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I had that same machine and really liked it. I upgraded to a Martin the cast iron table finish was polished on the Felder less so on the Martin, the fence on A951L is way better than the other Felder models more rigidity and the power feeder mount bracket/integrated wiring is very nice to have. The Martin is 2x the price but not 2x as good perhaps long term that will prove to be wrong.? A951 is a very nice machine .

Jay Bowen
Cleveland

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Joe,

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Thanks Joe call it what it is ST

Imran,
Yes to keep the workpiece from either binding or coming away from the fence. Slot and tenon and through tenon the tenon length is critical to avoid clamping problems. Even when the fence is parallel you can still get some variation.

I've talked about this a number of times over the years, but maybe not here.

If you are aiming for a "rule of thirds" scenario, it can be hard to accomplish with just one Adjustable Groover. ?Typically the minimum groove width that a set can do is AT or often a little wider than the maximum shoulder you could do when you split the set and use it as a tenon tooling to do both cheeks and shoulders at the same time. ?The two components when nested together don't always completely hide behind each other when stacked for minimum groove (ie no shims) and thus the minimum groove can actually a little wider than each individual component that will be used to form the two cheeks and shoulders. ?The different manufacturers make them slightly differently, so this isn't always the case, but even if it isn't, you'll still be really close/at the maximum shoulder height possible and is just a pain and very limiting with respect to the range of material thicknesses you can use. ?The 175x8mm fixed groover I linked to above will give you a bit over 2" DOC and is inexpensive compare to an Adjustable Groover that can do the same job, but offers zero adjustability and doesn't on its own give you a tenon solution. ?A lot of folks will use two adjustable groovers, one for the groove so they can adjust it to roughly ROTs, but also exactly match whatever tenon tooling they are using, and another thicker one to do the tenon with lots of buffer room for cheek height. ?Or they'll use one Adjustable Groover and have the groove/slot just be larger than what a perfect ROTs would say and is probably what I would do in your situation where you need the DOC (reach) that only an 8mm minimum set would offer you. ? Since you're not mortising, you don't have to worry too much about having any exacting groove width, unless panel fitment is a consideration. ?

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Hi Joe,

If you could get by with a 8mm slot that would open up more options for cutters.
Bump stop on shaper fence.

Bird, technique for slot and tenon on the shaper can be done many ways. The important thing is tenons and slots should be recessed 0.3 to 0.5 mm from the finished edge to allow for clamping. Later to be flushed up with another shaper cut or sanding flush. If using a Felder shaper and sliding table with the fence as a bump stop pieces would be cut to exact length. The fence must be perfectly parallel to the sliding table or you will get a little variation in tenon length. I use a little crowned off bolt attached to the fence to overcome this. Ideally for slot and tenon work 3 cutters are involved all the same diameter to keep setups simple. Workarounds with different diameter cutters will just involve more setup.

I ran into the same problem you have doing cabinet doors for my apartment with through tenons. My 6mm and 1/4” mortise chisels would not go deep enough for the 2 1/2” stock. I did not want to come in from each edge to do the through mortise and ended up using the 8mm chisel that goes deep. Not a perfect 1/3 construction but I was able to keep the doors 22 mm thick so it’s fine.

Bird, bridal joint or slot and tenon on 2” wide 3/4” stock presents some problems. The tenon is easy and can be accomplished several ways. The slot though is more difficult. Most adjustable groovers in the 1/4” range have shoulders that prevent the cut from going too deep. You would need at least a 160 diameter cutter to get the depth required. The 6mm Groover Brent mentioned might work but at 150 diameter I don’t think it will reach. You can see in my photos depth with a 160 diameter with spacers from a 30 mm shaft and a 1.25” shaft that usually have larger diameter spacers. It’s hard to see in catalogues if the small groovers have shoulders that limit depth of cut.
Looking around my shop I only came up with 2 cutters that would work for the slot. My Systmatic dado set that has 1.25 bore. Or a 1/4” X8”FS grooving tool that came with my SAC profiler. See the pictures. The FS groover wou be the better option. Not as great a cut as groovers with spurs but the heavy body keeps it solid and would be fine for the slot with a chip breaker.