Reborn Felder owner / blade hoices
Hi Folks, It's been decades since I last posted on a Felder group. Regretting yet another cumbersome shop move, with great remorse, I sold my Felder K700. Since then, I set up a new small home shop, bought small machines, including a 3hp SawStop. Don't get me wrong, I like this saw, but it ain't a Felder. Missing my old saw, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a new K700 with all the stuff I want.
I know it will take a while to get my new Felder. Eventually, I most likely will sell the SawStop.
On a different note: I am interested in hearing what people have to say about combination blades and which ones they like. In the past, I liked my Ghudo, but have heard good things about Ridge Carbide. What do you think about Felder's own brand?
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A heads up on using a 120-240 VFD:? they most often do not work with a GFI outlet.?? The GFI incorrectly thinks that there is a leakage and will trip as soon as you start a motor.?? I'm not sure this holds for all makes/models, but it does for mine (on a State spindle sander) and it is a common complaint.?? In my case, the garage opener outlets in the ceiling of my shop space were not GFI protected, so an easy solution with an extension cord.?
--
Terry Therneau
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
Yes I did check that. I have to check continuity, as was mentioned. I have to stare at it all for a bit and see the pattern first. Tomorrow I hope.
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 10:02 PM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
This happen all the time with me.
But each time it's because I didn't give that little red knob a twist
to release it. I'm sure you checked that.
On 7/28/21 5:19 PM, mike krockford wrote:
Nobody has an insight? Seems like a common problem...
On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:07 PM, mike krockford via groups.io <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all. Probably simple fo someone who knows more than I do:
Over the years, occasionally I¡¯d turn off the saw with the small red button (not the emergency twist knob ) and then the saw wouldn¡¯t start up again for several tries. I¡¯d blow out or suction out the dust and it¡¯d then start up. Inconclusive whether dust was the cause.
Well this time, that protocol didn¡¯t work. I opened up both switches, checked connections, blew out dust, untwisted the wire (shown in photo). No luck.
The power from the main cutoff is there - hums until warmed up, indicating ready to go.
I opened up the main panel, blew out the minor dust, traced the power and switch wires to various terminals, and made sure those wires were tight.
I pressed all the fuse buttons (I assume they¡¯re fuse buttons) to ¡°reset¡± them. The black ones depress, the red ones do not.
Still no power to the saw.
Anyone know what¡¯s going on here, or what I can do myself?
Alternatively, anyone know a tech in central jersey that could come fix it? I have the wiring diagrams although they¡¯re confusing to me.
Thanks
Mike
General Idea
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
This happen all the time with me.
? But each time it's because I didn't give that little red knob a twist
to release it. I'm sure you checked that.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7/28/21 5:19 PM, mike krockford wrote: Nobody has an insight? Seems like a common problem...
On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:07 PM, mike krockford via groups.io <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all. Probably simple fo someone who knows more than I do:
Over the years, occasionally I¡¯d turn off the saw with the small red button (not the emergency twist knob ) and then the saw wouldn¡¯t start up again for several tries. I¡¯d blow out or suction out the dust and it¡¯d then start up. Inconclusive whether dust was the cause.
Well this time, that protocol didn¡¯t work. I opened up both switches, checked connections, blew out dust, untwisted the wire (shown in photo). No luck.
The power from the main cutoff is there - hums until warmed up, indicating ready to go.
I opened up the main panel, blew out the minor dust, traced the power and switch wires to various terminals, and made sure those wires were tight.
I pressed all the fuse buttons (I assume they¡¯re fuse buttons) to ¡°reset¡± them. The black ones depress, the red ones do not.
Still no power to the saw.
Anyone know what¡¯s going on here, or what I can do myself?
Alternatively, anyone know a tech in central jersey that could come fix it? I have the wiring diagrams although they¡¯re confusing to me.
Thanks
Mike
General Idea
<image4.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
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Re: Red help with Felder Quick Lock
Joe,
Do you think it matters? instructions for saw vs shaper? I started another thread trying to determine proper tightening torque.
