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Re: Blade Guard for K3 Winner
On Sun, Jan 28, 2024 at 07:28 PM, Aaron Inami wrote:
Can you switch around the side windows on the Harvey Shark blade guard so that the expanded window is on the right side (to allow for Hammer right-tilt blades)?
Yes.? It comes with 2 "flat" side windows and 1 "expanded" window.? They come on and off without tools, and can go on either side.? I leave both flat ones on 99% of the time and have only installed the expanded one a few times when needed.
|
Re: Blade Guard for K3 Winner
On Sat, Jan 27, 2024 at 05:05 PM, joe slater wrote:
I have the Harvey shark S-12S guard and a Ramon Valdez zero insert.? Both work great
--
Joe Slater
michigan
Joe - Can you switch around the side windows on the Harvey Shark blade guard so that the expanded window is on the right side (to allow for Hammer right-tilt blades)? -Aaron
|
Re: Sheet good recommendations
Hi Michael:
?
This looks like a great project. I note that the main thrust of your post is about board product selection, which I can’t help you with as I’m based in Australia. However, there are some similarities to your
project with a solid wood library fit-out I did in 2016 and thought perhaps I could provide some inspiration.
?
Some feedback on your description:
?
Half inch back
I would increase this to a 3/4” back. Half inch does not allow for reliable rebate + glue + screw from the case sides, nor does it provide a “life-time” robust back that will not bow, warp, separate (etc.)
from the cabinet back over time. It looks clear that you will be installing your library units permanently (reference to building a base onsite, plus the ladder usually needs something that ain’t moving), which means you’ll want to level the base and install
the case units plumb with a wall that will most certainly not be flat or plumb itself. This means you’ll have gaps (sometimes largish gaps) behind a significant portion of your installation. If the backs somehow delaminate from your case sides, there is no
scope whatsoever for rectifications. I would not want to take such a risk with 1/2” material.
?
Adjustable shelves
Adjustable shelves are nice, but I would counsel against them for a library of this size. Fixed shelving makes each case unit much stronger, and the fact that you can nail/screw the back into each shelf is
a bonus. The library I did was only 2850mm high, so not quite as tall as your project but mine had an aggregate width much wider than your 18’. For a library of this size, in my opinion, complete freedom to arrange books with maximum flexibility is most desirable.
Yes you’ll pack in more books if you size shelving exactly for novels, and shelving for a reference collection, but I’d rather miss out on a little saving of space for the flexibility of arranging books in whatever way you or the client wants. I tried to counsel
my client to have a very large shelf at the bottom (350-400mm tall) but it was rejected for a uniform 300mm spacing between all shelving. I’d be happy to share detailed plans with you offsite if that is helpful.
?
Unit widths
You don’t reference the width of your units, but I suspect they are much wider than I would typically recommend. I have found that even with a substantial stiffener, unsupported shelving spans of more than
900mm always sag without steel reinforcement. I have made dozens of bookcases over the decades, from 1200mm, 900mm, 800mm, 700mm, and 600mm widths. You probably have too and I don’t mean to sh4t on your own experiences. For bookcases which absolutely
must have wider shelves, I incorporate an upright which is housed into the front of each shelf, directly behind the two doors. This upright still allows books to stack on the shelves unbroken (behind the upright), and said upright is invisible when the doors
are closed. This upright can be installed with fixed or movable shelving. For the 2016 library, I settled on 600mm widths. This was narrower than the client wanted, but the shelves exhibit minimal sag year after year. Something to consider.
?
Unit depths
Again, I know you didn’t ask, so forgive me for answering the unasked questions (David B. knows I specialise in these sorts of answers! LOL), but most designers (not necessarily you) make bookcases which are
too deep. Almost all books fit on a 200mm or 8” depth shelf. Yes, there are some that require 220mm or more, but these are fairly rare. Now most bookcases are 300mm deep because the designer is working towards a “one size fit all” solution, and also because
most bookcases are freestanding and need a wider (deeper) base. In your case, with fixed units, you have more choice to reduce the depth of your unit. 200mm would be radical. For my client, I chose a unit depth of 250 and a shelf depth of 210mm (with a 20mm
back) which was perfect (IMO). That said, your shelves have doors (mine did not) so there is no scope for the odd book “sticking out”. In such a case, a 300mm deep unit might be warranted, less 20mm for doors, less 20mm for backs, for an overall shelf depth
of 260mm.
?
