Re: Reborn Felder owner / blade hoices
Sorry David,
This was my first post and I wanted to share and inquire.
Ed Cohen?
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Re: Reborn Felder owner / blade hoices
I have ?a few Freud LU2A21 (48atb) and a few other tooth configs of the same line, they are very good with no complaints.? I was told by A Felder tech that the Felder Silent power blades were the same and made by Freud and leitz, have a silent power 48 and other than markings look almost if not identical to the Freud.
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 10:42 PM, ecohentoo@... wrote:
?Hi Folks, It's been decades since I last posted on a Felder group. Regretting yet another cumbersome shop move, with great remorse, I sold my Felder K700. Since then, I set up a new small home shop, bought small machines, including a 3hp SawStop. Don't get me wrong, I like this saw, but it ain't a Felder. Missing my old saw, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a new K700 with all the stuff I want.
I know it will take a while to get my new Felder. Eventually, I most likely will sell the SawStop.
On a different note: I am interested in hearing what people have to say about combination blades and which ones they like. In the past, I liked my Ghudo, but have heard good things about Ridge Carbide. What do you think about Felder's own brand?
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Re: Red help with Felder Quick Lock
The instructions that came with mine say the same thing -
The red bolt sets the tension on the ball bearing the Prolock, it is adjusted at th factory and should not be turned.? This is what the Owner of Prolock told me at LIGNA when we bought a batch of pro locks for our super spindles.?
Joe
The instructions I received with mine are instructions for the saw blade lock.? Does anyone know if we are to do anything with the red flat blade screw? ? ? ?Thanks to Michael Marsico, received?ProLock shaper spindle locking caps today. FWIW, there is an icon on top to indicate that the allen set/grub screw is the one to tighten. I did not know how this gizmo works. The split screw that is hand tightened has a dome shape on the underside. The cap has the negative profile. Once the screw is hand tightened I assume the two profiles marry/merge. Now as the allen grub screw is tightened the 2 halves of the screw spread. This should impart a downward force on the lower cap. At least that is what I am theorizing after looking at it. ?Thanks for the replies, it took a pair of pliers to break the knurled screw free, all is good now
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That Schneider Harmony solution was posted by me at? /g/felderownersgroup/topic/83558653The main reason for putting the switches into a separate box was testing - so I could easily access them if something didn't work, etc.?But indeed I became a bit worried about the push force as Imran described. I did a few experiments and typically this issue is not too bad, i.e. the slider doesn't move a whole lot. Being mindful about the issue and providing a very little bit of counter force to the handle?also allows to avoid that movement all together. I would also? guess?that two switches would fit into the slider, certainly not three though. Installing them together with pneumatic plumbing should also be fine. Right now, the box usually resides in the slider handle. I have not yet decided if I just attach the box to the slider or install the switches in the standard position in the slider. Michael
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Re: Reborn Felder owner / blade hoices
What is your name? ? Why don¡¯t you people sign your posts? ? There are tons of posts in the archive about saw blade preferences. ?Search prior posts please.
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Hi Folks, It's been decades since I last posted on a Felder group. Regretting yet another cumbersome shop move, with great remorse, I sold my Felder K700. Since then, I set up a new small home shop, bought small machines, including a 3hp SawStop. Don't get me wrong, I like this saw, but it ain't a Felder. Missing my old saw, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a new K700 with all the stuff I want.
I know it will take a while to get my new Felder. Eventually, I most likely will sell the SawStop.
On a different note: I am interested in hearing what people have to say about combination blades and which ones they like. In the past, I liked my Ghudo, but have heard good things about Ridge Carbide. What do you think about Felder's own brand?
|
Re: Red help with Felder Quick Lock
The red bolt sets the tension on the ball bearing the Prolock, it is adjusted at th factory and should not be turned. ?This is what the Owner of Prolock told me at LIGNA when we bought a batch of pro locks for our super spindles.?
