I put my hose on the overhead guard arm. No issues with swing ing the guard away, but I do not get really good extraction from the overhead guard. It certainly will not pick up little off-cut bits like David Best¡¯s setup.?I have a fairly long hose with a tight bend near the guard. If I could widen that last curve it would probably do better.  John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
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Netanel,
I use a tilt deck trailer.? Rent a single axel one with a wooden deck.? You will be able to block the unit and use the shipping clips if it is off the pallet.??
I towed over 450 miles with one.
PK
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Re: Images of Mobility Kit for BF6?
Thank you Jeff and Paul (and Brian for the offer)!
This gives me everything I need to get my machine fixed up!
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Re: Received the Harvey hold down (AH-3T) today for my Hammer Winner
I would chuck the nut in a vise, then use a wrench on the flats.?
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On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 01:11 PM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I probably won't have enough amp in my breaker box for a huge Phase Perfect.
I alreay have a 60A circuit for a car charger.
?
I have a 10HP PP and 60a in my shop, I can start and run an 18 hp WideBelt, 3hp 1p dust collector, a Rolair 1.5hp 1P compressor and the lights don't even blink. a few reasons this works is that I work by myself the WB motor is a DeltaY start (most if not all larger motors are) and the PP can handle an 200a in-rush for a short period (long enough for most if not all spikes)
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In my case the ducting is running on the wall adjacent to saw, so I thought to run the hose on the blade guard on its arm. Do you see any issues with that?
I don¡¯t see an issue with that other than how it might restrict the overhead guard mast assembly with rotating it away from the saw blade. ?I¡¯m also not sure which type of saw guard assembly you will have - there are three variations on the K700. ?In my setup the wye is 6-inches in, with 5 and 4 going out, both of which transition to metric at the flex hose. I have posted very detailed information on my setup including dimensioned drawings and a spreadsheet that lists all the Nordfab stuff at this link: ?.?
A big variable here is what you are using for dust extraction and the length of the piping. ?In my case, I¡¯m running an RL-160 with about 40 feet of 6¡± Nordfab piping to get to the saw. And with 80mm to the dust guard, I have plenty of suction. ? I have had to program my blast gate controllers to keep the gates open and the extractor running for 8 seconds after the saw is turned off. ?Otherwise, small offcuts that tend to get sucked up into and held in the saw guard drift down once suction stops and they fall on a spinning saw blade and turn into shrapnel.?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Re: Images of Mobility Kit for BF6?
Henry.
I picked up a machine a few years ago to rebuild that had suffered main abuses including a missing pin and bent lifting bar plates.
There should be two threaded pins that screw into the casting M12 with about 20mm of projection from memory, these are something that may be available locally to you rather than shipping them or something a small engineering shop should be able to produce at
minimal cost.
The plates are a pain in the backside to try and straighten and as i had a ton of parts to order from Felder, that said I?am in the UK so don't seem to suffer the nightmare you guys on the other side of the pond seem to have with shipping of parts.
I trust the above is of use
Paul
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I've recently bought a '99 BF6. It came with?a wheel on a long handle that can lift up the jointer end of the tool and allow it to roll around on the two wheels on the saw end of the machine.
This roll-around handle assembly on mine appears to have been abused. The steel plates that make up the part that lock onto the machine are bent outwards and the previous owner was using a hex key put through two threaded holes on the machine's adapter as a
lifting point, when I'm guessing there should be a threaded pin or something to lift by instead. See attached images.
Any other cavemen still own a BF6? If so could I ask for a few photos of a unit in good condition so that I can repair any damaged parts or make new those that are missing?
Thanks,
Henry
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Thanks, that really helps.
I never thought about using a single blast gate before the wye branch, but that makes sense. I¡¯ll do it. It will save me some money and make the setup easier.
I had conversations with BlastGateCo and they can easily make me an adapter to metric, so I¡¯ll just put a QC on the ducting and use Felder hose.
In my case the ducting is running on the wall adjacent to saw, so I thought to run the hose on the blade guard on its arm. Do you see any issues with that?
with 80mm hose, do you get enough suction?
The reason I thought to go bigger here is to get higher airflow.
An unrelated question.
I am now thinking about the transportation of the saw.
ill be picking it from the showroom and wonder what type of trailer should I rent.
anyone had a change to transfer such a big pallet?
Do I need a dead drop trailer or the utility trailers from UHaula are good enough??
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Re: Images of Mobility Kit for BF6?
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Re: Images of Mobility Kit for BF6?
I have one Henry and will send pics in the morning! Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
I've recently bought a '99 BF6. It came with?a wheel on a long handle that can lift up the jointer end of the tool and allow it to roll around on the two wheels on the saw end of the machine.
This roll-around handle assembly on mine appears to have been abused. The steel plates that make up the part that lock onto the machine are bent outwards and the previous owner was using a hex key put through two threaded holes on the machine's adapter as a lifting point, when I'm guessing there should be a threaded pin or something to lift by instead. See attached images.
Any other cavemen still own a BF6? If so could I ask for a few photos of a unit in good condition so that I can repair any damaged parts or make new those that are missing?
Thanks,
Henry
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Images of Mobility Kit for BF6?
I've recently bought a '99 BF6. It came with?a wheel on a long handle that can lift up the jointer end of the tool and allow it to roll around on the two wheels on the saw end of the machine.
