Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
Mine are not Mac’s. I installed them a little different, my connector has a larger nut then the quick connects and would not fit on the left side (just barely, to close to take a chance) was even tight under the tee slot but works and yes easy to remove clamp as the fitting swivels. I never take them of anyway.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 16, 2022, at 8:39 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Steve’s setup is identical to my mounting arrangement. ?His switches are different, but the air plumbing is the same. 
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Subject:?Re: [FOG] Airtight Clamps on a K700S
Date:?March 16, 2022 at 5:24:46 PM PDT
I installed them on my K700S last summer. ?Fantastic accessory that I would now consider essential.?
|
Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
Steve’s setup is identical to my mounting arrangement. ?His switches are different, but the air plumbing is the same. 
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Subject:?Re: [FOG] Airtight Clamps on a K700S
Date:?March 16, 2022 at 5:24:46 PM PDT
I installed them on my K700S last summer. ?Fantastic accessory that I would now consider essential.?
|
Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
I installed them on my K700S last summer. ?Fantastic accessory that I would now consider essential.?
As you can see I had to cut out some internal aluminum so make room for the fitting but it’s really no big deal to do. I just used a small sawsall, made several cuts and broke your the small pieces then cleaned up a little with a die grinder.?
Steve Lyde
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 16, 2022, at 7:08 PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Hello FOG members,
I’m considering an investment on a set of Mac’s Airtight Clamps. ?I have a new K700S, with a two button, remote switch, configuration at the end of the slider bed. ?(picture attached) ?Does anybody have this exact switch configuration on their K700S and could let me know how your install went. ?Any pictures you could share showing the female fittings at this end of your slider would be great. ?Along with?any additional comments regarding the use and/or installation of these Clamps. ?Much appreciated.
Thx,
Wade
|
Airtight Clamps on a K700S
Hello FOG members,
I’m considering an investment on a set of Mac’s Airtight Clamps. ?I have a new K700S, with a two button, remote switch, configuration at the end of the slider bed. ?(picture attached) ?Does anybody have this exact switch configuration on their K700S and could let me know how your install went. ?Any pictures you could share showing the female fittings at this end of your slider would be great. ?Along with?any additional comments regarding the use and/or installation of these Clamps. ?Much appreciated.
Thx,
Wade
|
Re: Felder 315mm Silent Power Blades
I ordered my saw with a 48t and 96t blade. While plunging through the provided zci last week, I forgot to remove the riving knife and before I knew it there was a shower of sparks as the riving knife was wedged into the 48t blade in the saw at the moment.? So I took advantage of the sale and restocked on a few blades, figured I’d try the two 28t and one 14t blade for rip cuts. That’s also what soured me to make some of my own wood inserts for the saw.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 16, 2022, at 3:52 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk via groups.io <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? Stocked up in some felder silent power blades last week. Spent $355 for 5 blades with clearance pricing.?
 
|
Felder 315mm Silent Power Blades
Stocked up in some felder silent power blades last week. Spent $355 for 5 blades with clearance pricing.?
 
|
Well got the top and bottom locknuts from Felder. Tried the spindle and bearings don’t seem to be getting hot but I have an issue with the belt. In another thread where the issues with the spindle were discussed, it was shared that the bottom rib sheared off of the new belt I got from Felder. Well same thing happened with the new belt which was a D&D belt I bought online. I am no longer sure if the first belt was damaged due to bad install. The belt is tight but the flex seems comparable to the std. shaper spindle. Here are 2 short videos showing how much belt flexes under ~equal pressure. Should I reduce tension on the belts. I will also call felder tomorrow. How can I determine if there is miss alignment between spindle and motor pulley? As I write this, maybe a measurement comparison of the shaper spindle with router spindle can give me an idea. BTW, the damaged 8 rib belts appear to run okay if I position the missing rib on top. Not sure, what would be wrong if I just use these belts. Imran  
|
Re: advice on operating Fiama F7
yep, I know the math going from metric to imperial ( I was not leading the team that crashed the Mars Climate Orbiter), just did not realize the unit was not converting for me.? my bad.? The Italians, (along with most of the rest of the world) have a valid point to not bother with imperial at all, much less design their?UI around it.? not that the firmware changes to make it easy on us throwback Americans would have been that much extra work.??
On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 8:29 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: I guess I should have stated that, two decimal places in metric means three in inches, so you do have your .001” resolution. If you set it in metric to one decimal place you get tenths of a mm or .010” in inches. I work in inches, so it stays set for 2 decimal places.
