Re: My New k740 saw is not working
I had this issue on my K3, I was over engaging the switch for the blade cover, kind of slamming it closed.? Now I know to just pop it into the detent.?
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Re: Comatic DC-40 questions
Joe, ? Any reason you put the smart stand on the KF versus the stand alone shaper? ???? ? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Joe Jensen Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2022 1:38 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Comatic DC-40 questions ? I have a DC40 and start stand on a KF700SP.? No problem with a stronger strut? ? ???Thanks for the reply Johannes - good feedback. ?Reading your reply, I remain skeptical that the Smart Stand is a good choice for a KF700. ?Swinging that heavy mass, having to make adjustments, potential conflicts with the outrigger telescoping support arm, and the mounting plate hacks leave me uncomfortable recommending that stand for a KF700. ?Thanks again for the feedback. ?
? Hi Imran,
I use the Felder bracket with gas strut (430-017).? The top surface is a little bit to small so I used a 3/8 steel plate as an adapter plate to bolt the bottom of the smart stand to.? The setup is heavy and requires attention to operate.? The placement of the bracket is not ideal either since it prevents the use of the extension table (the gap between the bracket and the slider front is not wide enough).? And when the feeder is tilted away you need to carefully place it so it does not interfere with the table support arm. However, I am mostly operating just with the crosscut fence so that is not a big concern for me.??
Your question regarding the memory function is a non-issue in my opinion.? It is a spring loaded pin which operates regardless of position.? I use it to temporarily swing the feeder out of position to check setup or gain easier access to shaper fence or cutter.? When I am done i swing it back and lock it.? It operates so freely that you would notice immediately that it is not locked when trying to tilt it.?
I would take a video to demonstrate but I have a shelf on the wall that interferes with the long horizontal tube of the feeder. I have to adjust the feeder arm halfway through the tilt which makes it a big awkward and woudl probably not give a good impression on how well an unconstrained setup would work. Not sure what my solution is going to be.? I haven't used the feeder over the saw yet in the last couple of years so I may just shorten the tube a few inches.?
?
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Why would they? Round columns allow you to pivot the head or the table to the side. Many a time I’ve drilled hole in the end of a long part by hanging it off the edge of the table.
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Why don't drill presses come with square columns? Dave Davies There is a very long old thread on the Radial Drill press.? I ended up with 2 and sold one to Michael Samarza.? We both had work done on the machines by James Hurley.
Michael is out of town and gave me permission to post pictures of his machine.? We are both very happy.? I like this way better than a drill mill for woodworking.? The powerlifting modification is great.? Michael's does not have the VFD.? My drill press will get a motor upgrade to 1 HP with VFD. ?
I think these are the ideal drill presses for woodworking, but just my own opinion.
Next on the agenda is the right accessory table and fence with stops and clamping (perhaps Kreg and/or Mac pneumatic or another alternative), dust collection, and under table storage.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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I have nothing to say about saw stop.
But? sliders,? no matter the size, have some really nice safety
options.? The ability to make jugs and fixtures that? can be
affixed to the slider into which difficult to hold or finicky
pieces? has been? one of my most liked features. I'm a big fan of
fixturing.? Clamp the work in the fixture and take the cut. Your
hands are never anywhere near the cut.? With little kids this may
be a consideration.
On 2/10/22 1:56 PM, Shawn Kammerer via
groups.io wrote:
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Hi all,
Like an?amoeba reproducing through cell division, I
am in the process of diverging my one shop into two, one for
professional work (door, window, and cabinet construction),
and one at home for hobby (musical instruments and
furniture). The home shop won't have enough room to
comfortably fit a full slider, so the KF700 goes to the
production shop. But I love crosscutting on the table saw.
Also, my kids (9yo and 11yo) are my little apprentices and
love to work with me in the shop. So I'm leaning toward
buying a Sawstop and the sliding table attachment. I know
it's not the same as a Euro slider by any means, but I won't
be doing sheet goods, at least not large pieces. It's mostly
the crosscutting of small pieces of solid wood that I want
to do. Do any of you have experience with this? I know you
can bolt it onto the extension wing for larger capacity, but
I'm so used to the slider being almost right up against the
blade, removing the friction from sliding your parts across
the cast iron, so I'd lean toward removing the extension
wing and mounting the slider closer to the blade. Any
thoughts out there, or am I on the wrong track here?