Ladder
My library also had a ladder and great care is needed to make sure there is sufficient strength and space for a horizontal sliding rail (unless your ladder is an independent A-frame)? I can visualise a horizontal
rail at the 2/3rds level (from the floor), more or less aligned with the solid “mezzanine” shelf on the right of your rendering? I would be happy to explore this further if relevant including pictures of my bespoke ladder.
?
Assembling units onsite
Looking at your rendering, I see that you are making many units and “stacking” them together. Definitely the right way to go. But I would look very closely at how you plan to make the installation look like
a single unit or a single installation. Very closely.
?
For example, right now you have rendered horizontal face frames which are full-width, with upright face frames captured between them. I would strongly reconsider as you will have end-grain butted up against
end-grain, and it will very difficult to get this many frames aligned to your satisfaction. The render also shows a strongly horizontal emphasis – which may be exactly what you want? I would push you to consider vertical elements, preferably full length as
a way of tying all the units together.
?
I made individual units which were flanked by hollow (constructed) columns, which might be more elaborate than you have time or space for. But you should at least consider a full-length panel to cover the
ends of your unit so the entire upright looks like one. (Don’t forget to make it extra wide so you can scribe it into the wall for a seamless look.) If you take up this advice, you’ll have a double upright on the far left of your installation. That extra thickness
can look fantastic, and fit in perfectly with your internal uprights (if you take up my option of full-length vertical elements covering case sides).
?
Currently, as you have rendered it – you have a single upright on the outer or left side of the installation, but double uprights between each unit (since each unit has its own upright). Instead: butt each
case hard up against each other, and then apply (during installation) a prefinished full-length upright to cover the exposed edges. This will allow you to have uniform vertical elements, that are say 36mm wide, at the full left, and between units.
?
I used a very large crown stapler and urethane glue to secure each unit to each other. My units had machined rebates on the front edge, read to receive the full-length vertical elements. After installation,
I glued and headless pinned the vertical face frames for a seamless look.
?
If you like, I’d be happy to take this discussion offsite and share more details. I have no vested interest whatsoever except to be helpful. Take what is helpful and ditch the rest!
? Pictures to follow.
?
Before
?
?
After
?
?
Vertical Upright Detail
?
?
Sequence of shots showing the installation of units, crown staples, and installation of uprights in machined rebates…
?
?
?
?
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
Hi folks,
??? I'm about to embark on a project to build a series of modular bookcases.? (To be clear, my projects move slow and are for personal use . . . I may be working on this into 2026.? Sigh).? The basic design is simple box out of 3/4" ply, with a 1/2" back.?
Rabbets on the top and back, dado for the bottom shelf.? There will be a face frame on the front, with glass doors. The plan is adjustable shelves.? I'm debating between sawtooth supports, commercial supports, and something custom where I use my ancient CNC
machine to cut pockets that the shelf supports will rest on.? The shelves will have a solid edging with a lip to stiffen them, probably attached with a few dominoes.
??? Here's a basic rendering:
??? For the interior units, I may just pocket screw the face frame on.? For the end units I'll probably use dominoes so there is nothing exposed.
??? These will stack to form a library wall that will be 12 feet tall and 18 feet wide.? I didn't bother to show the toe-kick / base that will be built on site.? There will be a library ladder that will allow access to the upper units:
??? I've started looking at what material I want to use for this.?? I'm based near Spokane, Washington.? My local suppliers are able to get materials from Columbia, Murphy, States, and Timber Products.? They can get materials from other vendors as well,
but these seem to the big ones.
??? I've used ApplyPly, Baltic Birch, and shop grade panels in the past.? While I like the price of cheaper imported panels, some shop grade birch I bought years ago was put together with bondo (or something similar) internally and destroyed some good cutters.?
I'd rather by better materials and not have to fight with them or damage my cutters.
??? Here are my questions:
-
What kind of core would you get for this application???
-
Should I stick with a veneer core???
-
Is there an advantage (or disadvantage) to the various hybrid cores?? (I'm not sure I care whether the panels are dead flat, and I'm generally suspicious of MDF)
-
If you've worked with materials from any of these manufacturers, are there materials that you would recommend, or specifically avoid?
??? I would also welcome any general advise on the best way to approach this project.
???
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I knew this would generate a lot of posts. ?"So cut me a style that is 13 and 7/8 light and a rail that is 22 5/16 strong.” ?LOL
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 28, 2024, at 1:33?PM, Larry Long Neck <longneckwood@...> wrote:
I've switched to metric and I encourage everyone I know to do the same. You get 1/25.4" of precision before you need to use decimals/fractions, which is plenty for most woodworking projects.