Your offset process is the way to go, although like you determined, if blade plate to tooth varies, you might be off a bit. If you get to know your blades, determine a feeler gauge thickness to use between the stop and the fence with the larger stepped blades and you can be still accurate.
no, i just wanted readout to the nearest .001".? Probably would have been ok with plus/minus .005",? which, by my count, is 3 decimal places.? if operating in mm, which i generally?do not, then of course 2 decimal places is fine.? I would have expected that if i set the unit to inches, then all the settings would be in inches, so was initially confusing to set decimal to 2 and then switch to inches and now see 3. setting to 3 was the fatal?mistake causing all the ouEr problems.??once it became clear that the internal range was assuming mm at all times, the out of range error started making more sense in that you will have a big number quickly.? ?all good now.?
the technique i use is just slightly modified version of the one I see on your?website (thanks for the reference!), in that I have a stop on the table to set the fence against, then cut a piece of wood using the fence as a bump stop, measure that cut piece with calipers, put it in as the preset (in mm, not inches) and am good to go.? this avoids having?to worry about flexing the blade, though does mean that any differences between the teeth and blade body, for different blades, would show up as an error.? I've now used three different blades and all of them are within a few thou of each other, so have not needed to change the offset number.??
thanks again for the responses!
On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 7:01 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: You want 3 or 4 decimal places? The banding is not capable of that sort of accuracy, as it is you can get down to .0004” with it set on metric and two decimals. You would need a different banding and probably a different read head type unit, or at least different software in the unit itself.
If you read the manual, or watched the video, you can set it to instantly re-zero, which in my opinion is not the way to go, you want a deliberate 3 second push to change the zero or offset settings… but to each his own.
Thanks Brian and Cliff! ? Looks like setting decimal places to 2 and otherwise operating in “preset” mode works well enough.? I've found that setting the number of decimal?places to 4 or 3 causes ouEr errors whether next?to the mag strip or not (i do not see ouEr errors when dec is set to 2 even when not next to mag strip, so it does not appear to function as a lost signal error, at least on my unit, it just continues to show the last reading). would be nice if the manual said "unless your measurement range is below a few tens of mm, don't use more than 2".? ?I still don’t understand the functionality of asking for a password, which is posted online in the attached video and thus not much of a security feature.? if the rationale is liability reduction, any lawyer would point out the fact that said password is online and thus a conspicuous hazard anyway.? having to hold the button for a few seconds to get to the setting is plenty of inside knowledge and rigamarole to prevent accidentally changing anything.? On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 7:32 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via <rohrabacher= [email protected]> wrote:
maybe this?
On 3/14/22 5:49 PM, joe slater wrote:
Hi all,
sounds like a few of you have a great deal of experience with
these units so wanted to get tips.? I just installed an F7 on the
rip fence of my Hammer K3.? that went smoothly.? using this thing
however, is another matter.? I did not see a lot of sturm and
drang, in searching the board history, so will just assume I have
"weaknesses" (just ask my wife for her comprehensive illustrated
guide on the topic).? This product is one of the most frustrating
combinations of user interface design and not-helpful manual
writing I think I've ever seen.? After some hours I think I have
it working, but have the following questions:
- is there any way to turn off the password requirement to
access the settings?? is a real drag having to laboriously
march through the sequence to change anything.
- I kept running into the "ouEr" error message, which page 6
of the manual says is that the current value cannot be
visualized, without any explanation of what might be the
causes or how to correct it.? it was happening even when the
read head was not in proximity to the mag tape.? I was able to
get the unit to function by limiting the number of decimal
digits to 2.? when you then switch to inches, it displays
three decimal places (one thousandths resolution, which is
fine, if confusing).? apparently the F7 is doing everything
under the hood in mm and then just changes the display?? are
there other causes for the ouEr error?
- I assume the sensible workflow with the F7 is to arrange for
some sort of reference stop and associated preset in the unit,
given the mag tape is not an absolute scale (meaning if you
lift the fence such that read head is no longer with 1mm of
the tape, it will lose track of where it is). I machined an
aluminum button which fits into the scoring blade height
adjustment hole in the cast iron table.? Then I just bring the
fence to touch the button, run the preset function on the unit
and it seems to be good to go within a few thou.? Lemme know
if there are other workflows or logical stop approaches out
there.??
When I decided I wanted a DRO on my fence, I was going back and
forth between the wixey and the F7.? Now that I'm committed: I
like how compact the F7 is, and how gracefully it integrates onto
the existing scale extrusion, allowing you to flip the fence out
of the way when needed.? However, the read head on wixey is always
on the scale and thus knows where it is, thus not requiring
referencing stop and associated workflow (I don't have one, so
this is from reading what others have said).? of course the wixey
has a relatively clunky extra rail you have to mount, with a
magnetic coupling, which is less graceful and easier to bump.? the
wixey is also 1/4 the price of the F7.? time will tell if there
are differences in durability or dust resistance.? I have a wixey
DRO on my planer and can say it is waaayyy easier and more
intuitive to get set up and operate than the F7.? the F7 does have
a bunch of functions like multiple offsets, directional control
and such, but I find those functions very hard to set up and use
due to the user interface issues mentioned.? this password thing
is just crazy, at least from a hobbyist point of view.? I guess it
makes sense from a business accident liability mitigation
perspective.?
thanks!
