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Come to the dark side of California :)
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David,
the metric scale on the rip fence only costs $27, ?so it isn¡¯t that expensive. I can also go with Oregon scales, but for me it looks like a modification that should be free considering this is a euro machine (this is only if I am taking the machine in stock), if I going with prebuilt one then it will be ¡°free¡±.
I intend to save the 45cm and by going with the 80cm rip fence and place it next to the wall. If the overhead will be taking that place, I don¡¯t have any insensitive to shorten the rip fence bar.
since the K3 has a limited stroke, I had to use either 5¡¯x5¡¯ sheets or cut them on the tracksaw.?
it is a good point about ripping them in half.
Fergus also said that are aggressively discount the K saw and give better builds configurations. He barley sales KF saw those days.?
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Showroom? What is this mythical creature you speak of?? Tolve construction
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On Jan 19, 2024, at 6:03 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? I spent something like hour and a half in the showroom today.
I definitely know that I don¡¯t want the shaper in the saw.? Changing from saw to a shaper is PITA and the shaper fence is heavy.
A dedicated Felder shaper will cost ~10K compare to additional 6K I would need to invest going from K to KF model.
I agree - the difference was much less a few years ago - like $3,500. ?Yes, the 240 shaper hood is heavy, but it¡¯s easy to tilt it forward onto a towel laid on the sliding table, and then off onto a wheeled cart such as the FAT 300. ?For me, the bigger hassle was the power feeder setup. it is a bit BS that if I want a machine with a metric scale I need to pay extra to get a real world measurements.
For about $20, you can buy a high quality sticky-back metric or combination metric/imperial tape. ?The Felder-supplied rule is a removable aluminum strip, so you can flip it over and apply the new tape to the back side of the aluminum strip. ?Here are some examples:
https://oregonrule.com/orc/product-category/metalrulessc/fractional-metric-metalrulessc/? A new question raise now is whether I want the saw with 800mm rip fence or 1250mm fence.
My current K3 has 800mm and I have really used the extra rip capacity, but I wonder if anyone here use the extra rip capacity??
If you do panel work you will want the ability to cut to the center of an 8-foot panel, which means you will be restricted in your saw guard choice. ?You either have to make do with the Euro saw guard that attaches to the rivving knife/splitter, or have the support post for an overhead guard positioned at the 49-inch position so a panel cut in half will clear it on the right of the blade. ?It is possible to special order a K700 with 800mm rip fence and an overhead guard post at the 1250mm position (which is what I had on my K975 and have now on my Kappa 400 xMotion), but it will mean a custom build and probably different pricing and a longer wait. ?If your panel processing needs are moderate, you can of course break down big panels with a track saw. David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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I spent something like hour and a half in the showroom today.
I definitely know that I don¡¯t want the shaper in the saw.? Changing from saw to a shaper is PITA and the shaper fence is heavy.
A dedicated Felder shaper will cost ~10K compare to additional 6K I would need to invest going from K to KF model.
I agree - the difference was much less a few years ago - like $3,500. ?Yes, the 240 shaper hood is heavy, but it¡¯s easy to tilt it forward onto a towel laid on the sliding table, and then off onto a wheeled cart such as the FAT 300. ?For me, the bigger hassle was the power feeder setup. it is a bit BS that if I want a machine with a metric scale I need to pay extra to get a real world measurements.
For about $20, you can buy a high quality sticky-back metric or combination metric/imperial tape. ?The Felder-supplied rule is a removable aluminum strip, so you can flip it over and apply the new tape to the back side of the aluminum strip. ?Here are some examples:
https://oregonrule.com/orc/product-category/metalrulessc/fractional-metric-metalrulessc/? A new question raise now is whether I want the saw with 800mm rip fence or 1250mm fence.
My current K3 has 800mm and I have really used the extra rip capacity, but I wonder if anyone here use the extra rip capacity??
