Re: Rangate 300 Lift Cart
Did you keep the original wheels? ?
Wade On Jul 11, 2023, at 11:31 AM, habacomike via groups.io <habacomike@...> wrote:
?I was one of the early buyers of the Rangate 300 cart. ?I built a table for it and couldn't be happier. ?Well, I could if it was half as much... <IMG_3836.jpeg> <IMG_3834.jpeg> <IMG_3833.jpeg> <IMG_3831.jpeg> <IMG_3830.jpeg>
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Thanks Brian. ?I'll try that.
For some reason, the group emails were bouncing but now I seem to have fixed it...
Mike
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Re: Rangate 300 Lift Cart
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Re: Rangate 300 Lift Cart
Wouldn’t even consider anything from Husky, but that Barth 300XL & Felder Fat 300S look really nice, especially because these two offer the height adjustment from both sides of the cart. ?
Does anyone have the frame dimensions for the Barth 300 XL?? And Cost too?
Thx,
Wade? ?I have a 500v (not used as a mobile cart) and I have seen other lift carts.? I was thinking about the Rangate lift cart as my mobile cart after a shop revision, and it was suggested I get a Husky from Home Depot.? They have been mentioned on this forum with great reviews.? I went with that.? A few inches less wide, which was perfect for navigating areas where I had a bit less clearance than ideal.? Wheels upgraded to larger ones.? Super easy to move around as it is so light, yet no problem supporting quite a load of wood.
And.... what a $$$ savings!!!? Now, no, it is not of the "build quality" of Rangate or Barth, but for me, the Husky suits me better and I would not want to swap it for a more robust cart unless it was to sell the robust cart, and use the money to buy another Husky and have $ left over.
Something to consider.?
Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
New Century Realtors
200 E. Big Beaver Rd.| Troy, MI | 48084
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Re: Saw just ain't cutting right
Have you checked toe in/out? Do you get burning on one side or the other of the blade on the cut stock?
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 11, 2023, at 6:51 AM, Edward Cohen <ecohentoo@...> wrote:
Hello to all Felder owners,
It's been quite a while since I posted. I have owned my single phase K700 for a bit more than a year now and am not satisfied with the way the saw is cutting. I bought three blades, Felder Silver 315mm /48 tooth universal, Felder ripping blade, and a 12" 60 tooth Tenyru. I send these blades out for sharpening and clean them on a regular basis. I often work with cherry, walnut. maple, and sometimes some exotics. Much to my concern, I seem to struggle cutting these hardwoods. They cut but not with the ease I would expect with a Felder and using quality blades. I really realized that something is wrong when working on a job, I utilized someone elses older Delta contractors saw with a carbide rip blade. It worked effortlessly, cutting smoothly and precise. Maybe some of you fine folks could shed some light on this issue.
I have had other issues with this saw and have been working with Felder tech. The saw started to stop mid cut and it never braked properly. The Felder staff has been helpful and sent me some new circuitry. Hopefully, I have resolved these issues. The jury is out and time will tell. In the meantime, I want to remedy my cutting issues.
Thank you one and all and would appreciate any feedback.
Ed Cohen?
E. Cohen Designs?
Easthampton, MA 01027
|
PRe: [FOG] Advice on dial indicator for checking run of a drill press/input on Novs Voyager Drill Press
Dave ?for specific tasks these are .025 range and expensive . Catch variation in bore so easy to make mate. Designing and building for 50 years
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Show quoted text
On Jul 11, 2023, at 8:38 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
What size ranges ?? I have the two prong bore indicators but have wanted the three but stocking so many sizes slowed me down.? Dave
Dave another way, quite handy for specific tasks. Three point carbide anvils. <IMG_0808.jpeg>
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jul 10, 2023, at 8:32 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
In addition to the great advice received, I'd buy a point set with the indicator.? They are not very expensive and come with 10-12 different tips.? Most indicators use the same threads so the tips seem interchangeable.
