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? I’ve seen that also but my comment was specific to the K975 that Imran has. ? David Best - via mobile phone? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 8:07?AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Attached is a direct screenshot from Felder's website on the KF700 saw-shaper.? I know I have seen "K1 Powerdrive" in other places as well: <Felder_K1.JPG> -Aaron
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Newbie to Shaper - Getting a Custom Profile Ground
Hello,
I just ordered a FB700Z. Its first job will be to replicate some 2-1/2" wide casing for a customer's 1920's vintage house. The moulding will require shaping on both the face and one edge.?
I plan to order a Byrd insert cutter head that is 4" tall. Why Byrd? Well, that's what my local shop that grinds knives sells.
Since the moulding will require shaping both the face and one edge, I am hoping that ordering a taller head will allow me to grind one set of knives that will cut both profiles. I plan to flip the head upside down between the two passes, and reverse the rotation of the shaper. Please see attached drawing. I hope that clears up what I am trying to explain.?
Question 1: Please comment on the wisdom or folly of such an approach, and
Question 2: I will need other profiles ground, most of which won't need the full 4" height of the cutter. Is it a bad idea to get "the tallest insert cutter" you'll need?
Thx in advance for your help.
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Imran,
My experience was the same as Dan’s - no issue hitting target height first try. ? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 7:33?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? David,
I found a few minutes to add more. I have the 2speed sw you describe but no DRO. I have added the DRO now. Were you able to crawl slow enough to stop the saw blade let’s say at 0.500 inch, repeatedly? I cannot even come close.
My machine uses 30VDC for fast speed and 10VDC at slow speed. It is too fast even on the slow speed to stop at an exact number. There is no white push button to bump by 0.005” like in my Dual51 powerdrive.
Imran Malik
On Jan 18, 2024, at 9:59?AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Imran,
I am not clear on what you mean by “K1 powerdrive”. ?When I purchased my K975, there were two motorized arbor-positioning options: PowerDrive and DigiDrive. ?You are the first person I’ve heard talk about a K1 and a K2 type of power drive system on that machine. ?
The PowerDrive on my K975 had a momentary switch, spring loaded to the center off position, with two positions in each twisting direction: high and low speed movement in the up or down (anti-clockwise, and clockwise) with the turn of the switch. Granted, the low-speed position was a slight turn of the switch, requiring a sensitive hand movement so as not to overshoot to the high speed position. The system also included a DRO that displayed the height of the blade accurately if it was properly calibrated.?
So I’m not clear on whether you have a defective switch that is hampering your ability to precisely position the saw arbor, or have implemented some Frankenstein type power drive system that is unique to your machine. The terms K1 and K2 are normally used to refer to relays inside the electrical cabinet rather than an option for the PowerDrive system.? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 18, 2024, at 6:03?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Dan,
“I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..”
Not sure what you are saying. I agree, with powerdrive there is no issue to set height. Works fine on my Dual 51. My comment was regarding K1 powerdrive on my used K975. Aaron thought that would be a desirable build feature (presumably from cost standpoint) but I was warning him that it is impossible to set the blade to an exact height without full powerdrive. With K1 all I have is a 2-speed up and down switch. There is no way to hit a desirable blade height.
If a manufacturer just added DROs (not expensive compared to motorized motion) to the crank raise and tilt, I think many would be happy and not pay for the full powerdrive.
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:12?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
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Attached is a direct screenshot from Felder's website on the KF700 saw-shaper.? I know I have seen "K1 Powerdrive" in other places as well:  -Aaron
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Dan,
“I have no problem setting my height on the first try before starting the saw for the cut.”
You can do this on a Felder saw with just the 2 speed control knob for elevation?
If so, can you share a video? I will also capture one showing how impossible this is to do on mine.
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 10:39?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote: ? It is rather quite possible. As I said, you need to develop a feel for it. A stopped plunge cut is something that 90% of users never do. And those that do, it’s maybe a 5% occurrence. I have no problem setting my height on the first try before starting the saw for the cut.? On Jan 18, 2024, at 9:59 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Imran,
I am not clear on what you mean by “K1 powerdrive”. ?When I purchased my K975, there were two motorized arbor-positioning options: PowerDrive and DigiDrive. ?You are the first person I’ve heard talk about a K1 and a K2 type of power drive system on that machine. ?