Imran
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote: ?
The instructions I received with mine are instructions for the saw blade lock.? Does anyone know if we are to do anything with the red flat blade screw?
?
?
?Thanks to Michael Marsico, received?ProLock shaper spindle locking caps today. FWIW, there is an icon on top to indicate that the allen set/grub screw is the one to tighten.
I did not know how this gizmo works. The split screw that is hand tightened has a dome shape on the underside.
The cap has the negative profile. Once the screw is hand tightened I assume the two profiles marry/merge. Now as the allen grub screw is tightened the 2 halves of the screw spread. This should impart a downward
force on the lower cap.
At least that is what I am theorizing after looking at it.
On Jul 27, 2021, at 7:22 PM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote:
?Thanks for the replies, it took a pair of pliers to break the knurled screw free, all is good now
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Re: Red help with Felder Quick Lock
The instructions I received with mine are instructions for the saw blade lock.? Does anyone know if we are to do anything with the red flat blade screw?
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2021 1:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Red help with Felder Quick Lock
?
?Thanks to Michael Marsico, received?ProLock shaper spindle locking caps today. FWIW, there is an icon on top to indicate that the allen set/grub screw is the one to tighten.
I did not know how this gizmo works. The split screw that is hand tightened has a dome shape on the underside.
The cap has the negative profile. Once the screw is hand tightened I assume the two profiles marry/merge. Now as the allen grub screw is tightened the 2 halves of the screw spread. This should impart a downward
force on the lower cap.
At least that is what I am theorizing after looking at it.
On Jul 27, 2021, at 7:22 PM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote:
?Thanks for the replies, it took a pair of pliers to break the knurled screw free, all is good now
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I recently spent several hours on the phone with Felder this week sorting out a fault with my 2020 build KF700 SP, where my remote (slider-mounted) Start switch was working intermittently. Here are some learnings from the conversations:
-- In previous build configurations, Felder used to use separate "Start" buttons for the main blade and scoring blade (as mentioned previously in this conversation). Therefore, each of the wireless receivers have two separate "channels" (one for the Main blade, one for the Scoring blade).?
-- Felder uses a redundant safety system where?BOTH receivers need to detect the "Start" signal. The thinking is, if only one receiver detects some sort of stray signal, it is not unexpectedly starting the saw.?
-- In current builds, there is a single "Start" button, with a separate switch to determine whether the electrically driven scoring unit engages or not when the "Start" button is activated.?
-- In current builds, Felder is still using the same wireless receivers as they used to, but they're only using one channel per receiver.?
-- The slider-mounted "Stop" button is hardwired, and the entire system is set up so that if there is a fault somewhere the machine fail-safes to an "Off" configuration. I asked why they don't just hardwire the "Start" button, and he speculated that it would add more wires in an already crowded slider.?
After a lot of poking and prodding with a multimeter, we determined that the switch on the first channel on the second wireless receiver was not always working, thus the intermittent operation (we think). As a short term fix, the Felder tech had me re-wire the second wireless receiver to use the second channel and program it to the remote "Start" transmitter. The saw is now working great, and the tech indicated he will advocate for Felder to ship a replacement receiver under warranty.
There's a part of me that thinks that having a wireless "Start" button adds unnecessary complexity and opportunities for failure, and that it shouldn't be too much trouble to integrated a wired "Start" solution on the slider, but I'm just the guy who cuts boards too short, so what do I know.?
I'll update if anything changes....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
Hi to all, and thank you for the responses. For some reason, they didn¡¯t appear in my email. Imran told me to check the website. Then I saw everything, and now it¡¯s also in my email.?
I have attached the wiring diagrams. ?I don¡¯t think this was part of a combination machine, though I¡¯m the third owner so I don¡¯t really know. It¡¯s only a saw. Years ago I disabled the brake, I forget why. But my history with occasional nonstarting mirrors Bill¡¯s and so I¡¯ll try what he did on his machine.?