If only drilling in wood this is irrelevant but if drilling in metal. I've come to depend on my pin gauges to tell me how my old Moore Jig Bore is drilling.? I like to build stuff using pins and I know that usually my holes are oversized .0015-.002.? Drilling
a hole and measuring it with a pin gives you information on how the runout affects the bore.? Sometimes the angular contact bearings used on drill presses will show runout when not under load but will tighten up loaded as that is how the bearings are designed.?
I'm not familiar with the Nova but if you work much with metal, pin gauges tell you a lot and you don't need an expensive precision set for most work.
Dave
I have three dial indicators - two Wen and a Teclock. The Wen’s were very inexpensive; the price of the Teclock is lost in time. All three are serviceable and give repeatable results. For setting up machines they seem to be adequate,
One of my mag bases is the old style with separate arms. The other is a brand name with an articulated arm like the one in David Best’s r]suggestion. Both work, but the articulated one is much easier to use. I use these very sporadically, and there is a definite
learning curve to the old style and I have to re-climb that learning curve every time I use it. The old style has a fine adjuster that my articulated arm does not. I rarely feel a need to use that fine adjuster.
Some bases attach to a ug on the back of the indicator, and others attach to the shaft of the indicator. I favor gripping the shaft, particularly when trying to get parallel to a saw table. Make sure your base and indicator are compatible.
I have the Nova Voyager. I like the computer speed control. I usually use the speeds suggested by the machine, but some folks disagree with those suggestions. It has a relatively generous work table. Other than the fancy DVR it is a pretty basic light drill
press.
It has no work light, and I went through several iterations before I found a light that works. No laser designator, but I’m not sure those are that helpful.
I tried once to update the computer, but was not successful. One day perhaps ?I’ll try again. One has to install a program on a laptop and take the laptop to the drill press to do the update. That is a real nuisance, and the update instructions are not easy
to follow.
Not too long ago I was having issues with run-out. The quill seemed to be true, so I replaced the original chuck with an Albrecht (maybe I am spelling that correctly) keyless chuck with integral Morse taper. I should have spent the time and effort to remove
and re-set the original chuck to try to get it aligned better before I spent the money on a new chuck. The Nova depth indicator occluded the upper ring on the keyless chuck just enough that I could not tighten the chuck. Fortunately a friend was able to mill
a little off the bottom of the depth indicator and now the chuck works the way it should.
By the way, the new chuck cost $500 through a US supplier. I found out too late that an outfit in the UK would sell it and send it to me for half of that.
To make a long story short, it is a decent consumer-grade drill press. I love the DVR and will never go back to changing belts, but would certainly look for that feature in sturdier drill presses if I had to replace my Nova.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: AD941 Planer Thickness Variation
“so I think it got my mind obsessing…”
We call that the FOG effect?
mk
|
Saw just ain't cutting right
Hello to all Felder owners,
It's been quite a while since I posted. I have owned my single phase K700 for a bit more than a year now and am not satisfied with the way the saw is cutting. I bought three blades, Felder Silver 315mm /48 tooth universal, Felder ripping blade, and a 12" 60 tooth Tenyru. I send these blades out for sharpening and clean them on a regular basis. I often work with cherry, walnut. maple, and sometimes some exotics. Much to my concern, I seem to struggle cutting these hardwoods. They cut but not with the ease I would expect with a Felder and using quality blades. I really realized that something is wrong when working on a job, I utilized someone elses older Delta contractors saw with a carbide rip blade. It worked effortlessly, cutting smoothly and precise. Maybe some of you fine folks could shed some light on this issue.
I have had other issues with this saw and have been working with Felder tech. The saw started to stop mid cut and it never braked properly. The Felder staff has been helpful and sent me some new circuitry. Hopefully, I have resolved these issues. The jury is out and time will tell. In the meantime, I want to remedy my cutting issues.
Thank you one and all and would appreciate any feedback.
Ed Cohen?
