Thanks so much David. Nice stuff! What I was looking for was an STL file that I could print in nylon.
Bill Bélanger
David Best - via mobile phone? On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:12 AM, Bill Bélanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?In looking at the 3D files, I find a DRO version of a fence attachment. I'm trying to redesign it to fit my Kappa 400 fence, but maybe someone else has already done this? The post is on the wrong side for me, it should be on the left with the angle facing me. Is there another file that allows the block to go under the dust hood? Don't need to reinvent the wheel... Thanks Bill Bélanger
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David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:12 AM, Bill Bélanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?In looking at the 3D files, I find a DRO version of a fence attachment. I'm trying to redesign it to fit my Kappa 400 fence, but maybe someone else has already done this? The post is on the wrong side for me, it should be on the left with the angle facing me. Is there another file that allows the block to go under the dust hood? Don't need to reinvent the wheel... Thanks Bill Bélanger
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In looking at the 3D files, I find a DRO version of a fence attachment. I'm trying to redesign it to fit my Kappa 400 fence, but maybe someone else has already done this?
The post is on the wrong side for me, it should be on the left with the angle facing me. Is there another file that allows the block to go under the dust hood?
Don't need to reinvent the wheel...
Thanks
Bill Bélanger
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Re: Digital Rip Fence mod on K500
You don’t have to use the cover strip, but it does protect the soft magnetic layer. I would use it.
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On Dec 30, 2021, at 12:03 PM, Bill James via < xxrb2010@...> wrote:
Stupid question about the magnetic strip,
The product comes with two strips, one thick that is supposed to the magnetic strip and one thin that is supposed to be a cover strip for protection.
I guess I have to install the magnetic strip first and then add the stainless steel cover strip on top of it? I also wonder whether I need the protective strip or for this application this is not needed?
Thanks,
Bill
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Re: Digital Rip Fence mod on K500
Stupid question about the magnetic strip,
The product comes with two strips, one thick that is supposed to the magnetic strip and one thin that is supposed to be a cover strip for protection.
I guess I have to install the magnetic strip first and then add the stainless steel cover strip on top of it? I also wonder whether I need the protective strip or for this application this is not needed?
Thanks,
Bill
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Massive, yes. I feel sorry for the hinges ;-) Cheers Eric
On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 10:52 AM Tim House < casabueno@...> wrote: Nice project!? Those "square cuts" certainly assist on the glue up and joint fit. Please post a photo of the completed door(s).
Tim House On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 9:11 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Well massive for my hobby shop anyways. Two of my long flattest surfaces in the shop (10’ slider and 9.5’ jointer w/ext tables) in use for glueup of first door panel - 148” x 72”.
Just used blocks attached to the OSB under each rails and shims to push the rails into stile. Credit to Felder machinery the final corner to corner measurement is only off by 1/32”.
Now, I will rest easy if the other stile will go in with 6 floating tenons.
Imran
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Thanks Tim. Will share when done. Wife excepts it finished by May. Will see, I have my doubts.
Imran
On Dec 30, 2021, at 12:52 PM, Tim House <casabueno@...> wrote:
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Nice project!? Those "square cuts" certainly assist on the glue up and joint fit. Please post a photo of the completed door(s).
Tim House
On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 9:11 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Well massive for my hobby shop anyways. Two of my long flattest surfaces in the shop (10’ slider and 9.5’ jointer w/ext tables) in use for glueup of first door panel - 148” x 72”.
Just used blocks attached to the OSB under each rails and shims to push the rails into stile. Credit to Felder machinery the final corner to corner measurement is only off by 1/32”.
Now, I will rest easy if the other stile will go in with 6 floating tenons.
Imran
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Joinery detail 
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?Well massive for my hobby shop anyways. Two of my long flattest surfaces in the shop (10’ slider and 9.5’ jointer w/ext tables) in use for glueup of first door panel - 148” x 72”.
Just used blocks attached to the OSB under each rail and used shims to push the rails into the stile. Credit to Felder machinery the final corner to corner measurement is only off by 1/32”.
Now, I will rest easy if the other stile will go in with 6 floating tenons.
Imran
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Thanks David, I’ll revisit the leveling and the toe-out, and I understand that the slider is otherwise about as good as it is going to get.?
