Re: Clamps and accessories
Thank You James,
Just curious, do you happen to know what the thread size Kreg uses on that underside clamp screw they provide?
Wade
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 7:32 AM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? typo, 1/4" - 20 thread.
James Wade,
Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread.?
No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop.
James Hey James,
Thank you for sending this.? So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6” version clamp without having to modify it?? What thread sizes did you use?? Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Wide belt grit selection
Lloyd, My resaw setup must be better than yours as 120 is takes out saw marks in a pass or two??We can even glue directly off the bandsaw.
I was having bad chatter marks off the sander for a while, it was the belts. Don't use the 3M 340D belts. They are inexpensive and last a while, but they have a straight seam. You want all your belts to have that sine wave zig zag type seam as it greatly improves the finish quality. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
?
Wade,
?
What Bill posted is a special nut that is designed to be secured at couple of locations (designed for that nut) in the slider slot to mount the short xcut fence. One does not need that for jigs but it will work as such if one was on hand.
?
I think it is too short if you are thinking of using it with plinth block. Maybe it is not as bad with manual clamps but the clamp will try to lift up in front in use so ideally, you want the Tnut securing the plinth block to the slider in front. This however is not convenient as you want the clamp to be close to the xcut fence. Fence is tall so operating a lever becomes hard. So long story short, use a long Tnut and try yo secure it as forward as possible.
On Feb 17, 2022, at 9:21 AM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
?
Bill,
?
With your set up, can you lock the Kreg clamp to the slider bed, prior to clapping down your material. ?I was wondering if they make a Kipp lever that would match the threads that are machined in the Felder t-nuts. ?When you buy the t-nuts from Felder, do they include the two allen head set screws?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?
On Feb 17, 2022, at 5:45 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:
Hi, I have the Kreg automaxx with the Felder T-Nut and a square piece of hardwood as in David's schema. The issue James described is correct. When you apply pressure the wood is pulled toward the clamp handle/body. I always use the clamp behind the outrigger fence first. Doing so, the wood is correctly pulled toward the outrigger fence. When using parallel fences, I setup the clamps handle at a 45 degree to get the wood pulled mostly toward the parallel fences.  Bill
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
typo, 1/4" - 20 thread.
James
Wade,
Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread.?
No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop.
James Hey James,
Thank you for sending this.? So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6” version clamp without having to modify it?? What thread sizes did you use?? Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Wade,
Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread.?
No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop.
James
Hey James,
Thank you for sending this.? So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6” version clamp without having to modify it?? What thread sizes did you use?? Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Bill,
With your set up, can you lock the Kreg clamp to the slider bed, prior to clapping down your material. ?I was wondering if they make a Kipp lever that would match the threads that are machined in the Felder t-nuts. ?When you buy the t-nuts from Felder, do they include the two allen head set screws?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 17, 2022, at 5:45 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:
?Hi, I have the Kreg automaxx with the Felder T-Nut and a square piece of hardwood as in David's schema. The issue James described is correct. When you apply pressure the wood is pulled toward the clamp handle/body. I always use the clamp behind the outrigger fence first. Doing so, the wood is correctly pulled toward the outrigger fence. When using parallel fences, I setup the clamps handle at a 45 degree to get the wood pulled mostly toward the parallel fences. Bill
|
Re: Wide belt grit selection
Another question, does it make sense to go to a Zirconium belt for the 80 and 100??
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 7:47 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Thanks LIoyd for the info, so the belts you have are all cloth backed?
The sander comes with a few used 100 a 60 and 1 new 120.?
Are you able to sand commercial veneers that are glued to ply or MDF on your machine, i am assuming that can’t be done but you mentioned ply below. I am aware that if it is to be tried/done that you want to first calibrate the substrate first with the contact head only.?
You certainly know more than me about this but have you seen this on wide belt chatter?? On Feb 16, 2022, at 11:54 PM, sl <lloydn@...> wrote:
? I have the same sander.? 120 is too fine to remove resaw blade marks- it'll take too many passes and prematurely wear out the belt. I use 80 for rough sizing and removing saw marks and tear out but 100 will work if you don't want to buy so many grits.? Platen is almost always up, out of the way. Even with 180 and the platen down,? the seam in the belt leaves a regular mark, a sort of soft 'chatter ' that I sand out with a belt sander (180 for most, 150 for oaks)? that has the sheet metal plate replaced with a cork pad+ graphite canvas.? This requires practice but is way faster and flatter than an orbital sander.