E. Cohen Designs?
Easthampton, MA 01027
|
Re: Advice on dial indicator for checking run of a drill press/input on Novs Voyager Drill Press
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Show quoted text
Very limited, the size range gets smaller the smaller the hole size is, but not uncommon for range to be between .100" and .400” from smallest to largest. You need a lot of Tri-mic’s to cover the whole range. They are
also not the easiest to use.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Jul 11, 2023, at 6:38 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
What size ranges ?? I have the two prong bore indicators but have wanted the three but stocking so many sizes slowed me down.? Dave
Dave another way, quite handy for specific tasks. Three point carbide anvils. <IMG_0808.jpeg>
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jul 10, 2023, at 8:32 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
In addition to the great advice received, I'd buy a point set with the indicator.? They are not very expensive and come with 10-12 different tips.? Most indicators use the same threads so the tips seem interchangeable.
If only drilling in wood this is irrelevant but if drilling in metal. I've come to depend on my pin gauges to tell me how my old Moore Jig Bore is drilling.? I like to build stuff using pins and I know that usually my holes are oversized .0015-.002.? Drilling
a hole and measuring it with a pin gives you information on how the runout affects the bore.? Sometimes the angular contact bearings used on drill presses will show runout when not under load but will tighten up loaded as that is how the bearings are designed.?
I'm not familiar with the Nova but if you work much with metal, pin gauges tell you a lot and you don't need an expensive precision set for most work.
Dave
I have three dial indicators - two Wen and a Teclock. The Wen’s were very inexpensive; the price of the Teclock is lost in time. All three are serviceable and give repeatable results. For setting up machines they seem to be adequate,
One of my mag bases is the old style with separate arms. The other is a brand name with an articulated arm like the one in David Best’s r]suggestion. Both work, but the articulated one is much easier to use. I use these very sporadically, and there is a definite
learning curve to the old style and I have to re-climb that learning curve every time I use it. The old style has a fine adjuster that my articulated arm does not. I rarely feel a need to use that fine adjuster.
Some bases attach to a ug on the back of the indicator, and others attach to the shaft of the indicator. I favor gripping the shaft, particularly when trying to get parallel to a saw table. Make sure your base and indicator are compatible.
I have the Nova Voyager. I like the computer speed control. I usually use the speeds suggested by the machine, but some folks disagree with those suggestions. It has a relatively generous work table. Other than the fancy DVR it is a pretty basic light drill
press.
It has no work light, and I went through several iterations before I found a light that works. No laser designator, but I’m not sure those are that helpful.
I tried once to update the computer, but was not successful. One day perhaps ?I’ll try again. One has to install a program on a laptop and take the laptop to the drill press to do the update. That is a real nuisance, and the update instructions are not easy
to follow.
Not too long ago I was having issues with run-out. The quill seemed to be true, so I replaced the original chuck with an Albrecht (maybe I am spelling that correctly) keyless chuck with integral Morse taper. I should have spent the time and effort to remove
and re-set the original chuck to try to get it aligned better before I spent the money on a new chuck. The Nova depth indicator occluded the upper ring on the keyless chuck just enough that I could not tighten the chuck. Fortunately a friend was able to mill
a little off the bottom of the depth indicator and now the chuck works the way it should.
By the way, the new chuck cost $500 through a US supplier. I found out too late that an outfit in the UK would sell it and send it to me for half of that.
To make a long story short, it is a decent consumer-grade drill press. I love the DVR and will never go back to changing belts, but would certainly look for that feature in sturdier drill presses if I had to replace my Nova.
--?