The PowerDrive on my K975 had a momentary switch, spring loaded to the center off position, with two positions in each twisting direction: high and low speed movement in the up or down (anti-clockwise, and clockwise) with the turn of the switch. Granted, the low-speed position was a slight turn of the switch, requiring a sensitive hand movement so as not to overshoot to the high speed position. The system also included a DRO that displayed the height of the blade accurately if it was properly calibrated.?
So I’m not clear on whether you have a defective switch that is hampering your ability to precisely position the saw arbor, or have implemented some Frankenstein type power drive system that is unique to your machine. The terms K1 and K2 are normally used to refer to relays inside the electrical cabinet rather than an option for the PowerDrive system.? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 18, 2024, at 6:03?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Dan,
“I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..”
Not sure what you are saying. I agree, with powerdrive there is no issue to set height. Works fine on my Dual 51. My comment was regarding K1 powerdrive on my used K975. Aaron thought that would be a desirable build feature (presumably from cost standpoint) but I was warning him that it is impossible to set the blade to an exact height without full powerdrive. With K1 all I have is a 2-speed up and down switch. There is no way to hit a desirable blade height.
If a manufacturer just added DROs (not expensive compared to motorized motion) to the crank raise and tilt, I think many would be happy and not pay for the full powerdrive.
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:12?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
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Netanel,
Although there are pros to 3-phase power, there are cons too.? You will find it almost universal in commercial shops but rarely in home shops as it adds the significant cost of the converter, a separate wiring system, possibly noise depending on the type and where? the converter is installed, and the cost to repair or replace if something happens to it.? Single phase motors up to 5 or 7.5-hp are fairly common.? Its common in ag to see 10-hp on irrigation pumps but added cost for 3 phase can be justified on larger motors. Power savings costs won't be measurable on 4-hp intermittent use and you can buy a lot of capacitors for the price of a converter.? Finally, if / when you eventually go to sell your machine, the 3-ph market size will be more limited.
I have 3-phase power on a mill and a lathe.? I bought them used so had no option.? I cant recommend one or the other but you could take the money spent on a converter and use it for more tools.? Everybody needs more tools.
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It is rather quite possible. As I said, you need to develop a feel for it. A stopped plunge cut is something that 90% of users never do. And those that do, it’s maybe a 5% occurrence. I have no problem setting my height on the first try before starting the saw for the cut.?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 9:59 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Imran,
I am not clear on what you mean by “K1 powerdrive”. ?When I purchased my K975, there were two motorized arbor-positioning options: PowerDrive and DigiDrive. ?You are the first person I’ve heard talk about a K1 and a K2 type of power drive system on that machine. ?
The PowerDrive on my K975 had a momentary switch, spring loaded to the center off position, with two positions in each twisting direction: high and low speed movement in the up or down (anti-clockwise, and clockwise) with the turn of the switch. Granted, the low-speed position was a slight turn of the switch, requiring a sensitive hand movement so as not to overshoot to the high speed position. The system also included a DRO that displayed the height of the blade accurately if it was properly calibrated.?
So I’m not clear on whether you have a defective switch that is hampering your ability to precisely position the saw arbor, or have implemented some Frankenstein type power drive system that is unique to your machine. The terms K1 and K2 are normally used to refer to relays inside the electrical cabinet rather than an option for the PowerDrive system.? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 18, 2024, at 6:03?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Dan,
“I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..”
Not sure what you are saying. I agree, with powerdrive there is no issue to set height. Works fine on my Dual 51. My comment was regarding K1 powerdrive on my used K975. Aaron thought that would be a desirable build feature (presumably from cost standpoint) but I was warning him that it is impossible to set the blade to an exact height without full powerdrive. With K1 all I have is a 2-speed up and down switch. There is no way to hit a desirable blade height.
