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FB710 bandsaw survival guide

 

Hi all,

have been having some issues with resawing some Olive, using a 1¡± resaw blade from Laguna.?

I have is new from factory last year and fitted with ceramic blades, but I am still getting some drift, obliviously increases with blade wear but wanted to check if I have optimal set up.

any reference guides, material, links greatly appreciated.

many thanks

colum


Re: FS900 KF?

 

PK, very tempting! I might be able to afford the base model but I really want the feeder option and that along is another $$$$$....?

is Kundig worth the money compare to other edge sander??


Re: FS900 KF?

 

Thanks Lucky! very useful information!?

Albert?


Re: FS900 KF?

 

Come on Albert,

Join the Kundig club!

PK


Re: FS900 KF?

 

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Hi Albert (I assume)?

?

I have a 1990s FS900KF. It is a great machine with minor caveats below. I don¡¯t know about the new machines except that they are pricey here in Australia ($20K + AUD). My comments below are for my vintage machine.

?

What I like¡­

?

This machine fits between the cheap, light, hobby machines, and the big, heavy commercial units from Germany. I paid $5K AUD for mine and am very happy with it.

?

It has long belts and long cast iron tables on both sides. I use the open-belt + cast iron platen side the most simply because I don¡¯t do huge amounts of edge sanding and it is easy to turn on the machine, do some sanding, and walk away.

?

The adjustable cork platen side came to me totally worn out and I was pleasantly shocked that Felder Australia had parts that fit a 30+ year old machine. The platen works well, is fully adjustable in and out and for square, and has hard cork and silicon, and fits between two robust rollers. The fences are adjustable for in and out but they are not adjustable for square, other than fine-metal-shims inserted under connection bolts. I don¡¯t think this is a problem. The infeed fence adjustment works well for depth of cut. To control snipe and outfeed support, the platen is moved in and out. This also works well.

?

The oscillation ¡°travel¡± seems like a ¡°lot¡± when I compare it to other machines. I have never felt the motor to be lacking. There are two switches for turning on the main motor and oscillating feature so if I just want to sand something by hand (think steel fixture) I don¡¯t bother with the oscillation feature.

?

The machine has capacity for a feeder and it is on my list to buy. There is a heavy collar in the very centre of the machine to take a vertical feeder shaft ¨C no flat area for a plate and bolts. I can¡¯t imagine it would need a very strong feeder motor.

?

At first I didn¡¯t like that it has two sides which makes it harder to put up against a wall and connect dust extraction. However, I now have mine on rollers and it moves out just fine when I need ¡°the other side¡±. Dust extraction is good without being stellar. I don¡¯t think any of the larger edge sanders have ¡°stellar¡± extraction?

?

I only paid a few grand for mine as it has some issues, but I¡¯m delighted to have it in my shop. If you buy one, new or used, you will want the extension support bars. That is on my list as well. While the tables are very long, they are not very wide, so if you plan on doing any kind of larger panels (think large cabinet doors) you will want those bars.

?

The cast tables are very robust and do not appear to suffer any movement in service. The mechanism for moving the entire sanding assembly (the assembly moves while the tables stay put) seems exceptionally robust. Everything is rock-solid and at the Format-4 end of what Felder offers.

?

What I don¡¯t like so much¡­

?

My machine was probably damaged or dropped at some point as both cast iron beds have a very slight twist in them. Just enough to make me want to take them off and have them reground. I imagine a new machine would not have this problem?

?

When I got my machine I didn¡¯t realise the platen was worn down. Consequently, when the belt oscillated, the platen was not moving in a perfectly vertical path, compared to the table. This was corrected with a new, properly adjusted platen.

?

And finally, my machine has some kind of hard plastic ¡°formica-like¡± layer glued to the cast iron. This is worn and coming off in places. If and when I have the tables reground, I certainly won¡¯t be retaining the layer. Again, this comment probably stems from the fact that my machine is old and probably not an issue if you¡¯re buying new or near new.

?

I would definitely consider buying this machine again, and I¡¯m delighted to have it in my shop.

I hope this helps.

?

Warm regards,

Lucky

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Albert Lee via groups.io <timbershelf@...>
Date: Tuesday, 16 April 2024 at 10:46
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] FS900 KF?

