Hi All , Thanks James for posting.?? Good deal for someone.
Correction on pricing!?
This price was mid 2019,5 years ago shipping was included,? no tax, ?I dont give my time away on freebees any more. Clamps set in US for similar Felder or new one for that matter price today is $3,300.00 UPS GR insured shipping in US? included. I just ship a job yesterday to California shipping was about $200.00 smackers. best mac,, ??
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330 cell 608-824-0023 fax
instagram.com/maccampshure/
Designing and building for 50 years
On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 02:54:47 PM CST, Jim Fleming <jameshfleming@...> wrote:
Campshure AirTight Clamps for Felder KF700, new in box with original packaging, $2700.? Packing list with description attached.? Current list price from Mac is $3300 plus tax and shipping.?
Call 925-899-1327 for details or appointment.??
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Re: Dro flipstop attachment.
I have shared it multiple times that the Chinese DRO can be ordered with sensor wire length specified.
If someone wants to take advantage of that and cannot locate previous email let me know.
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On Jan 31, 2024, at 3:44?PM, Chad75 <shouldercords@...> wrote: ?I didn't know there was a files section. That's really cool. I just uploaded a folder with all of the parts. I intended to shorten the cord leading to the reader's head on the first design, but when I broke open the casing, I found that the wires that attach to the board are 28ga and less than 2mm apart. My soldering skills aren't that good, so I designed a taller one with more room in the cavity to hold the cord. I uploaded both designs, so if your soldering skills are better than mine, the lower profile one is there also. The reader head insert file is a small insert to go in the holes on the reader head so it can be attached to the frame. You will need to run a 2mm tap through them. You can attach the bolt running through your flip stop with an 8mm heatset insert. The bolt and the insert have to align perfectly, so the insert has to go in straight, but it's not a problem if you use good inserts. The two holes in the front are so you can fit a small #0-2 screwdriver through to tighten the screws. The screws I used are McMaster Carr # 91305A102 and the heatset inserts are #94180A386. The mag tape insert file is for helping to align the tape in the center of the tracking.?
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Campshure AirTight Clamps for Felder KF700, new in box with original packaging, $2700.? Packing list with description attached.? Current list price from Mac is $3300 plus tax and shipping.?
Call 925-899-1327 for details or appointment.??
|
Re: Dro flipstop attachment.
I didn't know there was a files section. That's really cool. I just uploaded a folder with all of the parts. I intended to shorten the cord leading to the reader's head on the first design, but when I broke open the casing, I found that the wires that attach to the board are 28ga and less than 2mm apart. My soldering skills aren't that good, so I designed a taller one with more room in the cavity to hold the cord. I uploaded both designs, so if your soldering skills are better than mine, the lower profile one is there also. The reader head insert file is a small insert to go in the holes on the reader head so it can be attached to the frame. You will need to run a 2mm tap through them. You can attach the bolt running through your flip stop with an 8mm heatset insert. The bolt and the insert have to align perfectly, so the insert has to go in straight, but it's not a problem if you use good inserts. The two holes in the front are so you can fit a small #0-2 screwdriver through to tighten the screws. The screws I used are McMaster Carr # 91305A102 and the heatset inserts are #94180A386. The mag tape insert file is for helping to align the tape in the center of the tracking.?
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
for years I have not had a mitre saw because everything was cut on the slider, recently I have added a mitre saw back to the workshop because I cant easily cut anything under 200mm on the slider..?
but most of the time the Omga is just cutting firewood...?
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
I second all Rich¡¯s points. Especially aluminum flake going into the dust collector system.
--
Daniel Day
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Sheet good recommendations
Thanks Jonathan and David,
I¡¯ve had JoinerCAD for a few months, I¡¯m pretty familiar with it. It definitely speeds up carcass and shelf creation, but it still requires the drudgery of importing STP files for each different connector. It also still requires you to physically place the connectors on the model rather than adapt to add the correct hardware spacing (or even type)
Windows 11 is ghastly¡.. I don¡¯t like going between the two operating systems at all. I¡¯m seriously considering just committing to a single design language on furniture and cabinets so that I can just use my models in Fusion and use my Mac. Obviously this move would mean less business, but at least I wouldn¡¯t have to try to find hinges I¡¯ve never heard of for fussy designers.
