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Re: Thin, precise boards
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWhy can¡¯t you mill a long board at 0.4¡± and then cut it into shorter pieces? Should not be an issue. I have done 1/2¡± on dual 51.Imran Malik On Jul 19, 2024, at 12:46?PM, Gerry Kmack via groups.io <gerry.kmack@...> wrote:
? Fellow FOGers:
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My work frequently requires me to produce precise, small parts. Several years ago, in response to a related post on this forum, I was told about the "Fritz & Franz" jig.? This simple but ingenious jig has worked well for me when crosscutting all sorts of small parts.? However, it does not solve the problems related to milling short (~10" long) thin (~.4" thick) boards accurately and without snipe (or worse) defects.
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I have attempted to build several planer sleds (found on YouTube), but nothing has really worked well - a high percentage of the boards milled this way still ended up with snipe, or worse (deep gouges etc). FWIW, I regularly clean and wax the cast iron table - this helps enormously on thicker pieces, but does not resolve my problems with thin (<.5" thick) boards.
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My shop is reasonably well-equipped: I have a Felder CF741P (combination machine) so: Joiner/Planer/Sliding Tablesaw & Shaper all good quality. Also a Laguna 16HD bandsaw, which is a truly great saw, also a North State open ended wide belt sander - along with other stuff, but these three are the primary tools that I have attempted to use to produce the precise, thin boards that my projects often require. All, so far, with limited success...
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I am about to begin a new build which requires (24) hard maple boards each measuring 9.925" x 1.30" x .40".? Before I get started, I was hoping to get advice from this group about this problem.?
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Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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Gerry Kmack
Kmack Studios / Cave Creek Woodworks
KmackStudios.com
Pagosa Springs, CO
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Thin, precise boards
Fellow FOGers:
?
My work frequently requires me to produce precise, small parts. Several years ago, in response to a related post on this forum, I was told about the "Fritz & Franz" jig.? This simple but ingenious jig has worked well for me when crosscutting all sorts of small parts.? However, it does not solve the problems related to milling short (~10" long) thin (~.4" thick) boards accurately and without snipe (or worse) defects.
?
I have attempted to build several planer sleds (found on YouTube), but nothing has really worked well - a high percentage of the boards milled this way still ended up with snipe, or worse (deep gouges etc). FWIW, I regularly clean and wax the cast iron table - this helps enormously on thicker pieces, but does not resolve my problems with thin (<.5" thick) boards.
?
My shop is reasonably well-equipped: I have a Felder CF741P (combination machine) so: Joiner/Planer/Sliding Tablesaw & Shaper all good quality. Also a Laguna 16HD bandsaw, which is a truly great saw, also a North State open ended wide belt sander - along with other stuff, but these three are the primary tools that I have attempted to use to produce the precise, thin boards that my projects often require. All, so far, with limited success...
?
I am about to begin a new build which requires (24) hard maple boards each measuring 9.925" x 1.30" x .40".? Before I get started, I was hoping to get advice from this group about this problem.?
?
Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
?
Gerry Kmack
Kmack Studios / Cave Creek Woodworks
KmackStudios.com
Pagosa Springs, CO |
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Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
I have made shelving for lumber and for other material several times. I mill 2x4 spacers to a consistent thickness, straighten one edge, and laminate them between 1x4 sides. I make the horizontals out of 2x4 also.?
Assemble on a flat surface, so the spacers are in a straight line. Use the horizontals to keep the mortices the correct dimension. Glue and screw the 1x4s to the 2x4. The weight goes to the floor, and a single screw at the top of the post keeps the post upright. The horizontals are a sliding fit into the posts, so they can be moved around to accommodate your storage.
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The 1x4 sides do not need to be straight. Keeping the internal 2x4 consistent and aligned is important.
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There is not much on the shelves in this photo, but other areas have been really loaded up. I can stand on the end of the horizontals and they do not budge.
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For lighter storage I use 1x4 for the internal spacers. Sometimes I taper the horizontals.
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I put the shelves too far apart vertically in the installation in this photo. Sooner or later I¡¯ll replace it.
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John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941 |
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Re: Air lines distribution
I used 1/2" pex to get from my compressor on the south side of my shop to the slider on the north.? The shop is wood frame and I ran the pex from the compressor into the wall cavity to the attic and back down the wall cavity on the other side of the shop.? Used the termination block below face mounted to both walls and a hose from block to Mac's regulator.? For those (few) of us who prefer their electrical and plumbing behind the drywall.? ?$10 for the aluminum termination block at home depot.?? On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 1:36?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
I have been thinking a car lift system could be modified to work for high density storage.? Each level lays on a piece of plywood or frame with spacers attached below.? Swing the arms in just above the level you want access to.? Lift the load a couple of inches or just enough to slide out what you want.? Build a solid roof over and curtain sides or open up your existing shed sides.? Trimming high value lumber to 112" makes me sad.?
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There are lots of styles.? Some are even portable.
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Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
Good find on all the timber PK.??
A friend builds little storage areas around their garden.? Racking constructed with 4 x 2s and have tin sides and top.? The ends are open.? They have a big garden and all these storage areas are not seen (unless you are really looking for them!) Good luck
Cheers, David
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Re: Air lines distribution
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýNetanel,?I assume you are asking me. All 3 machines have pressure regulators. The hose reel is at compressor pressure. The compressor sits under rip extension of K975 saw and I cannot see the dial of the pressure gauge. So when using a nail gun with hose reel, it is a pain to adjust pressure. My long term plan is to add a manifold (with pressure regulator) for distribution on the wall. Imran Malik On Jul 16, 2024, at 2:36?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
? The California air system is what I currently have. Getting another one like that is also an interesting idea.
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Do you have secondary regulator on each machines?
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imran
Gerry Kmack
Mike
Jonathan Smith
Then I got mini WBS and K975 so I needed a distribution system. If you want to break all the rules, this was done in few hrs and has been in service for 4 yrs hobby use. It supports 2 machines with clamps, ceiling hung hose reel and WBS.
Imran Malik
On Jul 16, 2024, at 1:12?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
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I use rapidaire maxline 3/4 with their fittings to run lines from a 5hp vertical compressor.? I use this system to distribute to my cnc which has an auto tool changer, and to various drops. The system has a neat drop feature that allows you to put drop stations wherever you need.?
The tubing is Pex-AL which is rated for pressure and so far it¡¯s worked flawlessly. The drop stations are great for quickly hooking up tools and for draining condensation.?
I think however a system of this size might be a bit of overkill for Macs clamps and some dust blowing but once you have it in place you might find more utility for it.?
The one gripe I have is that the tubing is semi flexible and getting the pipe straight takes a lot of time and still looks a little less than straight in some areas - the upside is that you can just bend it to make angles and corners.?
Andy?
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 12:52?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal=[email protected]> wrote:
So far I only use my air compressor for small things like pin nailer and blowing dust.I ordered mac clamps and I need to distribute air across my shop.I wonder if you have any recommendations on air hoses/manifolds/fittings?