Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
I just added a feeder to one of my bandsaws. The improvement in cut finish and quality is akin to the improvement one sees when going from hand feeding a shaper to using a power feeder.?
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On Jan 21, 2022, at 2:22 PM, Jacques Gagnon <jacques.gagnon309@...> wrote:
?Brandon,
I will be interested in reading comments from colleagues who have experience with feeders on bandsaws. I have the same machine (S400P) and suspect that the motor (which is the same for the MM20) has sufficient "ooomph" to handle the work. I assume that the frame is not the limiting factor.
While reading this thread last night I asked myself the same question for my own context: Comatic DC40 mounted on the Hammer B3.
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Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
Brandon,
I will be interested in reading comments from colleagues who have experience with feeders on bandsaws. I have the same machine (S400P) and suspect that the motor (which is the same for the MM20) has sufficient "ooomph" to handle the work. I assume that the frame is not the limiting factor.
While reading this thread last night I asked myself the same question for my own context: Comatic DC40 mounted on the Hammer B3.
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Re: Kappa 550 x motion problems
Does your machine have the Felder PCS safety system? ?If so, that could be your problem. ?Might be a sensitivity adjustment. ?I suggest you call Felder service - there aren’t many 550 users who post here. ? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 21, 2022, at 12:41 PM, Jack Decker via groups.io <vernaculardesign@...> wrote:
?My saw is intermittently shutting down the blade at the beginning of a cut. It will run under no load but as soon as engage the blade it shuts down. Any thoughts out there?
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Kappa 550 x motion problems
My saw is intermittently shutting down the blade at the beginning of a cut. It will run under no load but as soon as engage the blade it shuts down. Any thoughts out there?
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Re: Hammer k3 table width extension 503-137
hi Derek, yes, I had viewed your website when I was deciding on how I was going to upgrade from my 1990s vintage delta unisaw.? you are a good reference for those thinking of making the switch?to a slider (which of course is the direction I went).? thanks much for the content!
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Re: k700s options - 3000mm crosscut w/ precision miter index for $600 extra
Dan,
FYI I am going down this exact path with the DRO as you want to.
I have a kappa 400 x-motion that came with the same fence extrusion as the DRO machines with an analog stop on both the extension (as you, I pan to leave this alone as analog) and the main fence.
You would need to beg steal and borrow a bit.? Your machine serial # has the specific parts that are associated with YOUR machine.? You will need to find a nice person at Felder that will allow you to purchase 2 meters of the magnetic strip and cover that you can install on your fence.? When they look up your machine, they will not see those parts on your exploded diagrams and BOM.? I found the part numbers through searching the forums and posted schematics of fully loaded machines.
The model #'s are:
222MB (2 meters)? Mag strip? (I have in my possession)
222MBA (2 meters) Protective cover? (paid and on order now and waiting)
604-118? Digital DRO? (paid and on order now and waiting)
You attach the strip and cover via pre drilled holes in the fence and two rivets.
The DRO stop that is sold on the Felder shop will work (604-118 $1275), but will leave you with a 6" or so gap at the end of the extrusion (at around the 1800mm mark) that you will not be able to use because it is a right side stop.? You can order the other stop (that is the standard DRO stop) from the parts department to solve that if you wish.
I am electing to cover those last 6 inches or so with the analog DRO that came with the fence that registers from the left side.
PK
PKwoodworking
Feel free to message me if you want more info
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Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
My friends make fun of me for having two. I've got a MM16 for resaw (no feeder) and a little Jet 14" for general purposes. Glad to see I'm not the only one that has this problem.
Is the MM16 too small to install a feeder on? I wonder if my F38 that's mounted to the KF700S could serve both machines.
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Hammer A3-31 Table Flatness
#hammer
Hi all, I have an issue with my A3-31 regarding table flatness. This seems to be a repeating topic, but I could not really find a solution. I adjusted the machine following the various tutorials and could get the tables into good alignment. However there remains an issue with table flatness, specifically that both tables are concave near the cutter head, although they are rather straight further outside. Already about 20cm away from the cutter head, the tables are reasonably flat. I filled out David Best‘s table flatness sheet and attached it below. Caution: all values are in mm. It appears as if the rods marked in the first photo are tensioned a tad too tight, thus deforming the tables. I tried to loosen the tension a little bit on the upper nuts, but that didn‘t change anything. I wonder if this issue could also be related to the base.?Its made out of 30mm plywood with eight wheels, one under each corner of the board, and one under each corner of the A3. The wheels are specced for 100 kg each. Best, Michael   
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Re: Hammer k3 table width extension 503-137
That's the first in situ Band saw sharpening rig I've? yet?
seen.? Nice jigs and fixtures
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Re: Best dust extraction solution for Hammer table saw
G700 is underpowered compared to the AR16
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On Jan 21, 2022, at 6:54 AM, Andrew Goyder via groups.io <agoyder@...> wrote:
?Thanks for clarifying that Roger. I agree with your overall approach, and before upgrading to the AF16 and Hammer machines (and bigger workshop) used a 1.5kw single bag HVLP kept outside with 4" through the wall for my planer./thicknesses and a two motor 2kw Camvac with 4" soil pipe ducts for everything else. Good vacuum but ducting was over elaborate and not hugely effective.
