Hi Noah,
If you can pay handsomely, just have Felder come out and do a calibration on the machine.? I've been pleased with the skill of their techs, and I always learn something when they come out.
|
Hi, send me a pm please
Regards, Rod
|
It looks like people use a wide variety of methods to manage particulate matter suspended in the air in their shops. ?The particulates that are the most hazardous are nearly invisible to the naked eye. ?They are light and stay suspended in the air for extended periods of time. ?Exposure hazard is determined by the amount of particulates in the air coupled with the duration of exposure. ?Because the lungs cannot expel all of these particulates, exposure is cumulative. ?All of us will have varying tolerances to exposure to these particulates.
I look at this issue kind of like the difference of a wood shop teacher vs the student. ?In a school wood shop without good air quality management, the student might be exposed to an excessive amount of of fine dust for 45 minutes per day for a semester, and maybe multiple semesters during school. ?The shop teacher, on the other hand hand is exposed to the same levels all day long, every day. ?The cumulative exposure is very different.
We are no different. ?Some of us have occasional shop exposure, while others spend much more time in out shops. ?Minimal exposure can be managed with good quality dust masks for very little expense while enduring a bit of discomfort. ?I spend at least part of almost every day in my shop, and don¡¯t want to wear a mask every time I work in the shop. ?So I have invested in the usual cyclone dust extraction equipment for the typical equipment. ?I have also installed a JET AFS-2000 air filtration system hanging from the ceiling, ?It is controlled automatically by the air quality sensor that is part of my Grit Automation system that operates my dust extractor and blast gates.
I have also changed the way I deal with ¡°dust¡± and chips on the floor. ?I no longer sweep. ?I found that when I sweep, I stir up enough dust to trigger the air quality sensor that starts my air filtration system. ?Obviously, sweeping puts me at the source of the dust clout that I can¡¯t even see. ?So, now I use my shop vac with a HEPA filter to clean the shop floor.
Other activities that trigger the air quality sensor are extended use of the bandsaws, router operations and similar tool operations that have poor dust collection. ?For these operations, I wear a quality dust mask until the air filter system turns off.?
Arguably the best investment in air quality improvement was purchase and use of high quality sanding tools that incorporate the Festool shop vacuum. ?Use of the Festool sanders and 3M sander with the Festool vacuum, even for extended periods of time, right underneath the air quality sensor, never trigger the sensor.
So, short answer is I do think the shop air filtration systems are a good investment, especially if one is going to spend a lot of time in the shop. ?But like so many things, it is a wasted investment if it is purchased and not used effectively. ?Coupling the air filtration system with an air quality sensor that manages the system will insure it is used when needed.
Best of luck,
Alex B.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 26, 2024, at 3:09?AM, richard.csizmazia@... wrote:
Hello Everyone,
Are you aware of this device?
There seem to be a similar offering in the similar price range from other vendors as well (scm, jet, etc) and I was wondering if this device makes any sense or if anyone has any experience with it?
Many thanks,
Rich
|
Several yeas ago I purchased a Dri-Eaz HEPA air scrubber for use on-site in customer's homes when performing particularly nasty work such as plaster demolition. It doesn't see much use these days, but I have occasionally brought it into the Shop if I anticipate producing really high volumes of fine particulates which might exceed what my RL-160 can collect.?
?
I will say that the nice thing about the Dri-Eaz style of air scrubber is that they're designed for portability and rough handling (often in the storm/water/fire/mold remediation industry), so you have the flexibility to use it elsewhere in addition to your Shop.?
Filtration is three stage, with two low-cost, disposable "furnace filters" in increasing levels of filtration, and the third is a HEPA filter.?
I have the Dri-Eaz 500, at low speed you can barely hear it, at max speed it's comparable to something like a Festool CT vac, but the sound would be immediately drowned out as soon as you turn on a machine and/or central dust extractor.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
FWIW, I bought a whole house squirrel cage blower for $20, 20 yrs ago. Built a plywood box, 2¡¯x2¡¯x4¡¯ long. There are 3 stages of filters all are 2¡¯x2¡¯. First is a cheap furnace filter, 2nd is 4¡± deep pleated filter and third is 18¡¯ deep pleated filter of high MERV rating. When I do mess up, like forget to turn collector on or do router work, I turn it on and it makes quick work of the visible dust in the air. I have it on a timer switch so it turns off automatically.