Thanks for the help. Any other help is most welcome.?
Mike?
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 6:01 PM, stuebgen2287@... wrote: Mike, my trail of frustration parallels yours about a year earlier; no start, suction, compressed air, circle the machine opening and re-closing lock out switches, unplug the machine, wait and cuss. Sometimes it would start; but sometimes it wouldn¡¯t, finally completely dead. My machine is a 1998 BF-741, so 5 functions. The part numbers on the two relays shown in your second picture are exactly the same as mine. You remove the relay by pushing toward the switch on the round claw mechanism right under where Siemens is printed in the middle with a flat screwdriver. Here¡¯s how I solved my problem.
Disassembled switch plate for shaper, exposing the back of the switches, focusing attention on the ¡°ON¡± switch. Using a continuity tester, determined that the Siemens relay had failed (no continuity with switch button depressed or not). Contacted local electrical supplier for Siemens (Consolidated Electric Distributors here in Boise) to get replacement relay. I¡¯ll spare you the calls and trips, but eventually learned Siemens had redesigned the form factor for the relays and switch blocks a couple years earlier. I ordered one of each of the new style, which luckily were available and compatible with the switch. Inserted the new parts, and problem solved. Cost at this point was under $20.
As an aside, I also decided to replace the flat red "OFF" switch for the shaper with a mushroom emergency switch, with because of project urgency got swapped for the one on the J/P because of ordering delay. Now everything is working properly. Cost now about $75.
If you determine you need to replace the Siemens relay, make sure to get the exact match (depending on whether it's an "OFF" or "ON" switch, the relay needs to be NO-NC or NO-NO respectively [normally open/normally closed[). It's printed on the relay.
I'll admit to being electrically challenged, but this was easily completed. Hope your solution is as easy as mine, and this information helps; as they say, YMMV.
Bill Stuebgen
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
Mike, my trail of frustration parallels yours about a year earlier; no start, suction, compressed air, circle the machine opening and re-closing lock out switches, unplug the machine, wait and cuss. Sometimes it would start; but sometimes it wouldn¡¯t, finally completely dead. My machine is a 1998 BF-741, so 5 functions. The part numbers on the two relays shown in your second picture are exactly the same as mine. You remove the relay by pushing toward the switch on the round claw mechanism right under where Siemens is printed in the middle with a flat screwdriver. Here¡¯s how I solved my problem.
Disassembled switch plate for shaper, exposing the back of the switches, focusing attention on the ¡°ON¡± switch. Using a continuity tester, determined that the Siemens relay had failed (no continuity with switch button depressed or not). Contacted local electrical supplier for Siemens (Consolidated Electric Distributors here in Boise) to get replacement relay. I¡¯ll spare you the calls and trips, but eventually learned Siemens had redesigned the form factor for the relays and switch blocks a couple years earlier. I ordered one of each of the new style, which luckily were available and compatible with the switch. Inserted the new parts, and problem solved. Cost at this point was under $20.
As an aside, I also decided to replace the flat red "OFF" switch for the shaper with a mushroom emergency switch, with because of project urgency got swapped for the one on the J/P because of ordering delay. Now everything is working properly. Cost now about $75.
If you determine you need to replace the Siemens relay, make sure to get the exact match (depending on whether it's an "OFF" or "ON" switch, the relay needs to be NO-NC or NO-NO respectively [normally open/normally closed[). It's printed on the relay.
I'll admit to being electrically challenged, but this was easily completed. Hope your solution is as easy as mine, and this information helps; as they say, YMMV.
Bill Stuebgen
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
One of the switches in the ¡°stop¡± circuit is open. Could be due to debris or a faulty/failed switch. There are probably four switches, all connected in series such that if any are open, the machine will refuse to start. There are two button switches (Stop and E-Stop) and two microswitches (blade cover and hinged chassis access door). They are powered by 24VAC. Check continuity.