Joe
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The instructions I received with mine are instructions for the saw blade lock.? Does anyone know if we are to do anything with the red flat blade screw? ? ? ?Thanks to Michael Marsico, received?ProLock shaper spindle locking caps today. FWIW, there is an icon on top to indicate that the allen set/grub screw is the one to tighten. I did not know how this gizmo works. The split screw that is hand tightened has a dome shape on the underside. The cap has the negative profile. Once the screw is hand tightened I assume the two profiles marry/merge. Now as the allen grub screw is tightened the 2 halves of the screw spread. This should impart a downward force on the lower cap. At least that is what I am theorizing after looking at it. ?Thanks for the replies, it took a pair of pliers to break the knurled screw free, all is good now
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Re: For Sale: Clamp for Sliding Tenoning Table or other application
Sold for $50 plus shipping.
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Re: Reborn Felder owner / blade hoices
I've been riding the Felder combo blade quote happily but decided next sharpening it's getting swapped out by the recommendations of many here - the Tenryu 300mm class of blades. I haven't put them on yet because I just received them today, but I like the ability to keep the scoring blade set up while swapping out the blades with the same kerf if I need to switch combo out to rip, or a specialty purpose. Pricing also quite reasonable from after navigating the strange way they list their tenryu offerings. I know the tenryu website lists all offerings but these 4 are in that system. 300-dia / 28-tooth count / cbd3 tooth arrangement is format of part #.?
IW-30028CBD3 300mm IW-30050CBD3 300mm IW-300100AB3 300mm
IW-300100D3 300mm
Hi Folks, It's been decades since I last posted on a Felder group. Regretting yet another cumbersome shop move, with great remorse, I sold my Felder K700. Since then, I set up a new small home shop, bought small machines, including a 3hp SawStop. Don't get me wrong, I like this saw, but it ain't a Felder. Missing my old saw, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a new K700 with all the stuff I want.
I know it will take a while to get my new Felder. Eventually, I most likely will sell the SawStop.
On a different note: I am interested in hearing what people have to say about combination blades and which ones they like. In the past, I liked my Ghudo, but have heard good things about Ridge Carbide. What do you think about Felder's own brand?
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This may work in some cases, but not if one or both circuits are GFCIs, and you create an unsafe situation where if one plug is unplugged, the unplugged male plug can have live voltage.?
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 9:52 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? Tom I don¡¯t know if any one mentioned this but if you have a 240 unit you can make a 240 outlet and power it wit two 120 plugs .? Plug your saw into it for 240. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years On Jul 27, 2021, at 1:59 PM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote:
? Tom,
Have you considered a 240 volt portable battery set up? ?
Like this only 240 volts? ?
Chris Chan from Rangate helped me find an inverter to use with my battery powered stacker for when the power would go out in my shop so I could still open the garage door with the remote. ?There was plenty of power in the stacker battery pack but it would probably be too heavy to be portable. ?
Joe
On Jul 27, 2021, at 7:39 AM, tom@... wrote:
[Edited Message Follows] Greetings!?
I had considered posting this in the Mafell forum, but I suspect there's a little more electrical aptitude here. I've been using a Mafell ERIKA 70 for several years now for my on-site work, and I just can't say enough good things about it. For those not familiar with the machines, this video gives a brief overview of pull-push saws:??They are sort of like a portable sliding saw, with the option to either rip or crosscut depending on how you configure it. Changing configurations only takes a couple seconds, and for crosscutting I've found it far more accurate than a miter saw.?
While I am trying to perform more work in my Shop, I think I am destined to spend a sizable portion of my career performing work on-site, so having a good portable solution is important.?
Anyways, with the recent minor facelift of the Erika line, Mafell has discontinued the 120V option on the Erika 70, leaving all of the Erika models now in only 240V. I believe that the machines destined for the NA market are 240V 60Hz, "stock" machines are 240V 50Hz. So, I'm going to jealously guard my 120V Erika 70, but I can see the writing on the walls, and was wondering what my options might be in the future should I either:
?1. Need to replace my Erika 70 120V with a Erika 70 or 85 240V 60Hz, or:
2. Acquire a Erika 60 240V 50Hz for those small jobs where the 70/85 is overkill
My requirements are:
- Need to be able to work on-site in residential settings, with access only to 120V 60hz power. - Needs to supply 240V 60Hz (50Hz would be nice for the Erika 60), the Erika 85 draws 2,500 watts, the Erika 60 draws 1,300 watts - Needs to be a portable solution (preferably <40 lbs)
- Needs to be a solution that is weather tolerant (needs to be able to handle snow, drizzle, heat, cold, etc.....)