Just wondering if anyone here had any experience with Felder's FS900KF? I know its a rebadged ACM OBS150.?

Cant afford or justify a Kundig for my one man show.?

I recently bought a well used 40yo Unilev 15, its surprising smoother than my 2 yo edge saner. hence the thought of upgrading to something newer..?


FS900 KF?

 

Just wondering if anyone here had any experience with Felder's FS900KF? I know its a rebadged ACM OBS150.?

Cant afford or justify a Kundig for my one man show.?

I recently bought a well used 40yo Unilev 15, its surprising smoother than my 2 yo edge saner. hence the thought of upgrading to something newer..?


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 

The scribing beam will tell you that, as it'll either draw one straight line, or it won't.
I couldn't say what tolerance a 4400 sized wheel needs to be, or in-fact if a Formula wheel of the same size
has less margin for error having a longer chassis.

All I can say is my 600mm wheeled saw, (ACM Star) required the wheels to be better, i.e half the 0.5mm discrepancy,
in order for the beam not to draw multiple lines.
(mimicking the results of someone changing tracking adjustment)
So a simple test checking all over the wheel prior with the beam, to be sure that the pen keeps dropping onto the same tick or line.

Best use an old blade for the job, if you've got one which has a damaged set.

Plenty of recent Centauro threads you'd find on the creek, as some of those CO saws were made fully adjustable,
hence perhaps a more fitting place to post in more detail, regarding the why's or why not's,
and another thread with some trial and error involved, whilst getting used to using the tool, along with some other details relating to the job.

All the best
Tom




Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 

Tom we did think of checking the outside rims - we used a dial guage and on the whole they were pretty good - top wheel edge maximum deflection 0.2mm and 0.1mm on bottom. Is this really enough to cause a problem when taking measurements from them?


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 

Thanks for all the replies again.
Tom i'll have a good look at your detailed instructions on Monday - appreciated.
Yes it's a new blade and yes I am aware of the adjustment on the top wheel.


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 

Did you put a new blade on it before mucking around with moving wheels? Tom is the world expert on bandsaws, he will sort it out for you.?


Re: Pillar Drill - Narex

 

Yes this is the one.

Your comment is well noted.

Narex is a reseller here in Dubai.

Thanks

Colum

On Sat 13 Apr 2024 at 18:05, <chrjparks@...> wrote:
This is the one?



I have no experience but it should be better than a typical Chinese drill press. If you buy it the first thing I would do is pull it apart and check that there are no metal debris from machining inside as it is a common problem with the cheaper end Chinese machines.

I am puzzled why you have referenced NAREX in the thread title.?


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 
Edited

I've documented getting my bandsaw fully working (over a long period of troubleshooting, that is)
last year, and posted my findings on pretty much every forum considering wheel alignment, using the scribing beam
which proved the faces of most wheels isn't trustworthy to register any sort of beam against, so don't let that throw ya off.

/g/felderownersgroup/message/132955?p=%2C%2C%2C20%2C0%2C0%2C0%3A%3Arecentpostdate%2Fsticky%2C%2Cbandsaw+wheel+alignment%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C102356245

I've mentioned elsewhere like Sawmill Creek, using a pound shop laser pen mounted in a block, which is bored for a longer wheel retaining screw,
(preferably with some accurate tightly fitting component) butted up to the inner race of the wheel, would give a projection
and could be used instead, either way you'd be sticking some masking tape down, and comparing the lines drawn.

All the best
Tom


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 

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On 13-4-2024 19:59, twawmsey via groups.io wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]



To clarify as my description above is not easy to follow;
current situation is 2nd illustration from left (parallel, not coplanar - bottom wheel 1cm forward of top!).
We managed to fix situation as shown 3rd illustration from left (not parallel (lateral)).

Did you already adjust the position of the top wheel using the wheel at the back of the saw (#14 in the diagram at )


Kind regards,


Jonathan


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 
Edited



To clarify as my description above is not easy to follow;
current situation is 2nd illustration from left (parallel, not coplanar - bottom wheel 1cm forward of top!).
We managed to fix situation as shown 3rd illustration from left (not parallel (lateral)).


