??? Can you share some details regarding the crank handle?? I
regularly find the handle on my Powermatic runs into the fence on
the table.
On 7/13/2023 8:21 AM, joe slater wrote:
I also like my Voyager and echo some of the limitations.?
Consistent with my attitude that commercially available large
equipment is a starter kit, not a fully complete tool fit for my
purposes, I've done the following upgrades and now it is just what
I wanted:
precision matthews keyless chuck
wixey post mounted laser
magnetic LED lights (there is one on each side) wired into
the main power feed.?
new crank handle that does not interfere with the table.??
--
Joe Slater
michigan
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
Re: Any opinions on Nova Viking and Voyager pillar drills?
I also like my Voyager and echo some of the limitations.? Consistent with my attitude that commercially available large equipment is a starter kit, not a fully complete tool fit for my purposes, I've done the following upgrades and now it is just what I wanted:
precision matthews keyless chuck
wixey post mounted laser
magnetic LED lights (there is one on each side) wired into the main power feed.?
new crank handle that does not interfere with the table.??
I bought the Voyager and went from adequate to great holes because now I set the speed correctly every time - it takes a few seconds. The auto-stop and depth control were a timesaver during a large batch job. The auto-reverse is also occasionally useful. Somehow, I'm drilling more than before I bought it. I guess it raised drilling in the pecking order of options because it's so easy to use.
Re: Any opinions on Nova Viking and Voyager pillar drills?
I posted my thoughts about my Nova Voyager in a recent thread. I’ve used mine in a hobby shop environment for probably 6 years now.
I really like the DVR, auto-stop/electronic depth control, auto-reverse, and speed selection. Updates to the software that make that happen are a PITA, but I’ve not noticed any software flaws that would make an update necessary.
The big work table is a plus, but the lack of a work light is a negative.
It is a consumer-grade tool, and people will compare it unfavorably to industrial machines, but it does everything in need it to do.
I’ve been happy with mine even with the minor complaints I’ve had. I’n never get another drill press without DVR. -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
On Jul 12, 2023, at 10:59 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?Wade, the “ledge” that supports material when the top is flipped down into vertical position is about 10-inches tall ? It’s a U-shaped tube with one center brace, so you can slide materials between the tubes if they are under about 22-inches in width. ?I wouldn’t want to be without that “ledge” as it acts as a handle to maneuver the cart when it has heavy loads and the table is in the up/flat position. ?Fellow FOG member Steve Rowe has the ShopCarts unit as well and did a nice review of it here:
I customized mine with swivel casters on both ends and a lanyard I made at summer camp on the releasing pin ring. ?It will easily hold 8 sheets of 3/4 ApplePly weighing 1,000 pounds. ?I’ve done that a few times. ?The same load of ApplePly on my Barth 500V (which is rated the same in load capacity) will cause the top of the Barth to creep down about 2-inches per hour. ?So much for “German engineering”. ? ?As Steve points out, with more than about 5 sheets of 3/4-inch plywood loaded on it, you will really struggle tilting that top from vertical to horizontal position without some kind of mechanical assistance. ?I have a ceiling-mounted HF wench )) to help with this and to raise/lower my wall-mounted glue-up bench (discussed here: ?).
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 12, 2023, at 4:56 AM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
David Best,
No more Felder “machine Kool-Aid”, but am considering trying their “equipment Kool-Aid” ?
I will say though, after seeing your link to the Shopcarts 4’ panel handler, that’s now on the consideration table.
When the 4’ panel handler is in the vertical position you stack your material on the lip or ledge to support the material, but wouldn’t it be great if there was some “magical” way to design it to where you could fold that ledge away and have a flat work table you could use and access on all sides of it. ?Do you know how wide that lip/ledger is?