Plus, it takes less energy to say "31 mil" than "an inch and a quarter" ??
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
|
Re: Sheet good recommendations
Michael,
I do these kinds of projects all the time. ?I have learned the hard way that the best product for this is ApplePly or the equivalent from Murphy. ?Here is a link to what I normally use. ?The C-2 is Maple veneer faced which I consider paint grade, and the A-1 in this case is cherry veneer:
|
ApplePly is better if you’re doing screwed butt joints since it has more veneer cores and the internal voids are much less frequent - it behaves like hardwood in terms of screw grip. ?I have used panels with thin MDF under the veneer and find it much mroe subject to edge damage from handling in the shop. ?I have additional comments about edging and construction if you want to DM me.
Consider making your own supports like this: ??
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 28, 2024, at 1:11?PM, Michael Garrison Stuber <mtgstuber@...> wrote:
Hi folks,
??? I'm about to embark on a project to build a series of modular
bookcases.? (To be clear, my projects move slow and are for
personal use . . . I may be working on this into 2026.? Sigh).?
The basic design is simple box out of 3/4" ply, with a 1/2" back.?
Rabbets on the top and back, dado for the bottom shelf.? There
will be a face frame on the front, with glass doors. The plan is
adjustable shelves.? I'm debating between sawtooth supports,
commercial supports, and something custom where I use my ancient
CNC machine to cut pockets that the shelf supports will rest on.?
The shelves will have a solid edging with a lip to stiffen them,
probably attached with a few dominoes.
??? Here's a basic rendering:
<cv2JRzZ21fsCnEwH.png>
??? For the interior units, I may just pocket screw the face
frame on.? For the end units I'll probably use dominoes so there
is nothing exposed.
??? These will stack to form a library wall that will be 12 feet
tall and 18 feet wide.? I didn't bother to show the toe-kick /
base that will be built on site.? There will be a library ladder
that will allow access to the upper units:
<xS8n3fFrnrP08Oe0.png>
??? I've started looking at what material I want to use for
this.?? I'm based near Spokane, Washington.? My local suppliers
are able to get materials from Columbia, Murphy, States, and
Timber Products.? They can get materials from other vendors as
well, but these seem to the big ones.
??? I've used ApplyPly, Baltic Birch, and shop grade panels in
the past.? While I like the price of cheaper imported panels, some
shop grade birch I bought years ago was put together with bondo
(or something similar) internally and destroyed some good
cutters.? I'd rather by better materials and not have to fight
with them or damage my cutters.
??? Here are my questions:
- What kind of core would you get for this application???
- Should I stick with a veneer core???
- Is there an advantage (or disadvantage) to the various
hybrid cores?? (I'm not sure I care whether the panels are
dead flat, and I'm generally suspicious of MDF)
- If you've worked with materials from any of these
manufacturers, are there materials that you would recommend, or
specifically avoid?
??? I would also welcome any general advise on the best way to
approach this project.
???
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
Re: Blade Guard for K3 Winner
Can you lower the riving knife? It does not need to be above the blade.
No, you cannot lower the blade guard-holding riving knife because that top section is where the blade guard is mounted.? If you set it too low then the piece you are cutting will run into the knob that holds the guard in place.
Premium Felder engineering!
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
|
Re: Sheet good recommendations
I’ve had good luck with Columbia Classic Core. It has a thin layer of MDF under the veneer layer that makes it flatter and more consistent.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:11?PM, Michael Garrison Stuber <mtgstuber@...> wrote:
Hi folks, ??? I'm about to embark on a project to build a series of modular
bookcases.? (To be clear, my projects move slow and are for
personal use . . . I may be working on this into 2026.? Sigh).?
The basic design is simple box out of 3/4" ply, with a 1/2" back.?
Rabbets on the top and back, dado for the bottom shelf.? There
will be a face frame on the front, with glass doors. The plan is
adjustable shelves.? I'm debating between sawtooth supports,
commercial supports, and something custom where I use my ancient
CNC machine to cut pockets that the shelf supports will rest on.?
The shelves will have a solid edging with a lip to stiffen them,
probably attached with a few dominoes. ??? Here's a basic rendering: <cv2JRzZ21fsCnEwH.png> ??? For the interior units, I may just pocket screw the face
frame on.? For the end units I'll probably use dominoes so there
is nothing exposed.
