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Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The stainless steel banding is just a protective cover, it¡¯s really not necessary to be there, but it makes it easier to wipe off the banding.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com




On Feb 16, 2024, at 9:30?AM, Mike <mike@...> wrote:

You fixed it! I'm not sure why I didn't see the sensor was oriented incorrectly. Thanks for the extra eyes.?

One remaining question: What is the stainless-steel banding used for? Does it go on top of the magnetic strip to protect it?

John, I mounted this on a Minimax MM20. I simply mortised the wood box and tapped for two screws in the fence to hold it. The magnetic strip replaced the rule recessed in the bar. I had to make it deep to accommodate the long sensor cable. I had a job hand-soldering complicated circuit once , but shortening the cable looked beyond my expertise. I'd send pictures, but it would take too long to explain the mistakes.


Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.

 

You fixed it! I'm not sure why I didn't see the sensor was oriented incorrectly. Thanks for the extra eyes.?

One remaining question: What is the stainless-steel banding used for? Does it go on top of the magnetic strip to protect it?

John, I mounted this on a Minimax MM20. I simply mortised the wood box and tapped for two screws in the fence to hold it. The magnetic strip replaced the rule recessed in the bar. I had to make it deep to accommodate the long sensor cable. I had a job hand-soldering complicated circuit once , but shortening the cable looked beyond my expertise. I'd send pictures, but it would take too long to explain the mistakes.


Re: Mortising unit v Pantorouter

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Jonathan,

Can you comment on the depth of bore possible with mortiser? Someone mentioned, that depth achieved with the same bit length is ¡°significantly¡± less than the same bit on other mortisers.?

Following from Felder site. I assume this would be less for smaller dia, shorter bits:
image0.jpeg

Imran Malik

On Feb 16, 2024, at 9:55?AM, Jonathan Smith <jonathan.smith@...> wrote:

?I have a CF741 combo and a mortiser on a cart so it can be detached and stored in a corner when not needed.? It works well; solid, repeatable, accurate. Dust collection is marginal.? Expect a shallow learning curve depending on the bit you use and how to hog out and then finish to size. I use routers for cutting to patterns.

I have an extra, new in a box, rolling carriage that I would give away to a good home.

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Re: Mortising unit v Pantorouter

 

I have a CF741 combo and a mortiser on a cart so it can be detached and stored in a corner when not needed.? It works well; solid, repeatable, accurate. Dust collection is marginal.? Expect a shallow learning curve depending on the bit you use and how to hog out and then finish to size. I use routers for cutting to patterns.

I have an extra, new in a box, rolling carriage that I would give away to a good home.


Re: Mortising unit v Pantorouter

 
Edited

Hi Tom,
?
Whhhaaattttt! an email with multirouter and pantorouter without any mud slinging, it is indeed ?refreshing ?
?
A very good way to skin this cat as they all have their usefulness. I have read here that the bolt-on mortiser has significant bore depth limitation. Not sure if it was an operator issue or if it is indeed true. I would definitely confirm if I was buying one.
?
I may have missed if you mentioned that FD250 has stops for repeatable boring/mortising. I believe they can extend to 8¡¯ on one side or ?less if needed on both sides.
?
Who about ease of work holding? Are there differences here?
?
Thanks again for the comparison.

Imran Malik

On Feb 16, 2024, at 9:07?AM, Tom Gensmer <tom@...> wrote:

Hi Nathan,?

?It really depends on what kind of work you're performing. I'd separate the free-standing mortising units from the bolt-on mortising units, since the free-standing mortising units have a fixed table which a movable spindle, whereas on the bolt-on units the spindle is fixed and the table moves.?

?One way to think/visualize the machines that might be helpful are the following:?