This roll-around handle assembly on mine appears to have been abused. The steel plates that make up the part that lock onto the machine are bent outwards and the previous owner was using a hex key put through two threaded holes on the machine's adapter as a lifting point, when I'm guessing there should be a threaded pin or something to lift by instead. See attached images.
Any other cavemen still own a BF6? If so could I ask for a few photos of a unit in good condition so that I can repair any damaged parts or make new those that are missing?
Thanks,
Henry
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Re: Eccentric clamp alternatives?
Good evening Mike,
I did not have problems. Used the same approach as Aaron; two metric wrenches and slow adjustment.
Good luck,
Jacques
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Re: Eccentric clamp alternatives?
On my Harvey AH-3T, I just used a couple of metric wrenches to loosen the t-slot nut.? They put lock-tight in the threads, so you should be able to turn it 45 degrees and let it be.
-Aaron
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Re: Received the Harvey hold down (AH-3T) today for my Hammer Winner
Use a smooth faced channel lock on the flat area of the threads then spin the nut with an open end wrench? ?
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On Mar 21, 2024, at 7:49 PM, Mike H <mike.hopkins@...> wrote:
?Nice unit, however the nut needs to rotate about 45 degrees, so that the flat side can slide through the Hammer Winner slot. ?The nut is on firmly. ?Any suggestions on how to rotate the nut without maring the hold down? -- Mike  
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Received the Harvey hold down (AH-3T) today for my Hammer Winner
Nice unit, however the nut needs to rotate about 45 degrees, so that the flat side can slide through the Hammer Winner slot. ?The nut is on firmly. ?Any suggestions on how to rotate the nut without maring the hold down? -- Mike  
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Re: Eccentric clamp alternatives?
Hi Jacques,
I just received my Harvey?AH-3T. ?Did you have difficulty rotating the nut? ?Mine needs to be moved about 45 degrees and the nut is on pretty tight. ?I don¡¯t want to damage or mar such a nice looking product.
Thanks,
--
Mike
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You can see how I handled this situation in the photo below. ?As you can see I ran flex hose from the wye directly to the overhead guard. ?Whereas on the other wye branch I ran rigid pipe closer to the dust port on the machine chassis in order to keep the flex hose length to a total distance of 4 feet at the machine chassis port.?
The best approach will depend on where the wye branch is placed relative to the dust ports on your machine. ?
I would suggest you put a single blast gate on the extractor side of the wye (as I have done) rather than having two on the machine side.
In my case, I transitioned from imperial to metric at the junction between the Nordfab piping and the flex hose (and used metric-sized flex hose), but I could have just as easily used imperial flex to the machine and transition there. ?
Be mindful that you want a quick-slip connector at the overhead guard dust port since you will be swiveling the dust guard support system out of the way frequently. ? So If you bring 4-inch flex to the overhead dust port, you will need a custom connector for the transition that is slip-fit for a quick disconnect at that point so you can swing the entire guard assembly out of position. ?
I actually prefer the 80 mm diameter flex to the overhead guard since it¡¯s not quite as bulky as using 4-inch, and therefore easier to disconnect. ?Unlike the wimpy flex hose that Felder puts inside their machines, the Felder H/SE flex hose is very good stuff - double-walled with a smooth inner layer, yet still quite flexible. ?Plus Felder sells an 80mm quick disconnect fitting.
Hope this helps.
David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Mar 21, 2024, at 3:58?PM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
I am now ordering the ductwork for the new shop.
I am going to use BlastGateCo QC ducting. my main branch is 6" and the saw needs 120mm & 80mm
I intend to use 6"x6"x4" wye branch with 6" and 4" blast gates respectively.
From there I wonder if I should add a 6" to 120mm reducer at the QC and run 120mm flex hose or should I run 6" hose and add a reducer at the saw itself?
Same question for the overhead guard
?
I have 3D printer and can print adapters/fittings in needed
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Hi, remove the 2 secondary wires, then apply power and see if the fuse still fail.
If the fuses don¡¯t fail, measure the secondary voltage, it should be close to 24 volts (AC).
That will let you know whether the transformer is OK
Regards, Rod
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I am now ordering the ductwork for the new shop.
I am going to use BlastGateCo QC ducting. my main branch is 6" and the saw needs 120mm & 80mm
I intend to use 6"x6"x4" wye branch with 6" and 4" blast gates respectively.
From there I wonder if I should add a 6" to 120mm reducer at the QC and run 120mm flex hose or should I run 6" hose and add a reducer at the saw itself?
Same question for the overhead guard
?
I have 3D printer and can print adapters/fittings in needed
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Good afternoon everyone,
Unfortunately, I need to close my shop after giving it a try. Before posting on any machinery listing sites, I wanted to check if there was any interest here.
Clicking on the link below, will take you to a spreadsheet containing information about what is available. It is an active spreadsheet, so you should see what is still for sale. I will update it as items are sold and may also add new things periodically. I'll keep everyone informed of any changes.
The spreadsheet has two tabs: Equipment and Accessories/Other. I have tried to list part numbers and links to everything. In the yellow cells, there are files with photos.
I am located in Gorham, Maine 04038?
I do plan on offering to crate and help with shipping for a fee.?
Thanks, -- Joe Albiston
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PK
David P. Best
Brian
Mike Hopkins
rodsheridan