--
Joe Slater
michigan
-- Joe Slater michigan
-- Joe Slater michigan
--
Joe Slater
michigan
|
Re: advice on operating Fiama F7
I guess I should have stated that, two decimal places in metric means three in inches, so you do have your .001” resolution. If you set it in metric to one decimal place you get tenths of a mm or .010” in inches. I work in inches, so it stays set for 2 decimal places.
Your offset process is the way to go, although like you determined, if blade plate to tooth varies, you might be off a bit. If you get to know your blades, determine a feeler gauge thickness to use between the stop and the fence with the larger stepped blades and you can be still accurate.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
no, i just wanted readout to the nearest .001".? Probably would have been ok with plus/minus .005",? which, by my count, is 3 decimal places.? if operating in mm, which i generally?do not, then of course 2 decimal places is fine.? I would have expected that if i set the unit to inches, then all the settings would be in inches, so was initially confusing to set decimal to 2 and then switch to inches and now see 3. setting to 3 was the fatal?mistake causing all the ouEr problems.??once it became clear that the internal range was assuming mm at all times, the out of range error started making more sense in that you will have a big number quickly.? ?all good now.?
the technique i use is just slightly modified version of the one I see on your?website (thanks for the reference!), in that I have a stop on the table to set the fence against, then cut a piece of wood using the fence as a bump stop, measure that cut piece with calipers, put it in as the preset (in mm, not inches) and am good to go.? this avoids having?to worry about flexing the blade, though does mean that any differences between the teeth and blade body, for different blades, would show up as an error.? I've now used three different blades and all of them are within a few thou of each other, so have not needed to change the offset number.??
thanks again for the responses!
On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 7:01 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: You want 3 or 4 decimal places? The banding is not capable of that sort of accuracy, as it is you can get down to .0004” with it set on metric and two decimals. You would need a different banding and probably a different read head type unit, or at least different software in the unit itself.
If you read the manual, or watched the video, you can set it to instantly re-zero, which in my opinion is not the way to go, you want a deliberate 3 second push to change the zero or offset settings… but to each his own.
Thanks Brian and Cliff! ? Looks like setting decimal places to 2 and otherwise operating in “preset” mode works well enough.? I've found that setting the number of decimal?places to 4 or 3 causes ouEr errors whether next?to the mag strip or not (i do not see ouEr errors when dec is set to 2 even when not next to mag strip, so it does not appear to function as a lost signal error, at least on my unit, it just continues to show the last reading). would be nice if the manual said "unless your measurement range is below a few tens of mm, don't use more than 2".? ?I still don’t understand the functionality of asking for a password, which is posted online in the attached video and thus not much of a security feature.? if the rationale is liability reduction, any lawyer would point out the fact that said password is online and thus a conspicuous hazard anyway.? having to hold the button for a few seconds to get to the setting is plenty of inside knowledge and rigamarole to prevent accidentally changing anything.? On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 7:32 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via <rohrabacher= [email protected]> wrote:
maybe this?
On 3/14/22 5:49 PM, joe slater wrote:
Hi all,
sounds like a few of you have a great deal of experience with
these units so wanted to get tips.? I just installed an F7 on the
rip fence of my Hammer K3.? that went smoothly.? using this thing
however, is another matter.? I did not see a lot of sturm and
drang, in searching the board history, so will just assume I have
"weaknesses" (just ask my wife for her comprehensive illustrated
guide on the topic).? This product is one of the most frustrating
combinations of user interface design and not-helpful manual
writing I think I've ever seen.? After some hours I think I have
it working, but have the following questions:
- is there any way to turn off the password requirement to
access the settings?? is a real drag having to laboriously
march through the sequence to change anything.
- I kept running into the "ouEr" error message, which page 6
of the manual says is that the current value cannot be
visualized, without any explanation of what might be the
causes or how to correct it.? it was happening even when the
read head was not in proximity to the mag tape.? I was able to
get the unit to function by limiting the number of decimal
digits to 2.? when you then switch to inches, it displays
three decimal places (one thousandths resolution, which is
fine, if confusing).? apparently the F7 is doing everything
under the hood in mm and then just changes the display?? are
there other causes for the ouEr error?
- I assume the sensible workflow with the F7 is to arrange for
some sort of reference stop and associated preset in the unit,
given the mag tape is not an absolute scale (meaning if you
lift the fence such that read head is no longer with 1mm of
the tape, it will lose track of where it is). I machined an
aluminum button which fits into the scoring blade height
adjustment hole in the cast iron table.? Then I just bring the
fence to touch the button, run the preset function on the unit
and it seems to be good to go within a few thou.? Lemme know
if there are other workflows or logical stop approaches out
there.??