If you do panel work you will want the ability to cut to the center of an 8-foot panel, which means you will be restricted in your saw guard choice. ?You either have to make do with the Euro saw guard that attaches to the rivving knife/splitter, or have the support post for an overhead guard positioned at the 49-inch position so a panel cut in half will clear it on the right of the blade. ?It is possible to special order a K700 with 800mm rip fence and an overhead guard post at the 1250mm position (which is what I had on my K975 and have now on my Kappa 400 xMotion), but it will mean a custom build and probably different pricing and a longer wait. ?If your panel processing needs are moderate, you can of course break down big panels with a track saw. David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Mac,
I¡¯ve learned so much about these machines since buying this first one and if I do it again things would be ordered differently for sure. And it wouldn¡¯t be a Felder!
Your clamps have been flawless. It¡¯s killing me to be down right now because I have sheets of plywood to process.
Wade
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On Jan 19, 2024, at 4:35?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Wade you must be bummed,? This is a machine design that is done day in and day out with very few issues the more functions built in the more can go wrong. I have motorized spindles on different machines but would never consider not having manual function with hand wheel . Strikes me as a risky concept. Having limited design abilities in motion area myself ?makes it difficult for me. Funny enough my best system was with salvaged hospital bed motors. 7.00 each if I remember I used to raise bed o n bf731¡¯s.? Trick is finding gear motors that are free wheeling enough to easily move by hand , easier they are typically the faster the gear ratio faster the speed .? For me I have only found raising large planner tables up and down to be an issue .? I have had numerous planers with power rise and fall. ? But to raise a saw blade or shaper spindle up and down a few turns has never been an issue and don¡¯t see what all the woop t do is about. I know there is a group that loves the heels and whistles? I¡¯m in the manual camp with wood machines. Know I would not consider my mills or lathes to not be other than total power in all axis . But that¡¯s a whole other ball game. I hope my clamps have given you some joy !! Good luck Wade. Best mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years On Jan 19, 2024, at 4:06?PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Hi Andy,
I¡¯m dead in the water. ?No manual or override available.
I¡¯ve just had the worst luck with their service. ?This is my third issue with the machine and each time dealing with Felder Tech has been awful! ?
I¡¯ve been lied to and misinformed by my sales person from day one and it¡¯s been down hill ever since. ?
I¡¯m starting to contemplate the selling of my two Felder pieces and just be done with them. ?
Thx,
Wade On Jan 19, 2024, at 1:53 PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? All these issues with the power drive feature. On these higher end saws is there an alternate way to raise and lower the blade (ie handwheel)?? Or are they dead in the water when the power drive goes down?? I looked briefly through the manual and pictures but I don¡¯t see a handwheel for power drive outfitted machines.?
I¡¯m slumming it with the hammer line and stuck using a handwheel like a caveman so forgive the question if it seems obvious.?
Hi James,
Hey I¡¯ve never been over to Austria, but maybe, with their twisted mind set, all of the car dealer lots have their cars up on blocks. ?
* Another side note regarding absolutely horrible Felder service on my Power Drive issue for my K700S.? Saw went down on 1/4, created service ticket on 1/5, I¡¯ve had one call regarding this issue in the last 14 days and that call entailed instructions for me to vacuum and clean out the inside of the cabinet to see if that fixes the issue of the blade not rising.? I told him it¡¯s already been done and it¡¯s spotless inside.? That was on Tuesday, no word since! ? Two weeks down and counting. ?
Thx,
Wade
? It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?
James Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
|
Wade you must be bummed,? This is a machine design that is done day in and day out with very few issues the more functions built in the more can go wrong. I have motorized spindles on different machines but would never consider not having manual function with hand wheel . Strikes me as a risky concept. Having limited design abilities in motion area myself ?makes it difficult for me. Funny enough my best system was with salvaged hospital bed motors. 7.00 each if I remember I used to raise bed o n bf731¡¯s.? Trick is finding gear motors that are free wheeling enough to easily move by hand , easier they are typically the faster the gear ratio faster the speed .? For me I have only found raising large planner tables up and down to be an issue .? I have had numerous planers with power rise and fall. ? But to raise a saw blade or shaper spindle up and down a few turns has never been an issue and don¡¯t see what all the woop t do is about. I know there is a group that loves the heels and whistles? I¡¯m in the manual camp with wood machines. Know I would not consider my mills or lathes to not be other than total power in all axis . But that¡¯s a whole other ball game. I hope my clamps have given you some joy !! Good luck Wade. Best mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 19, 2024, at 4:06?PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Hi Andy,
I¡¯m dead in the water. ?No manual or override available.