Thx,
Wade
On Jul 11, 2023, at 9:08 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?Wade, me thinks you have slurped too much Felder brand Kool-Aid. ?Great castors are cheap and easy to put on. ?Last time I looked Barth wanted something like $1K for a laminated top with holes. ?That too is cheap and easy to fabricate in your shop, or outsource to a water-jet facility. ??
The Hafele tilting panel cart is no longer sold by Hafele. ?I had one myself, on sale it was $299 in 2002. ?I sold it when I moved, missed it so much I wanted to buy another, but they had stopped selling them, so I got the Shop Cart which is eve beefier. ?I too replaced the castors on my Hafele cart..
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 11, 2023, at 8:40 PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
Aaron Inami,
That castor wheel description sounds like the perfect scenario for a castor wheel set up on these tables. ?
For me that’s another notch in the pro column for the Fat 300 S.
Thx,
Wade
On Jul 11, 2023, at 7:29 PM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Felder describes the casters as "2 lockable swivel castors and 2 swivel casters with directional locks".
The "2 swivel casters with directional locks" will lock into one direction, but will still roll.? This acts as a fixed castor to help with transporting material across the shop? (if you have 4 fully swivel castors, it's really difficult to control the cart when you are moving stuff around).? If you "unlock" them, they become a standard swivel castor.
The "2 lockable swivel castors" are complete dual-locking casters.? They will lock in any direction as well as apply a brake to the wheel so that the table does not roll off on its own.
Re: Any opinions on Nova Viking and Voyager pillar drills?
Thanks for the post, as I’m in a similar situation… I gave away an?old Delta 16” floor model, due to space constraints and that it was underutilized. I’ve recently expanded my shop, and am looking to purchase a drill press. Clausing is on my radar; though, they seem to lack much of the digital enhancements of the Nova offerings.
On Thursday, July 13, 2023, 05:43, aero_qfi <davesawdon@...> wrote:
I keep being tempted to treat myself to a replacement for my old and rattly 4-speed Denford Viceroy pillar drill and the recent mention of the Nova drills has restarted the internal debate. My current drill press enables me to make perfectly adequate holes so I'm having difficulty justifying a change, both to myself and SWMBA ... I think it's more wanting a new toy rather than needing to replace the existing one. Anyway, I'd welcome and comments and observations on the Nova Viking and Voyage drills because their sparkly gizzmos are calling to me ;-)
Dave (in the UK)
-- Mike D. Annapolis, MD AD951; K700S; N4400
Any opinions on Nova Viking and Voyager pillar drills?
I keep being tempted to treat myself to a replacement for my old and rattly 4-speed Denford Viceroy pillar drill and the recent mention of the Nova drills has restarted the internal debate. My current drill press enables me to make perfectly adequate holes so I'm having difficulty justifying a change, both to myself and SWMBA ... I think it's more wanting a new toy rather than needing to replace the existing one. Anyway, I'd welcome and comments and observations on the Nova Viking and Voyage drills because their sparkly gizzmos are calling to me ;-)
Thanks Brett!? we didnt fully push it with the boom stick, the boom stick did the lifting and some pushing, we also had 2 pallet trolleys inside the garage/under the saw to move it slowly over a lip at the garage door. once inside the garage it was not hard. the base is wide and long, we had to use 2 pallet trolleys to move it into position.
although the saw is almost half the length of my previous saw but it is a lot wider, it stands at 4.2m wide x 2.2m long (165 inch x 86 inch)
To fully utilise the saw I really need a larger workshop which I will be actively looking to purchase in the next 12-18 months. if successful, there is an option where I can buy a longer table from SCM, there is no modification required to change to longer table, the table are modular, initial quote for a longer table is $13k USD for a 3800mm table, and $12k USD for a 3200mm table (the actual difference is like $500 USD between the two)
The mitre fence can come off easily (without jeopardising saw operation) to allow user to quickly change fence position to front/back, there is no lever to pull/push
There are some interesting options you can add on, such as device to allow ripping on operator side, a trolley that you can purchase separately to take the outrigger table away if needed.... etc etc.?