The AF16 is too big (and noisy) to go outside,so I have it mounted at head height with pleated filter sticking up into pitch roof and hose and bag hanging down above a bench. The rest of the roof void is used for storing timber, so running ducting at head height must both avoid hampering access to wood and address reaching the extractor intake at a sharp right angle.
Bill's approach is definitely one I am considering, with the addition of some form of Thein style top hat separator between main duct and extractor inlet. However the Harvey G700 is a very different beast to my AF16 and I suspect on my B3 saw with 4" internal flex hose and 2" bladed guard connection, I will be disappointed.
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Re: Best dust extraction solution for Hammer table saw
Thanks for clarifying that Roger. I agree with your overall approach, and before upgrading to the AF16 and Hammer machines (and bigger workshop) used a 1.5kw single bag HVLP kept outside with 4" through the wall for my planer./thicknesses and a two motor 2kw Camvac with 4" soil pipe ducts for everything else. Good vacuum but ducting was over elaborate and not hugely effective.
The AF16 is too big (and noisy) to go outside,so I have it mounted at head height with pleated filter sticking up into pitch roof and hose and bag hanging down above a bench. The rest of the roof void is used for storing timber, so running ducting at head height must both avoid hampering access to wood and address reaching the extractor intake at a sharp right angle.
Bill's approach is definitely one I am considering, with the addition of some form of Thein style top hat separator between main duct and extractor inlet. However the Harvey G700 is a very different beast to my AF16 and I suspect on my B3 saw with 4" internal flex hose and 2" bladed guard connection, I will be disappointed.
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I understand about the moratorium! My brothers span nearly the entire political spectrum, and hold some pretty strong positions. Unfortunately none of them are close enough to help with this saw.
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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John:
Also Congrats on the new saw... mine is about 4 years old, in perfect condition, and used and abused as it should be. This saw was and remains the best money I've spent.
When mine was delivered, I had rented a heavy-lift pallet jack; but later opted to give the delivery driver $100 to use his motorized pallet jack to place the saw (and AD951) in final position. This worked great! Certainly, you need to have made the tough decisions on shop layout and provide easy access for the placement (I marked-off the shop floor with blue tape, for each tool). The AD951, especially, is not going anywhere. This also means the 3PH electric (if applicable) and dust collection are nearby (these can't be an afterthought). Each of us has a different access-to-the-shop situation... mine includes stone columns (12' spacing) at the base of the driveway (meaning the truck remained in the street, and quiet a distance from the shop.?
For installation... two brothers and a neighbor took most of the day to assemble the various parts - I did not get the overhead dust collection option (this would take some additional time to assemble (I have since installed my own approach)). I chose to leave the beer and spirits 'til afterwards, and i declared a moratorium on Politics - yes, I know this sounds sterile, but you'd have to know my family to get it.
Take Care.
Mike D
On Thursday, January 20, 2022, 08:59:18 PM EST, Steve Lyde via groups.io <stlyde@...> wrote:
Congrats on the new saw!! ?I have now had my K700S for one year, still among the very best tools I have ever bought.? Steve Lyde @SL1800 Instagram?
On Jan 20, 2022, at 6:23 PM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?My saw is now in Delaware! Not sure how long it will take to get it across country.
I’m still working on delivery and handling. I have a few things to check yet, but will probably move it myself with a track loader. I just need to make sure the slope is not an issue for traction.
Really looking forward to this rig!?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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Mike D.
Annapolis, MD
AD951; K700S; N4400
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Re: Hammer k3 table width extension 503-137
My K3 Winner has the 48" wagon, and the extension table comes standard with this. It is set up at the start of the wagon. In the photo below, it the original stop mechanism for setting the crosscut fence square ...  After Marius' modification, Felder built their own version .. which I had to pay for even though the K3 was then about 12 months old! Here is the new version ...  Well, it turned out to be a good thing since the old mechanism then became a stop for 45 degrees (set up on the table) ...  This may be fine tuned to get a perfect, and repeatable 45 degrees ...  What else can you do with the table extension? Quite a while back I added a Wixey DRO, which is used together with the micro adjuster on the rip fence ...  I decided to add a micro adjuster to the crosscut depth stop as well. This is just superb when fine tuning crosscuts ...    There are more mods for the K3 here:?? Regards from Perth Derek
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Congrats on the new saw!! ?I have now had my K700S for one year, still among the very best tools I have ever bought.? Steve Lyde @SL1800 Instagram?