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941?
|
Re: Advice on dial indicator for checking run of a drill press/input on Novs Voyager Drill Press
Very limited, the size range gets smaller the smaller the hole size is, but not uncommon for range to be between .100" and .400” from smallest to largest. You need a lot of Tri-mic’s to cover the whole range. They are also not the easiest to use.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 11, 2023, at 6:38 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
What size ranges ?? I have the two prong bore indicators but have wanted the three but stocking so many sizes slowed me down.? Dave
Dave another way, quite handy for specific tasks. Three point carbide anvils. <IMG_0808.jpeg>Designing and building for 50 years On Jul 10, 2023, at 8:32 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
? In addition to the great advice received, I'd buy a point set with the indicator.? They are not very expensive and come with 10-12 different tips.? Most indicators use the same threads so the tips seem interchangeable.
If only drilling in wood this is irrelevant but if drilling in metal. I've come to depend on my pin gauges to tell me how my old Moore Jig Bore is drilling.? I like to build stuff using pins and I know that usually my holes are oversized .0015-.002.? Drilling a hole and measuring it with a pin gives you information on how the runout affects the bore.? Sometimes the angular contact bearings used on drill presses will show runout when not under load but will tighten up loaded as that is how the bearings are designed.? I'm not familiar with the Nova but if you work much with metal, pin gauges tell you a lot and you don't need an expensive precision set for most work.
Dave
I have three dial indicators - two Wen and a Teclock. The Wen’s were very inexpensive; the price of the Teclock is lost in time. All three are serviceable and give repeatable results. For setting up machines they seem to be adequate,
One of my mag bases is the old style with separate arms. The other is a brand name with an articulated arm like the one in David Best’s r]suggestion. Both work, but the articulated one is much easier to use. I use these very sporadically, and there is a definite learning curve to the old style and I have to re-climb that learning curve every time I use it. The old style has a fine adjuster that my articulated arm does not. I rarely feel a need to use that fine adjuster.
Some bases attach to a ug on the back of the indicator, and others attach to the shaft of the indicator. I favor gripping the shaft, particularly when trying to get parallel to a saw table. Make sure your base and indicator are compatible.
I have the Nova Voyager. I like the computer speed control. I usually use the speeds suggested by the machine, but some folks disagree with those suggestions. It has a relatively generous work table. Other than the fancy DVR it is a pretty basic light drill press.
It has no work light, and I went through several iterations before I found a light that works. No laser designator, but I’m not sure those are that helpful.
I tried once to update the computer, but was not successful. One day perhaps ?I’ll try again. One has to install a program on a laptop and take the laptop to the drill press to do the update. That is a real nuisance, and the update instructions are not easy to follow.
Not too long ago I was having issues with run-out. The quill seemed to be true, so I replaced the original chuck with an Albrecht (maybe I am spelling that correctly) keyless chuck with integral Morse taper. I should have spent the time and effort to remove and re-set the original chuck to try to get it aligned better before I spent the money on a new chuck. The Nova depth indicator occluded the upper ring on the keyless chuck just enough that I could not tighten the chuck. Fortunately a friend was able to mill a little off the bottom of the depth indicator and now the chuck works the way it should.
By the way, the new chuck cost $500 through a US supplier. I found out too late that an outfit in the UK would sell it and send it to me for half of that.
To make a long story short, it is a decent consumer-grade drill press. I love the DVR and will never go back to changing belts, but would certainly look for that feature in sturdier drill presses if I had to replace my Nova.
--?
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941?
|
Re: Advice on dial indicator for checking run of a drill press/input on Novs Voyager Drill Press
What size ranges ?? I have the two prong bore indicators but have wanted the three but stocking so many sizes slowed me down.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Dave another way, quite handy for specific tasks. Three point carbide anvils. 
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jul 10, 2023, at 8:32 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
In addition to the great advice received, I'd buy a point set with the indicator.? They are not very expensive and come with 10-12 different tips.? Most indicators use the same threads so the tips seem interchangeable.
If only drilling in wood this is irrelevant but if drilling in metal. I've come to depend on my pin gauges to tell me how my old Moore Jig Bore is drilling.? I like to build stuff using pins and I know that usually my holes are oversized .0015-.002.? Drilling
a hole and measuring it with a pin gives you information on how the runout affects the bore.? Sometimes the angular contact bearings used on drill presses will show runout when not under load but will tighten up loaded as that is how the bearings are designed.?