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On Jan 31, 2024, at 1:41 PM, Jonathan Martens <jonathan@...> wrote:
On 29-1-2024 23:12, David P. Best wrote:
There is one add-on that you might want to explore. It¡¯s a licensed extension called CS Furniture Tools:
<> As an addition to David's suggestion, this might be another to suit your needs:
Ran into this Youtube video showing some of it's capabilities and although I not that familiar with Fusion 360 (still cannot warrant the cost for hobby use), nor the plugin it seems fit at first glance:
Here is their Youtube channel with more show cases: , there is even a video on explaining how to create a autmated way of placing rafix S20 connectors:
Kind regards,
Jonathan
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Re: Sheet good recommendations
On 29-1-2024 23:12, David P. Best wrote: There is one add-on that you might want to explore. ?It¡¯s a licensed extension called CS Furniture Tools:
<> As an addition to David's suggestion, this might be another to suit your needs: Ran into this Youtube video showing some of it's capabilities and although I not that familiar with Fusion 360 (still cannot warrant the cost for hobby use), nor the plugin it seems fit at first glance: Here is their Youtube channel with more show cases: , there is even a video on explaining how to create a autmated way of placing rafix S20 connectors: Kind regards, Jonathan
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Re: Sheet good recommendations
Thanks David,
The spreadsheets are exactly what I am trying to develop! I will taking an in-depth look at your post and try to write one for my project.?
I appreciate your offer to DM and I will take up on that as I proceed.
Tim Pond
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Re: Dro flipstop attachment.
Chad that micro adjust you designed is really cool! Would love to see images and feed back?on the finished article.
I'm interested in the STL.? You should be able to upload that into the Files section here on the FOG.
Is that the LP02 model?? That's the one I used on my rip fence DRO.? I made a housing out of 1/4" MDF because it was quick and easy.? I spray painted it a color that closely matches the fence housing.
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
On Wed, Jan 31, 2024 at 08:26 AM, Larry Long Neck wrote:
I've used mine alot for cutting crown mouldings in their "nested" position between the miter saw base and fence to avoid having to do compound miters. Not sure how easy this would be on a slider (I have a sawstop with large sliding table instead of a proper euro slider ?). Especially for like 16 ft long crown pieces... might be awkward?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
I sold my compound-miter-saw setup once I got my Felder slider.? I have done angled crosscuts on crown-moulding type boards with the slider.? You can do them, but it doesn't work quite as well.? If you are doing a leading cut (i.e. material behind the fence and the fence angle pulled back), it works, but there is chatter on the blade because the board flexes/wobbles.? You have to go slow.? It works better if you do a trailing cut (move the fence back and put the wood in front of the fence). I hated using my SCMS because it was heavy (60-70lbs) and was a hassle to lug around and position.? If I have a need to do a crown-moulding type project, I would just buy something like a 10" Metabo standard miter (not sliding).? It weighs in at only 26 lbs! -Aaron
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Re: Dro flipstop attachment.
I'm interested in the STL.? You should be able to upload that into the Files section here on the FOG.
Is that the LP02 model?? That's the one I used on my rip fence DRO.? I made a housing out of 1/4" MDF because it was quick and easy.? I spray painted it a color that closely matches the fence housing.
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
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To answer PK¡¯s poll ¨C 3 & 4.
Every tool has its place.? Things I use a miter saw for:
-? Cutting baseboard, window and door casings.? Much easier to handle a 16¡¯ run of baseboard on a miter saw
-? Cutting aluminum, UHMW, anything where I don¡¯t want the cuttings to get down into the slider & DC system, where they are hard to clean, or potentially dangerous.
-? Doing a quick cut, where I can just use the Festool vac hooked up to the miter, and not run the DC system.
-? Working outside. My miter station is on casters, I can wheel it out on nice days & work outside.
-? Anytime I want to bring the tool to the work, decks, pergolas, sheds, raised garden beds, flooring, on & on.