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On Jan 20, 2022, at 6:23 PM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?My saw is now in Delaware! Not sure how long it will take to get it across country.
I’m still working on delivery and handling. I have a few things to check yet, but will probably move it myself with a track loader. I just need to make sure the slope is not an issue for traction.
Really looking forward to this rig!?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
More than one way to get it done!
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On Jan 20, 2022, at 2:15 PM, Fred Rossi < fred@...> wrote:
The short design is actually a plus. Just add a sacrificial block and the design works forever. Many thanks Brian.?
On Sat, Jan 8, 2022 at 2:15 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: I spent a few days and printed some test parts to fit into the standard 72mm x 70mm fence extrusion. Did the final iteration today and it’s ready to go. I changed it to use a standard 90? cone point set screw (I machined a couple to 60? point here because that’s what I had on hand, but they aren’t readily available). I designed this with the threads in the model, so it prints the threads into the part, but most likely you will have to chase it with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap to clean up the threads. Mine seems to print the lower portion of the threads just fine, but the first turn or two is tight.
This design allows you to slide the tongue into the extrusion and just snug the set screw which wedges it into place, comes right back out with loosening the set screw. I don’t really want to get into the printing of these, so I’ve uploaded the file into the files section.?
A couple of notes, I set my slicer to do 1.8mm walls and then did 3mm top layer. The extra wall thickness makes it strong enough to use the screw to wedge it tight, and the extra thickness at the top will allow you to trim it to exactly the blade position and (hopefully) not go through into the internal support structure. I just did these in PLA as it prints fine and seems plenty strong. The “tongue” sticks out 1.625, so hopefully that’s pretty close to what most of the machines measure from the blade to the rip fence extrusion. Print it oriented with the face in the first picture down, hardest part is getting the damn support structure off the bottom once it’s done.
Oh, set screw is here:? ?
Backside, hard to see, but it has four splits to allow it to wedge open
<IMG_4935.jpeg>
Slides right into the fence extrusion
<IMG_4937.JPG>
Tighten the set screw and it locks it in place
-- _____________________
Fred Rossi 617.905.6497
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Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
Michael Fortune has a lot of bandsaws. ?As In recall, something like 8 or 10...
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On Jan 20, 2022, at 2:34 PM, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
We have two saws, the Felder 540 which is set up with the Italian belt feeder and then a little baby Rikon with a 1/4" blade for other general work. It's often too small in the throat for all the other work so we end up cutting stuff we shouldn't be on the good resaw blade. So, yes I think the argument for a third bandsaw is sound. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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My saw is now in Delaware! Not sure how long it will take to get it across country.
I’m still working on delivery and handling. I have a few things to check yet, but will probably move it myself with a track loader. I just need to make sure the slope is not an issue for traction.
Really looking forward to this rig!?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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A friend asked me to make an arched doorway using western red cedar. 24” radius.
I had good results with 6x 5mm plies, polyurethane glue. There was about 6mm of springback, but the springback was irrelevant since the entire lamination was constrained by the framing lumber anyway.?
obviously WRC isn’t walnut, but I would try to get thicker plies.
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All:
My experience is similar to Brian’s, targeting final lamination piece thickness of .100. ?Very difficult to get consistent thickness with just the bandsaw, i usually end up with some planer thicknessing but often resort to a sander to target equal thickness. ?The thickness issue is important when the final dimension of the bent lamination is a design parameter. ?Like Brian, ?I have had very little springback,(?using Unibond 800) but have never done a piece 12” wide, although lots of black walnut laminations. ?In my experience you will have more than you want in the burn pile at the end of the day. ?As always, your mileage may vary but definitely trial runs are crucial.
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[Edited Message Follows]
Some good information in this video. You can see how slow you have to go for wide hardwood stock, even with a carbide blade. I cut a lot of maple veneer for a job (10" wide by 3/16" thick) and built a similar pressure roller system but used caster wheels and springs. I was able to attach a cheap power feeder to assist. It was an awkward setup but worked well.? If you're cutting 12" wide, you need the pressure rollers/wheels to be almost 12" high to get even pressure at the top and bottom of the stock. If you're cutting 1/16" thick, that is not much room for error and your kerf will be that much at best, so you are only getting 50% yield. I would consider thicker laminations (as Brian said) and doing a spring back test with some stock of lesser quality. Plastic resin or epoxy glue will give you less spring back and more stability. I'm not sure what your radius is of the project, but I would not try to cut 1/16" veneers in quantity, you will need a perfect setup for that. Certainly Wood might be a good option or there might be someone in your area with special equipment for sawing veneers. If you can get away with using thicker veneers, then it's possible to do it by building your own fence and pressure roller system. Cutting veneer is really fun when everything goes right, but if the setup is not perfect, things start to get off and it's very frustrating.? Tom Ruth
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Joe Jensen
David P. Best
Jack Decker
joe slater
PK