??? These will stack to form a library wall that will be 12 feet
tall and 18 feet wide.? I didn't bother to show the toe-kick /
base that will be built on site.? There will be a library ladder
that will allow access to the upper units: <xS8n3fFrnrP08Oe0.png> ??? I've started looking at what material I want to use for
this.?? I'm based near Spokane, Washington.? My local suppliers
are able to get materials from Columbia, Murphy, States, and
Timber Products.? They can get materials from other vendors as
well, but these seem to the big ones.
??? I've used ApplyPly, Baltic Birch, and shop grade panels in
the past.? While I like the price of cheaper imported panels, some
shop grade birch I bought years ago was put together with bondo
(or something similar) internally and destroyed some good
cutters.? I'd rather by better materials and not have to fight
with them or damage my cutters.
??? Here are my questions:
- What kind of core would you get for this application???
- Should I stick with a veneer core???
- Is there an advantage (or disadvantage) to the various
hybrid cores?? (I'm not sure I care whether the panels are
dead flat, and I'm generally suspicious of MDF)
- If you've worked with materials from any of these
manufacturers, are there materials that you would recommend, or
specifically avoid?
??? I would also welcome any general advise on the best way to
approach this project.
???
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Andy,
I haven't made the conversion yet (still considering it along with my adult woodworking son who I have discussed it with) but, as you mention, I think in imperial when gauging how big something is (this comes from 67 years using imperial over metric). I can go to a ballpark and look to center field and think..."that looks like about 400' to deep center" but would have trouble visualizing it as 120 meters. I'd probably be wrong on the 400' but I bet I would be "in the ballpark"...pun intended.
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Imperial is good enough for the girls I go out with. ?But, I’d have to check to see what my wife prefers. ???
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:20?PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
<Which is better.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I was brought up on Imperial but use metric for woodworking. ? That all works fine but if someone says that there was 10cm of snow, I struggle to visualise it. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I've switched to metric and I encourage everyone I know to do the same. You get 1/25.4" of precision before you need to use decimals/fractions, which is plenty for most woodworking projects.
Plus, it takes less energy to say "31 mil" than "an inch and a quarter" ??
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I've switched to metric and I encourage everyone I know to do the same. You get 1/25.4" of precision before you need to use decimals/fractions, which is plenty for most woodworking projects.
Plus, it takes less energy to say "31 mil" than "an inch and a quarter" ??
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I work primarily in imperial units. With calipers and DRO displays it is easy to work with decimal inches. The exception is my 12” rule, which is graduated in 1/32” and 1/64” on one side, and mm and half-mm on the other. The 1/32” graduations are hard to read and the 1/64” scale is just a grey blur, so I often turn to the metric side. Mm and half-mm are easier to read and entirely sufficient.
Like Mac says, every stick is milled on all surfaces anyway, so there is no particular advantage to using one system of units over the other. Hardware is a different story, as here in the USA hinges, latches, screws, etc are most often sized to imperial dimensions.
As a side note, the US government made a big push for metric measurements years ago. The Federal Highway Administration required all construction plans and specifications to be in metric units. I designed a large bridge rehabilitation project, and had to convert the measurements from the old plans from imperial to metric for the rehab project. 10 years later I designed a follow-on project on that same bridge, but by this time FHWA had given up on metric and I had to convert my previous drawings from metric back to imperial. Both times the conversion was a pain in the neck.
Thinking in metric lengths was easy to pick up. I never did get comfortable with metric forces or pressures.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I am the same. ?I find I make fewer errors and for me the math is easier :)
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: change metric to imperial (spelling correction)]
I switched to metric. It solves so many problems for me, and creates more precision in my work. I occasionally find that I think about space in imperial to “get a ballpark” ie the room is roughly 21x21 - but for layout and cutting etc it’s all metric.?
Conversion is a loser in my view. ? It only breeds error. ?
?
Work in one or the other. ?
?
D
Sent from my iEye
Bird,?
I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference.
Getting pre sized stuff is very risky .
Mac,,
?
?
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:27?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
<image0.jpeg>
?
OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
?
?
<Which is better.jpeg>
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps < birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend
has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
?
?
-- Michael Marsico
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
I switched to metric. It solves so many problems for me, and creates more precision in my work. I occasionally find that I think about space in imperial to “get a ballpark” ie the room is roughly 21x21 - but for layout and cutting etc it’s all metric.?
Conversion is a loser in my view. ? It only breeds error. ?
?
Work in one or the other. ?
?
D
Sent from my iEye
Bird,?
I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference.
Getting pre sized stuff is very risky .
