Re: Images of Mobility Kit for BF6?

I have one Henry and will send pics in the morning!

Kind regards,

Brian D. Milidrag

Cell?248.765.8411?

On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 12:06?AM <hwettersten@...> wrote:

I've recently bought a '99 BF6. It came with?a wheel on a long handle that can lift up the jointer end of the tool and allow it to roll around on the two wheels on the saw end of the machine.

This roll-around handle assembly on mine appears to have been abused. The steel plates that make up the part that lock onto the machine are bent outwards and the previous owner was using a hex key put through two threaded holes on the machine's adapter as a lifting point, when I'm guessing there should be a threaded pin or something to lift by instead. See attached images.

Any other cavemen still own a BF6? If so could I ask for a few photos of a unit in good condition so that I can repair any damaged parts or make new those that are missing?

Thanks,
Henry

Images of Mobility Kit for BF6?

#135531

I've recently bought a '99 BF6. It came with?a wheel on a long handle that can lift up the jointer end of the tool and allow it to roll around on the two wheels on the saw end of the machine.

This roll-around handle assembly on mine appears to have been abused. The steel plates that make up the part that lock onto the machine are bent outwards and the previous owner was using a hex key put through two threaded holes on the machine's adapter as a lifting point, when I'm guessing there should be a threaded pin or something to lift by instead. See attached images.

Any other cavemen still own a BF6? If so could I ask for a few photos of a unit in good condition so that I can repair any damaged parts or make new those that are missing?

Thanks,
Henry

Re: Eccentric clamp alternatives?

#135530

Good evening Mike,

I did not have problems. Used the same approach as Aaron; two metric wrenches and slow adjustment.

Good luck,

Jacques

Re: Eccentric clamp alternatives?

#135529

On my Harvey AH-3T, I just used a couple of metric wrenches to loosen the t-slot nut.? They put lock-tight in the threads, so you should be able to turn it 45 degrees and let it be.

-Aaron

Re: Received the Harvey hold down (AH-3T) today for my Hammer Winner

#135528

开云体育

Use a smooth faced channel lock on the flat area of the threads then spin the nut with an open end wrench? ?

Show quoted text

On Mar 21, 2024, at 7:49 PM, Mike H <mike.hopkins@...> wrote:

?Nice unit, however the nut needs to rotate about 45 degrees, so that the flat side can slide through the Hammer Winner slot. ?The nut is on firmly. ?Any suggestions on how to rotate the nut without maring the hold down?
--
Mike

Received the Harvey hold down (AH-3T) today for my Hammer Winner

#135527

Nice unit, however the nut needs to rotate about 45 degrees, so that the flat side can slide through the Hammer Winner slot. ?The nut is on firmly. ?Any suggestions on how to rotate the nut without maring the hold down?
--
Mike

Re: Eccentric clamp alternatives?

#135526

Hi Jacques,

I just received my Harvey?AH-3T. ?Did you have difficulty rotating the nut? ?Mine needs to be moved about 45 degrees and the nut is on pretty tight. ?I don’t want to damage or mar such a nice looking product.

Thanks,
--
Mike

Re: Upgrading slider

#135525

开云体育

You can see how I handled this situation in the photo below. ?As you can see I ran flex hose from the wye directly to the overhead guard. ?Whereas on the other wye branch I ran rigid pipe closer to the dust port on the machine chassis in order to keep the flex hose length to a total distance of 4 feet at the machine chassis port.?

The best approach will depend on where the wye branch is placed relative to the dust ports on your machine. ?

I would suggest you put a single blast gate on the extractor side of the wye (as I have done) rather than having two on the machine side.

In my case, I transitioned from imperial to metric at the junction between the Nordfab piping and the flex hose (and used metric-sized flex hose), but I could have just as easily used imperial flex to the machine and transition there. ?