I'm not familiar with the Nova but if you work much with metal, pin gauges tell you a lot and you don't need an expensive precision set for most work.
Dave
I have three dial indicators - two Wen and a Teclock. The Wen’s were very inexpensive; the price of the Teclock is lost in time. All three are serviceable and give repeatable results. For setting up machines they seem to be adequate,
One of my mag bases is the old style with separate arms. The other is a brand name with an articulated arm like the one in David Best’s r]suggestion. Both work, but the articulated one is much easier to use. I use these very sporadically, and there is a definite
learning curve to the old style and I have to re-climb that learning curve every time I use it. The old style has a fine adjuster that my articulated arm does not. I rarely feel a need to use that fine adjuster.
Some bases attach to a ug on the back of the indicator, and others attach to the shaft of the indicator. I favor gripping the shaft, particularly when trying to get parallel to a saw table. Make sure your base and indicator are compatible.
I have the Nova Voyager. I like the computer speed control. I usually use the speeds suggested by the machine, but some folks disagree with those suggestions. It has a relatively generous work table. Other than the fancy DVR it is a pretty basic light drill
press.
It has no work light, and I went through several iterations before I found a light that works. No laser designator, but I’m not sure those are that helpful.
I tried once to update the computer, but was not successful. One day perhaps ?I’ll try again. One has to install a program on a laptop and take the laptop to the drill press to do the update. That is a real nuisance, and the update instructions are not easy
to follow.
Not too long ago I was having issues with run-out. The quill seemed to be true, so I replaced the original chuck with an Albrecht (maybe I am spelling that correctly) keyless chuck with integral Morse taper. I should have spent the time and effort to remove
and re-set the original chuck to try to get it aligned better before I spent the money on a new chuck. The Nova depth indicator occluded the upper ring on the keyless chuck just enough that I could not tighten the chuck. Fortunately a friend was able to mill
a little off the bottom of the depth indicator and now the chuck works the way it should.
By the way, the new chuck cost $500 through a US supplier. I found out too late that an outfit in the UK would sell it and send it to me for half of that.
To make a long story short, it is a decent consumer-grade drill press. I love the DVR and will never go back to changing belts, but would certainly look for that feature in sturdier drill presses if I had to replace my Nova.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: Advice on dial indicator for checking run of a drill press/input on Novs Voyager Drill Press
Dave another way, quite handy for specific tasks. Three point carbide anvils.  Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 10, 2023, at 8:32 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
In addition to the great advice received, I'd buy a point set with the indicator.? They are not very expensive and come with 10-12 different tips.? Most indicators use the same threads so the tips seem interchangeable.
If only drilling in wood this is irrelevant but if drilling in metal. I've come to depend on my pin gauges to tell me how my old Moore Jig Bore is drilling.? I like to build stuff using pins and I know that usually my holes are oversized .0015-.002.? Drilling
a hole and measuring it with a pin gives you information on how the runout affects the bore.? Sometimes the angular contact bearings used on drill presses will show runout when not under load but will tighten up loaded as that is how the bearings are designed.?
I'm not familiar with the Nova but if you work much with metal, pin gauges tell you a lot and you don't need an expensive precision set for most work.
Dave
I have three dial indicators - two Wen and a Teclock. The Wen’s were very inexpensive; the price of the Teclock is lost in time. All three are serviceable and give repeatable results. For setting up machines they seem to be adequate,
One of my mag bases is the old style with separate arms. The other is a brand name with an articulated arm like the one in David Best’s r]suggestion. Both work, but the articulated one is much easier to use. I use these very sporadically, and there is a definite
learning curve to the old style and I have to re-climb that learning curve every time I use it. The old style has a fine adjuster that my articulated arm does not. I rarely feel a need to use that fine adjuster.