This chatter mark is most visible on horizontal surfaces with darker coloration and some sheen.
Start with 100, 120 and 150 and see how it goes.?
Integrated digital readout and positioning controller speeds things up.? The dealer installed an Accurate system.
Feeding parts at a slight angle helps to spread the wear on the belt out.? I only use the fast feed speed on soft woods or lightweight plywood/ mdf.
Mine is 22 years old and I've only had to replace one switch and trouble shoot a safety interlock switch that I knocked out of position.? The SCM folks were very helpful walking me thru the troubleshooting and I have only basic facility with a multimeter.?
Regards Lloyd Natof
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Hey James,
Thank you for sending this. ?So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6” version clamp without having to modify it? ?What thread sizes did you use? ?Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 17, 2022, at 6:45 AM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Sliding Table Installation
John,
The overhead guard is heavy and awkward as hell. I did it myself with blocking but you must be very careful not to knock it over and not get in a hurry. Two people with some blocking should be able to handle it with no problem.
Steve
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
John,
The ripping shoe came with my saw. I didn’t order it. I do have a set of mac’s clamps on order and can’t wait to get them on the saw!
Steve
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
I tried that automax once before I made my air clamps, went back in the drawer it came out of…
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Show quoted text
On Feb 17, 2022, at 7:47 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:
?Here is the Felder T Nut I have:
Bill
|
Re: Wide belt grit selection
Thanks LIoyd for the info, so the belts you have are all cloth backed?
The sander comes with a few used 100 a 60 and 1 new 120.?
Are you able to sand commercial veneers that are glued to ply or MDF on your machine, i am assuming that can’t be done but you mentioned ply below. I am aware that if it is to be tried/done that you want to first calibrate the substrate first with the contact head only.?
You certainly know more than me about this but have you seen this on wide belt chatter??
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2022, at 11:54 PM, sl <lloydn@...> wrote:
? I have the same sander.? 120 is too fine to remove resaw blade marks- it'll take too many passes and prematurely wear out the belt. I use 80 for rough sizing and removing saw marks and tear out but 100 will work if you don't want to buy so many grits.? Platen is almost always up, out of the way. Even with 180 and the platen down,? the seam in the belt leaves a regular mark, a sort of soft 'chatter ' that I sand out with a belt sander (180 for most, 150 for oaks)? that has the sheet metal plate replaced with a cork pad+ graphite canvas.? This requires practice but is way faster and flatter than an orbital sander.
This chatter mark is most visible on horizontal surfaces with darker coloration and some sheen.
Start with 100, 120 and 150 and see how it goes.?
Integrated digital readout and positioning controller speeds things up.? The dealer installed an Accurate system.
Feeding parts at a slight angle helps to spread the wear on the belt out.? I only use the fast feed speed on soft woods or lightweight plywood/ mdf.
Mine is 22 years old and I've only had to replace one switch and trouble shoot a safety interlock switch that I knocked out of position.? The SCM folks were very helpful walking me thru the troubleshooting and I have only basic facility with a multimeter.?
Regards Lloyd Natof
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Here is the Felder T Nut I have:
Bill
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Hi, I have the Kreg automaxx with the Felder T-Nut and a square piece of hardwood as in David's schema. The issue James described is correct. When you apply pressure the wood is pulled toward the clamp handle/body. I always use the clamp behind the outrigger fence first. Doing so, the wood is correctly pulled toward the outrigger fence. When using parallel fences, I setup the clamps handle at a 45 degree to get the wood pulled mostly toward the parallel fences. Bill
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2022, at 8:26 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
I have the same sander.? 120 is too fine to remove resaw blade marks- it'll take too many passes and prematurely wear out the belt. I use 80 for rough sizing and removing saw marks and tear out but 100 will work if you don't want to buy so many grits.? Platen is almost always up, out of the way. Even with 180 and the platen down,? the seam in the belt leaves a regular mark, a sort of soft 'chatter ' that I sand out with a belt sander (180 for most, 150 for oaks)? that has the sheet metal plate replaced with a cork pad+ graphite canvas.? This requires practice but is way faster and flatter than an orbital sander.
