I may acquire a 3-phase saw with 7.5 HP (5.5 KW) motor. I¡¯ll need a converter to produce the necessary power.
Any reason not to choose the Phase Perfect Simple 7.5 HP converter, in favor of one of the other models?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
As for the hose, I have shared this before. This is a flexible (expands and contracts easily) hose and does not put as much strain on the plastic transitional piece (that it attaches to) on my K975.
I have had it since 2020 with no issues.
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On Mar 28, 2024, at 8:02?AM, Christopher Rozycki <croz1950@...> wrote: ? Rod - That is essentially what I have done. But it seems like such a half-baked solution for such a sophisticated and expensive machine. Why do I feel this way, and why does almost everyone who owns one of these machines seem to feel the same way? Here is my new 4 inch hose in place. This was really hard to shape and fit!  I used a ¡°heavy duty¡± hose ¡®cause the original hose broke down so easily and fast. There oughta be a better way! On Mar 27, 2024, at 7:40?PM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?Hi Jim, just buy some highly flexible 4 inch polyurethane hose and bend the wire into a rectangle using a couple pairs of linemen pliers.
Ii¡¯ e done a few machines this way¡¡Regards, Rod
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Rod - That is essentially what I have done. But it seems like such a half-baked solution for such a sophisticated and expensive machine. Why do I feel this way, and why does almost everyone who owns one of these machines seem to feel the same way? Here is my new 4 inch hose in place. This was really hard to shape and fit! I used a ¡°heavy duty¡± hose ¡®cause the original hose broke down so easily and fast. There oughta be a better way!
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 7:40?PM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?Hi Jim, just buy some highly flexible 4 inch polyurethane hose and bend the wire into a rectangle using a couple pairs of linemen pliers.
Ii¡¯ e done a few machines this way¡¡Regards, Rod
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Hello Imran, sorry for the delayed response, my girlfriend had a car accident and I had to focus on that for the last little while.?
I¡¯ll try a different approach with the schematic, I¡¯ve scanned as a pdf and I¡¯ll attach that, hopefully that¡¯ll fix the resolution issues. I feel it¡¯s an important piece of information.
I do believe those two black upper wires are the primary legs, however reviewing the schematic has me confused.. 1F2 (primary leg) and 1F3 (secondary load) are spec¡¯d for a 400ma fuse, 1F4 (the other primary leg on the diagram) is spec¡¯d for a 2 amp fuse. On my transformer all 3 of the upper fuse connections are 400ma, and the lower one connected to the red wire is 2 amp. I know that I put the fuses back right where I found them when i was inspecting them. Not sure if they were put in wrong before I got the machine, the seal was broken so someone has been in the electrical box before me. Or perhaps the red wire is the second primary? Doesn¡¯t line up with the diagram on top of the transformer though. Either way, results of the continuity test have no continuity from the top black wires to ground.. and the red wires do have continuity to ground, but that seems intentional as they¡¯re bridged at the bus bar to ground by a jumped wire, looks like from the factory.?
Not sure if you caught it in one of my previous messages, but I noticed the thermal overload relay (1F1) wasn¡¯t functioning at all when trying to trigger the test switch, and the reset button has no feedback. So I¡¯ve ordered a replacement for that anyways, should be here in a few days. Do you reckon that could be part of the issue??
Thank you for your help so far,
Andrew
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Actually, I¡¯ve been doing some test prints with carbon fiber reinforced PETG and Nylon recently, and I¡¯ve been really impressed how well it compares to aluminum in some applications. ? This stuff in particular has really impressed me: ?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDFBPDKP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
This stuff is even stronger, but it is 4X the price and requires well regulated high temp enclosure (which I have but I don¡¯t like the off-gas in my office):
https://www.prusa3d.com/en/product/prusament-pa11-carbon-fiber-black-800g/ Over the weekend I¡¯ll print up my bridge clamp design in that PETG-CF and give it an AB test with Cocobolo using Mac¡¯s clamps at 150 PSI. ? ? Some background on what started me down this path is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQ8FkVi-Kes
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:47?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
The angle lets the dust hood clear the hold downs.
David, as for 3D printing that complete bridge clamp like you have drawn¡ I don¡¯t think I would trust a piece of 3D printed plastic with an air clamp capable of what these put out, it would bend or snap after a bit.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I¡¯m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill B¨¦langer?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack¡ springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1¡± aluminum square bar, 1/2¡± bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws¡ all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won¡¯t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but ¡ John¡¯s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer?
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Great content; thanks for sharing!
Jacques
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The angle lets the dust hood clear the hold downs.