Some bases attach to a ug on the back of the indicator, and others attach to the shaft of the indicator. I favor gripping the shaft, particularly when trying to get parallel to a saw table. Make sure your base and indicator are compatible.
I have the Nova Voyager. I like the computer speed control. I usually use the speeds suggested by the machine, but some folks disagree with those suggestions. It has a relatively generous work table. Other than the fancy DVR it is a pretty basic light drill
press.
It has no work light, and I went through several iterations before I found a light that works. No laser designator, but I’m not sure those are that helpful.
I tried once to update the computer, but was not successful. One day perhaps ?I’ll try again. One has to install a program on a laptop and take the laptop to the drill press to do the update. That is a real nuisance, and the update instructions are not easy
to follow.
Not too long ago I was having issues with run-out. The quill seemed to be true, so I replaced the original chuck with an Albrecht (maybe I am spelling that correctly) keyless chuck with integral Morse taper. I should have spent the time and effort to remove
and re-set the original chuck to try to get it aligned better before I spent the money on a new chuck. The Nova depth indicator occluded the upper ring on the keyless chuck just enough that I could not tighten the chuck. Fortunately a friend was able to mill
a little off the bottom of the depth indicator and now the chuck works the way it should.
By the way, the new chuck cost $500 through a US supplier. I found out too late that an outfit in the UK would sell it and send it to me for half of that.
To make a long story short, it is a decent consumer-grade drill press. I love the DVR and will never go back to changing belts, but would certainly look for that feature in sturdier drill presses if I had to replace my Nova.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: Rangate 300 Lift Cart
Here's another vote for the Husky tables.
I use mine for an assembly/outfeed table for my bandsaw.?
I have the original casters on mine at the moment. My floor is smooth enough, so it hasn't been an issue.
|
Re: AD941 Planer Thickness Variation
Okay, thanks everyone. I'll just leave this adjustment alone. I spent virtually the whole weekend getting the infeed table coplanar with the outfeed table and got every measurement point within 0.001"...so I think it got my mind obsessing about a level of adjustability that is tough to achieve (and maintain). I guess it's time to just put the machine into service and start enjoying it ?
|
Re: AD941 Planer Thickness Variation
Yes.
- Is this worth adjusting?
- In other words...is the procedure just as error-prone, difficult, and what-not as to not make it worth attempting. I realize that this is wood and many people wouldn't care about 0.005" variation, but I do.
It’s similar in scope, but I don’t recommend it for something like 0.005” difference across the thicknessed material. ? The adjustment is accomplished by altering the planer table height on one side or the other. ?The mechanism is shown below and the specific adjustment technique varies slightly from model to model, vintage to vintage. ?But basically you either rotate one or two of the threaded posts clocking position by rotating the item #3 (if it has slots that allow rotation once the attachment bolts are loosened), or the chain is loosened, and the sprocket is re-clocked where it attaches to the underside of the planer table. ?Either way, since the support post is threaded, it acts alike a ball screw, and changing the clocking will either raise or lower the table at the corner post that’s being adjusted. ?It’s a fussy adjustment for a couple of reasons: ? 1) it backbreaking positionally, 2) the proper way to do it is to employ a dial indicator setup to visualize the height difference from the table surface to the cutterhead circumference on both sides, and 3) it’s really messy.
 . ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
|
Re: AD941 Planer Thickness Variation
Andy,
I’d say that’s close enough for the girls I go out with! ?????
Wade
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Show quoted text
On Jul 10, 2023, at 6:54 PM, Andy Pickler <andy.pickler@...> wrote:
?I'm also done with the self-commissioning of my new AD941. I ran a couple of 3" wide pieces of red oak, one on the left side of the planer ("thicknesser") and one on the right. There was about 0.005" in variation of their thickness.
- Is this adjustable?
- Is this worth adjusting?
- In other words...is the procedure just as error-prone, difficult, and what-not as to not make it worth attempting. I realize that this is wood and many people wouldn't care about 0.005" variation, but I do.
|
Re: Rangate 300 Lift Cart
Dan,
The Felder Fat 300 S is on sale right now! ?Save $95 ????