Thanks,
Shawn
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Why don't drill presses come with square columns? Dave Davies
There is a very long old thread on the Radial Drill press.? I ended up with 2 and sold one to Michael Samarza.? We both had work done on the machines by James Hurley.
Michael is out of town and gave me permission to post pictures of his machine.? We are both very happy.? I like this way better than a drill mill for woodworking.? The powerlifting modification is great.? Michael's does not have the VFD.? My drill press will get a motor upgrade to 1 HP with VFD. ?
I think these are the ideal drill presses for woodworking, but just my own opinion.
Next on the agenda is the right accessory table and fence with stops and clamping (perhaps Kreg and/or Mac pneumatic or another alternative), dust collection, and under table storage.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Shawn
I had my sawstop with slider for several years. As most owners will attest the sawstop saw is a great saw with its given safety features. But the slider is just an over grown miter gauge, and not a very good one at that. ?As someone else alluded to the slider has no really good way to zero it out for a 90 degree cut. The latest versions of that slider has a zero setting but it’s very sloppy so it might as well not exist.?
After getting used to a real slider I would suggest, as have some others, buying a smaller slide Felder/Hammer.? Steve?
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On Feb 10, 2022, at 3:10 PM, lyounger@... wrote:
?I used to have a Jessem? MAST-R-SLIDE Sliding Table Saw Attachment on my general table saw. It was awesome.? Unfortunately?they don't?make it anymore, but you may be able to find one used.? I sold that saw when I upgraded to the Hammer.
https://www.amazon.com/JessEm-07500-MAST-R-SLIDE-Sliding-Attachment/dp/B000G1KNXC
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There is a very long old thread on the Radial Drill press. ?I ended up with 2 and sold one to Michael Samarza. ?We both had work done on the machines by James Hurley.
Michael is out of town and gave me permission to post pictures of his machine. ?We are both very happy. ?I like this way better than a drill mill for woodworking. ?The powerlifting modification is great. ?Michael's does not have the VFD. ?My drill press will get a motor upgrade to 1 HP with VFD. ?
I think these are the ideal drill presses for woodworking, but just my own opinion.
Next on the agenda is the right accessory table and fence with stops and clamping (perhaps Kreg and/or Mac pneumatic or another alternative), dust collection, and under table storage.
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Good chance a new chuck would fix that. Best keyless is Albrecht, next is Jacobs, and a great alternative that’s lower priced is Rohm.
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Runout is 0.005”, both at a point 3/4” below the chuck and also at a point 4” below the chuck. Running the quill up and down 4” results in 0.001” difference top to bottom.
What is a respectable value for run-out? Should I be looking for a new chuck and taper?
The current chuck is labeled Sandu, with a b16 taper.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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Re: FB 640 bandsaw not starting
I love fuses! Tech support called and drew my attention to the fact that there are three fuses that monitor the power going into the motor control (looks like a solenoid to me), and the previous owner put the wrong replacement fuses in there, fast burn instead of time delay, so they pop too easily. Voltage isn't the problem, just a $4 fuse from Grainger, and I'm back to resawing. -Shawn
On Thursday, February 10, 2022, 10:39:27 AM PST, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
Thanks guys, appreciated. After measuring voltage and mapping out the flow, it looks like the issue lies in the solenoid. It's fed by two of the three legs, but no voltage is coming out of the solenoid to the red wires that feed the stop switch and safety sensors. I'm worried that I inadvertently fried it, since one of the two legs that feed into the solenoid is the hot leg, 210v, manufactured by my rotary phase converter. I'm always careful about that leg when hooking up machines with power drive, digi drive, or any computer controls, but since this is just a bandsaw (or so I thought), I don't think I spent as much time choosing that connection. I have a request and ticket number for Felder tech support, hopefully they can get me sorted out without too much trouble or expense. Thanks again. -Shawn
On Wednesday, February 9, 2022, 01:15:33 PM PST, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
Shawn,
Take a look at the contactor. ?My guess is it has a low voltage trigger that is activated when the brake or stop button is pressed. ?The low voltage trigger cuts power to the contactor coil. ?If all of the safety switches are in the run position, you should have full voltage to the low voltage trigger. ?Activating one of those switches will drop voltage on the trigger, causing it to activate and cut power to the contactor coil.
I just had to deal with this on my Agazzani Model 600.