- If it¡¯s a battery solution, I can charge 240V in my Shop overnight
- I am usually able to prep most of my materials ahead of time in my Shop, so the on-site work is mostly ripping and trimming cuts. This is a low-volume, one-person show, so not terribly intensive use
I suppose the simplest solution would be something like the Festool Sys-Powerstation??, but I wonder if there are portable step-up transformers or "hardened" VFD solutions? In terms of the Festool Sys-Powerstation, I wonder if anybody would be willing to work with me to get a 240V model imported to NA (please message me privately for this). Or, am I simply out of luck and need to start going with the flow, reverting back to a miter saw and table saw (say it ain't so!!)??
Anyways, I know there's a lot of creativity here, and would be curious what thoughts folks might have. Thank you in advance for any tips or advice.....?
(Edit: clarified requirements)?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Tom I don¡¯t know if any one mentioned this but if you have a 240 unit you can make a 240 outlet and power it wit two 120 plugs .? Plug your saw into it for 240. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 27, 2021, at 1:59 PM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote:
? Tom,
Have you considered a 240 volt portable battery set up? ?
Like this only 240 volts? ?
Chris Chan from Rangate helped me find an inverter to use with my battery powered stacker for when the power would go out in my shop so I could still open the garage door with the remote. ?There was plenty of power in the stacker battery pack but it would probably be too heavy to be portable. ?
Joe
On Jul 27, 2021, at 7:39 AM, tom@... wrote:
[Edited Message Follows] Greetings!?
I had considered posting this in the Mafell forum, but I suspect there's a little more electrical aptitude here. I've been using a Mafell ERIKA 70 for several years now for my on-site work, and I just can't say enough good things about it. For those not familiar with the machines, this video gives a brief overview of pull-push saws:??They are sort of like a portable sliding saw, with the option to either rip or crosscut depending on how you configure it. Changing configurations only takes a couple seconds, and for crosscutting I've found it far more accurate than a miter saw.?
While I am trying to perform more work in my Shop, I think I am destined to spend a sizable portion of my career performing work on-site, so having a good portable solution is important.?
Anyways, with the recent minor facelift of the Erika line, Mafell has discontinued the 120V option on the Erika 70, leaving all of the Erika models now in only 240V. I believe that the machines destined for the NA market are 240V 60Hz, "stock" machines are 240V 50Hz. So, I'm going to jealously guard my 120V Erika 70, but I can see the writing on the walls, and was wondering what my options might be in the future should I either:
?1. Need to replace my Erika 70 120V with a Erika 70 or 85 240V 60Hz, or:
2. Acquire a Erika 60 240V 50Hz for those small jobs where the 70/85 is overkill
My requirements are:
- Need to be able to work on-site in residential settings, with access only to 120V 60hz power. - Needs to supply 240V 60Hz (50Hz would be nice for the Erika 60), the Erika 85 draws 2,500 watts, the Erika 60 draws 1,300 watts - Needs to be a portable solution (preferably <40 lbs)
- Needs to be a solution that is weather tolerant (needs to be able to handle snow, drizzle, heat, cold, etc.....)
- If it¡¯s a battery solution, I can charge 240V in my Shop overnight
- I am usually able to prep most of my materials ahead of time in my Shop, so the on-site work is mostly ripping and trimming cuts. This is a low-volume, one-person show, so not terribly intensive use
I suppose the simplest solution would be something like the Festool Sys-Powerstation??, but I wonder if there are portable step-up transformers or "hardened" VFD solutions? In terms of the Festool Sys-Powerstation, I wonder if anybody would be willing to work with me to get a 240V model imported to NA (please message me privately for this). Or, am I simply out of luck and need to start going with the flow, reverting back to a miter saw and table saw (say it ain't so!!)??
Anyways, I know there's a lot of creativity here, and would be curious what thoughts folks might have. Thank you in advance for any tips or advice.....?
(Edit: clarified requirements)?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Reborn Felder owner / blade hoices
Hi Folks, It's been decades since I last posted on a Felder group. Regretting yet another cumbersome shop move, with great remorse, I sold my Felder K700. Since then, I set up a new small home shop, bought small machines, including a 3hp SawStop. Don't get me wrong, I like this saw, but it ain't a Felder. Missing my old saw, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a new K700 with all the stuff I want.