David Best - via mobile phone
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 2:19 PM, mike krockford <mcrockford@...> wrote:
?Nobody has an insight? Seems like a common problem...
On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:07 PM, mike krockford via groups.io <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all. Probably simple fo someone who knows more than I do:
Over the years, occasionally I¡¯d turn off the saw with the small red button (not the emergency twist knob ) and then the saw wouldn¡¯t start up again for several tries. I¡¯d blow out or suction out the dust and it¡¯d then start up. Inconclusive whether dust was the cause.
Well this time, that protocol didn¡¯t work. I opened up both switches, checked connections, blew out dust, untwisted the wire (shown in photo). No luck.
The power from the main cutoff is there - hums until warmed up, indicating ready to go.
I opened up the main panel, blew out the minor dust, traced the power and switch wires to various terminals, and made sure those wires were tight.
I pressed all the fuse buttons (I assume they¡¯re fuse buttons) to ¡°reset¡± them. The black ones depress, the red ones do not.
Still no power to the saw.
Anyone know what¡¯s going on here, or what I can do myself?
Alternatively, anyone know a tech in central jersey that could come fix it? I have the wiring diagrams although they¡¯re confusing to me.
Thanks
Mike
General Idea
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
Mike,
I responded yesterday. If you did not get it in email my response is on FOG site.
Imran
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 5:19 PM, mike krockford <mcrockford@...> wrote: ?Nobody has an insight? Seems like a common problem... On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:07 PM, mike krockford via groups.io <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all. Probably simple fo someone who knows more than I do:
Over the years, occasionally I¡¯d turn off the saw with the small red button (not the emergency twist knob ) and then the saw wouldn¡¯t start up again for several tries. I¡¯d blow out or suction out the dust and it¡¯d then start up. Inconclusive whether dust was the cause.
Well this time, that protocol didn¡¯t work. I opened up both switches, checked connections, blew out dust, untwisted the wire (shown in photo). No luck.
The power from the main cutoff is there - hums until warmed up, indicating ready to go.
I opened up the main panel, blew out the minor dust, traced the power and switch wires to various terminals, and made sure those wires were tight.
I pressed all the fuse buttons (I assume they¡¯re fuse buttons) to ¡°reset¡± them. The black ones depress, the red ones do not.
Still no power to the saw.
Anyone know what¡¯s going on here, or what I can do myself?
Alternatively, anyone know a tech in central jersey that could come fix it? I have the wiring diagrams although they¡¯re confusing to me.
Thanks
Mike
General Idea
<image4.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
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Re: 1996 K7X switch problem...
Nobody has an insight? Seems like a common problem...
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On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:07 PM, mike krockford via groups.io <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all. Probably simple fo someone who knows more than I do:
Over the years, occasionally I¡¯d turn off the saw with the small red button (not the emergency twist knob ) and then the saw wouldn¡¯t start up again for several tries. I¡¯d blow out or suction out the dust and it¡¯d then start up. Inconclusive whether dust was the cause.
Well this time, that protocol didn¡¯t work. I opened up both switches, checked connections, blew out dust, untwisted the wire (shown in photo). No luck.
The power from the main cutoff is there - hums until warmed up, indicating ready to go.
I opened up the main panel, blew out the minor dust, traced the power and switch wires to various terminals, and made sure those wires were tight.
I pressed all the fuse buttons (I assume they¡¯re fuse buttons) to ¡°reset¡± them. The black ones depress, the red ones do not.
Still no power to the saw.
Anyone know what¡¯s going on here, or what I can do myself?
Alternatively, anyone know a tech in central jersey that could come fix it? I have the wiring diagrams although they¡¯re confusing to me.
Thanks
Mike
General Idea
<image4.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
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Re: Red help with Felder Quick Lock
? Thanks to Michael Marsico, received?ProLock shaper spindle locking caps today. FWIW, there is an icon on top to indicate that the allen set/grub screw is the one to tighten.
I did not know how this gizmo works. The split screw that is hand tightened has a dome shape on the underside.