Wade
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Show quoted text
On Jul 10, 2023, at 8:04 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? Nothing wrong with the Husky carts, I have three 54” benches and I use them as material carts around my shop. They double as infeed/outfeed for jointer, planer, and wide belt sander. For $220 a piece, I’ve still got a long ways to go until I reach the price of one felder fat300 cart. Just some food for thought. Of course if I won the lottery, I would ditch the husky carts and replace promptly with felder/Barth/ran gate style carts.? On Jul 10, 2023, at 7:33 PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Wouldn’t even consider anything from Husky, but that Barth 300XL & Felder Fat 300S look really nice, especially because these two offer the height adjustment from both sides of the cart. ?
Does anyone have the frame dimensions for the Barth 300 XL? ?And Cost too?
Thx,
Wade? On Jul 10, 2023, at 3:31 PM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
?I have a 500v (not used as a mobile cart) and I have seen other lift carts. ?I was thinking about the Rangate lift cart as my mobile cart after a shop revision, and it was suggested I get a Husky from Home Depot. ?They have been mentioned on this forum with great reviews. ?I went with that. ?A few inches less wide, which was perfect for navigating areas where I had a bit less clearance than ideal. ?Wheels upgraded to larger ones. ?Super easy to move around as it is so light, yet no problem supporting quite a load of wood.
And.... what a $$$ savings!!! ?Now, no, it is not of the "build quality" of Rangate or Barth, but for me, the Husky suits me better and I would not want to swap it for a more robust cart unless it was to sell the robust cart, and use the money to buy another Husky and have $ left over.
Something to consider.?
|
Re: Rangate 300 Lift Cart
Tom Morris,
Which model Barth? ?Would you mind sharing the cost?
Thx,
Wade
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Show quoted text
On Jul 10, 2023, at 7:18 PM, Tom Morris <morrist@...> wrote:
?I have both the Rangate and Barth lift tables, both very nice and equal build quality. I do notice that the Barth raises more per pump stroke. Also, unless they now offer a top option, the Rangate couldn’t be ordered with a top. I ended up buying a sheet of 1 inch Baltic birch and making my own .
Tom Morris?
wichita, ks
|
Re: Rangate 300 Lift Cart
Nothing wrong with the Husky carts, I have three 54” benches and I use them as material carts around my shop. They double as infeed/outfeed for jointer, planer, and wide belt sander. For $220 a piece, I’ve still got a long ways to go until I reach the price of one felder fat300 cart. Just some food for thought. Of course if I won the lottery, I would ditch the husky carts and replace promptly with felder/Barth/ran gate style carts.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 10, 2023, at 7:33 PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Wouldn’t even consider anything from Husky, but that Barth 300XL & Felder Fat 300S look really nice, especially because these two offer the height adjustment from both sides of the cart. ?
Does anyone have the frame dimensions for the Barth 300 XL? ?And Cost too?
Thx,
Wade? On Jul 10, 2023, at 3:31 PM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
?I have a 500v (not used as a mobile cart) and I have seen other lift carts. ?I was thinking about the Rangate lift cart as my mobile cart after a shop revision, and it was suggested I get a Husky from Home Depot. ?They have been mentioned on this forum with great reviews. ?I went with that. ?A few inches less wide, which was perfect for navigating areas where I had a bit less clearance than ideal. ?Wheels upgraded to larger ones. ?Super easy to move around as it is so light, yet no problem supporting quite a load of wood.
And.... what a $$$ savings!!! ?Now, no, it is not of the "build quality" of Rangate or Barth, but for me, the Husky suits me better and I would not want to swap it for a more robust cart unless it was to sell the robust cart, and use the money to buy another Husky and have $ left over.
Something to consider.?
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Re: Rangate 300 Lift Cart
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Brian
Andy Pickler
David P. Best
Dan Gavrilyuk