I know it will take a while to get my new Felder. Eventually, I most likely will sell the SawStop.
On a different note: I am interested in hearing what people have to say about combination blades and which ones they like. In the past, I liked my Ghudo, but have heard good things about Ridge Carbide. What do you think about Felder's own brand?
|
A heads up on using a 120-240 VFD:? they most often do not work with a GFI outlet.?? The GFI incorrectly thinks that there is a leakage and will trip as soon as you start a motor.?? I'm not sure this holds for all makes/models, but it does for mine (on a State spindle sander) and it is a common complaint.?? In my case, the garage opener outlets in the ceiling of my shop space were not GFI protected, so an easy solution with an extension cord.?
--
Terry Therneau
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
Yes I did check that. I have to check continuity, as was mentioned. I have to stare at it all for a bit and see the pattern first. Tomorrow I hope.
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 10:02 PM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
This happen all the time with me.
But each time it's because I didn't give that little red knob a twist
to release it. I'm sure you checked that.
On 7/28/21 5:19 PM, mike krockford wrote:
Nobody has an insight? Seems like a common problem...
On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:07 PM, mike krockford via groups.io <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all. Probably simple fo someone who knows more than I do:
Over the years, occasionally I¡¯d turn off the saw with the small red button (not the emergency twist knob ) and then the saw wouldn¡¯t start up again for several tries. I¡¯d blow out or suction out the dust and it¡¯d then start up. Inconclusive whether dust was the cause.
Well this time, that protocol didn¡¯t work. I opened up both switches, checked connections, blew out dust, untwisted the wire (shown in photo). No luck.
The power from the main cutoff is there - hums until warmed up, indicating ready to go.
I opened up the main panel, blew out the minor dust, traced the power and switch wires to various terminals, and made sure those wires were tight.
I pressed all the fuse buttons (I assume they¡¯re fuse buttons) to ¡°reset¡± them. The black ones depress, the red ones do not.
Still no power to the saw.
Anyone know what¡¯s going on here, or what I can do myself?
Alternatively, anyone know a tech in central jersey that could come fix it? I have the wiring diagrams although they¡¯re confusing to me.
Thanks
Mike
General Idea
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
This happen all the time with me.
? But each time it's because I didn't give that little red knob a twist
to release it. I'm sure you checked that.
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On 7/28/21 5:19 PM, mike krockford wrote: Nobody has an insight? Seems like a common problem...
On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:07 PM, mike krockford via groups.io <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all. Probably simple fo someone who knows more than I do:
Over the years, occasionally I¡¯d turn off the saw with the small red button (not the emergency twist knob ) and then the saw wouldn¡¯t start up again for several tries. I¡¯d blow out or suction out the dust and it¡¯d then start up. Inconclusive whether dust was the cause.
Well this time, that protocol didn¡¯t work. I opened up both switches, checked connections, blew out dust, untwisted the wire (shown in photo). No luck.
The power from the main cutoff is there - hums until warmed up, indicating ready to go.
I opened up the main panel, blew out the minor dust, traced the power and switch wires to various terminals, and made sure those wires were tight.
I pressed all the fuse buttons (I assume they¡¯re fuse buttons) to ¡°reset¡± them. The black ones depress, the red ones do not.
Still no power to the saw.
Anyone know what¡¯s going on here, or what I can do myself?
Alternatively, anyone know a tech in central jersey that could come fix it? I have the wiring diagrams although they¡¯re confusing to me.
Thanks
Mike
General Idea
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Re: Red help with Felder Quick Lock
Joe,
Do you think it matters? instructions for saw vs shaper? I started another thread trying to determine proper tightening torque.
Imran
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote: ?
The instructions I received with mine are instructions for the saw blade lock.? Does anyone know if we are to do anything with the red flat blade screw?
?
?
?Thanks to Michael Marsico, received?ProLock shaper spindle locking caps today. FWIW, there is an icon on top to indicate that the allen set/grub screw is the one to tighten.
I did not know how this gizmo works. The split screw that is hand tightened has a dome shape on the underside.
The cap has the negative profile. Once the screw is hand tightened I assume the two profiles marry/merge. Now as the allen grub screw is tightened the 2 halves of the screw spread. This should impart a downward
force on the lower cap.