Good luck,
On Feb 9, 2022, at 12:02 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Thanks guys, appreciated. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be either sensor. I measured resistance with them opened then closed, and both switches are doing their job (no resistance when closed, no current when opened).? I wasn’t able to measure any voltage on any of the wires. No good grounding point nearby for me to get a good read, but I put the black lead into some screw holes in the frame thinking that should give me some ground. All wires measured 0.0 volts. I’ll follow this downstream this evening and see what I can find. Thanks again, Shawn On Wednesday, February 9, 2022, 11:36 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote: It's always the foot brake switch here. Stomp on the brake, then lift up on the pedal. Works everytime here. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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I used to have a Jessem? MAST-R-SLIDE Sliding Table Saw Attachment on my general table saw. It was awesome.? Unfortunately?they don't?make it anymore, but you may be able to find one used.? I sold that saw when I upgraded to the Hammer.
https://www.amazon.com/JessEm-07500-MAST-R-SLIDE-Sliding-Attachment/dp/B000G1KNXC
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I'm also a hobbyist.? Although I have become a very serious one over the last 8 years, prior to 2014, I had never switched on a table saw and when I took my first class, thought a jointer was something that magically made joints.? I'm a retired ER doctor--and bought into SawStop's safety technology with a vengeance.? The "premium" price was less than the cost of walking into an ER and giving one's name after an injury before receiving any treatment.
Three years ago, I started doing period reproduction classes locally with Chuck Bender whose shop is mostly Felder equipment.? There I experienced his slider.? If I had it to do over again, I'd have purchased the K3Winner.? I'm happy with the SS, and have found ways to do most everything I can do with the slider, but it is definitely less convenient.? Anecdotally, I am told that most "serious table saw" injuries are not from blade contact but rather from kickback.? Having researched the medical side of things, 88% of table saw injuries are associated with blade contact and the anecdotes are not true.? IMO, especially if one is dealing with 9 and 11 year old "apprentices", I wouldn't consider anything other than a SawStop.? Jeff
On Thu, Feb 10, 2022 at 3:27 PM Victor Jarrett via <vwjarrett= [email protected]> wrote: I’m a hobbyist. Last year I debated whether to get a SawStop or a Hammer slider. It was a tough decision but I went with the SawStop ICS, mostly because of price and because I was comfortable with using a cabinet saw. I’m happy with the saw but from time to time I look at the slider attachment for it. Every time I do, I realize that if I bought it, I’d have an inferior slider at close to what I would’ve paid for the Hammer. If I had it to do again, I’d go with the Hammer.?
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The new saw should leave Delaware “early to mid next week” according to Felder Logistics, and take about 5 days to get across the country.
Seems close now - I am getting excited!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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I’m a hobbyist. Last year I debated whether to get a SawStop or a Hammer slider. It was a tough decision but I went with the SawStop ICS, mostly because of price and because I was comfortable with using a cabinet saw. I’m happy with the saw but from time to time I look at the slider attachment for it. Every time I do, I realize that if I bought it, I’d have an inferior slider at close to what I would’ve paid for the Hammer. If I had it to do again, I’d go with the Hammer.?
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Runout is 0.005”, both at a point 3/4” below the chuck and also at a point 4” below the chuck. Running the quill up and down 4” results in 0.001” difference top to bottom.
What is a respectable value for run-out? Should I be looking for a new chuck and taper?
The current chuck is labeled Sandu, with a b16 taper.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Comatic DC-40 questions
I have a DC40 and start stand on a KF700SP.?
No problem with a stronger strut?
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On Feb 10, 2022, at 10:50 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Thanks for the reply Johannes - good feedback. ?Reading your reply, I remain skeptical that the Smart Stand is a good choice for a KF700. ?Swinging that heavy mass, having to make adjustments, potential conflicts with the outrigger telescoping support arm, and the mounting plate hacks leave me uncomfortable recommending that stand for a KF700. ?Thanks again for the feedback.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Hi Imran,
I use the Felder bracket with gas strut (430-017).? The top surface is a little bit to small so I used a 3/8 steel plate as an adapter plate to bolt the bottom of the smart stand to.? The setup is heavy and requires attention to operate.? The placement of the bracket is not ideal either since it prevents the use of the extension table (the gap between the bracket and the slider front is not wide enough).? And when the feeder is tilted away you need to carefully place it so it does not interfere with the table support arm. However, I am mostly operating just with the crosscut fence so that is not a big concern for me.??