Cheers,
Roger
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Re: Replacing drive belt for scoring blade on KF 700
Nevin,
When this happened on my Hammer, the tech instructed me to tilt the blade to 45 degrees to facilitate access, and to lower the scoring unit to the lowest position. It was pretty easy from there.?
He also advised me to take the tension off of the belt by lowering the unit after each use.
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Not sure on the KF but on the k700s that i use to have you have to crawl into the cabinet? ?Good day. I'm a semi-retired physician in Victoria, Tx with a KF 700 I purchased new in 2015. My problem is finding the way to replace the drive belt for my scoring blade. I recently found it in the bottom of the machine split apart. I've seen the single picture in the Felder User Manual that shows how it runs, but no instructions on how to replace with a new belt that I recently ordered form Felder.
It seems the problem is the idler pully below the scoring drive pully that has spring tension to tighten the belt once installed. With so little room to work thru the saw arbor gap, I can't release the spring or pull up enough so the belt will go over all the pullys. I have David's Guide but couldn't find a solution there. I'm sure some of you smart Felder owners have done this & know the solution. Thanks in advance.
Nevin
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Re: Replacing drive belt for scoring blade on KF 700
Not sure on the KF but on the k700s that i use to have you have to crawl into the cabinet?
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On Dec 29, 2021, at 6:45 PM, Nevin Anderson via groups.io <nevinanderson@...> wrote:
?Good day. I'm a semi-retired physician in Victoria, Tx with a KF 700 I purchased new in 2015. My problem is finding the way to replace the drive belt for my scoring blade. I recently found it in the bottom of the machine split apart. I've seen the single picture in the Felder User Manual that shows how it runs, but no instructions on how to replace with a new belt that I recently ordered form Felder.
It seems the problem is the idler pully below the scoring drive pully that has spring tension to tighten the belt once installed. With so little room to work thru the saw arbor gap, I can't release the spring or pull up enough so the belt will go over all the pullys. I have David's Guide but couldn't find a solution there. I'm sure some of you smart Felder owners have done this & know the solution. Thanks in advance.
Nevin
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Replacing drive belt for scoring blade on KF 700
Good day. I'm a semi-retired physician in Victoria, Tx with a KF 700 I purchased new in 2015. My problem is finding the way to replace the drive belt for my scoring blade. I recently found it in the bottom of the machine split apart. I've seen the single picture in the Felder User Manual that shows how it runs, but no instructions on how to replace with a new belt that I recently ordered form Felder.
It seems the problem is the idler pully below the scoring drive pully that has spring tension to tighten the belt once installed. With so little room to work thru the saw arbor gap, I can't release the spring or pull up enough so the belt will go over all the pullys. I have David's Guide but couldn't find a solution there. I'm sure some of you smart Felder owners have done this & know the solution. Thanks in advance.
Nevin
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Wide belt roller conditioning
Hi all,
Any preference to truing up the main roller?
I haven't done it before,? but one option was full width abrasive glued to MDF.? The other is to place a narrower strip on a diagonal.? ?Third option?
Grit suggestions also welcome.?
Marlowe McGraw?
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Hi Roger,
I looked at your video on Instagram. ?Here are my comments/suggestions: - For best results, your machine should be on adjustable leveling feet instead of using shims under the base. The 500-series machines are essentially Hammer bodies with X-Roll sliding table borrowed from the Felder brand. ?So I would expect the chassis to be less rigid than a 700-series machine. ?All the more reason to get the machine onto proper leveling feet. ?On a 700-series machine, the holes in the bottom of the chassis are 11mm diameter and are unthreaded. ?I can’t say what they are on your machine, could be the same, could be different. ?If they are 11mm, then your best choice for leveling feet will be 3/8". ?This series of photos and the description you’ll find with each one details the leveling feet I use and recommend. ?? ?You will need opposing nuts on the level feet threaded stud to secure it to the chassis - top and bottom.
- The cast iron top of your machine is attached to the base with threaded studs. ?It is possible to remove twist in the cast iron top by adjusting the attachment studs/nuts, but get your machine onto solid platform of leveling feet before attempting adjustments. ?Your Starrett 95 level is not ideal here - its resolution sensitivity is is less than 0.005” per foot. ?Brian Lamb makes a more precise level with a longer bast that would be more suitable. ?
