25 to 30 kg should be more than enough and that the slickness of the drive wheels is the issue.
Thanks in advance
Murray
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There is another advantage to the helicoidal steel roller, you can do the quick change with it if you ever wanted to get a rubber one for a particular reason, like running plastics, for instance.? The sectioned one cannot be uninstalled easily.
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Rubber feed rollers are a wear item that require replacement over time depending upon use conditions. ?The photo below illustrates the rubber feed rollers out of my Dual 51 after several years of use. ?The one on the top is the infeed roller, and you can see how the leading edge of a board going into the roller scores and chews off some of the rubber. ?Feeding lots of different thickness parts accelerates this wear. ?
Various places in the USA will recover rollers with 50, 60 or 70 durometer (your choice, I pick Mauve color) polyurethane. ?You must remove the rollers, send them off to be recovered, then reinstall. ?The last time I did this, it took 30 minutes to get the rollers out of the Dual 51, two weeks to get them recovered at a cost of about $350, and another 30 minutes to reinstall the rollers. ?If you order the Dual 51 with rubber rollers, the machine is provisioned to make it easy to get the rollers out and then back into the machine. ?I have seen other Felder J/P where doing this is an all day job requiring tons of disassembly to get the rollers out (example below of AD951 showing sectional pressure bar components that had to be removed to get to the rollers), so check on this.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Aug 15, 2024, at 1:45?PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
The problem with rubber rollers is board gets stuck in the roller and it chows it out now you gotta replace it , use spiral roller steel, and won¡¯t have that problem. I suspect that was section and feed roller. You also need sectional chipbreaker. This is advantageous for feeding different thicknesses of material through at one time and they¡¯ll come out the same rubber rollers will also accomplish that. If there¡¯s a little difference in the thickness of the material say a millimeter or two. my advice is stay away from rubber just a big pain in the ass. Not speaking from experience I¡¯m a sectional guy or spiral, but I ordered and replaced lots of damage river rollers for clients. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Aug 15, 2024, at 2:24?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
? I am going back to the feed roller.
I initially thought the feed roller that comes with the FS7 by default is the rubber roller.
?
In fact, the machine comes by default with helicoidal steel roller. Changing it to sectioned steel roller is an option that costs an additional $1000,
Sam recommended the helicoidal (unless I am running a lot smaller parts at the same time)
?
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The problem with rubber rollers is board gets stuck in the roller and it chows it out now you gotta replace it , use spiral roller steel, and won¡¯t have that problem. I suspect that was section and feed roller. You also need sectional chipbreaker. This is advantageous for feeding different thicknesses of material through at one time and they¡¯ll come out the same rubber rollers will also accomplish that. If there¡¯s a little difference in the thickness of the material say a millimeter or two. my advice is stay away from rubber just a big pain in the ass. Not speaking from experience I¡¯m a sectional guy or spiral, but I ordered and replaced lots of damage river rollers for clients. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 15, 2024, at 2:24?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
? I am going back to the feed roller.
I initially thought the feed roller that comes with the FS7 by default is the rubber roller.
?
In fact, the machine comes by default with helicoidal steel roller. Changing it to sectioned steel roller is an option that costs an additional $1000,
Sam recommended the helicoidal (unless I am running a lot smaller parts at the same time)
?
|
I am going back to the feed roller.
I initially thought the feed roller that comes with the FS7 by default is the rubber roller.
?
In fact, the machine comes by default with helicoidal steel roller. Changing it to sectioned steel roller is an option that costs an additional $1000,
Sam recommended the helicoidal (unless I am running a lot smaller parts at the same time)
?
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Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
I dislike WD box store crap? Try to avoid ?compressed cans always have to puncture and drain when propellent is gone. Let alone breathing the VOC? I buy ?lps. 1,2, 3 by gallon And use labeled squirt bottles like these. Much more controllable, Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 14, 2024, at 9:43?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
? P.S. WD40 is also somewhat solvent borne, it will work great immediately, as soon as it dries up a bit you will have a sticky mess with lots of residue.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, August 14, 2024 at 01:03:52 PM MST, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
Both Slick 50 and WD40 are penetrating oil lubricants.? The LPS 1 is considered a "dry lubricant" / water displacement element.? I think the LPS 1 would be good to treat surfaces that are exposed, but I'm not sure if it would work effectively on this scenario.? Since it's quick drying, I don't know that it would work itself inside the circular shafts enough to make a difference here on the FAT300 jack rod.
?
Thoughts? (I've never used LPS 1, so I can't comment).
?
-Aaron
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Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
P.S. WD40 is also somewhat solvent borne, it will work great immediately, as soon as it dries up a bit you will have a sticky mess with lots of residue.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, August 14, 2024 at 01:03:52 PM MST, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
Both Slick 50 and WD40 are penetrating oil lubricants.? The LPS 1 is considered a "dry lubricant" / water displacement element.? I think the LPS 1 would be good to treat surfaces that are exposed, but I'm not sure if it would work effectively on this scenario.? Since it's quick drying, I don't know that it would work itself inside the circular shafts enough to make a difference here on the FAT300 jack rod.