I have thought about incorporating a dylos meter so it turns on/off automatically but it has taken a back seat so far. Michael¡¯s comment of indoor air quality has made me think about working on it. Will see.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 26, 2024, at 3:10?PM, richard.csizmazia via groups.io <richard.csizmazia@...> wrote: ?I quite like this new machine also, I may gonna pull the plug on this rather! Thank you!
|
I quite like this new machine also, I may gonna pull the plug on this rather! Thank you!
|
This is excellent feedback, thanks so much for taking the time!
|
Re: AD741 5.017 planer roller not engaging at high speed setting
More than likely, you¡¯ve left your wheel engaged when not using the planer.?
Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 26, 2024, at 8:25?AM, Bill D via groups.io <4sailing@...> wrote:
?My planner is not engaging / slipping at higher speed setting.? ? I noticed this after maybe setting my depth of cut a little too deep on a wide board (my mistake). I took off the back panel and engaged the high speed setting (unit unplugged).? When I manually turned the center wheel (see pic),? I noticed the yellow "tire" would slip at a certain sections.? ?When inspecting the wheel further, I could see the yellow tire was thinner at the section where it slipped. I'm thinking the best solution would be to replace the yellow tire (like on a band saw), but it appears to be cemented to the wheel.? Has anyone had a similar issue and if so were you able to purchase the yellow tire /or entire wheel assembly from felder and how difficult was it to install - or should I try adjusting the location of the drive cylinder (on lower right) and if so and any suggestions as to accomplish that? And I now know why it's recommended to keep the drive in neutral when not in use to avoid flat spots on the wheel/tire ! Thanks for suggestions! Bill <IMG_5113_1_.JPG>
|
AD741 5.017 planer roller not engaging at high speed setting
My planner is not engaging / slipping at higher speed setting.? ? I noticed this after maybe setting my depth of cut a little too deep on a wide board (my mistake). I took off the back panel and engaged the high speed setting (unit unplugged).? When I manually turned the center wheel (see pic),? I noticed the yellow "tire" would slip at a certain sections.? ?When inspecting the wheel further, I could see the yellow tire was thinner at the section where it slipped. I'm thinking the best solution would be to replace the yellow tire (like on a band saw), but it appears to be cemented to the wheel.? Has anyone had a similar issue and if so were you able to purchase the yellow tire /or entire wheel assembly from felder and how difficult was it to install - or should I try adjusting the location of the drive cylinder (on lower right) and if so and any suggestions as to accomplish that? And I now know why it's recommended to keep the drive in neutral when not in use to avoid flat spots on the wheel/tire ! Thanks for suggestions! Bill 
|
Here is my experience and viewpoint.
I purchased a Dylos?DC1100 Pro Air Quality Monitor a few years ago when I was troubleshooting a fireplace that wasn¡¯t drawing well. I did some research including talking to a professional contact who is in the air quality business. I eventually bought a second one, which can be handy to double check readings. (I had to send one back for repair, which was fast and cheap; good service.) I run one in my woodshop all the time and use it to make decisions about opening up the doors, putting on a dust mask, and sometimes taking a break to let the air get filtered
Breathing particulates at any level has a cumulative impact on your lungs. How much is ok is subjective.?The more margin of safety one has in their lung capacity, the better one can fight off respiratory diseases.?
The Dylos measures 0.5 micron and 2.5 micron particles on a real time basis. They give some general guidelines as to what is good/bad.
I¡¯ve run these meters inside several homes and at times was shocked about the indoor air quality. For example, my wife hated a loud cooking exhaust fan and would run it at the lowest setting¡and the particle count would skyrocket. I was able to convince her to change. (!) My takeaway is outdoor air quality is way better than indoor 99% of the time, unless someone is burning nearby.
In my hobby wood shop, the use of the Jet air filters is very noticeable, even though I have excellent dust collection. After doing some major milling I¡¯ve had the Dylos meter showing 2000+ 0.5 micron particles; the threshold of 300 is where ¡°good¡± ends.?
My 2 cents FWIW: I¡¯ve spent many, many multiples of $500 on my wood shop and equipment and I feel these are essential devices to protect my health.?
Regards, Michael Branning
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 26, 2024, at 8:55?AM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?I have a Laguna version of that device. I cannot find n English-language version of that site to be sure, but it looks very similar. I rarely use it, as my dust collection works pretty well and I use a dust mask in conjunction with the dust collection.
It is noisy, so when I do use it I set the timer for a couple of hours and leave. I don¡¯t know what it does, but it does collect dust on the filter.
The Laguna model uses an odd size pre-filter, available only from Laguna. I modified the intake end of the filter to take a better filter.
For my shop, I don¡¯t think I¡¯d buy it again.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
I have a Laguna version of that device. I cannot find n English-language version of that site to be sure, but it looks very similar. I rarely use it, as my dust collection works pretty well and I use a dust mask in conjunction with the dust collection.