Mac,,
?
?
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:27?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
<image0.jpeg>
?
OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
?
?
<Which is better.jpeg>
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps < birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
?
?
|
Sheet good recommendations
Hi folks,
??? I'm about to embark on a project to build a series of modular
bookcases.? (To be clear, my projects move slow and are for
personal use . . . I may be working on this into 2026.? Sigh).?
The basic design is simple box out of 3/4" ply, with a 1/2" back.?
Rabbets on the top and back, dado for the bottom shelf.? There
will be a face frame on the front, with glass doors. The plan is
adjustable shelves.? I'm debating between sawtooth supports,
commercial supports, and something custom where I use my ancient
CNC machine to cut pockets that the shelf supports will rest on.?
The shelves will have a solid edging with a lip to stiffen them,
probably attached with a few dominoes.
??? Here's a basic rendering:
??? For the interior units, I may just pocket screw the face
frame on.? For the end units I'll probably use dominoes so there
is nothing exposed.
??? These will stack to form a library wall that will be 12 feet
tall and 18 feet wide.? I didn't bother to show the toe-kick /
base that will be built on site.? There will be a library ladder
that will allow access to the upper units:
??? I've started looking at what material I want to use for
this.?? I'm based near Spokane, Washington.? My local suppliers
are able to get materials from Columbia, Murphy, States, and
Timber Products.? They can get materials from other vendors as
well, but these seem to the big ones.
??? I've used ApplyPly, Baltic Birch, and shop grade panels in
the past.? While I like the price of cheaper imported panels, some
shop grade birch I bought years ago was put together with bondo
(or something similar) internally and destroyed some good
cutters.? I'd rather by better materials and not have to fight
with them or damage my cutters.
??? Here are my questions:
- What kind of core would you get for this application???
- Should I stick with a veneer core???
- Is there an advantage (or disadvantage) to the various
hybrid cores?? (I'm not sure I care whether the panels are
dead flat, and I'm generally suspicious of MDF)
- If you've worked with materials from any of these
manufacturers, are there materials that you would recommend, or
specifically avoid?
??? I would also welcome any general advise on the best way to
approach this project.
???
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Conversion is a loser in my view. ? It only breeds error. ?
Work in one or the other. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 28, 2024, at 3:42 PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Bird,? I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference. Getting pre sized stuff is very risky . Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:27?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? <image0.jpeg> On Jan 28, 2024, at 13:20, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
<Which is better.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
|
Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Bird,? I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference. Getting pre sized stuff is very risky . Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 28, 2024, at 2:27?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? <image0.jpeg> On Jan 28, 2024, at 13:20, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
<Which is better.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
|
Re: Blade Guard for K3 Winner
On Sat, Jan 27, 2024 at 05:09 PM, John Hinman wrote:
Can you lower the riving knife? It does not need to be above the blade.
No, you cannot lower the blade guard-holding riving knife because that top section is where the blade guard is mounted.? If you set it too low then the piece you are cutting will run into the knob that holds the guard in place.
I have the Harvey shark S-12S guard and a Ramon Valdez zero insert.? Both work great
I have both of these as well.? The Harvey guard is an overarm guard, similar to the Grizzly one that someone else linked, however a bit more "fancy" (and more expensive) and with a different mounting setup.? It works pretty well, however for my basement shop the DC pipe that leads into the guard has to take a circuitous route and that almost certainly hinders its performance. Ramon's zero clearance insert is also very nice.
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
Hi Bird,?
?The vast majority of my shaper tooling is from Rangate, and therefore metric. It's been my experience that I have no issues working to Imperial measurements. The tooling usually includes a set of shims in 0.1mm (0.004", or 1/256") increments, so it's easy to hit a measurement. When working with Imperial, I usually convert the Imperial to metric (all of my processes are metric), then go from there. So, for instance, the first thing I'd do is convert 3/4" to metric (19mm), from there it plays nice with the tooling and the math is much easier.?
?Hope this helps,?
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Switching between imperial and metric
 On Jan 28, 2024, at 13:20, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. ? LOL
<Which is better.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 28, 2024, at 12:06?PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working in the world of imperial measurements. For example, a friend has provided me with 3/4’’ stock to use for cabinet doors. I’m thinking of buying an adjustable groover, but if it’s metric then I’ll start having issues if the stock I’m working with was cut to imperial dimensions first.
Thoughts?
Bird
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David Luckensmeyer
David P. Best
Larry
Larry Long Neck
Tom Gensmer
Bill Belanger