I have a 2005 KF700 w/ 600sqft if space. I regularly switch out the spindles. It takes a ~5 minutes and then I have a sliding router table that goes 15k rpm AND tilts. No router and lift table is going to do that. The router spindle in a smaller hobbyist shop is worth it for floor space imo. Everything I can't do or don't want to change out the spindle for (rarely) I can do by hand or on a track.
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
I think you may be correct. The measurements were made with the clamping locked down tight - I may be twisting the table. I will loosen the clamp first and take more measurements.
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Re: Felder Silent Power Dado 6.3-20mm
#forsale
Thank you all, and thank you David and Dr. Lucky for the images, measurements, and recommendations - they are all extremely helpful! I appreciate this group's constant support and input. Your in-depth analysis and experience is exceptional. Thank you for sharing it with us all.
Thank you,
Steve
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
As Brian says any deflection with tighting the table is bad sign ,what ever you do in one corner it moves the opposite corner at bias. Tables should sit on ?temples zero zip no play Designing and building for 50 years
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On May 23, 2023, at 7:50 AM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Infeed ?adjust the hinge side co plane to out feed hinge edge than adjust temple bolts on operator side . Designing and building for 50 years On May 22, 2023, at 8:15 PM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
?Thanks Brian,
Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment.
I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up with the following:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 1: .043 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 2: .001 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 3: .086 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 4: .001 +/-
It's interesting that the two tables are close at the rear, but off at the front. I will have to think about my next step.
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I think 125 diameter is largest cutter under table to tilt with felder 700 series other wise nice size not to big or small , get run bearing to match 2 can be handy for tenons or high profiling. Designing and building for 50 years
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On May 23, 2023, at 5:54 AM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? The INCRA router table is amazing. I have a shaper. It¡¯s great for larger work but I find a router table indispensable in the work I do.?
The INCRA can do so many things, and being able to hog out rebates and grooves on the shaper then go directly to the router table is a big plus for my individual workflow.? Thanks for the input so far. It sounds like the group consensus would be to continue to use my router for the things it's good at. I built a very simple MDF table with a lift and homemade fence about 15 years ago. I was planning a serious upgrade like an Incra prior to buying the KF700. An Incra top and fence will run me almost as much as the Felder high speed spindle, not to mention still taking up about a 2'x3' footprint. I can certainly understand that removing the Aigner fence will be a PITA if I just need to use the saw briefly.?
Floor space is getting to be a premium. I just brought home a 3' x 5' granite surface plate that I need to work into the floor plan. Hmmm....
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
Infeed ?adjust the hinge side co plane to out feed hinge edge than adjust temple bolts on operator side . Designing and building for 50 years
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On May 22, 2023, at 8:15 PM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
?Thanks Brian,
Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment.
I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up with the following:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 1: .043 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 2: .001 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 3: .086 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 4: .001 +/-
It's interesting that the two tables are close at the rear, but off at the front. I will have to think about my next step.
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The INCRA router table is amazing. I have a shaper. It¡¯s great for larger work but I find a router table indispensable in the work I do.?
The INCRA can do so many things, and being able to hog out rebates and grooves on the shaper then go directly to the router table is a big plus for my individual workflow.?
Thanks for the input so far. It sounds like the group consensus would be to continue to use my router for the things it's good at. I built a very simple MDF table with a lift and homemade fence about 15 years ago. I was planning a serious upgrade like an Incra prior to buying the KF700. An Incra top and fence will run me almost as much as the Felder high speed spindle, not to mention still taking up about a 2'x3' footprint. I can certainly understand that removing the Aigner fence will be a PITA if I just need to use the saw briefly.?
Floor space is getting to be a premium. I just brought home a 3' x 5' granite surface plate that I need to work into the floor plan. Hmmm....
|
Thanks for the input so far. It sounds like the group consensus would be to continue to use my router for the things it's good at. I built a very simple MDF table with a lift and homemade fence about 15 years ago. I was planning a serious upgrade like an Incra prior to buying the KF700. An Incra top and fence will run me almost as much as the Felder high speed spindle, not to mention still taking up about a 2'x3' footprint. I can certainly understand that removing the Aigner fence will be a PITA if I just need to use the saw briefly.?
Floor space is getting to be a premium. I just brought home a 3' x 5' granite surface plate that I need to work into the floor plan. Hmmm....
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
OK, just to confirm, you have the outfeed table set level to the cutterhead, correct??
If so, then first, check to see if your clamping the infeed table down and twisting it, you want to just barely tighten the clamp closest to the cutting head first to hold the table down and see what you have. If the temple bolt furthest from the cutterhead is too high, loosen it and drop it down. We want a three point contact, the two hinges and the closer temple bolt.
Then, adjust the non-hinge side to be the same distance below the outfeed table as the hinge side, so roughly .043¡± by jacking up the temple bolt. When the table is level to the cutterhead across the width, then double check the #2 and #4 points again.
If #2 and #4 are too low or high, you adjust the hinge closest to #2 to raise/lower the table to bring the table into coplanar with the outfeed.
Then the last step is to raise the temple bolt closest to #4 until it is just supporting the table, but not raising it. Now, you should be able to clamp the table as usual and not have it deflect.
Hope all that helps...
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 22, 2023, at 6:15 PM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian,
Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment.
I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up with the following:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 1: .043 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 2: .001 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 3: .086 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 4: .001 +/-
It's interesting that the two tables are close at the rear, but off at the front. I will have to think about my next step.
|
Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
Thanks Brian,
Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment.
I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up with the following:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 1: .043 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 2: .001 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 3: .086 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 4: .001 +/-
It's interesting that the two tables are close at the rear, but off at the front. I will have to think about my next step.