This chatter mark is most visible on horizontal surfaces with darker coloration and some sheen.
Start with 100, 120 and 150 and see how it goes.?
Integrated digital readout and positioning controller speeds things up.? The dealer installed an Accurate system.
Feeding parts at a slight angle helps to spread the wear on the belt out.? I only use the fast feed speed on soft woods or lightweight plywood/ mdf.
Mine is 22 years old and I've only had to replace one switch and trouble shoot a safety interlock switch that I knocked out of position.? The SCM folks were very helpful walking me thru the troubleshooting and I have only basic facility with a multimeter.?
Regards Lloyd Natof
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The wheel is ahead of the blade. The steam or whatever it is, came out of few boards but only at the beginning of the cut.
Dull blade yes but I have not experienced heat with a blade that cuts well unless it is being over fed which tends to slow down my saw because it is not a big saw.
Imran
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On Feb 16, 2022, at 11:32 PM, Branden Helgason via groups.io <brandenhelgason@...> wrote: ? My initial thought is your clamp wheel appears to behind the blade? Causing the gap to close after the blade, thus squeezing the blade and creating heat. ? Hard to tell from the camera position.?
The blade is so thin and long it will dissipate heat quickly. ?Length will allow convective cooling.?
As others have said steam could be a possibility, run over and smell it! On Feb 16, 2022, at 7:53 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Imran,
My first reaction was that?it was steam, check the moisture content of the wood.
Btw, I have that Aigner resaw pressure module, I have the one-wheel and two-wheel accessory. I use a two-wheel accessory when resawing, it works great. The only shortcoming is it is not spring loaded.
James
Thanks Joe and Jarred. I should have added there were no knots and I am using carbide resaw king. No burn marks on the wood either. No problem resawing, you can tell from my feed rate; so not a dull blade.?I was wondering if it was steam.?
Imran On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:11 PM, Joe Jensen < joe@...> wrote: ?Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.? ? I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case. Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
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James,
Steam makes sense as there was no burning and like Jarred I did not smell anything. I will check MC again but it was 15-16% in summer which is typical for our climate for thoroughly air dried wood. This wood however is 60 yrs old, so it is as dry as it will ever be ?
Aigner makes so many things but did not know they make a press module that is not spring loaded. Maybe you are using the same wheel assembly as I do. I have 1, 2 & 4 plus the 2by2 wheels for resawing.
Imran?
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Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:53 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote: ? Imran,
My first reaction was that?it was steam, check the moisture content of the wood.
Btw, I have that Aigner resaw pressure module, I have the one-wheel and two-wheel accessory. I use a two-wheel accessory when resawing, it works great. The only shortcoming is it is not spring loaded.
James
Thanks Joe and Jarred. I should have added there were no knots and I am using carbide resaw king. No burn marks on the wood either. No problem resawing, you can tell from my feed rate; so not a dull blade.?I was wondering if it was steam.?
Imran On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:11 PM, Joe Jensen < joe@...> wrote: ?Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.? ? I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case. Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
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My initial thought is your clamp wheel appears to behind the blade? Causing the gap to close after the blade, thus squeezing the blade and creating heat. ? Hard to tell from the camera position.?
The blade is so thin and long it will dissipate heat quickly. ?Length will allow convective cooling.?
As others have said steam could be a possibility, run over and smell it!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2022, at 7:53 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Imran,
My first reaction was that?it was steam, check the moisture content of the wood.
Btw, I have that Aigner resaw pressure module, I have the one-wheel and two-wheel accessory. I use a two-wheel accessory when resawing, it works great. The only shortcoming is it is not spring loaded.
James
Thanks Joe and Jarred. I should have added there were no knots and I am using carbide resaw king. No burn marks on the wood either. No problem resawing, you can tell from my feed rate; so not a dull blade.?I was wondering if it was steam.?
Imran On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:11 PM, Joe Jensen < joe@...> wrote: ?Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.? ? I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case. Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
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Jason Holtz
imran