When I decided I wanted a DRO on my fence, I was going back and
forth between the wixey and the F7.? Now that I'm committed: I
like how compact the F7 is, and how gracefully it integrates onto
the existing scale extrusion, allowing you to flip the fence out
of the way when needed.? However, the read head on wixey is always
on the scale and thus knows where it is, thus not requiring
referencing stop and associated workflow (I don't have one, so
this is from reading what others have said).? of course the wixey
has a relatively clunky extra rail you have to mount, with a
magnetic coupling, which is less graceful and easier to bump.? the
wixey is also 1/4 the price of the F7.? time will tell if there
are differences in durability or dust resistance.? I have a wixey
DRO on my planer and can say it is waaayyy easier and more
intuitive to get set up and operate than the F7.? the F7 does have
a bunch of functions like multiple offsets, directional control
and such, but I find those functions very hard to set up and use
due to the user interface issues mentioned.? this password thing
is just crazy, at least from a hobbyist point of view.? I guess it
makes sense from a business accident liability mitigation
perspective.?
thanks!
--
Joe Slater
michigan
-- Joe Slater michigan
-- Joe Slater michigan
|
Re: advice on operating Fiama F7
no, i just wanted readout to the nearest .001".? Probably would have been ok with plus/minus .005",? which, by my count, is 3 decimal places.? if operating in mm, which i generally?do not, then of course 2 decimal places is fine.? I would have expected that if i set the unit to inches, then all the settings would be in inches, so was initially confusing to set decimal to 2 and then switch to inches and now see 3. setting to 3 was the fatal?mistake causing all the ouEr problems.??once it became clear that the internal range was assuming mm at all times, the out of range error started making more sense in that you will have a big number quickly.? ?all good now.?
the technique i use is just slightly modified version of the one I see on your?website (thanks for the reference!), in that I have a stop on the table to set the fence against, then cut a piece of wood using the fence as a bump stop, measure that cut piece with calipers, put it in as the preset (in mm, not inches) and am good to go.? this avoids having?to worry about flexing the blade, though does mean that any differences between the teeth and blade body, for different blades, would show up as an error.? I've now used three different blades and all of them are within a few thou of each other, so have not needed to change the offset number.??
thanks again for the responses!
On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 7:01 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: You want 3 or 4 decimal places? The banding is not capable of that sort of accuracy, as it is you can get down to .0004” with it set on metric and two decimals. You would need a different banding and probably a different read head type unit, or at least different software in the unit itself.
If you read the manual, or watched the video, you can set it to instantly re-zero, which in my opinion is not the way to go, you want a deliberate 3 second push to change the zero or offset settings… but to each his own.
Thanks Brian and Cliff! ? Looks like setting decimal places to 2 and otherwise operating in “preset” mode works well enough.? I've found that setting the number of decimal?places to 4 or 3 causes ouEr errors whether next?to the mag strip or not (i do not see ouEr errors when dec is set to 2 even when not next to mag strip, so it does not appear to function as a lost signal error, at least on my unit, it just continues to show the last reading). would be nice if the manual said "unless your measurement range is below a few tens of mm, don't use more than 2".? ?I still don’t understand the functionality of asking for a password, which is posted online in the attached video and thus not much of a security feature.? if the rationale is liability reduction, any lawyer would point out the fact that said password is online and thus a conspicuous hazard anyway.? having to hold the button for a few seconds to get to the setting is plenty of inside knowledge and rigamarole to prevent accidentally changing anything.? On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 7:32 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via <rohrabacher= [email protected]> wrote:
maybe this?
On 3/14/22 5:49 PM, joe slater wrote:
Hi all,
sounds like a few of you have a great deal of experience with
these units so wanted to get tips.? I just installed an F7 on the
rip fence of my Hammer K3.? that went smoothly.? using this thing
however, is another matter.? I did not see a lot of sturm and
drang, in searching the board history, so will just assume I have
"weaknesses" (just ask my wife for her comprehensive illustrated
guide on the topic).? This product is one of the most frustrating
combinations of user interface design and not-helpful manual
writing I think I've ever seen.? After some hours I think I have
it working, but have the following questions:
- is there any way to turn off the password requirement to
access the settings?? is a real drag having to laboriously
march through the sequence to change anything.
- I kept running into the "ouEr" error message, which page 6
of the manual says is that the current value cannot be
visualized, without any explanation of what might be the
causes or how to correct it.? it was happening even when the
read head was not in proximity to the mag tape.? I was able to
get the unit to function by limiting the number of decimal
digits to 2.? when you then switch to inches, it displays
three decimal places (one thousandths resolution, which is
fine, if confusing).? apparently the F7 is doing everything
under the hood in mm and then just changes the display?? are
there other causes for the ouEr error?
- I assume the sensible workflow with the F7 is to arrange for
some sort of reference stop and associated preset in the unit,
given the mag tape is not an absolute scale (meaning if you
lift the fence such that read head is no longer with 1mm of
the tape, it will lose track of where it is). I machined an
aluminum button which fits into the scoring blade height
adjustment hole in the cast iron table.? Then I just bring the
fence to touch the button, run the preset function on the unit
and it seems to be good to go within a few thou.? Lemme know
if there are other workflows or logical stop approaches out
there.??