Agreed, sliders are great, (& so are miters).??? Cheers . . .
?
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Hi everyone. I designed a simple enclosure for the cheap Chinese DRO on AliExpress. I've been using it for a few weeks and it works well and is accurate. If anyone wants the STL, let me know. I also designed a fully functioning one with a micro adjust. I was initially going to have the entire thing machined from aluminum, but after printing some carbon fiber nylon for another part, I think it might be strong enough to use for the body. I printed a mockup using a bearing where the shoulder bolt enters the body to align the paddle and a heavy heatset insert behind it to secure it, and it seemed to work well. There's no way I can print a flat and square paddle, so I ordered one machined on Xometry. I used the international option because it's less than half the cost. I've used offshore milling before, and the results are just as good, but it?takes about a month to arrive. I would much rather support domestic work, but the project would not be feasible if I did. The paddle costs $160; if I need the body, it will cost another $210. That puts the entire cost of machining, the DRO, and hardware right around $500. I know it's not even in the same league as the OEM Felder or Brian's version, but for the price, it will meet my needs. I've used cheap DROs in the past for a couple of things and was surprised at the accuracy. They don't have all of the presets and options of the Fiama, but they work well for being almost 1/10 the cost.?  
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
To answer PK¡¯s poll ¨C 3 & 4.
Every tool has its place.? Things I use a miter saw for:
-? Cutting baseboard, window and door casings.? Much easier to handle a 16¡¯ run of baseboard on a miter saw
-? Cutting aluminum, UHMW, anything where I don¡¯t want the cuttings to get down into the slider & DC system, where they are hard to clean, or potentially dangerous.
-? Doing a quick cut, where I can just use the Festool vac hooked up to the miter, and not run the DC system.
-? Working outside. My miter station is on casters, I can wheel it out on nice days & work outside.
-? Anytime I want to bring the tool to the work, decks, pergolas, sheds, raised garden beds, flooring, on & on.
Agreed, sliders are great, (& so are miters).??? Cheers . . .
?
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
My compound miter saw is in a large workstation built just for it. It is over 30 years old and is still quite precise. The detente for angles are right on. I have the dust collection issue resolved. It is accurate and simple, so I use it frequently.
If a long board is warped or twisted just a little it drags on the slider. Breaking it down with the miter saw is a little less sensitive to warp and twist, and I don¡¯t have to pull out a Skil saw or hand saw.
Come to think of it, I¡¯ve never cut an angle on my slider.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
I've used mine alot for cutting crown mouldings in their "nested" position between the miter saw base and fence to avoid having to do compound miters. Not sure how easy this would be on a slider (I have a sawstop with large sliding table instead of a proper euro slider ?). Especially for like 16 ft long crown pieces... might be awkward?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
Please add never had one!
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 31, 2024, at 6:12?AM, Jim Dayton <jd74914@...> wrote:
? How else do you cut a bunch of 2x10¡¯s? SCMS is indepensible for rough work.?
Inside the shop I never use one-if I have to cut long stuff I do to my radial arm saw (I know, I know, the horror).? ? On Wed, Jan 31, 2024 at 6:39?AM Bill Hope < hope.we@...> wrote: I use mine for compound cuts on awkward stock like quarter rounds.
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
I kept it for work outside the shop, in the shop I use it for quick cuts that don¡¯t need precision. It is rarely needed though to where it¡¯s just taking up space and was thinking of getting the small Milwaukee m18 mitre saw
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Re: Felder Bf6-31 compact. Motor brake gone pop
That¡¯s encouraging, I¡¯ll let you know the outcome in a ?few days when my brother pops over to help out.?
Thanks?
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On 31 Jan 2024, at 12:16, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Alex, Larger one is the start cap and the symptoms match. So hoping all will work once you replace it ?
On Jan 31, 2024, at 7:08?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran, there is no visible evidence on the capacitors. I replaced the smaller one a while back which exploded and caught fire. I bought replacements for both but only replaced the defective one. I¡¯ll now replace the larger one and hope
it works. Many thanks for your help.?
Best regards?