Be mindful that you want a quick-slip connector at the overhead guard dust port since you will be swiveling the dust guard support system out of the way frequently. ? So If you bring 4-inch flex to the overhead dust port, you will need a custom connector for the transition that is slip-fit for a quick disconnect at that point so you can swing the entire guard assembly out of position. ?

I actually prefer the 80 mm diameter flex to the overhead guard since it’s not quite as bulky as using 4-inch, and therefore easier to disconnect. ?Unlike the wimpy flex hose that Felder puts inside their machines, the Felder H/SE flex hose is very good stuff - double-walled with a smooth inner layer, yet still quite flexible. ?Plus Felder sells an 80mm quick disconnect fitting.

Hope this helps.

David Best - via mobile phone?

Show quoted text

On Mar 21, 2024, at 3:58?PM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:

?
[Edited Message Follows]

I am now ordering the ductwork for the new shop.

I am going to use BlastGateCo QC ducting. my main branch is 6" and the saw needs 120mm & 80mm

I intend to use 6"x6"x4" wye branch with 6" and 4" blast gates respectively.

From there I wonder if I should add a 6" to 120mm reducer at the QC and run 120mm flex hose or should I run 6" hose and add a reducer at the saw itself?

Same question for the overhead guard

?

I have 3D printer and can print adapters/fittings in needed

Re: AD951 Electrical Issues #servicing #wiring #electrical #jointerplaner

#135524

Hi, remove the 2 secondary wires, then apply power and see if the fuse still fail.

If the fuses don’t fail, measure the secondary voltage, it should be close to 24 volts (AC).

That will let you know whether the transformer is OK

Regards, Rod

Re: Upgrading slider

#135523
Edited

I am now ordering the ductwork for the new shop.

I am going to use BlastGateCo QC ducting. my main branch is 6" and the saw needs 120mm & 80mm

I intend to use 6"x6"x4" wye branch with 6" and 4" blast gates respectively.

From there I wonder if I should add a 6" to 120mm reducer at the QC and run 120mm flex hose or should I run 6" hose and add a reducer at the saw itself?

Same question for the overhead guard

?

I have 3D printer and can print adapters/fittings in needed

#forsale #forsale

#135522

Good afternoon everyone,

Unfortunately, I need to close my shop after giving it a try. Before posting on any machinery listing sites, I wanted to check if there was any interest here.

Clicking on the link below, will take you to a spreadsheet containing information about what is available. It is an active spreadsheet, so you should see what is still for sale. I will update it as items are sold and may also add new things periodically. I'll keep everyone informed of any changes.

The spreadsheet has two tabs: Equipment and Accessories/Other. I have tried to list part numbers and links to everything. In the yellow cells, there are files with photos.

I am located in Gorham, Maine 04038?

I do plan on offering to crate and help with shipping for a fee.?

Thanks,

--
Joe Albiston

Re: AD951 Electrical Issues #servicing #wiring #electrical #jointerplaner

#135521

开云体育

Hi Andrew,

Not sure why, but the schematic is still not readable. You mention fuse beside each other as in physical location and I am assuming that these are the 2 fuses on each leg of the primary in the schematic. This could be a bad assumption. Anyhow, if that is the case, appears that primary has a short to ground.

With power completely off, remove both fuses on each leg of primary (in schematic these are above the transformer). Then measure the resistance of each side of the primary to machine chassis and also to electrical ground. If it is not open (high resistance) in all cases there is a short. It is either in the core (replace transformer) or check that the additional tap on the primary has not accidentally come in contact with ground.

If the primary is good then it gets a bit more complicated.