The cap has the negative profile. Once the screw is hand tightened I assume the two profiles marry/merge. Now as the allen grub screw is tightened the 2 halves of the screw spread. This should impart a downward force on the lower cap.
At least that is what I am theorizing after looking at it.
Imran
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On Jul 27, 2021, at 7:22 PM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote: ?Thanks for the replies, it took a pair of pliers to break the knurled screw free, all is good now
|
Re: Red help with Felder Quick Lock
Thanks to Michael Marsico, received?ProLock shaper spindle locking caps today. FWIW, there is an icon on top to indicate that the allen set/grub screw is the one to tighten.
I did not know how this gizmo works. The split screw that is hand tightened has a dome shape on the underside.
The cap has the negative profile. Once the screw is hand tightened I assume the two profiles marry/merge. Now as the allen grub screw is tightened the 2 halves of the screw spread. This should impart a downward force on the lower cap.
At least that is what I am theorizing after looking at it.
Imran
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On Jul 27, 2021, at 7:22 PM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote: ?Thanks for the replies, it took a pair of pliers to break the knurled screw free, all is good now
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when I am xcutting relatively narrow stock I move my outrigger to approximately middle of slider. This gives me good access to K975 switch panel.
Imran
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 2:53 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote: ?
My add on switches are nearly as pretty but I got some coiled cord from McMaster and mounted a box that could be mounted anywhere on the slider like a butt bar.? The original switches on the Knapp would be more convenient if located in Tibet so I added several
while I was at it.? The nice thing about being able to move the switches on the slider is when crosscutting stock on the outboard end and the front of the table isn't convenient.? Dave
See photo for oem with mac's plumbing.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 1:08 PM imranindiana via
<imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote:
Brandon,
A high end (expensive) solution is based upon Schneider Harmony. There is a post on that as well. The poster did a pendent because multiple switches won¡¯t fit in slider. IIRC, if you want just start switch it might fit. I think the poster was
also concerned about push force and did not feel comfortable with that, i.e. slider movement concern while pushing the button.
I went the route I did because I wanted 3 switches.
Final note, if you want to install pneumatic clamps, keep that plumbing in mind while you approach installing remote start/stop switches in the slider.
My install works with pneumatic clamps.
Imran?
?Is there any way to determine what options are available to retrofit a machine with the remote slider buttons? Mine has the belt driven scoring blade so I only need one start button. Stop probably isn't as big an issue since the table will be
out of the way at that point.
My reading of the prior posts indicates that the switches used to be wired, but are now wireless. Which would be the preferred option for a 2018 KF700SP machine? Is this an "easy" retrofit for someone (me) with an industrial controls background? If so, and
someone already has a parts list and schematic available, that would be awfully handy. I haven't gotten into my machine yet, but I'm assuming they are using a standard set of terminals and a contactor, adding parts based on the options ordered.
Thanks,
Brandon
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Complete plans for a wired remote are located in t he group files section.?
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 11:53 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
My add on switches are nearly as pretty but I got some coiled cord from McMaster and mounted a box that could be mounted anywhere on the slider like a butt bar.? The original switches on the Knapp would be more convenient if located in Tibet so I added several
while I was at it.? The nice thing about being able to move the switches on the slider is when crosscutting stock on the outboard end and the front of the table isn't convenient.? Dave
See photo for oem with mac's plumbing.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 1:08 PM imranindiana via
<imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote:
Brandon,
A high end (expensive) solution is based upon Schneider Harmony. There is a post on that as well. The poster did a pendent because multiple switches won¡¯t fit in slider. IIRC, if you want just start switch it might fit. I think the poster was
also concerned about push force and did not feel comfortable with that, i.e. slider movement concern while pushing the button.
I went the route I did because I wanted 3 switches.
Final note, if you want to install pneumatic clamps, keep that plumbing in mind while you approach installing remote start/stop switches in the slider.
My install works with pneumatic clamps.
Imran?
