Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Imperial is good enough for the girls I go out with. ?But, I’d have to check to see what my wife prefers. ???
Wade
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On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:20?PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
<Which is better.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I was brought up on Imperial but use metric for woodworking. ? That all works fine but if someone says that there was 10cm of snow, I struggle to visualise it. ?
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I've switched to metric and I encourage everyone I know to do the same. You get 1/25.4" of precision before you need to use decimals/fractions, which is plenty for most woodworking projects.
Plus, it takes less energy to say "31 mil" than "an inch and a quarter" ??
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I've switched to metric and I encourage everyone I know to do the same. You get 1/25.4" of precision before you need to use decimals/fractions, which is plenty for most woodworking projects.
Plus, it takes less energy to say "31 mil" than "an inch and a quarter" ??
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I work primarily in imperial units. With calipers and DRO displays it is easy to work with decimal inches. The exception is my 12” rule, which is graduated in 1/32” and 1/64” on one side, and mm and half-mm on the other. The 1/32” graduations are hard to read and the 1/64” scale is just a grey blur, so I often turn to the metric side. Mm and half-mm are easier to read and entirely sufficient.
Like Mac says, every stick is milled on all surfaces anyway, so there is no particular advantage to using one system of units over the other. Hardware is a different story, as here in the USA hinges, latches, screws, etc are most often sized to imperial dimensions.
As a side note, the US government made a big push for metric measurements years ago. The Federal Highway Administration required all construction plans and specifications to be in metric units. I designed a large bridge rehabilitation project, and had to convert the measurements from the old plans from imperial to metric for the rehab project. 10 years later I designed a follow-on project on that same bridge, but by this time FHWA had given up on metric and I had to convert my previous drawings from metric back to imperial. Both times the conversion was a pain in the neck.
Thinking in metric lengths was easy to pick up. I never did get comfortable with metric forces or pressures.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I am the same. ?I find I make fewer errors and for me the math is easier :)
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[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: change metric to imperial (spelling correction)]
I switched to metric. It solves so many problems for me, and creates more precision in my work. I occasionally find that I think about space in imperial to “get a ballpark” ie the room is roughly 21x21 - but for layout and cutting etc it’s all metric.?
Conversion is a loser in my view. ? It only breeds error. ?
?
Work in one or the other. ?
?
D
Sent from my iEye
Bird,?
I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference.
Getting pre sized stuff is very risky .
Mac,,
?
?
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:27?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
<image0.jpeg>
?
OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
?
?
<Which is better.jpeg>
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps < birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend
has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
?
?
-- Michael Marsico
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I switched to metric. It solves so many problems for me, and creates more precision in my work. I occasionally find that I think about space in imperial to “get a ballpark” ie the room is roughly 21x21 - but for layout and cutting etc it’s all metric.?
Conversion is a loser in my view. ? It only breeds error. ?
?
Work in one or the other. ?
?
D
Sent from my iEye
Bird,?
I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference.
Getting pre sized stuff is very risky .
Mac,,
?
?
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:27?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
<image0.jpeg>
?
OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
?
?
<Which is better.jpeg>
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps < birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
?
?
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Sheet good recommendations
Hi folks,
??? I'm about to embark on a project to build a series of modular
bookcases.? (To be clear, my projects move slow and are for
personal use . . . I may be working on this into 2026.? Sigh).?
The basic design is simple box out of 3/4" ply, with a 1/2" back.?
Rabbets on the top and back, dado for the bottom shelf.? There
will be a face frame on the front, with glass doors. The plan is
adjustable shelves.? I'm debating between sawtooth supports,
commercial supports, and something custom where I use my ancient
CNC machine to cut pockets that the shelf supports will rest on.?
The shelves will have a solid edging with a lip to stiffen them,
probably attached with a few dominoes.
??? Here's a basic rendering:
??? For the interior units, I may just pocket screw the face
frame on.? For the end units I'll probably use dominoes so there
is nothing exposed.
??? These will stack to form a library wall that will be 12 feet
tall and 18 feet wide.? I didn't bother to show the toe-kick /
base that will be built on site.? There will be a library ladder
that will allow access to the upper units:
??? I've started looking at what material I want to use for
this.?? I'm based near Spokane, Washington.? My local suppliers
are able to get materials from Columbia, Murphy, States, and
Timber Products.? They can get materials from other vendors as
well, but these seem to the big ones.