When I decided I wanted a DRO on my fence, I was going back and
forth between the wixey and the F7.? Now that I'm committed: I
like how compact the F7 is, and how gracefully it integrates onto
the existing scale extrusion, allowing you to flip the fence out
of the way when needed.? However, the read head on wixey is always
on the scale and thus knows where it is, thus not requiring
referencing stop and associated workflow (I don't have one, so
this is from reading what others have said).? of course the wixey
has a relatively clunky extra rail you have to mount, with a
magnetic coupling, which is less graceful and easier to bump.? the
wixey is also 1/4 the price of the F7.? time will tell if there
are differences in durability or dust resistance.? I have a wixey
DRO on my planer and can say it is waaayyy easier and more
intuitive to get set up and operate than the F7.? the F7 does have
a bunch of functions like multiple offsets, directional control
and such, but I find those functions very hard to set up and use
due to the user interface issues mentioned.? this password thing
is just crazy, at least from a hobbyist point of view.? I guess it
makes sense from a business accident liability mitigation
perspective.?
thanks!
--
Joe Slater
michigan
-- Joe Slater michigan
--
Joe Slater
michigan
|
Re: Remote control for 3ph AF22.
Hi Taylor,
I tried Ali Express for electrical components and got junk. You may get lucky or not. I personally would buy used in USA (from electrical salvage retailers) before resorting to Aliexpress. I bought a used 3phase contactor for 10HP RPC motor and it was working when I sold it after 18 yrs.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 15, 2022, at 7:26 PM, TaylorA <tayloradley2001@...> wrote: ? of course! Its just 2 aliexpress parts. The contactor seems to be out of stock now but its just a generic part.
|
Re: Remote control for 3ph AF22.
of course! Its just 2 aliexpress parts. The contactor seems to be out of stock now but its just a generic part.
|
Re: advice on operating Fiama F7
You want 3 or 4 decimal places? The banding is not capable of that sort of accuracy, as it is you can get down to .0004” with it set on metric and two decimals. You would need a different banding and probably a different read head type unit, or at least different software in the unit itself.
If you read the manual, or watched the video, you can set it to instantly re-zero, which in my opinion is not the way to go, you want a deliberate 3 second push to change the zero or offset settings… but to each his own.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks Brian and Cliff! ? Looks like setting decimal places to 2 and otherwise operating in “preset” mode works well enough.? I've found that setting the number of decimal?places to 4 or 3 causes ouEr errors whether next?to the mag strip or not (i do not see ouEr errors when dec is set to 2 even when not next to mag strip, so it does not appear to function as a lost signal error, at least on my unit, it just continues to show the last reading). would be nice if the manual said "unless your measurement range is below a few tens of mm, don't use more than 2".? ?I still don’t understand the functionality of asking for a password, which is posted online in the attached video and thus not much of a security feature.? if the rationale is liability reduction, any lawyer would point out the fact that said password is online and thus a conspicuous hazard anyway.? having to hold the button for a few seconds to get to the setting is plenty of inside knowledge and rigamarole to prevent accidentally changing anything.? On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 7:32 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via <rohrabacher= [email protected]> wrote:
maybe this?
On 3/14/22 5:49 PM, joe slater wrote:
Hi all,
sounds like a few of you have a great deal of experience with
these units so wanted to get tips.? I just installed an F7 on the
rip fence of my Hammer K3.? that went smoothly.? using this thing
however, is another matter.? I did not see a lot of sturm and
drang, in searching the board history, so will just assume I have
"weaknesses" (just ask my wife for her comprehensive illustrated
guide on the topic).? This product is one of the most frustrating
combinations of user interface design and not-helpful manual
writing I think I've ever seen.? After some hours I think I have
it working, but have the following questions:
- is there any way to turn off the password requirement to
access the settings?? is a real drag having to laboriously
march through the sequence to change anything.
- I kept running into the "ouEr" error message, which page 6
of the manual says is that the current value cannot be
visualized, without any explanation of what might be the
causes or how to correct it.? it was happening even when the
read head was not in proximity to the mag tape.? I was able to
get the unit to function by limiting the number of decimal
digits to 2.? when you then switch to inches, it displays
three decimal places (one thousandths resolution, which is
fine, if confusing).? apparently the F7 is doing everything
under the hood in mm and then just changes the display?? are
there other causes for the ouEr error?
- I assume the sensible workflow with the F7 is to arrange for
some sort of reference stop and associated preset in the unit,
given the mag tape is not an absolute scale (meaning if you
lift the fence such that read head is no longer with 1mm of
the tape, it will lose track of where it is). I machined an
aluminum button which fits into the scoring blade height
adjustment hole in the cast iron table.? Then I just bring the
fence to touch the button, run the preset function on the unit
and it seems to be good to go within a few thou.? Lemme know
if there are other workflows or logical stop approaches out
there.??
