I have the infeed table set down enough to joint as I need. The infeed side of the jointer fence still touches the tabletop.

I just set my A3-31 up last week. I went to check mine just now. Just a thought is your infeed bed set to zero cut , maybe the reason the fence is touching the bed. I know my outfeed side of the fence is about 1/4” to 3/8” above the bed. As far as the 17mm setting for the coupler that is correct. I have an extension currently on my planer outfeed side.?

Tyler?

I will try to get pictures up this afternoon. I just jointed a board and all is well with that other than a high pitched whistle noise, but when I flipped it over to try to plane that board, it would not pull the board in. As to the fence, I loosened the bolts in the middle support of the fence to see if it could adjust and got nothing.

That does not sound right.? However, the outfeed end of the fence is a bad reference since it is stepped up by about 1/4 inch to have the necessary clearance for the infeed table when adjusting cutting height.? I think you are right to leave the rail height as per instructions.? I would call Felder support with a picture and ask for advise.?

Have you tried loosening the four nuts where the top of the fence bracket attaches to the aluminum fence extrusion? That should give you some room for adjustment.? But maybe not as much as needed.

Having just completed my own duct work, I’ll second the saw envy. I used a cut-off saw which was more time consuming than a grinder because the pipe wouldn’t fit under the blade, but I think I could keep my cuts a little more square.

Bob, is that melamine on the saw’s outrigger your own build? That looks pretty nice.

Thanks for the shop pictures.

Bird Cupps
Running Chicken Farm
Mount Horeb, WI

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Pictures might help with some suggestions. I’m not familiar with the Hammer jointer fence.

I just got me new machine in and am setting it up. The jointer fence sets unlevel, with the infeed end of the fence touching the table, and the outfeed end being roughly 3/8" high off the table. I set the bracket that the fence attaches to on the end of the table, exactly 17mm under the tabletop as was shown in the instructions. I do not see any adjustments to this angle and am sure this is not correct. Any advice? I do not want to adjust the bracket higher as I plan on attaching an extension table to this bracket occasionally (I hope that will flush with the tabletop?? with the 17mm drop).

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--
Joe Slater
michigan

I also run a PAPR mask. The Sundtrom 500 specifically with the soft hood. I really like it and would never go back to a half or full face respirator.?

+1 for the 3M Versaflo. It's actually something I don't mind wearing, despite the size. It's very comfortable on the head, well balanced, and not too heavy.
I have some substantial wood dust allergies and the Versaflo makes a lot of the things I do in the shop tolerable.
I also have the Trend respirator and it's downright unpleasant to wear compared to the Versaflo. Since everything is on the helmet, it's quite top-heavy. Sort of like wearing a light brick on your head in exchange for clear air. It does the job with filtration when its on, but I tended not to use it as much as I should have because of the overall experience.

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Lucky,

I read your review/challenges when I first started on the FOG.? You were super detailed and had amazing insights.

It is what makes me want to know more about the differences in this new machine before I would want to repeat your journey.

Maybe they learned from you!

PK

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> I hope this is helpful, or at least interesting.

No news in anything he said, but regarding this:

> The Code does permit upsizing circuit breakers on dedicated motor circuits by as much as?
> 250% if needed to avoid nuisance tripping. That provision is in the section on motors.
> Apparently I would be within Code to change my 20-amp breakers to 30-amp breakers
> without changing anything else.?

No, because a table saw is not a "dedicated motor circuit".? ? In the real world, an inspector
may allow the argument that a "dedicated single-motor machine" is functionally equivalent,
but more often not you won't find this to the case.

Did anyone happen to see the news about a new, small widebelt sander from Felder?






From Eric in the Saw Mill Creek:

We got the ballpark price in the sales meeting this morning. Won't share on the open forum but I can state that it is both attractive and competitive. This machine is still a true widebelt, not a drum sander, so keep that in mind when you are calling your Felder rep but based on how popular the Sandya Win was, I definitely see a market for folks who either can't swing a 37" WB or just don't need a machine that runs a full shift a day. Also, I was surprised to learn that it apparently has a combination head with an electro-pneumatic platen, which is a feature you don't even get on some of the $30K+ industrial widebelts. Still waiting on actual tech data from Austria.

Erik

I know others have not had the best results with the FW 950, but this may work amazingly well for us hobbyists/one person shops.

I called Carl at Felder, hope to hear some more info soon.

What do ya think?

PK
PKwoodworking

The Felder tech had no issue with the electrical supply, and suggested I not change anything unless I experienced a problem with the breaker tripping.

I had a good visit with my electrician today. I will share the things I learned today, as there has been some interest in this subject.

My electrician, who works on commercial and industrial projects, confirmed that my 20-amp circuit meets Code requirements for a single motor with an FLA of 19 amps. The 80% rule is only for continuous loads, like lighting, heat, or motors that run for extended periods. My saw runs intermittently, and rarely sees the full load. Even under full load I should not experience tripping.

When I get my jointer, though, the machine will be on a circuit with a dust collector (FLA = 13 amps) and a thickness planer (FLA = 15 amps). Depending on which motors are running and under what loads, there could be an issue with tripping under an in-rush condition.

J.P. (this electrician) pointed out that it takes time for the breaker to trip. The higher the over-current condition, the shorter that time is. Also if the breaker has warmed up, such as from time near the maximum or repeated in-rush from starting motors, the time to trip can get shorter. That can result in nuisance tripping when working hard, but not when working with light loads.

Romex is made with materials good for 90 C, but is normally used as if it was rated for 60 C. Electricians apparently default to the 60 C rating for wires in circuits under 100 amps, but Romex can be used for a higher ampacity if necessary and if the inspector approves it.

J.P. pointed out that the connectors in common circuit breakers are rated for 75 C. All components of the circuit are limited to that temperature, so even if the wire itself was rated at 90 C the circuit design has to be based on the ampacity of a 75 C wire.

The Code does permit upsizing circuit breakers on dedicated motor circuits by as much as 250% if needed to avoid nuisance tripping. That provision is in the section on motors. Apparently I would be within Code to change my 20-amp breakers to 30-amp breakers without changing anything else. That kind of raises my eyebrows, even though I think I understand the rationale.

J.P. will give me a price for a new circuit for my two new 3KW Felder tools. The new circuit will be either 30 amp or 40 amp, to future-proof the circuit. I’ll probably wind up with conduit down the side of my house, but that is what paint is for ?!

I hope this is helpful, or at least interesting.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S, and expecting an A941 in April 2022