If a manufacturer just added DROs (not expensive compared to motorized motion) to the crank raise and tilt, I think many would be happy and not pay for the full powerdrive.
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:12?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
|
David,
I found a few minutes to add more. I have the 2speed sw you describe but no DRO. I have added the DRO now. Were you able to crawl slow enough to stop the saw blade let’s say at 0.500 inch, repeatedly? I cannot even come close.
My machine uses 30VDC for fast speed and 10VDC at slow speed. It is too fast even on the slow speed to stop at an exact number. There is no white push button to bump by 0.005” like in my Dual51 powerdrive.
Imran Malik
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 18, 2024, at 9:59?AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ? Imran,
I am not clear on what you mean by “K1 powerdrive”. ?When I purchased my K975, there were two motorized arbor-positioning options: PowerDrive and DigiDrive. ?You are the first person I’ve heard talk about a K1 and a K2 type of power drive system on that machine. ?
The PowerDrive on my K975 had a momentary switch, spring loaded to the center off position, with two positions in each twisting direction: high and low speed movement in the up or down (anti-clockwise, and clockwise) with the turn of the switch. Granted, the low-speed position was a slight turn of the switch, requiring a sensitive hand movement so as not to overshoot to the high speed position. The system also included a DRO that displayed the height of the blade accurately if it was properly calibrated.?
So I’m not clear on whether you have a defective switch that is hampering your ability to precisely position the saw arbor, or have implemented some Frankenstein type power drive system that is unique to your machine. The terms K1 and K2 are normally used to refer to relays inside the electrical cabinet rather than an option for the PowerDrive system.? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 18, 2024, at 6:03?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Dan,
“I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..”
Not sure what you are saying. I agree, with powerdrive there is no issue to set height. Works fine on my Dual 51. My comment was regarding K1 powerdrive on my used K975. Aaron thought that would be a desirable build feature (presumably from cost standpoint) but I was warning him that it is impossible to set the blade to an exact height without full powerdrive. With K1 all I have is a 2-speed up and down switch. There is no way to hit a desirable blade height.
If a manufacturer just added DROs (not expensive compared to motorized motion) to the crank raise and tilt, I think many would be happy and not pay for the full powerdrive.
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:12?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
|
I sent you a DM, addressing some of your questions. Let me know if you did not receive it.
I will make the assumption that you would be purchasing a case 700 S with the 5.5 hp base model, three phase motor. ?For a phase converter you have basically two options. The first would be a rotary phase converter, such as the American rotary unit described at the following link:
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The other option would be a digital phase converter such as the Phase Perfect. You could probably get by with a 7.5 hp PP unit. However, I would recommend going to the 10 hp capacity version to give you some future expansion capability or to run a three phase dust extractor in combination with your sliding table saw. In general, the Phase Perfect units are underrated. I have a 10 hp unit in my shop on an 70-Amp breaker, and routinely run a 13 hp joiner/planer in combination with a 5.5 hp gust extractor on that PP unit. ?The PP PTE010 would be ideal:
Both types of phase converters will make noise when they are powered up. The rotary phase converter makes a rumbling/groaning sound similar to what you would hear with a conventional motor running without a load and it consumes electricity when in the standby mode. The PP emits, a high-pitched wine which some people find really objectionable, and others do not. ?The PP electrical consumption when in standby mode is negligible. ?If you search the archives here on FOG, you’ll find lots of commentary about both options, including ideas on how to soundproof them and implement a remote start switch.
With respect to pricing and discount, you should expect some type of discount off list for any configuration you purchase from Felder. Tell Fergus Cooke to sharpen his pencil.
David Best - via mobile phone?
David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 3:19?AM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:
?
Do you have any recommandation for phase convertor?
What size do I need to operate 3-phase saw? I have a limited power in the shop.
?
For the DRO, sorry, I meant cross cut fence DRO. I stopped working with the rip fence when I moved to a slider (beside using it as a stop block, I even shorten the saw from 49" to 31")
I forgot about Parallel fence, I made a jig for the K3, but proper fence is a good idea.