Imran Malik

Show quoted text

On Mar 21, 2024, at 2:55?PM, Andrew <andrew@...> wrote:

?My apologies, the upload must have ruined the resolution. May come out better if I upload right from my phone, let’s see:

<IMG_4758.jpeg>

<IMG_4757.jpeg>

Re: AD951 Electrical Issues #servicing #wiring #electrical #jointerplaner

Andrew

#135520

Thankyou for the suggestions David, the 24V system has an intentional bridge to ground from the bus bar, I have continuity running through entire system to ground. The fuses I replaced them with were 400ma slow blow fuses right out of another felder machine, so should be a match. Upon closer inspection I noticed that the thermal overload relay wasn’t working properly, not tripping when I try to click the test switch, so I’m going to start with replacing that and see where that gets me, 2 week wait unfortunately to get a new one delivered.?

Re: AD951 Electrical Issues #servicing #wiring #electrical #jointerplaner

Andrew

#135519

My apologies, the upload must have ruined the resolution. May come out better if I upload right from my phone, let’s see:

Re: Ellis Drill Press vs. Solberga DP

#135518

Love my ellis drill press. It fell over while i was fork lifting it by myseld and landed on the vfd. A few hits with a hammer to straighten things out and it still works perfectly. Not something i really like to brag about but

Re: AD951 Electrical Issues #servicing #wiring #electrical #jointerplaner

#135517

开云体育

Hi Andrew,

Can you please attach a higher resolution pic for schematic.

Imran Malik

Show quoted text

On Mar 20, 2024, at 11:52?PM, Andrew <andrew@...> wrote:

?Hello All, first time post here, looking for some help. I recently acquired a 2008 Felder AD951 Combination Jointer/Planer. After getting it hooked up it worked fantastic for about 2 months... then when I went to go start it up on the weekend it wouldn't fire up, no feedback at all from the start button. I then checked all the e-stops and the limit switches for the jointer bed to make sure they were all in the correct position, which they were. This led me to open up the electrical cover on the back to run some tests to see what it could be. All power leading to the machine was fine from the main shutoff switch, 208v across all 3 phases. After finding the electrical schematics I found that there were 4 fuses on the transformer, opened them up and found one blown on the primary side, no power to the 24v system. Replaced it with the appropriate 400 Ma fuse, turned power back on and the fuse beside it blew right away.. I then replaced that one, reset main power and the original fuse I replaced blew again.

So there is some sort of electrical fault going on. I'm wondering where I should look next, or could it be the transformer itself has gone bad? Any help is appreciated, I've attached the electrical diagram, the fuses are connected to 1T1 in the top right corner, as well as a photo of the wiring itself and the transformer (the 2 fuses that are blowing are circled). Thanks!

<IMG_4749 Large.jpeg>

<IMG_4750 Large.jpeg>

<IMG_4751 Large.jpeg>

<IMG_4758 Large.jpeg>

Re: AD951 Electrical Issues #servicing #wiring #electrical #jointerplaner

#135516

开云体育

I’ll offer a couple of ideas. ?First would be to test the 24V circuit to see if it’s been shorted to ground by a crimped wire somewhere in the micro-switch chain. ?A continuity tester of multimeter should give you an indication. ?I had fuse blowing issues similar to this after replacing the OEM version and discovered my replacements were not the slow-blow variety. ?That was quite a while ago so I can't give you specifics, but I do remember that finding the right fuse was something of a treasure hunt. ?

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

Show quoted text

On Mar 20, 2024, at 7:00?PM, Andrew <andrew@...> wrote:

Hello All, first time post here, looking for some help. I recently acquired a 2008 Felder AD951 Combination Jointer/Planer. After getting it hooked up it worked fantastic for about 2 months... then when I went to go start it up on the weekend it wouldn't fire up, no feedback at all from the start button. I then checked all the e-stops and the limit switches for the jointer bed to make sure they were all in the correct position, which they were. This led me to open up the electrical cover on the back to run some tests to see what it could be. All power leading to the machine was fine from the main shutoff switch, 208v across all 3 phases. After finding the electrical schematics I found that there were 4 fuses on the transformer, opened them up and found one blown on the primary side, no power to the 24v system. Replaced it with the appropriate 400 Ma fuse, turned power back on and the fuse beside it blew right away.. I then replaced that one, reset main power and the original fuse I replaced blew again.