When I decided I wanted a DRO on my fence, I was going back and
forth between the wixey and the F7.? Now that I'm committed: I
like how compact the F7 is, and how gracefully it integrates onto
the existing scale extrusion, allowing you to flip the fence out
of the way when needed.? However, the read head on wixey is always
on the scale and thus knows where it is, thus not requiring
referencing stop and associated workflow (I don't have one, so
this is from reading what others have said).? of course the wixey
has a relatively clunky extra rail you have to mount, with a
magnetic coupling, which is less graceful and easier to bump.? the
wixey is also 1/4 the price of the F7.? time will tell if there
are differences in durability or dust resistance.? I have a wixey
DRO on my planer and can say it is waaayyy easier and more
intuitive to get set up and operate than the F7.? the F7 does have
a bunch of functions like multiple offsets, directional control
and such, but I find those functions very hard to set up and use
due to the user interface issues mentioned.? this password thing
is just crazy, at least from a hobbyist point of view.? I guess it
makes sense from a business accident liability mitigation
perspective.?
thanks!
--
Joe Slater
michigan
-- Joe Slater michigan
|
Re: advice on operating Fiama F7
Thanks Brian and Cliff! ? Looks like setting decimal places to 2 and otherwise operating in “preset” mode works well enough.? I've found that setting the number of decimal?places to 4 or 3 causes ouEr errors whether next?to the mag strip or not (i do not see ouEr errors when dec is set to 2 even when not next to mag strip, so it does not appear to function as a lost signal error, at least on my unit, it just continues to show the last reading). would be nice if the manual said "unless your measurement range is below a few tens of mm, don't use more than 2".? ?I still don’t understand the functionality of asking for a password, which is posted online in the attached video and thus not much of a security feature.? if the rationale is liability reduction, any lawyer would point out the fact that said password is online and thus a conspicuous hazard anyway.? having to hold the button for a few seconds to get to the setting is plenty of inside knowledge and rigamarole to prevent accidentally changing anything.? On Tue, Mar 15, 2022 at 7:32 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via <rohrabacher= [email protected]> wrote:
maybe this?
On 3/14/22 5:49 PM, joe slater wrote:
Hi all,
sounds like a few of you have a great deal of experience with
these units so wanted to get tips.? I just installed an F7 on the
rip fence of my Hammer K3.? that went smoothly.? using this thing
however, is another matter.? I did not see a lot of sturm and
drang, in searching the board history, so will just assume I have
"weaknesses" (just ask my wife for her comprehensive illustrated
guide on the topic).? This product is one of the most frustrating
combinations of user interface design and not-helpful manual
writing I think I've ever seen.? After some hours I think I have
it working, but have the following questions:
- is there any way to turn off the password requirement to
access the settings?? is a real drag having to laboriously
march through the sequence to change anything.
- I kept running into the "ouEr" error message, which page 6
of the manual says is that the current value cannot be
visualized, without any explanation of what might be the
causes or how to correct it.? it was happening even when the
read head was not in proximity to the mag tape.? I was able to
get the unit to function by limiting the number of decimal
digits to 2.? when you then switch to inches, it displays
three decimal places (one thousandths resolution, which is
fine, if confusing).? apparently the F7 is doing everything
under the hood in mm and then just changes the display?? are
there other causes for the ouEr error?
- I assume the sensible workflow with the F7 is to arrange for
some sort of reference stop and associated preset in the unit,
given the mag tape is not an absolute scale (meaning if you
lift the fence such that read head is no longer with 1mm of
the tape, it will lose track of where it is). I machined an
aluminum button which fits into the scoring blade height
adjustment hole in the cast iron table.? Then I just bring the
fence to touch the button, run the preset function on the unit
and it seems to be good to go within a few thou.? Lemme know
if there are other workflows or logical stop approaches out
there.??
When I decided I wanted a DRO on my fence, I was going back and
forth between the wixey and the F7.? Now that I'm committed: I
like how compact the F7 is, and how gracefully it integrates onto
the existing scale extrusion, allowing you to flip the fence out
of the way when needed.? However, the read head on wixey is always
on the scale and thus knows where it is, thus not requiring
referencing stop and associated workflow (I don't have one, so
this is from reading what others have said).? of course the wixey
has a relatively clunky extra rail you have to mount, with a
magnetic coupling, which is less graceful and easier to bump.? the
wixey is also 1/4 the price of the F7.? time will tell if there
are differences in durability or dust resistance.? I have a wixey
DRO on my planer and can say it is waaayyy easier and more
intuitive to get set up and operate than the F7.? the F7 does have
a bunch of functions like multiple offsets, directional control
and such, but I find those functions very hard to set up and use
due to the user interface issues mentioned.? this password thing
is just crazy, at least from a hobbyist point of view.? I guess it
makes sense from a business accident liability mitigation
perspective.?
thanks!