- Toe-out for the slider is measured against a blade mounted to the saw arbor - not the gap between the edge of the sliding table and the cast iron top. ?Your method assumes the saw arbor is exactly perpendicular to the edge of the cast iron top (which is unlikely) and that the edge of the sliding table extrusion is flat (which it is not). ?This video describes the theory and one method of checking alignment: ?? Best practice for checking toe-out is described in this video: ?? ?Use whatever indicator you have clamped to the sliding table surface and indicate to a straight edge against the far side of the saw blade as shown in the video.
- With four adjustment bolts, you’re never going to get such a long slider to stay coplanar to the cast iron top through 100 percent of it’s travel. ?Your video illustrates you are close. ?I suspect the elevation you are measuring at the infeed end as you push the slider forward is a combination of chassis deflection (leveling feet will help here), chassis flex (inherent to Hammer design), and/or badly adjusted bearing ways on the X-Roll sliding table. ?Your deflection is only 0.012” and that’s not terrible considering your machine and how it’s set up. If you wanted to attempt finer adjustment, my suggestion is to get it up on proper leveling feet, see if you can adjust the cast iron top to remove end-to-end twist (unlikely you’ll ever get the bow out of the center), and check again. ?If you wanted to dive into the bearing ways, this is not for the faint of heart and requires some special measurement setups, but the process is documented here:
Of everything you video shows, the most concerning to me is how you’re checking slider toe-out.
Hope this helps. ?You will find additional resources on my Flickr account noted below.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Hi everyone,
I’m new to the group, but am pleased to have been directed here recently by David Best. I watched his video on adjusting the slider on his table saw on his YouTube channel, which emboldened me to try again to adjust mine, which has always been a bit janky. I bought the machine used in “as-is” condition.
Anyhow, I’m trying to follow his method, and have a video covering everything on my Instagram, which you can see here:?
This slider is 2 meters long and has four adjustment bolts, ?not six or eight like the longer versions. This I think reduces a bit the degrees of freedom of adjustment when considering the slider at the middle versus the ends of its travel.
Please take a look and offer any advice you can. In particular I have the following questions:
1) The alignment of the slider goes off significantly at the end of its travel. Is this a sign of something, or should I not worry about it?
2) is there a better way to level the table than the shim method that I used?
3) should I worry about the level of flatness of my table? It seems mediocre and actually made aligning the slider extra-challenging.
I’m grateful in advance for any comments you can share, and to David for all the excellent resources he has already provided on the internet.
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JP,
Is there an airbnb for workshops? If not, there should be one. A week in your shop sounds really good.
Imran
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On Dec 29, 2021, at 9:59 AM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote: ?Roger, welcome to the group. I am not the guy to give advice on adjustments but David Best definitely is as well as Brian Lamb, Imran and many others here. As to the shim method I would buy adjusting feet like these from McMaster Carr? <3958E224-FB50-4B22-96B7-38937A5772B8.jpeg>
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Bolt-Down Swivel Leveling Mount
with 4" Long 3/8"-16 Threaded Stud and 3" Diameter Base
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4
each |
6.67
each |
$26.68 |
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Fw: [FOG] Colour Reference for Solid Green Paint 6/7 Series
All,
As best I can match it under 3 different light sources RAL 6016 Turquoise Green with about a 30 % matt finish.
Hopefully this will prove useful to others.
Regards
Paul
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All,?
Thanks for the responses I have a Ral colour chart now and will post which ever colour is the best match later in the day.
Regards Paul
Is there a small piece with that color on it that you could take to Lowes or a paint store to be analyzed?
Bill Belanger
Sadly for the 6 series the color code is "special color".
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Roger, welcome to the group. I am not the guy to give advice on adjustments but David Best definitely is as well as Brian Lamb, Imran and many others here. As to the shim method I would buy adjusting feet like these from McMaster Carr? 
| 1 |
Bolt-Down Swivel Leveling Mount
with 4" Long 3/8"-16 Threaded Stud and 3" Diameter Base
|
4
each |
6.67
each |
$26.68 |
|
Roger,
Is there another way for you to share video? Don’t do instagram and can’t login with facebook because acc to them I do not know my username.
Imran
On Dec 29, 2021, at 6:06 AM, Roger Martini <roger.martini1@...> wrote:
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Bill Belanger
David P. Best
imran
Roger Martini
JP Rice