?RPM:?
?-- FD-250, Bolt-on Mortiser: Relatively low RPM, ~3,000
?-- Multirouter, Pantorouter: Relatively high RPM, ~15k-25k

?What moves, what is fixed?
?-- FD-250, Pantorouter: Fixed table, movable spindle
?-- Bolt-on mortiser, Multi-Router: Fixed spindle, movable table

?Support:
?-- FD-250: Fixed, cast-iron table with F-channels to facilitate use of Felder table extensions
?-- Bolt-on mortiser, Multi-Router, Pantorouter: No native support for table extensions, though you could conceivably use roller stands or other independent work supports

?"Programability":
?-- FD-250, Bolt-on Mosritser: Adjustable stops for X and Y travel, Z travel controlled via hand wheel
?-- Multi-Router, Pantorouter: Adjustable stops for X, Y, and Z travel, all controlled independently with levers

?Templates:
?-- FD-250, Bolt-on Mortiser: No Templates for joinery
?-- Multi-Router, Pantorouter: Templates available for joinery

?Line drilling:?
?-- FD-250, Bolt-On mortiser for Felder machines: Template bars available for precise hole drilling
?-- Bolt-On mortiser for Hammer, Multi-Router, Pantorouter: No line boring templates

?Clamping capacity:
?-- FD-250, Bolt-On Mortiser: Chuck with clamping capacity up to 20mm
?-- Multi-Router, Pantorouter: Limited to your collet capacity, usually 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2"

?Rotation:
?-- FD-250: Forward/Reverse
?-- Bolt-On Mortiser: "Left Hand" rotation
?-- Multi-Router, Pantorouter: "Right Hand" rotation

? Other Features:?
?-- FD-250: Available with a hollow chisel mortising function

?Ultimately, I believe that the consensus is that the FD-250 and the Bolt-on Mortiser have the edge in terms of running larger/longer tooling, whereas the Multi-Router and Pantorouter have the advantage in terms of joinery tasks.?

?Circling back to "it depends on what you're doing", I'd suggest that if you're mostly building doors/windows, I'd recommend the FD-250 or Bolt-on Mortising unit, whereas if you're building furniture or chairs, you may be better served with the Multi-Router or Pantorouter.?

?For myself, I opted for the FD-250 with the two speed, reversible three phase motor, with the hollow chisel mortising package, as well as the line boring/doweling package. I build a lot of doors and windows, and I really appreciate the ability to expand the table surface with table extensions to support a fully assembled door for mortising/drilling for the handle set.?

?In terms of shop space, now that I've been using my FD-250 for awhile I'm finding I haven't used my drill press since the mortiser arrived, so I'm looking to sell the drill press.?

?I'm sure I've missed something above, but hopefully the above gives you some ideas in terms of identifying what your needs are, which in turn would drive your machine selection.?


--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: Mortising unit v Pantorouter

 

Tom,

Very good analysis; thanks for sharing your experience and perspective.

Regards,

Jacques


Re: Mortising unit v Pantorouter

 

Hi Nathan,?

?It really depends on what kind of work you're performing. I'd separate the free-standing mortising units from the bolt-on mortising units, since the free-standing mortising units have a fixed table which a movable spindle, whereas on the bolt-on units the spindle is fixed and the table moves.?

?One way to think/visualize the machines that might be helpful are the following:?

?RPM:?
?-- FD-250, Bolt-on Mortiser: Relatively low RPM, ~3,000
?-- Multirouter, Pantorouter: Relatively high RPM, ~15k-25k

?What moves, what is fixed?
?-- FD-250, Pantorouter: Fixed table, movable spindle
?-- Bolt-on mortiser, Multi-Router: Fixed spindle, movable table

?Support:
?-- FD-250: Fixed, cast-iron table with F-channels to facilitate use of Felder table extensions
?-- Bolt-on mortiser, Multi-Router, Pantorouter: No native support for table extensions, though you could conceivably use roller stands or other independent work supports

?"Programability":
?-- FD-250, Bolt-on Mosritser: Adjustable stops for X and Y travel, Z travel controlled via hand wheel
?-- Multi-Router, Pantorouter: Adjustable stops for X, Y, and Z travel, all controlled independently with levers

?Templates:
?-- FD-250, Bolt-on Mortiser: No Templates for joinery
?-- Multi-Router, Pantorouter: Templates available for joinery

?Line drilling:?
?-- FD-250, Bolt-On mortiser for Felder machines: Template bars available for precise hole drilling
?-- Bolt-On mortiser for Hammer, Multi-Router, Pantorouter: No line boring templates