So there is some sort of electrical fault going on. I'm wondering where I should look next, or could it be the transformer itself has gone bad? Any help is appreciated, I've attached the electrical diagram, the fuses are connected to 1T1 in the top right corner, as well as a photo of the wiring itself and the transformer (the 2 fuses that are blowing are circled). Thanks!

<IMG_4749 Large.jpeg><IMG_4750 Large.jpeg><IMG_4751 Large.jpeg><IMG_4758 Large.jpeg>

AD951 Electrical Issues #servicing #wiring #electrical #jointerplaner

Andrew

#135515

Hello All, first time post here, looking for some help. I recently acquired a 2008 Felder AD951 Combination Jointer/Planer. After getting it hooked up it worked fantastic for about 2 months... then when I went to go start it up on the weekend it wouldn't fire up, no feedback at all from the start button. I then checked all the e-stops and the limit switches for the jointer bed to make sure they were all in the correct position, which they were. This led me to open up the electrical cover on the back to run some tests to see what it could be. All power leading to the machine was fine from the main shutoff switch, 208v across all 3 phases. After finding the electrical schematics I found that there were 4 fuses on the transformer, opened them up and found one blown on the primary side, no power to the 24v system. Replaced it with the appropriate 400 Ma fuse, turned power back on and the fuse beside it blew right away.. I then replaced that one, reset main power and the original fuse I replaced blew again.

So there is some sort of electrical fault going on. I'm wondering where I should look next, or could it be the transformer itself has gone bad? Any help is appreciated, I've attached the electrical diagram, the fuses are connected to 1T1 in the top right corner, as well as a photo of the wiring itself and the transformer (the 2 fuses that are blowing are circled). Thanks!

Re: Ellis Drill Press vs. Solberga DP

#135514

Thanks David. I’m looking forward to seeing the Ellis DP in person next week. I don’t foresee using it for milling so I’m leaning toward the belt driven. Not that it’s a concern, but the Ellis is 110, whereas the Solberga is 3 phase.

Tom

Re: Ellis Drill Press vs. Solberga DP

#135513

I keep meaning to go fire up my Solberga SE2025 drill press because I don't ever remember being bothered by the sound level of it but I just had a bone spur removed on my foot so I'm not doing much of anything for a while.

Dave Davies

Show quoted text

On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 9:35?PM David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

Yes Tom, I have used the Ellis 9500 DP.? Great belt-driven machine and a really great company to deal with. if you don’t mind the noise of a gearhead machine, the Solberga is perhaps better choice - I can’t say for sure because I’ve never run a Solberga.? But I have owned both belt driven and gearhead driven milling machines and the difference in noise is meaningful.? My Ring Fu 45 mailing machine with a gearhead drive similar to the Solberga would make noise at a level equivalent to a KitchenAid mixer on high even without a load.? Whereas my belt-driven baby Bridgeport mill is almost silent. There is probably is a difference in maximum torque between the two machines, but in a woodworking environment that would not be a meaningful distinction.

David Best - via mobile phone?

On Mar 19, 2024, at 12:36?PM, Tom Morris <morrist@...> wrote:

?To continue the discussion on drill presses, I have found a company that sells the Ellis 9500 drill press somewhat close to me. I'm going next week to look at it first hand. The Ellis 9500 is a little more expensive than the Solberga SE2025, but I favor something I can see before I buy. The biggest difference I can see between the two is the Ellis is belt driven whereas the Solberga is gear driven.

David - you said that you thought the best American made drill press was the Ellis, have you used one?

If I like the Ellis, I can save about $500 by picking it up myself. That is if I can load it in the minivan I will have with me. The machine weighs about 750 pounds and can be loaded with a forklift, but I'd have to use manpower to unload it. I'm not sure that is a wise decision.?

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Tom Morris
Wichita, KS?

--

Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868