I have the “Shopcart “as well and I find it to be excellent. ? Great with heavy materials to unload from my truck and transfer around the shop or on to panel saw.
On Jul 12, 2023, at 6:59 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?Wade, the “ledge” that supports material when the top is flipped down into vertical position is about 10-inches tall ? It’s a U-shaped tube with one center brace, so you can slide materials between the tubes if they are under about 22-inches in width. ?I wouldn’t want to be without that “ledge” as it acts as a handle to maneuver the cart when it has heavy loads and the table is in the up/flat position. ?Fellow FOG member Steve Rowe has the ShopCarts unit as well and did a nice review of it here:
I customized mine with swivel casters on both ends and a lanyard I made at summer camp on the releasing pin ring. ?It will easily hold 8 sheets of 3/4 ApplePly weighing 1,000 pounds. ?I’ve done that a few times. ?The same load of ApplePly on my Barth 500V (which is rated the same in load capacity) will cause the top of the Barth to creep down about 2-inches per hour. ?So much for “German engineering”. ? ?As Steve points out, with more than about 5 sheets of 3/4-inch plywood loaded on it, you will really struggle tilting that top from vertical to horizontal position without some kind of mechanical assistance. ?I have a ceiling-mounted HF wench )) to help with this and to raise/lower my wall-mounted glue-up bench (discussed here: ?).
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 12, 2023, at 4:56 AM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
David Best,
No more Felder “machine Kool-Aid”, but am considering trying their “equipment Kool-Aid” ?
I will say though, after seeing your link to the Shopcarts 4’ panel handler, that’s now on the consideration table.
When the 4’ panel handler is in the vertical position you stack your material on the lip or ledge to support the material, but wouldn’t it be great if there was some “magical” way to design it to where you could fold that ledge away and have a flat work table you could use and access on all sides of it. ?Do you know how wide that lip/ledger is?
Thx,
Wade
On Jul 11, 2023, at 9:08 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?Wade, me thinks you have slurped too much Felder brand Kool-Aid. ?Great castors are cheap and easy to put on. ?Last time I looked Barth wanted something like $1K for a laminated top with holes. ?That too is cheap and easy to fabricate in your shop, or outsource to a water-jet facility. ??
The Hafele tilting panel cart is no longer sold by Hafele. ?I had one myself, on sale it was $299 in 2002. ?I sold it when I moved, missed it so much I wanted to buy another, but they had stopped selling them, so I got the Shop Cart which is eve beefier. ?I too replaced the castors on my Hafele cart..
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 11, 2023, at 8:40 PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
Aaron Inami,
That castor wheel description sounds like the perfect scenario for a castor wheel set up on these tables. ?
For me that’s another notch in the pro column for the Fat 300 S.
Thx,
Wade
On Jul 11, 2023, at 7:29 PM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Felder describes the casters as "2 lockable swivel castors and 2 swivel casters with directional locks".
The "2 swivel casters with directional locks" will lock into one direction, but will still roll.? This acts as a fixed castor to help with transporting material across the shop? (if you have 4 fully swivel castors, it's really difficult to control the cart when you are moving stuff around).? If you "unlock" them, they become a standard swivel castor.
The "2 lockable swivel castors" are complete dual-locking casters.? They will lock in any direction as well as apply a brake to the wheel so that the table does not roll off on its own.
When moving the long arm from the iron top to the left side of the slider the zero can be lost if the iron is not perfectly planar. The length of the arm magnifies any variation in the iron top.
Then use the top surface of the sliding table itself to zero the indicator. The sliding table top surface is flat “enough” for this application - certainly flatter than most cast iron tops. Lay your indicator base and indicator on the top of the slider, parallel to the long direction of the slider and zero the indicator. Then reposition the base to the cast iron top. I often use the slider table top surface as the reference surface for all kinds of things including glue-up of torsion boxes:
On Jul 12, 2023, at 2:51 PM, Albert Lee <timbershelf@...> wrote:
?