I¡¯ve just had the worst luck with their service. ?This is my third issue with the machine and each time dealing with Felder Tech has been awful! ?
I¡¯ve been lied to and misinformed by my sales person from day one and it¡¯s been down hill ever since. ?
I¡¯m starting to contemplate the selling of my two Felder pieces and just be done with them. ?
Thx,
Wade On Jan 19, 2024, at 1:53 PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? All these issues with the power drive feature. On these higher end saws is there an alternate way to raise and lower the blade (ie handwheel)?? Or are they dead in the water when the power drive goes down?? I looked briefly through the manual and pictures but I don¡¯t see a handwheel for power drive outfitted machines.?
I¡¯m slumming it with the hammer line and stuck using a handwheel like a caveman so forgive the question if it seems obvious.?
Hi James,
Hey I¡¯ve never been over to Austria, but maybe, with their twisted mind set, all of the car dealer lots have their cars up on blocks. ?
* Another side note regarding absolutely horrible Felder service on my Power Drive issue for my K700S.? Saw went down on 1/4, created service ticket on 1/5, I¡¯ve had one call regarding this issue in the last 14 days and that call entailed instructions for me to vacuum and clean out the inside of the cabinet to see if that fixes the issue of the blade not rising.? I told him it¡¯s already been done and it¡¯s spotless inside.? That was on Tuesday, no word since! ? Two weeks down and counting. ?
Thx,
Wade
? It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?
James Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
|
On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 02:05 PM, Wade Dees wrote:
?
Hi Andy,
?
I¡¯m dead in the water. ?No manual or override available.
?
I¡¯ve just had the worst luck with their service. ?This is my third issue with the machine and each time dealing with Felder Tech has been awful! ?
?
I¡¯ve been lied to and misinformed by my sales person from day one and it¡¯s been down hill ever since. ?
?
I¡¯m starting to contemplate the selling of my two Felder pieces and just be done with them. ?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
On Jan 19, 2024, at 1:53 PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
All these issues with the power drive feature. On these higher end saws is there an alternate way to raise and lower the blade (ie handwheel)?? Or are they dead in the water when the power drive goes down?? I looked briefly through the manual and pictures but I don¡¯t see a handwheel for power drive outfitted machines.?
?
I¡¯m slumming it with the hammer line and stuck using a handwheel like a caveman so forgive the question if it seems obvious.?
?
?
Hi James,
?
Hey I¡¯ve never been over to Austria, but maybe, with their twisted mind set, all of the car dealer lots have their cars up on blocks. ?
?
* Another side note regarding absolutely horrible Felder service on my Power Drive issue for my K700S.? Saw went down on 1/4, created service ticket on 1/5, I¡¯ve had one call regarding this issue in the last 14 days and that call entailed instructions for me to vacuum and clean out the inside of the cabinet to see if that fixes the issue of the blade not rising.? I told him it¡¯s already been done and it¡¯s spotless inside.?
That was on Tuesday, no word since! ?
Two weeks down and counting. ?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?
It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?
?
James
Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
?
?
?
?
?
I spent something like hour and a half in the showroom today.
I definitely know that I don¡¯t want the shaper in the saw.?
Changing from saw to a shaper is PITA and the shaper fence is heavy.
A dedicated Felder shaper will cost ~10K compare to additional 6K I would need to invest going from K to KF model.