David, as for 3D printing that complete bridge clamp like you have drawn¡ I don¡¯t think I would trust a piece of 3D printed plastic with an air clamp capable of what these put out, it would bend or snap after a bit.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I¡¯m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill B¨¦langer?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack¡ springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1¡± aluminum square bar, 1/2¡± bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws¡ all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won¡¯t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but ¡ John¡¯s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer?
|
Of course your design would have to be the best David! Very nice rockers on the ends. Brilliant? Bill Belanger?
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 16:42, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? I posted this ?8 years ago. ?Plans attached if you want to 3D print it.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I¡¯m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill B¨¦langer?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack¡ springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1¡± aluminum square bar, 1/2¡± bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws¡ all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won¡¯t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but ¡ John¡¯s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer?
<ShotiMac_2157.jpeg> <Clamping Bridge for Sliding Table.pdf>
|
I posted this ?8 years ago. ?Plans attached if you want to 3D print it.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Show quoted text
On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I¡¯m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill B¨¦langer?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack¡ springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1¡± aluminum square bar, 1/2¡± bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws¡ all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won¡¯t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but ¡ John¡¯s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer?
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Hi Jim, just buy some highly flexible 4 inch polyurethane hose and bend the wire into a rectangle using a couple pairs of linemen pliers.
Ii¡¯ e done a few machines this way¡¡Regards, Rod
|
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I¡¯m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill B¨¦langer?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack¡ springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1¡± aluminum square bar, 1/2¡± bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws¡ all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won¡¯t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but ¡ John¡¯s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer?
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
 Seems reasonable. Thats in AUD pricing. Had to convert the file from 3mf to stp
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Chris and Imran, my measurement is that the bottom edge of the port/dust chute on my K3 is 1" from the cabinet wall when the trunnion is angled to full 45 degree tilt.? I got that my measuring down the tilted port to the, subtracting the length of the port and converting the 1.5" hypotenuse to the horizontal distance.??
The bottom edge of my port has protruding flat tabs on either end and protruding pin 1/2" up on the left (blade slot) side.? That allows the use of the 1/2" hose clamp in the original setup.? If the pin were cut or filed off, a wider band could perhaps be used.? You can see the pin in the photo attached.
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
I have had to recently replace my internal hose due to original disintegrating also, I was surprised to hear felder didnt have this kind of fitting like yours at the printables url you provided.? Thanks for this thread id very much like to try out that model on my saw. It was an absolute pain to try and adapt the 100mm hose around that rectangle, had to cut the wire in a couple areas for it to fit.
Ill get this model printed and also fit my zero clearance insert to see how that improves collection.
Thanks,
Nathan
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Aaack¡ springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1¡± aluminum square bar, 1/2¡± bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws¡ all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won¡¯t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but ¡ John¡¯s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer?
|
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1¡± aluminum square bar, 1/2¡± bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws¡ all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won¡¯t hit them accidentally.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but ¡ John¡¯s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer?
|
Bill and John:
?
Such good ideas along the same lines but ¡ John¡¯s wooden threads are pretty cool!
?
?
Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes
the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum
and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement
is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer
|
Here¡¯s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1¡±) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my ¡°scrap¡± stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.?
John Pestonjee
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)? Bill B¨¦langer
<IMG_8049.JPG> <IMG_8047.JPG> <IMG_8046.JPG>
|
I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill B¨¦langer
|
Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
On Wed, Mar 27, 2024 at 01:45 PM, Christopher Rozycki wrote:
Imran - your schematic, # 25, is exactly the kind of transition I was thinking of. Not sure if that would clear the side wall ( when saw blade is tilted to 45) in the Hammer K3 and C3-31 machines, but it looks promising.?
Thanks for sharing.
I have been wondering if a pivoting rectangular to round adapter could be configured? So that as the saw blade is tilted to 45 degrees, the adapter swings down so the round connector for the hose is always pointing downward.
I'd been thinking along similar lines. Option 1 being to adapt from rectangular to circular, with the port on the side (as per Imran's drawing), and then running the hose to a new port on the machine's side. Option 2 being an adapter with a pivoting section in the way that you describe. I suspect the problem with both would be more tendency clog, but option 1 gives lots of scope for a big "plenum", perhaps with a door for clearing it. In the short term I made an adapter out of scrap plywood and a section of plastic pipe that I softened and reshaped with a heat gun - it looks cr*p but has worked for quite a while, although it sometimes falls off on the rare times I have to go to 45 degrees. Dave (in the UK)
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imran
David P. Best
Bill Belanger
rodsheridan
Nathan D'Elboux
Jim Fleming
David Luckensmeyer