Your question regarding the memory function is a non-issue in my opinion.? It is a spring loaded pin which operates regardless of position.? I use it to temporarily swing the feeder out of position to check setup or gain easier access to shaper fence or cutter.? When I am done i swing it back and lock it.? It operates so freely that you would notice immediately that it is not locked when trying to tilt it.?
I would take a video to demonstrate but I have a shelf on the wall that interferes with the long horizontal tube of the feeder. I have to adjust the feeder arm halfway through the tilt which makes it a big awkward and woudl probably not give a good impression on how well an unconstrained setup would work. Not sure what my solution is going to be.? I haven't used the feeder over the saw yet in the last couple of years so I may just shorten the tube a few inches.?
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Why aren’t you considering a K700 with a shorter slider? ?
David Best
Best Services
415-652-1366
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Hi all,
Like an?amoeba reproducing through cell division, I am in the process of diverging my one shop into two, one for professional work (door, window, and cabinet construction), and one at home for hobby (musical instruments and furniture). The home shop won't have enough room to comfortably fit a full slider, so the KF700 goes to the production shop. But I love crosscutting on the table saw. Also, my kids (9yo and 11yo) are my little apprentices and love to work with me in the shop. So I'm leaning toward buying a Sawstop and the sliding table attachment. I know it's not the same as a Euro slider by any means, but I won't be doing sheet goods, at least not large pieces. It's mostly the crosscutting of small pieces of solid wood that I want to do. Do any of you have experience with this? I know you can bolt it onto the extension wing for larger capacity, but I'm so used to the slider being almost right up against the blade, removing the friction from sliding your parts across the cast iron, so I'd lean toward removing the extension wing and mounting the slider closer to the blade. Any thoughts out there, or am I on the wrong track here? Thanks, Shawn
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I went from a 52” regular SawStop to a CF531. Pretty much same footprint and the J/P fits in the same space.?
The slider on the SS is too small and too far from the blade to be much use.?
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On Feb 10, 2022, at 1:16 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
When I looked at the sliding attachment on the SS I was disappointed.? It was an afterthought and not in the same league as a true slider.? The crosscut fence in particular had no great way to zero.? I'm a fan of crosscutting on a table saw and have five short
stroke sliders, none will crosscut more than 39".? I'd look at the shortest offerings of Hammer, Minimax, SCM SI 12,? etc.? Even an old Hammond Trim Saw is a sweet machine if you don't need to rip on it.? If you want a Wadkin PK, I have one I don't use.? Dave
You’ve peaked my curiosity there Steve. I had a Sawstop years ago before my first KF700, and obviously it’s a totally different animal, but I’ve never used their slider attachment. I’d love to hear your thoughts this evening.?
On Thursday, February 10, 2022, 11:00 AM, Steve Lyde via groups.io <stlyde@...> wrote:
Shawn
Last year I replace my sawstop with slider with my current K700S. I can elaborate much more in this topic later this evening.?
Steve?
On Feb 10, 2022, at 12:57 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Hi all,
Like an?amoeba reproducing through cell division, I am in the process of diverging my one shop into two, one for professional work (door, window, and cabinet construction), and one at home for hobby (musical instruments
and furniture). The home shop won't have enough room to comfortably fit a full slider, so the KF700 goes to the production shop. But I love crosscutting on the table saw. Also, my kids (9yo and 11yo) are my little apprentices and love to work with me in the
shop. So I'm leaning toward buying a Sawstop and the sliding table attachment. I know it's not the same as a Euro slider by any means, but I won't be doing sheet goods, at least not large pieces. It's mostly the crosscutting of small pieces of solid wood that
I want to do. Do any of you have experience with this? I know you can bolt it onto the extension wing for larger capacity, but I'm so used to the slider being almost right up against the blade, removing the friction from sliding your parts across the cast
iron, so I'd lean toward removing the extension wing and mounting the slider closer to the blade. Any thoughts out there, or am I on the wrong track here?
