Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Bill,
Your parts on the Etsy page look good, so I wonder if you're interested in making other parts I'd be interested in seeing for my KF700S.
1) Zero-clearance insert for the saw blade.?
2) 4" adapter with 90 degree angle to the right for the overhead guard.
3) Insert for sliding table to hold jigs using 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" bolts?
4) Elbow from 80mm to 4" for the shaper output (not enough room for an adapter plus a 4" elbow)
The blade insert isn't as easy as making them for Delta table saws and I spent an hour making an overhead adapter, similar to what Imran did, but it leaks. If the sliding table insert is more accurate and durable than a piece of oak with a threaded insert, it could be interesting.
Kind regards, Mike
|
File /How tos, modifications, and other notes/Felder 2002 Router Spindle Rebuild.pdf updated
#file-notice
The following files have been updated in
the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: imranindiana <imranindiana@...>
Description:
Added caution to verify router version before using this information. Increased font size for easier reading.
|
Re: Hammer A3-31 Table Flatness
#hammer
This is in fact an issue I seem to have as well, but only more recently. I had to do some minor adjustments about a year after I got the machine, but recently the intervals become shorter and the adjustments less minor.
I readjusted everything on the weekend and other than the snipe issue in the center of the table, the machine works fine - at least for now.
Also, during this adjustment I found a few nuts and bolts loose, that I never touched before and that definitely should not have been loose...
I actually considered upgrading to a minimax fs41es. Unfortunately, it's rather hard to accommodate in my shop. More than 1,8m of jointer tables are really hard to fit in, or at least I have not yet seen how.?Thus my current plan is to move to separates, probably a Robland KS 410 and a minimax s41es. I can place those such that I can do an estimated 80% of my typical work without moving the machines and I have enough room to move them comfortably if necessary.
Best,
Michael
|
Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
? ? ?Hi Wade,? See if the link below works it should even if you are not on Instagram, It is a post on the making of it. Yes, glued up multiple layers of BB. The larger fence has set screws on the sides, top and bottom to retain the block. Even though the smaller (non-DRO) fence doesn¡¯t have the set screws you can just drill and tap, thats what I did on the k700 that I had.
Also here is a post where I put a new edge on the end.
Jesse, I have a 4¡± connector that I designed and printed, I actually noticed a slight improvement. I measured with a pretty sophisticated Anemometer and the numbers increased but it¡¯s pretty subjective depending on where the measurements are taken and the repeatability of the location before and after changing to the 4¡± port.?
My 4¡± goes to a 6¡± drop then 6¡± main, I think my cyclone is 2.5hp. I switched all of my drops to 6¡± and then connect with short 5¡± flex to machine (except the saw over head) and noticed a pretty good improvement from what i had. I also measured the velocity in the trunk before and after and it improved, that was pretty repeatable because the probe goes through a drilled hole in the main at a specific distance?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 25, 2022, at 6:57 AM, wjdsignature@... wrote:
?Hi Bill,
Thank you for getting back to me on the zero clearance insert. ?I have the Format cross cut fence with DRO¡¯s. I¡¯m interested in getting one of these from you, but do I need additional screws to install this? ?There is one Allen headed screw in my fence now, it¡¯s sitting in the top channel groove area, out at the end of the fence. ?Would I use this screw to fasten the zero insert? ?Still learning my way around this machine. ?I haven¡¯t even taken a test cut yet. ?Having a custom Nordfab adapter made so that I can connect to my dust collection.
Thx,
Wade
|
Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Hi Bill,
Thank you for getting back to me on the zero clearance insert. ?I have the Format cross cut fence with DRO¡¯s. I¡¯m interested in getting one of these from you, but do I need additional screws to install this? ?There is one Allen headed screw in my fence now, it¡¯s sitting in the top channel groove area, out at the end of the fence. ?Would I use this screw to fasten the zero insert? ?Still learning my way around this machine. ?I haven¡¯t even taken a test cut yet. ?Having a custom Nordfab adapter made so that I can connect to my dust collection.
Thx,
Wade
|
Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Thanks Mark,
That zero clearance insert looks really nice and clean, no fasteners showing! ?How did you go about connecting this to the end of the fence? ?Is there a block of wood connected to the back side of this that slips into the extrusion? ?What type of plywood? ?I¡¯m assuming you laminated up multiple plywood pieces to start this?
Thx,
Wade
|
Re: Hammer A3-31 Table Flatness
#hammer
This is the situation I have with my hammer a3-31, and why I am upgrading to a minimax fs52es. However, a much bigger issue is that my tables don¡¯t hold settings for more than a few weeks. That was impacting my jointer¡¯s performance a lot more than the out tables. Have you checked that your settings are ok??
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Jan 24, 2022 at 02:53 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for your comment. Indeed I forgot the most important part... my problem is the following:
When jointing narrow stock, say 2~3 inches wide, everything works reasonably well near both edges of the tables, but in the center I get snipe. For lack of a better explanation I attribute this to the recess in the outfeed table, which is 0.25~0.3mm. I have not yet measured if this difference is consistent with the depth of the snipe. I will check this later today...
Best regards,
Michael
|
Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Hi Bill,
I just ordered one for my saw, along with the overhead 4¡± port adapter. I noticed that you have the 120mm to 4¡± adapter. Do you notice any decrease in collection using the 4¡± hose on your saw?