?Clamping capacity:
?-- FD-250, Bolt-On Mortiser: Chuck with clamping capacity up to 20mm
?-- Multi-Router, Pantorouter: Limited to your collet capacity, usually 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2"

?Rotation:
?-- FD-250: Forward/Reverse
?-- Bolt-On Mortiser: "Left Hand" rotation
?-- Multi-Router, Pantorouter: "Right Hand" rotation

? Other Features:?
?-- FD-250: Available with a hollow chisel mortising function

?Ultimately, I believe that the consensus is that the FD-250 and the Bolt-on Mortiser have the edge in terms of running larger/longer tooling, whereas the Multi-Router and Pantorouter have the advantage in terms of joinery tasks.?

?Circling back to "it depends on what you're doing", I'd suggest that if you're mostly building doors/windows, I'd recommend the FD-250 or Bolt-on Mortising unit, whereas if you're building furniture or chairs, you may be better served with the Multi-Router or Pantorouter.?

?For myself, I opted for the FD-250 with the two speed, reversible three phase motor, with the hollow chisel mortising package, as well as the line boring/doweling package. I build a lot of doors and windows, and I really appreciate the ability to expand the table surface with table extensions to support a fully assembled door for mortising/drilling for the handle set.?

?In terms of shop space, now that I've been using my FD-250 for awhile I'm finding I haven't used my drill press since the mortiser arrived, so I'm looking to sell the drill press.?

?I'm sure I've missed something above, but hopefully the above gives you some ideas in terms of identifying what your needs are, which in turn would drive your machine selection.?


--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: Mortising unit v Pantorouter

 

If you are a tool enthusiast, you need both plus a multirouter. All 3 are a bit different.

I'm not there is a fair comparison between our fd250 and our pantorouter other than maybe....pantorouter is small and more suitable for true joinery parts tasks, male and female matches, small parts at a time.? ?fd250 is large, heavy, and can hold the whole door or furniture assembly while mortising or drilling but thats its only function. It's like comparing a golf cart to a bulldozer maybe?


On Fri, Feb 16, 2024, 1:34?AM PK <pk@...> wrote:
Ohh dear,

The cat has been released from the bag...? how long will it take for the debate to begin.

I am waiting for what is to come with some delicious popcorn over in the corner...

PK


Re: Mortising unit v Pantorouter

 

Ohh dear,

The cat has been released from the bag...? how long will it take for the debate to begin.

I am waiting for what is to come with some delicious popcorn over in the corner...

PK


Mortising unit v Pantorouter

 

Just browsing around through magazines and online recently i was reading about the pantorouter shown here -

It got me thinking about my pending order i have with felder for a few accessories i need to get for my C3 31 combo unit and about the slot mortiser attachment (501-117) and overlap of functionality along with floor space consumption.? Does anyone own either the slot mortiser attachment for a hammer or Felder combo unit or freestanding model and has any comparative understanding between the functions it can perform with the pantorouter?? I understand conceptually the pantorouter uses templates that are scaled in order to achieve the desired cuts but a well marked out set of parts and experienced operator seems to be able to do the same job with the hammer slot mortiser it seems??

Seems to me conserving floor space and having that attached/integrated into my combo machine makes more sense than taking up more shop space with a dedicated cabinet and smaller router spindle running a pantorouter in the same workshop.? Or are there differences or advantages im not aware of for the types of joinery it can perform.

Thanks
Nathan


Re: Retro spiral cutter head?

 

Hi Phil,?

?If you're exploring alternative cutter blocks, you could also look into whether there's a Tersa cutterblock available:?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Mike,

What John said is correct for my M503. The long side of the sensor needs to be in line with the mag strip. Did your other sensor work in this orientation?

Imran Malik

On Feb 15, 2024, at 3:38?PM, Mike <mike@...> wrote:

?I installed an M503L on my bandsaw fence and ran into a problem. I keep getting E07, meaning failure of magnetic field detection, or it shows miniscule changes across large distances. The only difference I noticed between this and a successful installation on my KF700 is the magnetic strip is attached to steel, rather than aluminum. Does this make a difference? Maybe I need to use the ss strip included with the M503L underneath it? Does anyone know?


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Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.