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 

..running with new 3/4" resaw blade - Tuffsaws fascut


Re: BF6 Jointer Belts

 

My machines uses v belts.? Have three new ones from Felder. I am confident about the routing of the two belts from the motor to the planer/joiner head.? Not so clear on the routing of the planer drive belt.

Rhett

On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 12:27 Marlowe McGraw <marlomcgraw@...> wrote:
I just saw the email that mentions that the belts are vee belts.

Mine are all flat belts.? some are marked with machine/function,? but to be sure I would need the size if yours are flat.

Of the marked belts, the most modern model is BF4.? I had a BF5 though,? and it had flat belts also.

Marlowe?

On Fri, Apr 12, 2024, 8:17?AM Marlowe McGraw via <marlomcgraw=[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks for the reminder.?

I'll look at my collection today?and get back to you.?

Marlowe?

On Fri, Apr 12, 2024, 8:15?AM mrjeppson via <mrjeppson=[email protected]> wrote:
Thank you all for the kind replies. Marlowe I would appreciate any pictures you may have of the belts on the machine.


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 

Update;?
After a lot of fettling the wheels are now parallel but I'm still getting the same issues re. drift. Mostly pulls away from fence except with very thin pieces where it pulls in. All very puzzling...


Re: New Hammer N440 or Used/like new Minimax S45N

 

Hi, further update;
The saw is unfortunately not as good as I'd hoped. I couldn't get it to resaw without considerable drift and discovered the wheels are not running parallel (twisted). Also while the wheels are pretty close to coplanar the bottom wheel is set 1cm in front of the top! I think the parallel issue is probably causing the main problem but surely it can't be right for the wheels to be out of vertical alignment by 1cm. I will try and juggle with the bottom wheel alignment settings and report back. I currently have no idea how to either move the bottom wheel back or the top wheel forward or indeed whether this actually matters.... All a bit frustrating!
while I could see the saw running on collection and it seemed pretty smooth the seller only had a very blunt blade so couldn't do any meaningful test cuts. My guess is he was shipping a problem saw on and possibly hiding the issues..


Re: Selling some tools in the SF Bay Area (KF700S, FB640, open ended sander, etc)

 

Hi all,
I¡¯ve had a few requests to ship these, but for now,?I¡¯d very much prefer not ?to. I¡¯m in the SF Bay Area. Also, the mortiser may be spoken for, I¡¯ll update soon if not.
Thanks everyone.?
-Shawn




On Saturday, April 13, 2024, 6:49 AM, Bryan Crum <bryancrum11@...> wrote:

Is everything in good shape?

On Sat, Apr 13, 2024 at 6:23?AM Bryan Crum <bryancrum11@...> wrote:
Interested, and local in NorCal.? New to three phase, so question:? How much 220 power is needed to feed into the phase converter and make all this work?

On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 3:56?PM Shawn Kammerer via <shawnkammerer=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Everyone,
I've had a good run building doors and windows for 20 years or so, but I'm now spending my days running the construction department at a community college and no longer spend any time in my own shop. So I'm selling off a few tools:
  • KF 700 S with a 99" x-roll, 10hp saw and 10hp shaper, digi-drive on shaper, 2004
  • American Rotary ADX20 phase converter, plenty to run multiple 3phase machines off your residential power
  • Shen Shing / Sunhill Open End Belt Sander, SDM-15, 3phase
  • FB640 bandsaw, 2000, 3phase, 5.5kw, with Resaw King blade and mobile base

The saw/shaper has an outrigger, STEFF power feeder, and Big Squeeze pneumatic clamps. It runs beautifully, and at 10hp, never even considers slowing down. $8,000 with feeder and pneumatic clamps.

The bandsaw is a beast, and I've resawed quite a few door skins with it. $2,500

Sander is $1,750, runs great.

To run all of this, you may need a phase converter, which I just so happen to no longer need. It's designed for running heavy machinery with delicate computer components and runs quiet. $1,250



Re: Pillar Drill - Narex

 

This is the one?



I have no experience but it should be better than a typical Chinese drill press. If you buy it the first thing I would do is pull it apart and check that there are no metal debris from machining inside as it is a common problem with the cheaper end Chinese machines.

I am puzzled why you have referenced NAREX in the thread title.?