Thanks,
Jesse
|
File /How tos, modifications, and other notes/Felder Router Spindle Rebuild.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
The following files have been uploaded to
the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: imranindiana <imranindiana@...>
|
Re: Cabinet Lift Recommendations
Had a chance this weekend to start adjusting tables, slow going. Will be nice when adjusted, tables are big and dead flat,,,planed! All other systems ? Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 24, 2022, at 4:59 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
Mac, how does the Bauerle JP work now?? Dave
Few other options?
This is a Genie Lift I use at home and around the shop, here I used to set up a crane I built to lift tables on my Okoma HCH 630 to lift the tables know part of the machine . Tables are way to heavy to lift but just a push of a button know.?
The Genie-has a lift of about 8¡¯ and 400#.?
I have another 500# cap. That is single mast and will lift to 20¡¯.
 
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 24, 2022, at 4:05 AM, mikkel@... wrote:
?As an alternative - You can also use a lift table such as Felder Fat300 or Barth - You¡¯ll need to make a box to put between the table top and the cabinet to increse the max lift height of the table. Barth has a fine video showing exactly this?
--
Regards,
Mikkel
|
Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Hi Wade, If you're interested in purchasing a 3D printed one rather than making one of your own, I have them available on my Etsy site. Thanks to Brain Lamb for the designs. I also have dust hose adapters for the metric ports for sale, designed by Jeff Lund and Mike Bemis, whose permissions I have obtained to print and sell.
Hope this helps Bill B¨¦langer
Hello group,
I¡¯m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence.? It¡¯s the heavier duty cross cut fence that you find on the Format saws.
Thank you,
Wade
|
Re: Cabinet Lift Recommendations
Mac, how does the Bauerle JP work now?? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Few other options?
This is a Genie Lift I use at home and around the shop, here I used to set up a crane I built to lift tables on my Okoma HCH 630 to lift the tables know part of the machine . Tables are way to heavy to lift but just a push of a button know.?
The Genie-has a lift of about 8¡¯ and 400#.?
I have another 500# cap. That is single mast and will lift to 20¡¯.
 
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 24, 2022, at 4:05 AM, mikkel@... wrote:
?As an alternative - You can also use a lift table such as Felder Fat300 or Barth - You¡¯ll need to make a box to put between the table top and the cabinet to increse the max lift height of the table. Barth has a fine video showing exactly this?
--
Regards,
Mikkel
|
Re: Cabinet Lift Recommendations
Few other options? This is a Genie Lift I use at home and around the shop, here I used to set up a crane I built to lift tables on my Okoma HCH 630 to lift the tables know part of the machine . Tables are way to heavy to lift but just a push of a button know.? The Genie-has a lift of about 8¡¯ and 400#.? I have another 500# cap. That is single mast and will lift to 20¡¯.
  Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 24, 2022, at 4:05 AM, mikkel@... wrote:
?As an alternative - You can also use a lift table such as Felder Fat300 or Barth - You¡¯ll need to make a box to put between the table top and the cabinet to increse the max lift height of the table. Barth has a fine video showing exactly this?
--
Regards,
Mikkel
|
still available? Mind sharing why you¡¯re selling?
|
Any oe know why they don't use keyways on those hings?
On 1/24/22 12:14 PM, imranindiana
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked
on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it
ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are
shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what
the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the
spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass
colored thing in the pic below.
I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw
online were for a specific task. Not only were they
expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions
of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all
specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12
point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may
only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It
took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding
of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too
bad.
Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from
the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of
pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in
line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up
and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of
the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times
skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy
to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder
with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to
the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins.
The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without
cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I
needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as
shown in pic above (red lines).
Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise
(6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to
remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube
around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws
instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method
my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel
bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was
wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these
steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed
attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held -
just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long
jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held
vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering
with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get
the?spanner nut loose.
Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a
spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip
43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So
I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for
38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My
neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my
might it came loose.
If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle
reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings
with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the
shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing -
presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true
for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router
spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer
6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the
bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased
is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did
this because they are widely available and the shield can be
removed easily with a pick tool.
However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded
bearing, more on this later.
This bearing has a limiting speed
rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM -
this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting
data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the
bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to
determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP
(Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not,
so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to
service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea
as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being
accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this
exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was
something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor
application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason
it came with that specific grease.
Anyhow, old bearings came off
very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while
snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the
spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor
freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.?
?Here
are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield
removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove
the top bearing.?
I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon
scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There
were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came
off easily.
I had several options to install the bearings but I chose
to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside)
overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F
in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down
and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no
drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both
bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd
bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried
placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer
for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching
the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a
little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop
his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the
bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press.
It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the
press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application
called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing
would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below
are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper
spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing -
grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the
spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally,
a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is
about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.
I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top
locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think
still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might
as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a
month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or
update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do
this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be
desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for
advice on this process.
Imran
|
Hi Michael,
Yes, I can do that.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 24, 2022, at 12:52 PM, Michael Garrison Stuber <mtgstuber@...> wrote: ?
Nice write up Imran.? Thank you.