??? I've used ApplyPly, Baltic Birch, and shop grade panels in
the past.? While I like the price of cheaper imported panels, some
shop grade birch I bought years ago was put together with bondo
(or something similar) internally and destroyed some good
cutters.? I'd rather by better materials and not have to fight
with them or damage my cutters.
??? Here are my questions:
- What kind of core would you get for this application???
- Should I stick with a veneer core???
- Is there an advantage (or disadvantage) to the various
hybrid cores?? (I'm not sure I care whether the panels are
dead flat, and I'm generally suspicious of MDF)
- If you've worked with materials from any of these
manufacturers, are there materials that you would recommend, or
specifically avoid?
??? I would also welcome any general advise on the best way to
approach this project.
???
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Conversion is a loser in my view. ? It only breeds error. ?
Work in one or the other. ?
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On Jan 28, 2024, at 3:42 PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Bird,? I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference. Getting pre sized stuff is very risky . Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:27?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? <image0.jpeg> On Jan 28, 2024, at 13:20, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
<Which is better.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Bird,? I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference. Getting pre sized stuff is very risky . Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:27?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? <image0.jpeg> On Jan 28, 2024, at 13:20, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
<Which is better.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
|
Re: Blade Guard for K3 Winner
On Sat, Jan 27, 2024 at 05:09 PM, John Hinman wrote:
Can you lower the riving knife? It does not need to be above the blade.
No, you cannot lower the blade guard-holding riving knife because that top section is where the blade guard is mounted.? If you set it too low then the piece you are cutting will run into the knob that holds the guard in place.
I have the Harvey shark S-12S guard and a Ramon Valdez zero insert.? Both work great
I have both of these as well.? The Harvey guard is an overarm guard, similar to the Grizzly one that someone else linked, however a bit more "fancy" (and more expensive) and with a different mounting setup.? It works pretty well, however for my basement shop the DC pipe that leads into the guard has to take a circuitous route and that almost certainly hinders its performance. Ramon's zero clearance insert is also very nice.
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Hi Bird,?
?The vast majority of my shaper tooling is from Rangate, and therefore metric. It's been my experience that I have no issues working to Imperial measurements. The tooling usually includes a set of shims in 0.1mm (0.004", or 1/256") increments, so it's easy to hit a measurement. When working with Imperial, I usually convert the Imperial to metric (all of my processes are metric), then go from there. So, for instance, the first thing I'd do is convert 3/4" to metric (19mm), from there it plays nice with the tooling and the math is much easier.?
?Hope this helps,?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
 On Jan 28, 2024, at 13:20, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
<Which is better.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
|
Switching between imperial and metric
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
|
Re: Basic spindle moulder usage question
Dave, please don’t ever stop “being dumb” and posting questions. I’m following along and appreciate what you’ve posted. Yes, some of the people here have considerable experience and knowledge but there are also people like me who are counting the numbers of times I’ve used a spindle moulder on one hand. (May get to the second hand this week.)
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Thanks Rod,
You (and Brett, by PM) have made me realise that I was being dumb.
I was tackling it in the same way as running a profile: fitting a false fence, breaking through, and not worrying about whether the fences were parallel to the slider axis; then using a stop on the cross fence to set the cut position - it's sort-of embarrassing to confess that. Now that you've opened my eyes it's clearly better to set the fences parallel to the slider (so they can be used as a reference, and (possibly) not to bother with a false fence.?
?
That's one of my unknown unknowns converted to a known known ... unfortunately infinity minus one is still infinity ;-)
?
Thanks again,
Dave
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Re: Felder KF 700, Format 4 Dual and related Tools for Sale
As a last minute correction, it seems "Jay" is unavailable on an out-of-town project.? Please direct inquiries to Linda at 925-899-1327. Apologies for any confusion. ? ? ?Jim ? ??
James H. Fleming
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Re: Interesting Feeder for Smaller Saws and Router Table
Here is a YouTube review...
PK
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Re: Interesting Feeder for Smaller Saws and Router Table
Hi Ronnie,
Weird, works for me but good to have another option ?
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On Jan 28, 2024, at 9:55?AM, Ronnie <picktool@...> wrote: ?Imran... link goes bunk
Ronnie
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Re: Interesting Feeder for Smaller Saws and Router Table
Imran... link goes bunk
Ronnie
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Interesting Feeder for Smaller Saws and Router Table
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Larry Long Neck
Tom Gensmer
Bill Belanger
David P. Best
Jim Fleming
PK
imran