Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
@John Hinman: John, that looks like a sturdy storage solution. My mechanical engineer brain has one question. You mention that the weight goes to the floor and that you only use one screw in the top. Is there a foot on the bottom to support the over-turning moment (torque) on the assembly? I'm afraid that if it's just a post on the floor that top screw is doing a lot of work to keep the shelving from coming down on you.?
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Looking at the manuals, the "Simple" model is significantly smaller in size compared to the "Enterprise" model:
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7HP Simple: 17 9/16¡± x 12 5/16¡± x 6 5/16¡±
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7HP Enterprise: ?25 7/16¡± x 17 1/4" x 7 3/8¡±
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Looking at an internal diagram where Enterprise is on top and Simple on bottom, it appears that we have capacitors in the main AC-to-DC power supply on the left.? However, only the Enterprise has capacitors on the upper right for the board that drives the third leg.? The Simple model also does not appear to have any forced air cooling inside the unit.?? On the Enterprise, the big rectangle section in the middle is a forced air cooling area that aids with the other case fans.? I believe the Simple model just does not have room inside the case to put output run capacitors or cooling.
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This could indicate that the "Simple" model does not have enough grunt to drive multiple motors or start a secondary motor while driving the first motor.?? In any event, I suspect the Simple model will not perform as well as Enterprise.
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-Aaron
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Michael,
Thank you for sharing this. I will mull over this when I am back home. What is the motor size in your machine?
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Thank you for all your responses.?
My take is the PP sales team has been blowing hot air into the phone. One sales guy told me that that the 7.5 PP Simple has been discontinued but that is not true. Another said that the?software?on the simple line can¡¯t handle two motors at once. I¡¯ve only heard good things about phase perfect so I have to assume their service tech team is more reliable than sales. It honestly makes me want to re-consider buying from them.?
To answer an initial question, I am a business but don't rely on these machines like a full time cabinet shop does. We timber frame, build about one custom house a year and do occasional architectural woodwork and cabinetry as it comes.?
Re: Breaking I'm with Imran. I¡¯ve heard this can be an issue with regenerative breaking that sends power back to the grid. I know this is utilized on large industrial machines but certainly not my old Felder.
Cheers,? _____________________________________________
P?aul Denison | Porchlight Woodworks Chimacum, WA
On Fri, Jul 19, 2024 at 3:15 PM, imranindiana < imranindiana@...> wrote: The brake has been mentioned here before but I do not see any impact of braking on the PP. During braking, motor is disconnected from PP but the brake board is using power to create DC for braking, which is not power intensive. So should be a non-issue. Does anyone see how braking can affect PP?
On Jul 19, 2024, at 6:02?PM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
? Phase Perfect discouraged me from using the Simple version because it would not accommodate the brake and other electronics of the saw I recently ordered. It did bump the price by about a $1,400.
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I¡¯m still waiting on an electrician to install it.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Gerry,
I¡¯m glad you got your electrical issues resolved. ?I remember speaking to you at length about all this several months back.
So some comments your other topics as follows: ?https://flic.kr/s/aHskkF1CTX
I have owned the Northstate Widebelt sander you have for over 20 years now and gotten great service out of it. ?I even posted some videos a long time back on how to adjust the belt tracking, and you¡¯ll find some posts in the archive about the platen and how to replace the graphite cloth. ?The snipe issue you are having is the result of the board coming free from the downfeed pressure roller on the infeed side as the board finishes the final 4-inches of travel. ?There are three things you can do to reduce and often eliminate trailing edge snipe:
- The simplest method to reduce trailing snipe is to manually pull up on the board existing the machine while the last 6-inchs or so of material is being sanded. ?This will help the board not teeter-totter downward on the outfeed side which pushes the board up on the infeed side which creates the snipe. ?Just pull up slightly on the board exiting the machine and you¡¯ll see a marked difference.
- Increase the use of the platen to push the sanding belt down into the board rather than leaving the rubber drive drum to do that work.
- Adjust the position of the infeed pressure roller so that it doesn¡¯t push as hard - this is a tedious adjustment but not rocket science. ?I¡¯m attaching the user manual for your sander in case you don¡¯t have one. ?Page 15 details the pressure roller setup, and its parts #15 which are responsible for the positing of the feed roller relative to the bed under the tracking belt. ?You have to disassemble the roller assembly and rotate the position of #15 180¡ã at a time to adjust their height. ?This is your chance to go fishing agin if you want.