Would you consider printing this to a PDF and posting it to the
files section?
--Michael Garrison Stuber
On 1/24/2022 9:14 AM, imranindiana
wrote:
Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked
on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it
ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are
shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what
the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the
spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass
colored thing in the pic below.
I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw
online were for a specific task. Not only were they
expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions
of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all
specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12
point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may
only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It
took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding
of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too
bad.
Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from
the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of
pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in
line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up
and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of
the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times
skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy
to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder
with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to
the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins.
The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without
cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I
needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as
shown in pic above (red lines).
Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise
(6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to
remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube
around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws
instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method
my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel
bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was
wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these
steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed
attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held -
just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long
jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held
vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering
with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get
the?spanner nut loose.
Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a
spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip
43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So
I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for
38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My
neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my
might it came loose.
If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle
reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings
with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the
shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing -
presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true
for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router
spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer
6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the
bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased
is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did
this because they are widely available and the shield can be
removed easily with a pick tool.
However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded
bearing, more on this later.
This bearing has a limiting speed
rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM -
this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting
data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the
bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to
determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP
(Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not,
so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to
service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea
as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being
accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this
exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was
something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor
application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason
it came with that specific grease.
Anyhow, old bearings came off
very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while
snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the
spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor
freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.?
?Here
are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield
removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove
the top bearing.?
I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon
scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There
were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came
off easily.
I had several options to install the bearings but I chose
to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside)
overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F
in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down
and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no
drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both
bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd
bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried
placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer
for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching
the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a
little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop
his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the
bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press.
It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the
press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application
called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing
would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below
are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper
spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing -
grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the
spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally,
a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is
about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.
I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top
locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think
still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might
as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a
month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or
update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do
this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be
desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for
advice on this process.
Imran
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Nice write up Imran.? Thank you.
Would you consider printing this to a PDF and posting it to the
files section?
--Michael Garrison Stuber
On 1/24/2022 9:14 AM, imranindiana
wrote:
Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked
on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it
ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are
shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what
the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the
spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass
colored thing in the pic below.
I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw
online were for a specific task. Not only were they
expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions
of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all
specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12
point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may
only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It
took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding
of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too
bad.
Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from
the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of
pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in
line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up
and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of
the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times
skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy
to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder
with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to
the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins.
The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without
cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I
needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as
shown in pic above (red lines).
Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise
(6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to
remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube
around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws
instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method
my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel
bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was
wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these
steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed
attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held -
just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long
jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held
vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering
with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get
the?spanner nut loose.
Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a
spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip
43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So
I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for
38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My
neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my
might it came loose.
If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle
reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings
with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the
shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing -
presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true
for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router
spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer
6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the
bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased
is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did
this because they are widely available and the shield can be
removed easily with a pick tool.
However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded
bearing, more on this later.
This bearing has a limiting speed
rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM -
this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting
data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the
bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to
determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP
(Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not,
so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to
service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea
as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being
accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this
exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was
something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor
application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason
it came with that specific grease.
Anyhow, old bearings came off
very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while
snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the
spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor
freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.?
?Here
are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield
removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove
the top bearing.?
I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon
scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There
were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came
off easily.
I had several options to install the bearings but I chose
to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside)
overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F
in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down
and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no
drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both
bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd
bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried
placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer
for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching
the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a
little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop
his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the
bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press.
It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the
press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application
called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing
would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below
are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper
spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing -
grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the
spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally,
a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is
about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.
I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top
locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think
still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might
as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a
month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or
update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do
this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be
desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for
advice on this process.
Imran
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
James, I like your two piece design. Inevitably, the ZCI will need to be replaced (I¡¯ve needed to shim mine several times over the course of about 18 months).
Fred, I am interested how you go with your design. My first started out similar, and I found that it was too high to permit the blade shroud to be low, which meant that the blade remained high (if you want to use the shroud). Do you have a way around this?
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass colored thing in the pic below.
I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw online were for a specific task. Not only were they expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12 point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too bad.
Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins. The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as shown in pic above (red lines).
Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise (6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held - just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get the?spanner nut loose.
Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip 43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for 38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my might it came loose.
If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing - presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer 6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did this because they are widely available and the shield can be removed easily with a pick tool. However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded bearing, more on this later.
This bearing has a limiting speed rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM - this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP (Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not, so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason it came with that specific grease.
Anyhow, old bearings came off very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.? ?Here are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove the top bearing.?
I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came off easily.
I had several options to install the bearings but I chose to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside) overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press. It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing - grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally, a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.
I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for advice on this process.
Imran
|
Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
Looks great to me. Off the shelf parts for the motor and drive and such? What did you use for the pivot post?
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Thanks...it was a proof of concept, and I was planning to "pretty" it up a bit, but it works perfectly so I never got around to modifying it. ?With the air cylinder fully extended, the wheel is 1/16" away from the blade...this way I can cut my 1/8" strips. ?No foot switch...but that is a good idea.
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Mike
Bill Belanger
imran