--
Joe Slater
michigan
--
Joe Slater
michigan
|
Re: Motor rating vs circuit size
I agree mac that wiring on the outside of a wall can be a beautiful thing...here are some pictures from my shop.  
|
Re: advice on operating Fiama F7
maybe this?
On 3/14/22 5:49 PM, joe slater wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi all,
sounds like a few of you have a great deal of experience with
these units so wanted to get tips.? I just installed an F7 on the
rip fence of my Hammer K3.? that went smoothly.? using this thing
however, is another matter.? I did not see a lot of sturm and
drang, in searching the board history, so will just assume I have
"weaknesses" (just ask my wife for her comprehensive illustrated
guide on the topic).? This product is one of the most frustrating
combinations of user interface design and not-helpful manual
writing I think I've ever seen.? After some hours I think I have
it working, but have the following questions:
- is there any way to turn off the password requirement to
access the settings?? is a real drag having to laboriously
march through the sequence to change anything.
- I kept running into the "ouEr" error message, which page 6
of the manual says is that the current value cannot be
visualized, without any explanation of what might be the
causes or how to correct it.? it was happening even when the
read head was not in proximity to the mag tape.? I was able to
get the unit to function by limiting the number of decimal
digits to 2.? when you then switch to inches, it displays
three decimal places (one thousandths resolution, which is
fine, if confusing).? apparently the F7 is doing everything
under the hood in mm and then just changes the display?? are
there other causes for the ouEr error?
- I assume the sensible workflow with the F7 is to arrange for
some sort of reference stop and associated preset in the unit,
given the mag tape is not an absolute scale (meaning if you
lift the fence such that read head is no longer with 1mm of
the tape, it will lose track of where it is). I machined an
aluminum button which fits into the scoring blade height
adjustment hole in the cast iron table.? Then I just bring the
fence to touch the button, run the preset function on the unit
and it seems to be good to go within a few thou.? Lemme know
if there are other workflows or logical stop approaches out
there.??
When I decided I wanted a DRO on my fence, I was going back and
forth between the wixey and the F7.? Now that I'm committed: I
like how compact the F7 is, and how gracefully it integrates onto
the existing scale extrusion, allowing you to flip the fence out
of the way when needed.? However, the read head on wixey is always
on the scale and thus knows where it is, thus not requiring
referencing stop and associated workflow (I don't have one, so
this is from reading what others have said).? of course the wixey
has a relatively clunky extra rail you have to mount, with a
magnetic coupling, which is less graceful and easier to bump.? the
wixey is also 1/4 the price of the F7.? time will tell if there
are differences in durability or dust resistance.? I have a wixey
DRO on my planer and can say it is waaayyy easier and more
intuitive to get set up and operate than the F7.? the F7 does have
a bunch of functions like multiple offsets, directional control
and such, but I find those functions very hard to set up and use
due to the user interface issues mentioned.? this password thing
is just crazy, at least from a hobbyist point of view.? I guess it
makes sense from a business accident liability mitigation
perspective.?
thanks!
--
Joe Slater
michigan
|
Re: Shaper Adj Groover Cutter Question
Thanks Brett. I do have two 220mm rebate heads to do the tongue with but thought I try this cutter.
My low range 3 pc. adj. groover (IIRC 4-15 mm) does not have the T & G feature because the outside cutters are only ~2mm tall.
The T&G are not centered on this project. I was going to run material face down so registration is consistent from the face.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 14, 2022, at 10:33 PM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? If you have the spacers and the time to figure out the cutter overhang from the body, make it a rebate cutter and really maximize your utility on investment haha. Seriously though just using it as a rebate, flipping stock, and sneaking up to your desired tongue thickness might be easier than fiddling with shims and getting a centered cut. My only reservation would be that a 150mm D I'd be spinning that at max allowable 8krpm to keep cutter chatter minimized. If you've got the shims though, you can make anything work. I think what I intend to do is okay but I rather be safe than sorry. I have this CMT set and was going to use it for the first time for making a 1/4” tongue on the long side of 3/4” boards.
The illustration shows the cutters going like this for tongue. Makes sense as nickers are in the middle, i.e., above and below the tongue.
There is no interference between the cutters, in this case with 3/16” stack of shims. I will have a bigger gap for the 1/4” tongue.
The illustration shows min tongue thickness of 14mm.?I think this is because that is the minimum groove possible with this cutter.
So to the question, is there any reason I should not use it for less than 14mm tongue?
Thanks,
Imran
 
|
Re: Shaper Adj Groover Cutter Question
If you have the spacers and the time to figure out the cutter overhang from the body, make it a rebate cutter and really maximize your utility on investment haha. Seriously though just using it as a rebate, flipping stock, and sneaking up to your desired tongue thickness might be easier than fiddling with shims and getting a centered cut. My only reservation would be that a 150mm D I'd be spinning that at max allowable 8krpm to keep cutter chatter minimized. If you've got the shims though, you can make anything work.