At least that is what I am theorizing after looking at it.
On Jul 27, 2021, at 7:22 PM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote:
?Thanks for the replies, it took a pair of pliers to break the knurled screw free, all is good now
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Re: Red help with Felder Quick Lock
The instructions I received with mine are instructions for the saw blade lock.? Does anyone know if we are to do anything with the red flat blade screw?
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2021 1:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Red help with Felder Quick Lock
?
?Thanks to Michael Marsico, received?ProLock shaper spindle locking caps today. FWIW, there is an icon on top to indicate that the allen set/grub screw is the one to tighten.
I did not know how this gizmo works. The split screw that is hand tightened has a dome shape on the underside.
The cap has the negative profile. Once the screw is hand tightened I assume the two profiles marry/merge. Now as the allen grub screw is tightened the 2 halves of the screw spread. This should impart a downward
force on the lower cap.
At least that is what I am theorizing after looking at it.
On Jul 27, 2021, at 7:22 PM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote:
?Thanks for the replies, it took a pair of pliers to break the knurled screw free, all is good now
|
I recently spent several hours on the phone with Felder this week sorting out a fault with my 2020 build KF700 SP, where my remote (slider-mounted) Start switch was working intermittently. Here are some learnings from the conversations:
-- In previous build configurations, Felder used to use separate "Start" buttons for the main blade and scoring blade (as mentioned previously in this conversation). Therefore, each of the wireless receivers have two separate "channels" (one for the Main blade, one for the Scoring blade).?
-- Felder uses a redundant safety system where?BOTH receivers need to detect the "Start" signal. The thinking is, if only one receiver detects some sort of stray signal, it is not unexpectedly starting the saw.?
-- In current builds, there is a single "Start" button, with a separate switch to determine whether the electrically driven scoring unit engages or not when the "Start" button is activated.?
-- In current builds, Felder is still using the same wireless receivers as they used to, but they're only using one channel per receiver.?
-- The slider-mounted "Stop" button is hardwired, and the entire system is set up so that if there is a fault somewhere the machine fail-safes to an "Off" configuration. I asked why they don't just hardwire the "Start" button, and he speculated that it would add more wires in an already crowded slider.?
After a lot of poking and prodding with a multimeter, we determined that the switch on the first channel on the second wireless receiver was not always working, thus the intermittent operation (we think). As a short term fix, the Felder tech had me re-wire the second wireless receiver to use the second channel and program it to the remote "Start" transmitter. The saw is now working great, and the tech indicated he will advocate for Felder to ship a replacement receiver under warranty.
There's a part of me that thinks that having a wireless "Start" button adds unnecessary complexity and opportunities for failure, and that it shouldn't be too much trouble to integrated a wired "Start" solution on the slider, but I'm just the guy who cuts boards too short, so what do I know.?
I'll update if anything changes....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
Hi to all, and thank you for the responses. For some reason, they didn¡¯t appear in my email. Imran told me to check the website. Then I saw everything, and now it¡¯s also in my email.?
I have attached the wiring diagrams. ?I don¡¯t think this was part of a combination machine, though I¡¯m the third owner so I don¡¯t really know. It¡¯s only a saw. Years ago I disabled the brake, I forget why. But my history with occasional nonstarting mirrors Bill¡¯s and so I¡¯ll try what he did on his machine.?
Thanks for the help. Any other help is most welcome.?
Mike?
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 6:01 PM, stuebgen2287@... wrote: Mike, my trail of frustration parallels yours about a year earlier; no start, suction, compressed air, circle the machine opening and re-closing lock out switches, unplug the machine, wait and cuss. Sometimes it would start; but sometimes it wouldn¡¯t, finally completely dead. My machine is a 1998 BF-741, so 5 functions. The part numbers on the two relays shown in your second picture are exactly the same as mine. You remove the relay by pushing toward the switch on the round claw mechanism right under where Siemens is printed in the middle with a flat screwdriver. Here¡¯s how I solved my problem.