It is noisy, so when I do use it I set the timer for a couple of hours and leave. I don¡¯t know what it does, but it does collect dust on the filter.
The Laguna model uses an odd size pre-filter, available only from Laguna. I modified the intake end of the filter to take a better filter.
For my shop, I don¡¯t think I¡¯d buy it again.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
I¡¯ve owned a Jet AFS-1000B filter that looks just like that for 8 years¡works well for cleaning the air but is loud, and very heavy when you try to mount it to the ceiling.?
Jet has redesigned the filter - the AFS-1000C. I¡¯ve just purchased 2 of them and put one in place. It¡¯s 1/2 the weight and much quieter. It also has a sensor that adjusts the fan speed according to the built in air particle meter, and a light to indicate filter status. I like the improvements a lot.?
Regards, Michael
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 26, 2024, at 6:09?AM, richard.csizmazia via groups.io <richard.csizmazia@...> wrote:
?Hello Everyone,
Are you aware of this device?
There seem to be a similar offering in the similar price range from other vendors as well (scm, jet, etc) and I was wondering if this device makes any sense or if anyone has any experience with it?
Many thanks,
Rich
|
Hey all,
I am struggling to get my A3-41 jointer tables to correctly joint a board without any concavity. I've got the tables coplanar (points of contact at the throat and ends, they aren't flat enough for full contact along the length, both tables have a ~0.010" belly in the middle. This "throat and ends points of contact" is from a recommendation from Felder US Support). I've played with tons of different outfield table heights (oddly enough when I get tailing end snipe it usually producers a flatter board (though not correct). I'm an experienced jointer user (unless this euro machine requires a different technique than American style jointers). Anyways, I'm at a loss. Felder Support has been pretty unresponsive for me and I'm in the middle of a job and really needing to avoid downtime. Are there any tricks I'm missing here? I have a Oneway Gauge, 60" precision straightedge, all the tools. Am I expecting too much from this machine? I'd like to be able to face joint two boards and place the freshly jointed faces together and see no visible gap.
Alternatively is there anyone proximate to Knoxville, TN that I could pay handsomely to take a stab at setting the machine up? Each day it's down I'm losing income.
Thanks.
|
Re: Dust extraction recommendations.
Hi there, definitely won't be running 3 phase.
Looking at Laguna c flux 3, Clearview (looks too tall), Sherwood And any other recommendations...
With the cflux bing 1 X 8" port, I can convert down to a 6 and 4" port ( just fit a design on the 3d print bed for this) maybe the 4" can go to an under shoot collector under sliding compound.
Worried about restricting airflow down to 6" ducts to other machines. Maybe regulating the additional 4" port will help?
Chris.
|
Re: Dust extraction recommendations.
Also, wondering how often you need to change? a fine dust bag vs the course bag shavings? Running buzzer/thicknesser, saw, bandsaw.
Chris.
|
Hello Everyone,
Are you aware of this device?
There seem to be a similar offering in the similar price range from other vendors as well (scm, jet, etc) and I was wondering if this device makes any sense or if anyone has any experience with it?
Many thanks,
Rich
|
I think you are expected to get the machine in position and connected to power and dust extraction before the tech shows up.
The tech and I worked together to install the slider on my saw. I had the base in place and leveled up before the tech arrived.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
My machine just arrived West sacramento and it is ready for pickup.
I paid Felder to commission my saw and I wonder if any of you have a list of things I should check before I release the guy?
Should I start assembling the saw by myself (to give the Felder's employee more time to complete the calibration) or should I leave it wrapped so they won't blame me of any damage.
|
Re: Dust extraction recommendations.
Without going down a dark rabbit hole and getting into deep discussion about this stuff it all depends on the impeller size and motor speed. Any advice from the US can't apply to Australia because our 50hz grid supply means our motors run about 33% slower which is why all the Clearvues sold in Oz had 3 phase motors and the speed control was done via a VFD. A 3 phase motor controlled by a VFD gives far more options, for instance I run my 15" Clearvue at 70hz which gives a far higher motor speed and it easily supports two 150mm blast gates open at the same time. PM me Chris and we can have a chat on what works in Oz and what is available which is not a lot.?
|
Re: Dust extraction recommendations.
On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 01:33 PM, Mike wrote:
What dust collector do you have? I would only ever have one gate open at a time - not sure how to handle the top saw duct collection. Haven't received the kf700 yet. How do you take the dust from the top guard ? What size tube in to what?
Thanks
Chris.
|
rodsheridan
Tom Gensmer
imran