 

Is your read head across the magnetic strip, or is the long direction of the read head aligned with the strip? I don¡¯t know if that makes a difference, but it seemed like the directions that came with mine showed the read head parallel to the strip.

How did you mount your strip and reader? I¡¯ve given some thought to putting one of these on my bandsaw, but have not really thought out how to do that.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Check the distance from the read head to the banding. No, it doesn¡¯t make a difference stuck to aluminum vs. steel. The only thing the read head picks up is the magnetic field from the banding.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com




On Feb 15, 2024, at 1:38?PM, Mike <mike@...> wrote:

I installed an M503L on my bandsaw fence and ran into a problem. I keep getting E07, meaning failure of magnetic field detection, or it shows miniscule changes across large distances. The only difference I noticed between this and a successful installation on my KF700 is the magnetic strip is attached to steel, rather than aluminum. Does this make a difference? Maybe I need to use the ss strip included with the M503L underneath it? Does anyone know?


<IMG_8282.JPG>


Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.

 

I installed an M503L on my bandsaw fence and ran into a problem. I keep getting E07, meaning failure of magnetic field detection, or it shows miniscule changes across large distances. The only difference I noticed between this and a successful installation on my KF700 is the magnetic strip is attached to steel, rather than aluminum. Does this make a difference? Maybe I need to use the ss strip included with the M503L underneath it? Does anyone know?



Re: Retro spiral cutter head?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thank you for your feedback.?
Does the Shelix give a high quality finish?
Is anyone using another type of cutter head that they could recommend?
Thanks Phil?

On 16 Feb 2024, at 5:40?am, Bram Baert <bram.baert@...> wrote:

?
Hey

Just jumped on my PC as it's easier to get the next bit of info. My experience with shelix is positive in the?way that they are very responsive to questions and updates on the?production wait time. However they can only do so much and rely on bryd to provide accurate data.? After I bought it I did have a conversation with them going back and forward a couple of times regarding my experience. Below you can find my initial review

I installed the cutter head into a Hammer C3-31. All-in-all the conversion process is relatively simple (I used a guide from JGT?) but it did take me a full day to get it done. To get it installed I had to do 2 modifications. A first was filling down the locking key of the drive pulley. The recess in the shaft wasn't deep enough (about 750 micrometer).?What bothered me more was that there was insufficient clearance between the shaft and the threads of the front nut (the real big one) to fully seat against ?the bearing. I ended up grinding down some of the threads in the nut since I didn't have appropriate washers.?

?

I 've done comparative measurements in terms of sound and current consumption. The sound level is between 10 and 15 dBA lower and the current consumption on my 3-phase 4HP motor is comparable, to slightly lower between the straight knifes.

In terms of cut quality, well that 's why we did it. Now I am able to plane strange grained exotic hardwoods like Azobe and Bilinga without tear-out.

As a conclusion, I would do it again but I did expect a more high end product.?

One final side note. I have my out feed table 50-100 micrometer below the top of the cutter head. This means that when using it on the C3 you are no longer able to rotate all knifes fully out of the way thus when cutting with the table saw with large overhangs on the right side of the blade, there might be some scratching on scratch prone materials.?

?

While marking the drawing I also remembered that the 90¡ã groove on the left side should start sooner. Now the tip of the locking screw (that has the same angle on its tip as the groove) landed right on the transition between flat and angled side making less good contact than if the two angled surfaces would contact. On the original head there is no flat spot and it immediately goes from threads into the 90¡ã groove.?

?

?
I believe at the end of conversation I did manage to explain all the points in sufficient detail. I don't know if they actually changed anything to the dimensions?/ production tolerances.

Regards Bram

Op do 15 feb 2024 om 20:25 schreef Bram Baert <bram.baert@...>:
Hey

It's not only in Australia. They just don't want to sell it as an upgrade. I tried it several times (Belgium). In the end I bought mine through . It only mentions the A3-31 but it also works on the C3-31.?

Regards Bram


Op do 15 feb. 2024 14:02 schreef Roger S <rsinden@...>:
Could you get a member from a different country to get one and send to you ?