Disassembled switch plate for shaper, exposing the back of the switches, focusing attention on the ¡°ON¡± switch. Using a continuity tester, determined that the Siemens relay had failed (no continuity with switch button depressed or not). Contacted local electrical supplier for Siemens (Consolidated Electric Distributors here in Boise) to get replacement relay. I¡¯ll spare you the calls and trips, but eventually learned Siemens had redesigned the form factor for the relays and switch blocks a couple years earlier. I ordered one of each of the new style, which luckily were available and compatible with the switch. Inserted the new parts, and problem solved. Cost at this point was under $20.
As an aside, I also decided to replace the flat red "OFF" switch for the shaper with a mushroom emergency switch, with because of project urgency got swapped for the one on the J/P because of ordering delay. Now everything is working properly. Cost now about $75.
If you determine you need to replace the Siemens relay, make sure to get the exact match (depending on whether it's an "OFF" or "ON" switch, the relay needs to be NO-NC or NO-NO respectively [normally open/normally closed[). It's printed on the relay.
I'll admit to being electrically challenged, but this was easily completed. Hope your solution is as easy as mine, and this information helps; as they say, YMMV.
Bill Stuebgen
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
Mike, my trail of frustration parallels yours about a year earlier; no start, suction, compressed air, circle the machine opening and re-closing lock out switches, unplug the machine, wait and cuss. Sometimes it would start; but sometimes it wouldn¡¯t, finally completely dead. My machine is a 1998 BF-741, so 5 functions. The part numbers on the two relays shown in your second picture are exactly the same as mine. You remove the relay by pushing toward the switch on the round claw mechanism right under where Siemens is printed in the middle with a flat screwdriver. Here¡¯s how I solved my problem.
Disassembled switch plate for shaper, exposing the back of the switches, focusing attention on the ¡°ON¡± switch. Using a continuity tester, determined that the Siemens relay had failed (no continuity with switch button depressed or not). Contacted local electrical supplier for Siemens (Consolidated Electric Distributors here in Boise) to get replacement relay. I¡¯ll spare you the calls and trips, but eventually learned Siemens had redesigned the form factor for the relays and switch blocks a couple years earlier. I ordered one of each of the new style, which luckily were available and compatible with the switch. Inserted the new parts, and problem solved. Cost at this point was under $20.
As an aside, I also decided to replace the flat red "OFF" switch for the shaper with a mushroom emergency switch, with because of project urgency got swapped for the one on the J/P because of ordering delay. Now everything is working properly. Cost now about $75.
If you determine you need to replace the Siemens relay, make sure to get the exact match (depending on whether it's an "OFF" or "ON" switch, the relay needs to be NO-NC or NO-NO respectively [normally open/normally closed[). It's printed on the relay.
I'll admit to being electrically challenged, but this was easily completed. Hope your solution is as easy as mine, and this information helps; as they say, YMMV.
Bill Stuebgen
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
One of the switches in the ¡°stop¡± circuit is open. Could be due to debris or a faulty/failed switch. There are probably four switches, all connected in series such that if any are open, the machine will refuse to start. There are two button switches (Stop and E-Stop) and two microswitches (blade cover and hinged chassis access door). They are powered by 24VAC. Check continuity.
David Best - via mobile phone
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 2:19 PM, mike krockford <mcrockford@...> wrote:
?Nobody has an insight? Seems like a common problem...
On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:07 PM, mike krockford via groups.io <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all. Probably simple fo someone who knows more than I do:
Over the years, occasionally I¡¯d turn off the saw with the small red button (not the emergency twist knob ) and then the saw wouldn¡¯t start up again for several tries. I¡¯d blow out or suction out the dust and it¡¯d then start up. Inconclusive whether dust was the cause.
Well this time, that protocol didn¡¯t work. I opened up both switches, checked connections, blew out dust, untwisted the wire (shown in photo). No luck.
The power from the main cutoff is there - hums until warmed up, indicating ready to go.
I opened up the main panel, blew out the minor dust, traced the power and switch wires to various terminals, and made sure those wires were tight.
I pressed all the fuse buttons (I assume they¡¯re fuse buttons) to ¡°reset¡± them. The black ones depress, the red ones do not.
Still no power to the saw.
Anyone know what¡¯s going on here, or what I can do myself?
Alternatively, anyone know a tech in central jersey that could come fix it? I have the wiring diagrams although they¡¯re confusing to me.
Thanks
Mike
General Idea
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David P. Best
imran
Joe Jensen
Tom Gensmer