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 17:49, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Thanks for the details. I hope the cap replacement fixes your issue. Hopefully you have replacement for both of them. If not look for one with a popped end. If no visual evidence, I would replace CA first as that is the start capacitor. It should be the
larger in value, assuming they are not same. If they are same value, you will need to beep their connections relative to the wiring diagram to find out which is CA and CB. Would be nice if they are labeled. Good luck.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 12:10?PM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Imran, it¡¯s difficult to describe the symptoms as initially there was a grunting straining ?sound that seemed like a braking hum and it tripped the rcd. I turned it on again, the saw started, then the stop switch failed to operate instantly,
then when it did the motor stopped quite violently but the braking didn¡¯t switch itself off, it tripped the rcd. Now none of the motors run, I just get a laboured hum. I¡¯ll get the capacitor replaced and see what happens. Many thanks
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 15:13, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Alex,
Sure, from your original post, I thought you were having braking issue, i.e. RCD trip at turn off during braking. But if the motors don¡¯t run then replacing caps should help. Once motors are running and the RCD trips during braking we can look into it.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
I have another couple of diagrams which maybe could help. I didn¡¯t send them as didn¡¯t want to complicate. ?The machine was manufactured in 1999. The motors do not run, just lots of hum before the rcd trips. I¡¯m just going to fit the new capacitor
. Cheers?
Alex
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On 30 Jan 2024, at 14:51, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
Correct, this schematic is for 2KW but for one w/o brake function. If the motors are starting up and running normally then capacitors are good.
My schematic has a date (bottom left) 15.09.1994. I cannot read the date on your schematic but I assume it is older because your machine does not show the low voltage transformer. So all switches are 220VAC vs ~24VAC in newer machines including the schematic
I have dated 1994.
If you machine has/had braking function then the schematic is not correct. I was fine for capacitors purpose. You should request a sch for your machine with brake function.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 9:24?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi Imran,?
I¡¯ve managed to find the big book, but it¡¯s only a spare parts book. However a capacitor replacement a while back (just one replaced) instigated a request for the wiring diagram from felder for this 2kw machine : ?I will replace the other capacitor
which I have to see if that rectifies the problem when I get time and see where we go from there.?
Thanks?
Alex
<image1.jpeg>
On 28 Jan 2024, at 14:46, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? No Worries Alex. Is your machine ~5KW? If so, I see Y-D start which adds more relays; K4 is one of them. There is no K4 in the first schematic I shared which was for a 2KW machine.
Do you have the big book of your machine? The schematics and other important info is in there. Here are couple of shots to show you what is in the book that I have.
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
If you do not have the machine book with wiring diagram info as shown above, I suggest you contact Felder and get a copy. They may be able to guide you as well as to the location of the relays.
The pics you shared are not very sharp. Appears there is at least one more relay by the selector switch. Still it would be difficult to guide you because I do not know where these are located and for that matter if my schematic matches your machine in
the first place.
Once you have the wiring diagram and you poke around a bit more to try to locate components, I can try to help.
Imran Malik
On Jan 28, 2024, at 4:48?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran,?
Sorry for the late response, just found your message in my junk ! Thanks for the wiring diagram , most useful as I seem to have misplaced mine. Looking on the circuit board, I could only find K1 and K4 and the other connecting block visible from the top
where the capacitors feed into. There is nothing on the circuit board where the K2 and K3 markings are. Do you know if the circuit board is serviceable or do I replace the whole unit ??
Thanks?
Alex
On 23 Jan 2024, at 23:50, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Yes, a wiring diagram. Sharing what I have but you should have a copy of yours. Now a days, it is placed in a pouch on the inside face of the electrical cabinet cover but not sure what they did back then.
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On Jan 23, 2024, at 5:59?PM, alexmoore4@... wrote:
?Hello Imran,
thanks for your kind response. ?I¡¯ll have a look for those components you mention tomorrow. I¡¯m not an electrician, although my brother is and if I can make it easier for him, all the better. I¡¯m guessing a schematic is a wiring diagram ?
Many thanks?
Alex
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imran
Jim Fleming
Albert Lee
DanielD
Jonathan Martens
Brian
Larry Long Neck