?
Thoughts? (I've never used LPS 1, so I can't comment).
?
-Aaron
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Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
Dry lubes are generally a solvent that carries a high pressure additive. You coat the items, the solvent evaporates and leaves behind a high pressure "coating" and then that does the rubbing against each other. They tend to work well in dirty environments as once they dry, they don't attract saw dust and grit like oils or greases will.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, August 14, 2024 at 01:03:52 PM MST, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
Both Slick 50 and WD40 are penetrating oil lubricants.? The LPS 1 is considered a "dry lubricant" / water displacement element.? I think the LPS 1 would be good to treat surfaces that are exposed, but I'm not sure if it would work effectively on this scenario.? Since it's quick drying, I don't know that it would work itself inside the circular shafts enough to make a difference here on the FAT300 jack rod.
?
Thoughts? (I've never used LPS 1, so I can't comment).
?
-Aaron
|
Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
Both Slick 50 and WD40 are penetrating oil lubricants.? The LPS 1 is considered a "dry lubricant" / water displacement element.? I think the LPS 1 would be good to treat surfaces that are exposed, but I'm not sure if it would work effectively on this scenario.? Since it's quick drying, I don't know that it would work itself inside the circular shafts enough to make a difference here on the FAT300 jack rod.
?
Thoughts? (I've never used LPS 1, so I can't comment).
?
-Aaron
|
Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
I will definitely look into lubricanting those areas tonight, thanks for the suggestion.?
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Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
Or lps 1 ?or slick 50 Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 14, 2024, at 11:26?AM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
? You need to lubricate the jack rod anywhere it rotates inside another piece with something like oil or WD40.? My stock FAT300S performed very poorly until I did this (it would be difficult to pump and would squeak like crazy if it had anything more than 150 lbs).? After WD40, it was very easy to "pump the height" even with a couple hundred pounds.
?
?
?
-Aaron
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Re: 2006 Kappa 40 Manuals
Just e-mail Felder with S/N off the machine label ( techsupport-us@... ) and they will provide a soft copy downlink. This ensures you get a manual specific to your model yr.
This will also move machine ownership in their records. If you so choose, include you phone# and address for their records. You would not need to do so for shipping parts once you are in their system.
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On Aug 14, 2024, at 11:04?AM, jamesscullin via groups.io <jamesscullin@...> wrote: ? Hello all,
New to the group and the Felder/ Format brands.?
I am picking up a new to me 2006 Kappa 40 with the motorized height and tild adjustments this weekend and am looking to get more information about the saw. Things like a parts manual, wiring schematic, and adjustment/ calibration instructions if anyone happens to still have any of that information.?
The DRO screens do not illuminate, but the hight and tilt on the saw does work, hence the need for the manuals to assist in troubleshooting.?
Appreciate any help where available!
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Re: 2006 Kappa 40 Manuals
You can buy the manual from Scott & Sargent: ?
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On Aug 14, 2024, at 8:57?AM, jamesscullin via groups.io <jamesscullin@...> wrote:
Hello all,
New to the group and the Felder/ Format brands.?
I am picking up a new to me 2006 Kappa 40 with the motorized height and tild adjustments this weekend and am looking to get more information about the saw. Things like a parts manual, wiring schematic, and adjustment/ calibration instructions if anyone happens to still have any of that information.?
The DRO screens do not illuminate, but the hight and tilt on the saw does work, hence the need for the manuals to assist in troubleshooting.?
Appreciate any help where available!
|
Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
You need to lubricate the jack rod anywhere it rotates inside another piece with something like oil or WD40.? My stock FAT300S performed very poorly until I did this (it would be difficult to pump and would squeak like crazy if it had anything more than 150 lbs).? After WD40, it was very easy to "pump the height" even with a couple hundred pounds.
?
?
?
-Aaron
|
Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
I have to south worths One 4x 6 x 7¡± to 36¡± at least 4000# on wheels with 3 wheel lift One 5x8 x 15¡± to 84¡± 6000# Both push afoot medal? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 14, 2024, at 10:28?AM, David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Hi JP,?
?
I have a Felder FAT 500S. When loaded with a few hundred pounds of material, it does take some effort to lift.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
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Hi JP,?
?
I have a Felder FAT 500S. When loaded with a few hundred pounds of material, it does take some effort to lift.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Felder FAT 300S vs 500S
Hi JP,?
?
I have a Felder FAT 500S. When loaded with a few hundred pounds of material, it does take some effort to lift.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Hello all,
New to the group and the Felder/ Format brands.?
I am picking up a new to me 2006 Kappa 40 with the motorized height and tild adjustments this weekend and am looking to get more information about the saw. Things like a parts manual, wiring schematic, and adjustment/ calibration instructions if anyone happens to still have any of that information.?
The DRO screens do not illuminate, but the hight and tilt on the saw does work, hence the need for the manuals to assist in troubleshooting.?
Appreciate any help where available!
|
David P. Best
JP Rice
imran
Tom Gensmer