Thanks,
Shawn
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When I looked at the sliding attachment on the SS I was disappointed.? It was an afterthought and not in the same league as a true slider.? The crosscut fence in particular had no great way to zero.? I'm a fan of crosscutting on a table saw and have five short
stroke sliders, none will crosscut more than 39".? I'd look at the shortest offerings of Hammer, Minimax, SCM SI 12,? etc.? Even an old Hammond Trim Saw is a sweet machine if you don't need to rip on it.? If you want a Wadkin PK, I have one I don't use.? Dave
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You’ve peaked my curiosity there Steve. I had a Sawstop years ago before my first KF700, and obviously it’s a totally different animal, but I’ve never used their slider attachment. I’d love to hear your thoughts this evening.?
On Thursday, February 10, 2022, 11:00 AM, Steve Lyde via groups.io <stlyde@...> wrote:
Shawn
Last year I replace my sawstop with slider with my current K700S. I can elaborate much more in this topic later this evening.?
Steve?
On Feb 10, 2022, at 12:57 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Hi all,
Like an?amoeba reproducing through cell division, I am in the process of diverging my one shop into two, one for professional work (door, window, and cabinet construction), and one at home for hobby (musical instruments
and furniture). The home shop won't have enough room to comfortably fit a full slider, so the KF700 goes to the production shop. But I love crosscutting on the table saw. Also, my kids (9yo and 11yo) are my little apprentices and love to work with me in the
shop. So I'm leaning toward buying a Sawstop and the sliding table attachment. I know it's not the same as a Euro slider by any means, but I won't be doing sheet goods, at least not large pieces. It's mostly the crosscutting of small pieces of solid wood that
I want to do. Do any of you have experience with this? I know you can bolt it onto the extension wing for larger capacity, but I'm so used to the slider being almost right up against the blade, removing the friction from sliding your parts across the cast
iron, so I'd lean toward removing the extension wing and mounting the slider closer to the blade. Any thoughts out there, or am I on the wrong track here?
Thanks,
Shawn
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What about a short stroke Felder or hammer slider? If you keep with a 700 series you have complete interchangeability of accessories.
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Hi all,
Like an?amoeba reproducing through cell division, I am in the process of diverging my one shop into two, one for professional work (door, window, and cabinet construction), and one at home for hobby (musical instruments and furniture). The home shop won't have enough room to comfortably fit a full slider, so the KF700 goes to the production shop. But I love crosscutting on the table saw. Also, my kids (9yo and 11yo) are my little apprentices and love to work with me in the shop. So I'm leaning toward buying a Sawstop and the sliding table attachment. I know it's not the same as a Euro slider by any means, but I won't be doing sheet goods, at least not large pieces. It's mostly the crosscutting of small pieces of solid wood that I want to do. Do any of you have experience with this? I know you can bolt it onto the extension wing for larger capacity, but I'm so used to the slider being almost right up against the blade, removing the friction from sliding your parts across the cast iron, so I'd lean toward removing the extension wing and mounting the slider closer to the blade. Any thoughts out there, or am I on the wrong track here? Thanks, Shawn
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You’ve peaked my curiosity there Steve. I had a Sawstop years ago before my first KF700, and obviously it’s a totally different animal, but I’ve never used their slider attachment. I’d love to hear your thoughts this evening.?
On Thursday, February 10, 2022, 11:00 AM, Steve Lyde via groups.io <stlyde@...> wrote: Shawn
Last year I replace my sawstop with slider with my current K700S. I can elaborate much more in this topic later this evening.? Steve? On Feb 10, 2022, at 12:57 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
? Hi all,
Like an?amoeba reproducing through cell division, I am in the process of diverging my one shop into two, one for professional work (door, window, and cabinet construction), and one at home for hobby (musical instruments and furniture). The home shop won't have enough room to comfortably fit a full slider, so the KF700 goes to the production shop. But I love crosscutting on the table saw. Also, my kids (9yo and 11yo) are my little apprentices and love to work with me in the shop. So I'm leaning toward buying a Sawstop and the sliding table attachment. I know it's not the same as a Euro slider by any means, but I won't be doing sheet goods, at least not large pieces. It's mostly the crosscutting of small pieces of solid wood that I want to do. Do any of you have experience with this? I know you can bolt it onto the extension wing for larger capacity, but I'm so used to the slider being almost right up against the blade, removing the friction from sliding your parts across the cast iron, so I'd lean toward removing the extension wing and mounting the slider closer to the blade. Any thoughts out there, or am I on the wrong track here? Thanks, Shawn
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Jeff
Joe Jensen
David P. Best