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
Ok, long straight edge at the hinge side of the table, is the infeed the same height close to the cutterhead and far away from the cutterhead? If so, and the only issue is that it drops .020¡± as you come to the temple bolt side, then you can raise the temple bolts and the table will now be coplanar with the outfeed.
If the infeed table is different amounts of distance below the outfeed in a straight line, then you are going to have to adjust both the hinge and temple bolt side. See sketch below.
 Brian Lamb blamb11@... www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 22, 2023, at 3:16 PM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
The infeed table is not parallel to the outfeed in the long direction> It can't be because the whole infeed table is lower on the handle side and higher on the hinge side. So the choice is raise the handle side or lower the hinge side. Again, the difference is about .020".
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
The infeed table is not parallel to the outfeed in the long direction> It can't be because the whole infeed table is lower on the handle side and higher on the hinge side. So the choice is raise the handle side or lower the hinge side. Again, the difference is about .020".
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
If you have the infeed parallel to the outfeed in the long direction, but it¡¯s not level side to side, then I would adjust your out board side by the handle.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 22, 2023, at 11:54 AM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
I just finished converting a 15 yr. old A3-31 to a Shelix cutter head. I have my outfeed table in line with the new cutter head. My infeed table is not coplanar with the outfeed table. Should I attempt adjustment of the infeed table by raising the adjustment screws on the handle side, or lowering the adjustments screws on the hinge side? The difference in the infeed table from front to back is about .020". Any suggestions?
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I agree with David on this. ??I am certainly a lower skill level than most in this group? I have accumulated some heads but have others I
was sure I would use and have never put them on my shaper.
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?I recommend you NOT buy a collection of shaper tooling prospectively. ?Buy as you need them. ?I could make the case that everyone needs a rebate head, but when it comes to profile cutters and groovers, the type of projects you embark on will
have a lot of influence on which specific cutters to buy. ?I have some shaper cutters that I was convinced I would need and haven¡¯t been used once in 20 years. ?
David Best - via mobile phone?
David Best - via mobile phone?
On May 22, 2023, at 6:52 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?For new shaper owners I always suggest 3 cutters to start with
1) a 125mm diameter carbide rebate head for rebates, planing, bevelling and pattern copying?
2) an adjustable groover for grooves, bridle joints and tenons.
3) a 40 or 40/50mm Euroblock head with limiters for steel knives, which will handle most of your solid wood profiling
As you have a Felder, I presume you have a curve guard, I would add a few back bearing guide rings including a 125mm one
Regards, Rod
-- Michael Marsico
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? I recommend you NOT buy a collection of shaper tooling prospectively. ?Buy as you need them. ?I could make the case that everyone needs a rebate head, but when it comes to profile cutters and groovers, the type of projects you embark on will have a lot of influence on which specific cutters to buy. ?I have some shaper cutters that I was convinced I would need and haven¡¯t been used once in 20 years. ? David Best - via mobile phone? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On May 22, 2023, at 6:52 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?For new shaper owners I always suggest 3 cutters to start with
1) a 125mm diameter carbide rebate head for rebates, planing, bevelling and pattern copying?
2) an adjustable groover for grooves, bridle joints and tenons.
3) a 40 or 40/50mm Euroblock head with limiters for steel knives, which will handle most of your solid wood profiling
As you have a Felder, I presume you have a curve guard, I would add a few back bearing guide rings including a 125mm one
Regards, Rod
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Why 125mm for the rebate head specifically? No opinion just curious.?
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
I just finished converting a 15 yr. old A3-31 to a Shelix cutter head. I have my outfeed table in line with the new cutter head. My infeed table is not coplanar with the outfeed table. Should I attempt adjustment of the infeed table by raising the adjustment screws on the handle side, or lowering the adjustments screws on the hinge side? The difference in the infeed table from front to back is about .020". Any suggestions?
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Re: Electronic brake C3 31
I just measured the time for my table saw blade to stop spinning. ?
1) Powered up, start the table saw then stop ie brake operational - time to stop 10 seconds
2) Powered up, start the table saw then turn off the breaker - time to stop 20 seconds ? ?thus proving the brake module is working.
Reason why it takes longer to stop than yours, Jonathan, is that mine is a replacement from the OEM and IIRC there are two variable resistors that need tweaking. ?Now without knowing what the parameters should be, I¡¯ve not bothered.
The ¡¯take-away¡¯ from this IMO is that (1) and (2) are a quick way to determine if the brake module is working or not since there is more inertia in the table saw than the planer/thicknesser and so easier to see the difference in time between (1) and (2)
HTH
Roger
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On 22 May 2023, at 04:45, Jonathan Martens < jonathan@...> wrote:
It is item 7 Bremsplatine (brake PCB). I am fairly certain it has some faulty component(s).?
My blade stops almost instantly, shaper runs a little longer but stops quickly enough to hear it buzzing a few seconds after it stopped (w/o ear protection and dust collector off)?
Kind regards,?
Jonathan?
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Re: Newbie with questions
As others have said, the 4 function combination machine is best suited to a large square shop where you have good access from four sides.
For that reason I chose an A3 jointer/planer and a B3 saw/shaper.
I replaced 4 Canadian General machines with the above 13 years ago and couldn¡¯t be happier with the capacity, capability and safety, I wouldn¡¯t go back to North American style machines
Regards, Rod
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For new shaper owners I always suggest 3 cutters to start with
1) a 125mm diameter carbide rebate head for rebates, planing, bevelling and pattern copying?
2) an adjustable groover for grooves, bridle joints and tenons.
3) a 40 or 40/50mm Euroblock head with limiters for steel knives, which will handle most of your solid wood profiling
As you have a Felder, I presume you have a curve guard, I would add a few back bearing guide rings including a 125mm one
Regards, Rod
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David P. Best
rodsheridan