I'll ask the rep for a quote for the shaper, but it looks like the pre made configuration of the K700 has $2300 disscount, so it will get the undiscount model quite expsnsive.?
?
For clamps, I'll start with using my Kregs clamps until I'll have the budget for Airtight.
The quote I got was for the S body, my rep didn't tried to convince me to take the less model.
?
I am located in Northen Califnrnia. I'll DM you the sales rep.
?
Thanks for your help (P.S., I used your video to calibrate the K3 slider - wonderful video - thanks for that)
David,
I do not know either but responded to Aaron using the term he used.
“Hi Aaron,?I have what you call K1 power drive on my K975 and hate it.”
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 9:59?AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ? Imran,
I am not clear on what you mean by “K1 powerdrive”. ?When I purchased my K975, there were two motorized arbor-positioning options: PowerDrive and DigiDrive. ?You are the first person I’ve heard talk about a K1 and a K2 type of power drive system on that machine. ?
The PowerDrive on my K975 had a momentary switch, spring loaded to the center off position, with two positions in each twisting direction: high and low speed movement in the up or down (anti-clockwise, and clockwise) with the turn of the switch. Granted, the low-speed position was a slight turn of the switch, requiring a sensitive hand movement so as not to overshoot to the high speed position. The system also included a DRO that displayed the height of the blade accurately if it was properly calibrated.?
So I’m not clear on whether you have a defective switch that is hampering your ability to precisely position the saw arbor, or have implemented some Frankenstein type power drive system that is unique to your machine. The terms K1 and K2 are normally used to refer to relays inside the electrical cabinet rather than an option for the PowerDrive system.? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 18, 2024, at 6:03?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Dan,
“I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..”
Not sure what you are saying. I agree, with powerdrive there is no issue to set height. Works fine on my Dual 51. My comment was regarding K1 powerdrive on my used K975. Aaron thought that would be a desirable build feature (presumably from cost standpoint) but I was warning him that it is impossible to set the blade to an exact height without full powerdrive. With K1 all I have is a 2-speed up and down switch. There is no way to hit a desirable blade height.
If a manufacturer just added DROs (not expensive compared to motorized motion) to the crank raise and tilt, I think many would be happy and not pay for the full powerdrive.
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:12?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
|
Imran,
I am not clear on what you mean by “K1 powerdrive”. ?When I purchased my K975, there were two motorized arbor-positioning options: PowerDrive and DigiDrive. ?You are the first person I’ve heard talk about a K1 and a K2 type of power drive system on that machine. ?
The PowerDrive on my K975 had a momentary switch, spring loaded to the center off position, with two positions in each twisting direction: high and low speed movement in the up or down (anti-clockwise, and clockwise) with the turn of the switch. Granted, the low-speed position was a slight turn of the switch, requiring a sensitive hand movement so as not to overshoot to the high speed position. The system also included a DRO that displayed the height of the blade accurately if it was properly calibrated.?
So I’m not clear on whether you have a defective switch that is hampering your ability to precisely position the saw arbor, or have implemented some Frankenstein type power drive system that is unique to your machine. The terms K1 and K2 are normally used to refer to relays inside the electrical cabinet rather than an option for the PowerDrive system.? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 6:03?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Dan,
“I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..”
Not sure what you are saying. I agree, with powerdrive there is no issue to set height. Works fine on my Dual 51. My comment was regarding K1 powerdrive on my used K975. Aaron thought that would be a desirable build feature (presumably from cost standpoint) but I was warning him that it is impossible to set the blade to an exact height without full powerdrive. With K1 all I have is a 2-speed up and down switch. There is no way to hit a desirable blade height.
If a manufacturer just added DROs (not expensive compared to motorized motion) to the crank raise and tilt, I think many would be happy and not pay for the full powerdrive.
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:12?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
|
Netanel,
I shared startup and idle currents of Felder 3Ph motors up to 10HP (7.35KW) in this document. This info is on FOG as well but I could not find it.
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 6:18?AM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:
?On Wed, Jan 17, 2024 at 09:04 PM, PK wrote:
(never thought I would need more than 10hp 3ph until I got a 3ph dust collector).