I second the idea of double-stick tape on a carrier board (sled) for your thin short pieces. ?I do this a lot on the Northstate Widebelt especially when using a sled to carry the material. ?Carpet tape is aggressive but thick, and this one might be thinner - I haven¡¯t measured the difference but it¡¯s what I use for this application and to hold drawer fronts in position when drilling for pulls:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QDL9GK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2
Your thickness planer is producing snipe on the trailing end for the same reason your widebelt is doing it - poorly adjust feed rollers ?You can reduce the snipe by adjusting the feed rollers, but this job (which I¡¯ve done a few times) is really left to a Felder technician - it requires 12¡± long fingers and a bunch of precision height measurement tools. ?I routinely thickness softwoods to 3mm with my Dual 51 without issue, but I equipped the machine with rubber in- and outfeed rollers with this thin material need in mind (harpsichord soundboards). ?I have also seen the DeWalt lunchbox planer equipped with 3rd party feed rollers which reduces snipe for a couple of luthiers who face this issue all the time.
Hope this helps.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 19, 2024, at 12:42?PM, Gerry Kmack via groups.io <gerry.kmack@...> wrote:
Hi John,
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I have a wide belt sander, and it is invaluable to me for certain tasks (like flattening an end grain cutting board). For some reason, though, I get snipe from the WBS, when I run thin short strips of wood through it.
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Can anyone with a WBS comment on this? Possibly my WBS needs adjustment? Anyone have any experience setting up a North State (it's actually identical to a Jet WBS) sander?
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Gerry
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The switches actually go the same way in both hemispheres. It is just the perspective of the user that is different.?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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That is because electrons travel down in southern hemisphere and up in northern hemisphere.
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On Jul 19, 2024, at 6:52?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> wrote: ?
Haha! Love it John!
Except that it is the opposite in Australia:
Switch down = lights on. Switch up = lights off.
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Interaction of load and supply is way over my head.
¡°Switch up ==> lights on. Switch down ==> lights off.¡±
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Haha! Love it John!
Except that it is the opposite in Australia:
Switch down = lights on. Switch up = lights off.
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?
?
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Interaction of load and supply is way over my head.
¡°Switch up ==> lights on. Switch down ==> lights off.¡±
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Interaction of load and supply is way over my head.
¡°Switch up ==> lights on. Switch down ==> lights off.¡±
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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The power company appreciates?our?business certainly. Thank goodness for VFDs limiting startup current so?we still stay under the demand charge tiers. The 110v drum sander, by comparison, is not a problem and sometimes impossible to tell it's running so silently until the conveyor is feeding.?
On Fri, Jul 19, 2024 at 3:06?PM David Davies via <myfinishingtouch= [email protected]> wrote: 100 hp?? Does it have a direct connection to your checking account to pay for the electricity when you tun it on? Dave Davies
On Fri, Jul 19, 2024 at 2:55?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Gerry,?
On my AD941, I don't like most wood species thinner than 4mm. I can carefully sometimes get to 2mm. I have tried mounting thin stuff to backer boards but it never felt right. However, a drum sander is my preference because it isn't capable of tearout and puts positive pressure on the whole way through. I like my WBS but it's 100hp and my drum sander is 110v and on wheels right where I'm working for quick calibrations. Another mention here for reasons why a high quality bandsaw setup pay off - usually I can thickness by bandsaw within 1-2mm, so the next steps require are more final fine-tuning steps.
Also I will happily sand off veneer, contaminated rocky/dirty wood faces, and glue crusty? surfaces through the sanders and I would?avoid doing those at all costs on the planer to save the integrity?of the knives, if that's ever a consideration.
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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I have a single-phase machine that I run on a 100% off-grid
system.? I'm not sure exactly what the brake does to its upstream
source, but I can tell you it definitely has some interactions
with power electronics.? I have a pair of 6000 watt inverters.? I
can start and run the saw with only one inverter active, but if I
don't have both on, I can trip the whole system when I go to stop
it.? I've considered disabling the brake because of this.
I'd get the bigger unit.
On 7/19/2024 3:15 PM, imranindiana via
groups.io wrote:
The brake has been mentioned here before but I do not see any
impact of braking on the PP. During braking, motor is disconnected
from PP but the brake board is using power to create DC for
braking, which is not power intensive. So should be a non-issue.
Does anyone see how braking can affect PP?
?
Phase Perfect discouraged me from using the Simple
version because it would not accommodate the brake and other
electronics of the saw I recently ordered. It did bump the
price by about a $1,400.
?
I¡¯m still waiting on an electrician to install it.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
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The brake has been mentioned here before but I do not see any impact of braking on the PP. During braking, motor is disconnected from PP but the brake board is using power to create DC for braking, which is not power intensive. So should be a non-issue. Does anyone see how braking can affect PP?
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On Jul 19, 2024, at 6:02?PM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote: ? Phase Perfect discouraged me from using the Simple version because it would not accommodate the brake and other electronics of the saw I recently ordered. It did bump the price by about a $1,400.
?
I¡¯m still waiting on an electrician to install it.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Phase Perfect discouraged me from using the Simple version because it would not accommodate the brake and other electronics of the saw I recently ordered. It did bump the price by about a $1,400.
