US source for window scantlings
I am interested in making some replacement windows for our 1930's stone cottage. The current windows are simple pine frames that are too warped to repair. Does anyone have a source in the US for laminated window scantlings?
|
Re: Improvements to Kreg Bench Clamp
|
I am flying to IWF on Wednesday and will be at the show Thursday & Friday.
Is there anything special worth checking?
?
?
|
Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
Not diamond coating, they are industrial diamond teeth.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Friday, August 2, 2024 at 07:16:25 PM MST, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
Bigger blade lower rpm , less teeth give larger gullet easier for chips to escape to dust collection and most important keep blade cool . Can¡¯t imagine the diamond coating is good for nateral wood , snake oil if you ask me I¡¯ll use my diamond for cleaning grinder wheels and sharpening carbide. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
On Jul 31, 2024, at 3:38?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? This has been my experience as well. But test the blade as soon as you get it and send it back if it¡¯s leaving saw marks. Felder includes this instruction in the saw package.? On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 4:28?PM Richard Csizmazia via <richard.csizmazia= [email protected]> wrote: I have the AKE version and it cuts super smooth with 4500rpm on my K945s. The funny thing what i've noticed is I've done a cut what may have been a little too much for this blade (8cm thick european oak) and since then the sound changed a bit and some whiny sound got introduced but man it leave a surface like after sanding on end grain. Its worth every penny in my view. I've got it from a german reseller what was even cheaper then sautershop. The important part is to pick up the right riving knife for it!
|
Re: Improvements to Kreg Bench Clamp
Excellent work! If your up for making a few more I'll buy some off of you! I didn't have any machining equipment yet.
|
Improvements to Kreg Bench Clamp
I was tooling up a new-to-me BF6 this past spring and nearly made the mistake of buying the Felder eccentric clamp. Fortunately I read reviews on here before I pulled the trigger, and based on past discussion I opted to buy two of the Kreg 6" self-adjusting bench clamps instead.
?
?
They were better than nothing, but left me frustrated in two ways:
?
(1) The 'foot' of the clamp was almost the same size as my T-slot and kept trying to align itself along the T-slot whenever the clamp was positioned within ~15¡ã of parallel to the slot. When it did this, the little plastic sole that protects the table from the steel body of the clamp would fit completely inside the slot, leaving the clamp to scratch/dent the soft anodized aluminum table of my machine.
?
(2) The gray clamping pad itself¡ªthough made of UHMW polyethylene, a material known to be relatively slippery¡ªstill caused the part being clamped to slide around on the table as the clamp tightened, making it hard to create accurate setups. My perfect clamp pad would be very low-friction to avoid this behavior, relying instead on the friction between table and workpiece to keep the wood where I want it.
?
I fixed these problems by modifying my clamps:
?
?
(1) I peeled off the plastic sole and machined a larger brass foot that can span the T-slot in any orientation. I drilled and tapped an additional hole into the clamp body to bolt the brass pad on. The brass is softer than the anodized surface of the aluminum table and is unlikely to scratch the anodizing on its own during normal use. Four months in my table still looks great with no signs of marring.
?
(2) I've had a little piece of Teflon in my stock drawer for years and it was just the right size to make some super-slippery clamping pads. Again I drilled and tapped the clamp to attach the pads and left the screw heads counterbored deep below the surface of the pad in case I accidentally cut into the pad in the future. These pads almost always slip on the wood before the wood slips on the table. The pads ended up about 14mm tall and have straight sides. I have found these very useful on the shaper, where I can use the pair of clamps as a quick-and-dirty outboard fence of sorts, or to help prevent long workpieces from wandering too much as the feeder starts to grip the workpiece.
?
?
I also made some special T-nuts to allow the clamps to drop right in. I believe I stole that idea from a member here. I made six of them so that there's usually one already close to where I need it when building a setup.? I drilled a hole down the centerline of the grub screws that keep them in place in the T-slot and pressed in some little brass bits to make them non-marring so as to protect the bottom of the T-slot too. Also replaced stock grub screws on the factory T-nuts while I was at it.?
?
?
Might be a nice little weekend project for anybody else who has machine tools at home.
|
I have this cheap delta drill. I use for secondary operations for a few items and I like to have x y movement.
Always throwing down the line holes, so I came up with a simple solution.
Yeah, it¡¯s mostly for metalwork.
2 ground welding clamps vise mounted to sub plate and mag spaced to work or float.
not like my thompson xy tables but works on the cheep
mac,,
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I second using grout floats as they are perfect for the job...I use the Goldblatt grout floats for epoxy.
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I went to the plaster dept. in the big box store and bought a couple of plasterers floats. They are inexpensive and last much longer the stuff sold to woodworkers.
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
This material works well. Unfortunately, I forgot what it is. Maybe somebody recognizes it. 
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I took the lazy route. Just attached sandpaper with contact cement to the old foam on my push block.