Roger

On 14 Feb 2024, at 20:46, Philip Krisanski <Philip@...> wrote:

In Australia Felder will not sell me a spiral cutter head for my C3-31.
My only option is an aftermarket version. Can anyone make recommendations here?
Thanks?
Philip?

On 15 Feb 2024, at 6:34?am, Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:

?Thank you Jonathan


Re: Retro spiral cutter head?

 

Hey

Just jumped on my PC as it's easier to get the next bit of info. My experience with shelix is positive in the?way that they are very responsive to questions and updates on the?production wait time. However they can only do so much and rely on bryd to provide accurate data.? After I bought it I did have a conversation with them going back and forward a couple of times regarding my experience. Below you can find my initial review

I installed the cutter head into a Hammer C3-31. All-in-all the conversion process is relatively simple (I used a guide from JGT?) but it did take me a full day to get it done. To get it installed I had to do 2 modifications. A first was filling down the locking key of the drive pulley. The recess in the shaft wasn't deep enough (about 750 micrometer).?What bothered me more was that there was insufficient clearance between the shaft and the threads of the front nut (the real big one) to fully seat against ?the bearing. I ended up grinding down some of the threads in the nut since I didn't have appropriate washers.?

?

I 've done comparative measurements in terms of sound and current consumption. The sound level is between 10 and 15 dBA lower and the current consumption on my 3-phase 4HP motor is comparable, to slightly lower between the straight knifes.

In terms of cut quality, well that 's why we did it. Now I am able to plane strange grained exotic hardwoods like Azobe and Bilinga without tear-out.

As a conclusion, I would do it again but I did expect a more high end product.?

One final side note. I have my out feed table 50-100 micrometer below the top of the cutter head. This means that when using it on the C3 you are no longer able to rotate all knifes fully out of the way thus when cutting with the table saw with large overhangs on the right side of the blade, there might be some scratching on scratch prone materials.?

?

While marking the drawing I also remembered that the 90¡ã groove on the left side should start sooner. Now the tip of the locking screw (that has the same angle on its tip as the groove) landed right on the transition between flat and angled side making less good contact than if the two angled surfaces would contact. On the original head there is no flat spot and it immediately goes from threads into the 90¡ã groove.?

?

?
I believe at the end of conversation I did manage to explain all the points in sufficient detail. I don't know if they actually changed anything to the dimensions?/ production tolerances.

Regards Bram

Op do 15 feb 2024 om 20:25 schreef Bram Baert <bram.baert@...>:
Hey

It's not only in Australia. They just don't want to sell it as an upgrade. I tried it several times (Belgium). In the end I bought mine through . It only mentions the A3-31 but it also works on the C3-31.?

Regards Bram


Op do 15 feb. 2024 14:02 schreef Roger S <rsinden@...>:
Could you get a member from a different country to get one and send to you ?

Roger

On 14 Feb 2024, at 20:46, Philip Krisanski <Philip@...> wrote:

In Australia Felder will not sell me a spiral cutter head for my C3-31.
My only option is an aftermarket version. Can anyone make recommendations here?
Thanks?
Philip?

On 15 Feb 2024, at 6:34?am, Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:

?Thank you Jonathan


Re: Retro spiral cutter head?

 

Hey

It's not only in Australia. They just don't want to sell it as an upgrade. I tried it several times (Belgium). In the end I bought mine through . It only mentions the A3-31 but it also works on the C3-31.?

Regards Bram


Op do 15 feb. 2024 14:02 schreef Roger S <rsinden@...>:
Could you get a member from a different country to get one and send to you ?

Roger

On 14 Feb 2024, at 20:46, Philip Krisanski <Philip@...> wrote:

In Australia Felder will not sell me a spiral cutter head for my C3-31.
My only option is an aftermarket version. Can anyone make recommendations here?
Thanks?
Philip?

On 15 Feb 2024, at 6:34?am, Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:

?Thank you Jonathan


Re: Felder Dado and Shaper cutter questions

 

This looks a lot like 401-136 since the belt grove is elevated. What would you consider selling it for?


Re: Retro spiral cutter head?

 

Hi Philip,

I came across there spiral heads once, but have no personal experience with?them. Have it look or contact them if they don't have the head listed you need.



Best of luck!

Cornelius Schultze-Kraft?
Cyprus?