?
I¡¯m still waiting on an electrician to install it.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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I also though about getting the Phase perfect simple.
I spoke with them and they told me that the basic one doesn't support the electronic break that the saw has.
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Eventually I went with the PTE010 (although the PTE007 would have been sufficient) and I am glad I did. After getting the first 3phase machine, I got additional machine that exceed the PTE007
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Hi Paul,
I agree with Brian. I have the older unit which definitely is over designed. ?Talk to someone higher up at PP.
Meanwhile to prepare yourself, add up the KW of all 3 motors and convert to HP (multiply by 1.34).
Looks like you are a business. If your usage of this machine is high I would further multiply the number by 1.1 minimum (1.2 even better). If this number is 7.5HP or less, in general, you should be fine. The multiplier (1.1 or 1.2) will increase the life of the unit by not running it at limit and at higher temps. If the shop has A/C set to 70F that is a big plus and you can use the lower multiplier. If they still suggest the enterprise unit ask them why 10% or 20% margin is not sufficient.
If you are a hobbyist or the machine usage is low, in general, you should be able to use the 7.5 HP unit with a 7.5 HP load.
They may be concerned about in-rush current. Scoring and PF will be turned on after the saw is already on, so the in-rush current will not be simultaneous. PP models have a decent spec for handling the in-rush current.
Do let them know if the shop has AC. My shop can get to 90F on worst days and the 20F delta is significant.
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On Jul 19, 2024, at 2:52?PM, Paul.H.Denison via groups.io <Paul.H.Denison@...> wrote: ? Hi All, I need to replace the 3P rotary converter that runs my BF7-41 combination saw/sharper/plainer/jointer. The plate lists it at 4Kw and 14.5A. I have been planning on purchasing the 7.5HP 26A Phase Perfect Simple but the PP sales rep just told me that the 'Simple' line it is not rated to run two motors at the same time. I will be running a scoring blade with the saw and the power feed with the saw and sharper. If I jump up to their enterprise line I'm look at spending an additional 2K+.
Its hard for me to believe that a PhasePerfect Simple would not be able to sufficiently run a machine that was built in 1999 as long as it sits comfortably within the load rating.
Anyone have any personal experience with this?
_____________________________________________
P?aul Denison | Porchlight Woodworks Chimacum, WA
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Re: Give a Man A Fish..... (Felder Customer Service report)
Teach a man to fish and he will lay around drinking beer and loafing all day.?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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100 hp?? Does it have a direct connection to your checking account to pay for the electricity when you tun it on? Dave Davies
On Fri, Jul 19, 2024 at 2:55?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Gerry,?
On my AD941, I don't like most wood species thinner than 4mm. I can carefully sometimes get to 2mm. I have tried mounting thin stuff to backer boards but it never felt right. However, a drum sander is my preference because it isn't capable of tearout and puts positive pressure on the whole way through. I like my WBS but it's 100hp and my drum sander is 110v and on wheels right where I'm working for quick calibrations. Another mention here for reasons why a high quality bandsaw setup pay off - usually I can thickness by bandsaw within 1-2mm, so the next steps require are more final fine-tuning steps.
Also I will happily sand off veneer, contaminated rocky/dirty wood faces, and glue crusty? surfaces through the sanders and I would?avoid doing those at all costs on the planer to save the integrity?of the knives, if that's ever a consideration.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Give a Man A Fish..... (Felder Customer Service report)
Great story and conclusion. Read like a good murder mystery!
Philip Davidson
--
Philip
davidsonukuleles.com
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Gerry,?
On my AD941, I don't like most wood species thinner than 4mm. I can carefully sometimes get to 2mm. I have tried mounting thin stuff to backer boards but it never felt right. However, a drum sander is my preference because it isn't capable of tearout and puts positive pressure on the whole way through. I like my WBS but it's 100hp and my drum sander is 110v and on wheels right where I'm working for quick calibrations. Another mention here for reasons why a high quality bandsaw setup pay off - usually I can thickness by bandsaw within 1-2mm, so the next steps require are more final fine-tuning steps.
Also I will happily sand off veneer, contaminated rocky/dirty wood faces, and glue crusty? surfaces through the sanders and I would?avoid doing those at all costs on the planer to save the integrity?of the knives, if that's ever a consideration.
|
Hi John,
?
I have a wide belt sander, and it is invaluable to me for certain tasks (like flattening an end grain cutting board). For some reason, though, I get snipe from the WBS, when I run thin short strips of wood through it.
?
Can anyone with a WBS comment on this? Possibly my WBS needs adjustment? Anyone have any experience setting up a North State (it's actually identical to a Jet WBS) sander?
?
Gerry
|
imran
David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer
Gerry Kmack