Not?Felder related but I know some of you guys maybe interested to see SCM’s double tilt slider, especially a L’Invincibile. I rarely see L’Invincibile in private shop and most of them are owned by factory or education institution.?
so here it is, I only got them into my workshop yesterday and they are yet to be powered up. Will post a video later about it. the software is very production orientated, SCM provided training for the software, it can talk to your other SCM machine if you have it setup. Base of the machine are 12mm thick steel. Some thicker at 20mm. The stops and the angle on the table talks to the touch screen, you move the stops or angle the table it will show on the screen, because the angular cut is built into the outrigger table it weighs 120kg/260lbs. Linear guides are everywhere, the installation of the slider is super easy, several pins to lock it into position and it’s level/square.?
waited 2 years for this moment. Paid deposit in Jul 21 and certificates shows the saw was made in Sep 2022. On ship in Feb 2023. Arrived at our port in May.?
I wanted to fast track the process so I asked the saw to be assembled at our SCM’s workshop and then delivered to me. This gave me other issues - it rained on the day of delivery, we did cover the saw in time but now I have spotty cast iron table top - how to remove spotty water stain again??
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Re: Advice on dial indicator for checking run of a drill press/input on Novs Voyager Drill Press
What I mean is a way to relate the slider to the iron top. Right side is so close to the iron that I zero to the iron and move the base that fraction of an inch to the slider.
When moving the long arm from the iron top to the left side of the slider the zero can be lost if the iron is not perfectly planar. The length of the arm magnifies any variation in the iron top. -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
Re: Advice on dial indicator for checking run of a drill press/input on Novs Voyager Drill Press
I could be wrong, but I took his question as he has a hard time getting the indicator over a flat surface to zero the indicator referenced off the base surface of the mag base, then swinging it all the way over the slider and having any confidence that his zero is still zero.
I actually like a large surface gage I have for reading way out on the slider, similar to this one, maybe 12” tall though:
On Jul 12, 2023, at 12:36 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
If by “zero” the indicator you mean altering its height so the indicator hand points to the 12-o’clock position, a micro-adjust will do that. ?However, this is not necessary. ?The common method to “zero” the indicator is by twisting the outer dial bezel so that the zero position on the dial face matches the arrow position - then when you reposition the indicator to another place, the indicator will tell you the exact difference. ??
David Best - via mobile phone?
On Jul 12, 2023, at 11:45 AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?I made the long-reach indicator holder similar to the David Best shows. I could not be confident that I could “zero” the indicator, though. The indicator would tell me if I was moving the table up or down, but not whether I had it where I wanted it. I eventually used two indicators at the right edge of the table, and used my level to see if the slider was parallel to the iron table top.
Any suggestions for how to “zero” the left-side indicator would be helpful. I want to try adjusting the slider again, this time to reduce toe-out, and I know I’ll have to work with slider elevation at the same time. -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
Re: Advice on dial indicator for checking run of a drill press/input on Novs Voyager Drill Press
If by “zero” the indicator you mean altering its height so the indicator hand points to the 12-o’clock position, a micro-adjust will do that. ?However, this is not necessary. ?The common method to “zero” the indicator is by twisting the outer dial bezel so that the zero position on the dial face matches the arrow position - then when you reposition the indicator to another place, the indicator will tell you the exact difference. ??
On Jul 12, 2023, at 11:45 AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?I made the long-reach indicator holder similar to the David Best shows. I could not be confident that I could “zero” the indicator, though. The indicator would tell me if I was moving the table up or down, but not whether I had it where I wanted it. I eventually used two indicators at the right edge of the table, and used my level to see if the slider was parallel to the iron table top.
Any suggestions for how to “zero” the left-side indicator would be helpful. I want to try adjusting the slider again, this time to reduce toe-out, and I know I’ll have to work with slider elevation at the same time. -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941