I see there is a huge price jump between the 7.5HP phase convertor to the 10HP phase convertor.
$1400 to $3500
If I am going with the 7.5HP saw, will it be sufficient??
I am trying to calculate how much power will it consume
5.5kW motor on 3 phase should consumes ~19 amp on the 3 phase, how much power?
I can see that it consume up to 45A, does it just for the start or the continious load?
together with my dust collector that consume 23A I am close to 70A
Dan,
“I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..”
Not sure what you are saying. I agree, with powerdrive there is no issue to set height. Works fine on my Dual 51. My comment was regarding K1 powerdrive on my used K975. Aaron thought that would be a desirable build feature (presumably from cost standpoint) but I was warning him that it is impossible to set the blade to an exact height without full powerdrive. With K1 all I have is a 2-speed up and down switch. There is no way to hit a desirable blade height.
If a manufacturer just added DROs (not expensive compared to motorized motion) to the crank raise and tilt, I think many would be happy and not pay for the full powerdrive.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:12?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote: ? I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
|
Do you have any recommandation for phase convertor?
What size do I need to operate 3-phase saw? I have a limited power in the shop.
?
For the DRO, sorry, I meant cross cut fence DRO. I stopped working with the rip fence when I moved to a slider (beside using it as a stop block, I even shorten the saw from 49" to 31")
I forgot about Parallel fence, I made a jig for the K3, but proper fence is a good idea.
I'll ask the rep for a quote for the shaper, but it looks like the pre made configuration of the K700 has $2300 disscount, so it will get the undiscount model quite expsnsive.?
?
For clamps, I'll start with using my Kregs clamps until I'll have the budget for Airtight.
The quote I got was for the S body, my rep didn't tried to convince me to take the less model.
?
I am located in Northen Califnrnia. I'll DM you the sales rep.
?
Thanks for your help (P.S., I used your video to calibrate the K3 slider - wonderful video - thanks for that)
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Aaron - The overhead blade gard is on my list. It is currently?out of stock and should arrive in 12 weeks. It is anyway an addon item.
Fritz and Franz - I have David Bad and I'll keep using in on the new slider.
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On Wed, Jan 17, 2024 at 09:04 PM, PK wrote:
(never thought I would need more than 10hp 3ph until I got a 3ph dust collector).
I see there is a huge price jump between the 7.5HP phase convertor to the 10HP phase convertor.
$1400 to $3500
If I am going with the 7.5HP saw, will it be sufficient??
I am trying to calculate how much power will it consume
5.5kW motor on 3 phase should consumes ~19 amp on the 3 phase, how much power?
I can see that it consume up to 45A, does it just for the start or the continious load?
together with my dust collector that consume 23A I am close to 70A
|
Motorised/ powerdrive this that or the other are great to have when they are working........100% certainty they will develop?issues at some stage, this timing will generally be a inconvenience.
On Thu, 18 Jan 2024 at 07:12, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote: I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
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I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
|
Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
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Netanel,
I have to agree with David fully.? And possibly with Aaron too,? I may stand to be corrected, but I think when you order the DRO option from Felder on the 900 and 700 machines you get the larger extrusion for the crosscut fence, which may be an advantage?? (more robust but much heavier).? If you plan on taking the outrigger off the saw often, then the smaller extrusion and Brian Lam's DRO may be a better option for you because it is lighter?? BTW, I do love the automatic positioning rip fence though - very nice.
I wish I would have taken David's advice originally when he told me to go 3ph (I am sure he has the speech down pat at this point for many of the FOG peeps).? I got a great deal on a used 2016 kappa 400 x-motion (which forced me to move to a 3ph setup) and now I have SEVEN 3ph machines.? I just built a new shop and I only have 1 single phase machine now.? Crazy how things line up.? I am on my second Phase Perfect converter and not looking back (never thought I would need more than 10hp 3ph until I got a 3ph dust collector).
PK
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David P. Best
imran
Jonathan Smith
Dan Gavrilyuk
PK