I spoke with Phase Perfect and they assured me that I can use the 7.5HP converter. They overbuilt it, as since it is digital it can easily run at the max output.
with the 7.5HP, the saw can max draw 19A
Even the Felder 10HP machines only max out at 24A, leaving me 2A extra (In reality the machines never really get to their max draw)
I saw the K1 motorised blade. It is nice, but without the LED it doesn¡¯t really give anything.
the K2 motor with the LED has a benefit, but only for dados and it costs ~$1600
it is a bit BS that if I want a machine with a metric scale I need to pay extra to get a real world measurements.
The commission for my machine is ¡°only¡± $995 because I live close to Felder showroom.
A new question raise now is whether I want the saw with 800mm rip fence or 1250mm fence.
My current K3 has 800mm and I have really used the extra rip capacity, but I wonder if anyone here use the extra rip capacity??
|
Hi Andy,
I¡¯m dead in the water. ?No manual or override available.
I¡¯ve just had the worst luck with their service. ?This is my third issue with the machine and each time dealing with Felder Tech has been awful! ?
I¡¯ve been lied to and misinformed by my sales person from day one and it¡¯s been down hill ever since. ?
I¡¯m starting to contemplate the selling of my two Felder pieces and just be done with them. ?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 19, 2024, at 1:53 PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? All these issues with the power drive feature. On these higher end saws is there an alternate way to raise and lower the blade (ie handwheel)?? Or are they dead in the water when the power drive goes down?? I looked briefly through the manual and pictures but I don¡¯t see a handwheel for power drive outfitted machines.?
I¡¯m slumming it with the hammer line and stuck using a handwheel like a caveman so forgive the question if it seems obvious.?
Hi James,
Hey I¡¯ve never been over to Austria, but maybe, with their twisted mind set, all of the car dealer lots have their cars up on blocks. ?
* Another side note regarding absolutely horrible Felder service on my Power Drive issue for my K700S.? Saw went down on 1/4, created service ticket on 1/5, I¡¯ve had one call regarding this issue in the last 14 days and that call entailed instructions for me to vacuum and clean out the inside of the cabinet to see if that fixes the issue of the blade not rising.? I told him it¡¯s already been done and it¡¯s spotless inside.? That was on Tuesday, no word since! ? Two weeks down and counting. ?
Thx,
Wade
? It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?
James Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
|
All these issues with the power drive feature. On these higher end saws is there an alternate way to raise and lower the blade (ie handwheel)?? Or are they dead in the water when the power drive goes down?? I looked briefly through the manual and pictures but I don¡¯t see a handwheel for power drive outfitted machines.?
I¡¯m slumming it with the hammer line and stuck using a handwheel like a caveman so forgive the question if it seems obvious.?
Hi James,
Hey I¡¯ve never been over to Austria, but maybe, with their twisted mind set, all of the car dealer lots have their cars up on blocks. ?
* Another side note regarding absolutely horrible Felder service on my Power Drive issue for my K700S.? Saw went down on 1/4, created service ticket on 1/5, I¡¯ve had one call regarding this issue in the last 14 days and that call entailed instructions for me to vacuum and clean out the inside of the cabinet to see if that fixes the issue of the blade not rising.? I told him it¡¯s already been done and it¡¯s spotless inside.? That was on Tuesday, no word since! ? Two weeks down and counting. ?
Thx,
Wade
? It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?
James Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
|
Hi James,
Hey I¡¯ve never been over to Austria, but maybe, with their twisted mind set, all of the car dealer lots have their cars up on blocks. ?
* Another side note regarding absolutely horrible Felder service on my Power Drive issue for my K700S. ?Saw went down on 1/4, created service ticket on 1/5, I¡¯ve had one call regarding this issue in the last 14 days and that call entailed instructions for me to vacuum and clean out the inside of the cabinet to see if that fixes the issue of the blade not rising. ?I told him it¡¯s already been done and it¡¯s spotless inside.? That was on Tuesday, no word since! ? Two weeks down and counting. ?
Thx,
Wade
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Show quoted text
On Jan 19, 2024, at 12:19?PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?
James Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
|
Mercedes used to import the rigs with no oil I was told.? I drive old ford 150¡¯s? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 19, 2024, at 2:19?PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?
James Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
|
It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?
James
Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
|
You can zero to ?Blade 0ff slider /table? ?than raise to desired depth ,? Very acurate . Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 19, 2024, at 11:25?AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 08:58 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I agree that for the J/P it is way more convenient to have the K1/K2 motor and not spin it my hand.
I have the digital spin the A3 and it is easy to adjust to 0.1mm with it (and probably dado will be the only thing I¡¯ll need that accuracy)
I have actually made cuts using a normal blade where I need an exact blade height: -Aaron
|
On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 08:58 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I agree that for the J/P it is way more convenient to have the K1/K2 motor and not spin it my hand.
I have the digital spin the A3 and it is easy to adjust to 0.1mm with it (and probably dado will be the only thing I¡¯ll need that accuracy)
I have actually made cuts using a normal blade where I need an exact blade height: -Aaron
|
I agree that for the J/P it is way more convenient to have the K1/K2 motor and not spin it my hand.
I have the digital spin the A3 and it is easy to adjust to 0.1mm with it (and probably dado will be the only thing I¡¯ll need that accuracy)
|
Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
|
Yes, I saw that but like you, not sure how it actually ?works.
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On Jan 19, 2024, at 9:02?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote: ? Todays powerdrive K1 looks like this, so it¡¯s hard to tell how it operates from the photo. Perhaps it¡¯s a dual function button for fast and slow adjustments.? <fel_power_drive_k1_2014.jpg>
On Jan 18, 2024, at 4:20 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Dan,
You may not have read earlier msgs. The discussion is about only having the electronic height control and NOT having full powerdrive.
I mentioned earlier, that this is implemented on my saw where I only have?a 2 speed elevation control and no?white button for fine adj. I am familiar with powerdrive it as I do have it on my dual51.
I do not know if what I have is the K1 option of today; If it is, I would not get it. Following is not a sharp pic but K975 control panel is shown in the distance and pointed to by the red arrow. Left most is 2 speed elevation switch, then Green/red main saw control switches followed by green button for scoring saw. Below scoring saw switch is the location for scoring saw elevation switch (not installed on my machine).
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:27?PM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? As far as I know, powerdrive K2 refers to height and angle control, K1 would be for height only. Here¡¯s a short video showing the operation. The spring loaded switch gets you close to where you want to be, then press the white button to go up in increments off .005¡± or .1mm if you¡¯re using metric. Same concept applies for the blade angle controls as well. I have my dado stack diameter programmed in as well and it¡¯s as easy as short pressing the reset button to switch between diameters. I think you can program up to 10 diameters but I may be wrong.?
On Jan 18, 2024, at 11:59 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 08:47 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
Fair point. Regarding seperate wiring, I am anyway need to run a new electric outlet for the saw, so running from the panel directly to the saw vs running to to phase convertor and from there to the outlet should be almost the same amount of work.
I'll get some quotes and then see
I looked into converting to 3-phase in my hobby shop last year and I really wish I could have done it.? Ultimately, it would have been too costly.? I estimated that it would be probably a $15k effort because I wanted everything legit with permits, etc (that's not even factoring in selling my tools and re-buying).? The city inspectors are basically scared to sign off on anything they don't understand, so that means you need a proper electrical engineering design.? Plus the permit fee would have been really expensive because this is a non-standard project for residential electrical.? Add in electricians for install as well.? Other areas may vary so you should consult a reputable electrician with experience in this kind of thing. A 10HP phase perfect unit wants an 80 amp circuit (based on documentation).? This is a LOT to allocate, so make sure your main service panel and house has enough reserve.? The load calc sheets on my house indicate a 144A load before adding in any shop equipment.? I could not have done this with my current 200A service panel.? If you have a 200A panel, I would say that you could do this if you don't have any air conditioning or pool pumps, etc (or even electric car chargers).? Fun fact: many new homes are actually putting in electric water heaters because PG&E wants to discontinue natural gas.? These electric water heaters suck an enormous amount of current. Of course, you can install and wire your own phase converter and electrical.? However, if something happens, insurance companies love to decline claims on this type of stuff. The other part was the noise generated by Phase Perfect.? I did not have the ability to mount it outside in an area that would not impose on my neighbors and having this noise in the shop would be a problem. If you have the area and budget to do 3-phase, it would be a great thing. -Aaron
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Todays powerdrive K1 looks like this, so it¡¯s hard to tell how it operates from the photo. Perhaps it¡¯s a dual function button for fast and slow adjustments.?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 4:20 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Dan,
You may not have read earlier msgs. The discussion is about only having the electronic height control and NOT having full powerdrive.