I think what I intend to do is okay but I rather be safe than sorry. I have this CMT set and was going to use it for the first time for making a 1/4” tongue on the long side of 3/4” boards.
The illustration shows the cutters going like this for tongue. Makes sense as nickers are in the middle, i.e., above and below the tongue.
There is no interference between the cutters, in this case with 3/16” stack of shims. I will have a bigger gap for the 1/4” tongue.
The illustration shows min tongue thickness of 14mm.?I think this is because that is the minimum groove possible with this cutter.
So to the question, is there any reason I should not use it for less than 14mm tongue?
Thanks,
Imran
|
Re: advice on operating Fiama F7
Hi Joe,
You only have to access the parameters once, so typing in 273 isn’t that big of a deal. “ouEr” means you have lost signal from the magnetic banding, will definitely happen when not in range of the banding. It can also mean you have moved to fast (not likely) or you have come too close to the end of the banding.
As for metric, yes, internally it’s reading metric and depending upon how you set it, it can display imperial or metric. If you want to work in metric and the distance of your tape is over 999mm, then you need to set the precision to one decimal place as the display will only show 5 digits. If you work imperial, you can run two decimal places in metric and it will read three decimals in inches and go out to 99.999”.
With the parameters you can set it to zero wherever you are after pushing the Enter/Reset button for 3-4 seconds, that works well if you can get your stop/fence to the blade (or something cut by the blade). If you want to work with an offset, then you change the parameter and set the amount of offset in the parameters, in metric by the way, a 4” offset is 101.6mm for example.
I have all this detailed in the directions on my website… you might have to look at a couple different sets of directions, the offset settings are detailed in the Flip Stops, and you should be able to find the “zero here” settings on the parallel fences.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi all, sounds like a few of you have a great deal of experience with these units so wanted to get tips.? I just installed an F7 on the rip fence of my Hammer K3.? that went smoothly.? using this thing however, is another matter.? I did not see a lot of sturm and drang, in searching the board history, so will just assume I have "weaknesses" (just ask my wife for her comprehensive illustrated guide on the topic).? This product is one of the most frustrating combinations of user interface design and not-helpful manual writing I think I've ever seen.? After some hours I think I have it working, but have the following questions:
- is there any way to turn off the password requirement to access the settings?? is a real drag having to laboriously march through the sequence to change anything.
- I kept running into the "ouEr" error message, which page 6 of the manual says is that the current value cannot be visualized, without any explanation of what might be the causes or how to correct it.? it was happening even when the read head was not in proximity to the mag tape.? I was able to get the unit to function by limiting the number of decimal digits to 2.? when you then switch to inches, it displays three decimal places (one thousandths resolution, which is fine, if confusing).? apparently the F7 is doing everything under the hood in mm and then just changes the display?? are there other causes for the ouEr error?
- I assume the sensible workflow with the F7 is to arrange for some sort of reference stop and associated preset in the unit, given the mag tape is not an absolute scale (meaning if you lift the fence such that read head is no longer with 1mm of the tape, it will lose track of where it is). I machined an aluminum button which fits into the scoring blade height adjustment hole in the cast iron table.? Then I just bring the fence to touch the button, run the preset function on the unit and it seems to be good to go within a few thou.? Lemme know if there are other workflows or logical stop approaches out there.??
When I decided I wanted a DRO on my fence, I was going back and forth between the wixey and the F7.? Now that I'm committed: I like how compact the F7 is, and how gracefully it integrates onto the existing scale extrusion, allowing you to flip the fence out of the way when needed.? However, the read head on wixey is always on the scale and thus knows where it is, thus not requiring referencing stop and associated workflow (I don't have one, so this is from reading what others have said).? of course the wixey has a relatively clunky extra rail you have to mount, with a magnetic coupling, which is less graceful and easier to bump.? the wixey is also 1/4 the price of the F7.? time will tell if there are differences in durability or dust resistance.? I have a wixey DRO on my planer and can say it is waaayyy easier and more intuitive to get set up and operate than the F7.? the F7 does have a bunch of functions like multiple offsets, directional control and such, but I find those functions very hard to set up and use due to the user interface issues mentioned.? this password thing is just crazy, at least from a hobbyist point of view.? I guess it makes sense from a business accident liability mitigation perspective.? thanks! -- Joe Slater michigan
|
Re: Remote control for 3ph AF22.
Awesome. If you don’t mind please share the parts you used. May be helpful for someone following you in this quest ?
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 14, 2022, at 7:51 PM, TaylorA <tayloradley2001@...> wrote: ?Yeah i opened it and there are only the 3 phases and a ground wire. I managed to get a hold of an electrician who will hook it up for me when the contactor and wireless board arrive. I really appriciate the help!
-Taylor
|
David P. Best
Dan Gavrilyuk
imran
joe slater
Larry