Sal
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I keep a resin bag at jointer . Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 2, 2024, at 8:24?PM, Rich M. via groups.io <rmarkiewicz@...> wrote:
? Another vote for MicroJig push blocks.? They're great.?
|
Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
Bigger blade lower rpm , less teeth give larger gullet easier for chips to escape to dust collection and most important keep blade cool . Can¡¯t imagine the diamond coating is good for nateral wood , snake oil if you ask me I¡¯ll use my diamond for cleaning grinder wheels and sharpening carbide. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 31, 2024, at 3:38?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? This has been my experience as well. But test the blade as soon as you get it and send it back if it¡¯s leaving saw marks. Felder includes this instruction in the saw package.? On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 4:28?PM Richard Csizmazia via <richard.csizmazia= [email protected]> wrote: I have the AKE version and it cuts super smooth with 4500rpm on my K945s. The funny thing what i've noticed is I've done a cut what may have been a little too much for this blade (8cm thick european oak) and since then the sound changed a bit and some whiny sound got introduced but man it leave a surface like after sanding on end grain. Its worth every penny in my view. I've got it from a german reseller what was even cheaper then sautershop. The important part is to pick up the right riving knife for it!
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
Another vote for MicroJig push blocks.? They're great.?
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I use wooden concrete floats and glue on a little ledge at one end. ?They last years.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 2, 2024, at 2:34?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? As usual, my mail loads slow. Mine looks exactly like what David B shared. So concrete float not grout float.
On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:29?PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I picked up couple of grout floats and they work great for me. You can test them on the lumber at the box store. They are bigger than typical push blocks made for jointers.
On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:17?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Also should add I've like these products as well, from before we converted to slider saws-?
On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 3:16?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Make blocks you like out of wood scraps. spray glue some 120 or 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom.
Or go pre-made and buy the drywall sanding blocks at your local home supply store, usually pre-backed with a foam rubber platen and you might even find the fine mesh abrasives adequate and easily replaced if the platen alone isn't good enough.
I have a pair of Bench Dog push blocks I use with my jointer and I like them a lot. The foam pad no longer grips.? They are. I longer available so I need to either replace with a suitable foam or get new blocks.? Does anyone have a foam they have used or a strong recommendation on a different push block?? I drop them off the jointer often so they need to be very durable.
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
One of my boys gave me a pair of the MicroJig push blocks. I had always thought the MicroJig products were unnecessarily elaborate, but I actually love them. The little automatic drop-down hooks are really effective.
My wife calls me ¡°Gadget Guy¡±, and she is spot on!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
As usual, my mail loads slow. Mine looks exactly like what David B shared. So concrete float not grout float.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:29?PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? I picked up couple of grout floats and they work great for me. You can test them on the lumber at the box store. They are bigger than typical push blocks made for jointers.
On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:17?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Also should add I've like these products as well, from before we converted to slider saws-?
On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 3:16?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Make blocks you like out of wood scraps. spray glue some 120 or 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom.
Or go pre-made and buy the drywall sanding blocks at your local home supply store, usually pre-backed with a foam rubber platen and you might even find the fine mesh abrasives adequate and easily replaced if the platen alone isn't good enough.
I have a pair of Bench Dog push blocks I use with my jointer and I like them a lot. The foam pad no longer grips.? They are. I longer available so I need to either replace with a suitable foam or get new blocks.? Does anyone have a foam they have used or a strong recommendation on a different push block?? I drop them off the jointer often so they need to be very durable.
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
follow up to my own issue.?
I finally had a little time to investigate.?
My riving knife is the AKE knife sold by sauntershop. It¡¯s 1.9mm vs the felder 2.0 mm for the same blade.?
I checked the position of the riving knife and it was asymmetrically, albeit slightly, skewed to one side of the blade.?
I briefly adjusted this to make it more centered, with equal positioning, and my own cut marks definitely improved. Though still not planer quality. It¡¯s more manageable presently until I have more time to do a deeper dive and check runout and evaluate the blade better.?
?
Definitely passable for my own enthusiast needs?
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I picked up couple of grout floats and they work great for me. You can test them on the lumber at the box store. They are bigger than typical push blocks made for jointers.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:17?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Also should add I've like these products as well, from before we converted to slider saws-?
On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 3:16?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Make blocks you like out of wood scraps. spray glue some 120 or 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom.
Or go pre-made and buy the drywall sanding blocks at your local home supply store, usually pre-backed with a foam rubber platen and you might even find the fine mesh abrasives adequate and easily replaced if the platen alone isn't good enough.
I have a pair of Bench Dog push blocks I use with my jointer and I like them a lot. The foam pad no longer grips.? They are. I longer available so I need to either replace with a suitable foam or get new blocks.? Does anyone have a foam they have used or a strong recommendation on a different push block?? I drop them off the jointer often so they need to be very durable.
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
Also should add I've like these products as well, from before we converted to slider saws-?
On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 3:16?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Make blocks you like out of wood scraps. spray glue some 120 or 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom.
Or go pre-made and buy the drywall sanding blocks at your local home supply store, usually pre-backed with a foam rubber platen and you might even find the fine mesh abrasives adequate and easily replaced if the platen alone isn't good enough.
I have a pair of Bench Dog push blocks I use with my jointer and I like them a lot. The foam pad no longer grips.? They are. I longer available so I need to either replace with a suitable foam or get new blocks.? Does anyone have a foam they have used or a strong recommendation on a different push block?? I drop them off the jointer often so they need to be very durable.
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Leemstradamus
Mike
imran