I mentioned earlier, that this is implemented on my saw where I only have?a 2 speed elevation control and no?white button for fine adj. I am familiar with powerdrive it as I do have it on my dual51.
I do not know if what I have is the K1 option of today; If it is, I would not get it. Following is not a sharp pic but K975 control panel is shown in the distance and pointed to by the red arrow. Left most is 2 speed elevation switch, then Green/red main saw control switches followed by green button for scoring saw. Below scoring saw switch is the location for scoring saw elevation switch (not installed on my machine).
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:27?PM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? As far as I know, powerdrive K2 refers to height and angle control, K1 would be for height only. Here¡¯s a short video showing the operation. The spring loaded switch gets you close to where you want to be, then press the white button to go up in increments off .005¡± or .1mm if you¡¯re using metric. Same concept applies for the blade angle controls as well. I have my dado stack diameter programmed in as well and it¡¯s as easy as short pressing the reset button to switch between diameters. I think you can program up to 10 diameters but I may be wrong.?
On Jan 18, 2024, at 11:59 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 08:47 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
Fair point. Regarding seperate wiring, I am anyway need to run a new electric outlet for the saw, so running from the panel directly to the saw vs running to to phase convertor and from there to the outlet should be almost the same amount of work.
I'll get some quotes and then see
I looked into converting to 3-phase in my hobby shop last year and I really wish I could have done it.? Ultimately, it would have been too costly.? I estimated that it would be probably a $15k effort because I wanted everything legit with permits, etc (that's not even factoring in selling my tools and re-buying).? The city inspectors are basically scared to sign off on anything they don't understand, so that means you need a proper electrical engineering design.? Plus the permit fee would have been really expensive because this is a non-standard project for residential electrical.? Add in electricians for install as well.? Other areas may vary so you should consult a reputable electrician with experience in this kind of thing. A 10HP phase perfect unit wants an 80 amp circuit (based on documentation).? This is a LOT to allocate, so make sure your main service panel and house has enough reserve.? The load calc sheets on my house indicate a 144A load before adding in any shop equipment.? I could not have done this with my current 200A service panel.? If you have a 200A panel, I would say that you could do this if you don't have any air conditioning or pool pumps, etc (or even electric car chargers).? Fun fact: many new homes are actually putting in electric water heaters because PG&E wants to discontinue natural gas.? These electric water heaters suck an enormous amount of current. Of course, you can install and wire your own phase converter and electrical.? However, if something happens, insurance companies love to decline claims on this type of stuff. The other part was the noise generated by Phase Perfect.? I did not have the ability to mount it outside in an area that would not impose on my neighbors and having this noise in the shop would be a problem. If you have the area and budget to do 3-phase, it would be a great thing. -Aaron
<Video.mov>
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Re: Profile 45 just stopped working
It's been a while...
Profil 45 now working again.
Tech came again last week.? He was great.? Patient and thorough.? He finally found a contactor that had a burnt out actuator coil.??
What was happening was the system would spin up and then about 4 seconds later (when the power drive was activated) the shaper would spin down again.? No erorr message!
Cheers, David??
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David P. Best
imran
Dan Gavrilyuk