?Is there any way to determine what options are available to retrofit a machine with the remote slider buttons? Mine has the belt driven scoring blade so I only need one start button. Stop probably isn't as big an issue since the table will be
out of the way at that point.
My reading of the prior posts indicates that the switches used to be wired, but are now wireless. Which would be the preferred option for a 2018 KF700SP machine? Is this an "easy" retrofit for someone (me) with an industrial controls background? If so, and
someone already has a parts list and schematic available, that would be awfully handy. I haven't gotten into my machine yet, but I'm assuming they are using a standard set of terminals and a contactor, adding parts based on the options ordered.
Thanks,
Brandon
|
My add on switches are nearly as pretty but I got some coiled cord from McMaster and mounted a box that could be mounted anywhere on the slider like a butt bar.? The original switches on the Knapp would be more convenient if located in Tibet so I added several
while I was at it.? The nice thing about being able to move the switches on the slider is when crosscutting stock on the outboard end and the front of the table isn't convenient.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
See photo for oem with mac's plumbing.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 1:08 PM imranindiana via
<imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote:
Brandon,
A high end (expensive) solution is based upon Schneider Harmony. There is a post on that as well. The poster did a pendent because multiple switches won¡¯t fit in slider. IIRC, if you want just start switch it might fit. I think the poster was
also concerned about push force and did not feel comfortable with that, i.e. slider movement concern while pushing the button.
I went the route I did because I wanted 3 switches.
Final note, if you want to install pneumatic clamps, keep that plumbing in mind while you approach installing remote start/stop switches in the slider.
My install works with pneumatic clamps.
Imran?
?Is there any way to determine what options are available to retrofit a machine with the remote slider buttons? Mine has the belt driven scoring blade so I only need one start button. Stop probably isn't as big an issue since the table will be
out of the way at that point.
My reading of the prior posts indicates that the switches used to be wired, but are now wireless. Which would be the preferred option for a 2018 KF700SP machine? Is this an "easy" retrofit for someone (me) with an industrial controls background? If so, and
someone already has a parts list and schematic available, that would be awfully handy. I haven't gotten into my machine yet, but I'm assuming they are using a standard set of terminals and a contactor, adding parts based on the options ordered.
Thanks,
Brandon
|
See photo for oem with mac's plumbing.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 1:08 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brandon,
A high end (expensive) solution is based upon Schneider Harmony. There is a post on that as well. The poster did a pendent because multiple switches won¡¯t fit in slider. IIRC, if you want just start switch it might fit. I think the poster was also concerned about push force and did not feel comfortable with that, i.e. slider movement concern while pushing the button.
I went the route I did because I wanted 3 switches.
Final note, if you want to install pneumatic clamps, keep that plumbing in mind while you approach installing remote start/stop switches in the slider.
My install works with pneumatic clamps.
Imran? ?Is there any way to determine what options are available to retrofit a machine with the remote slider buttons? Mine has the belt driven scoring blade so I only need one start button. Stop probably isn't as big an issue since the table will be out of the way at that point.
My reading of the prior posts indicates that the switches used to be wired, but are now wireless. Which would be the preferred option for a 2018 KF700SP machine? Is this an "easy" retrofit for someone (me) with an industrial controls background? If so, and someone already has a parts list and schematic available, that would be awfully handy. I haven't gotten into my machine yet, but I'm assuming they are using a standard set of terminals and a contactor, adding parts based on the options ordered.
Thanks,
Brandon
|
Brandon,
A high end (expensive) solution is based upon Schneider Harmony. There is a post on that as well. The poster did a pendent because multiple switches won¡¯t fit in slider. IIRC, if you want just start switch it might fit. I think the poster was also concerned about push force and did not feel comfortable with that, i.e. slider movement concern while pushing the button.
I went the route I did because I wanted 3 switches.
Final note, if you want to install pneumatic clamps, keep that plumbing in mind while you approach installing remote start/stop switches in the slider.
My install works with pneumatic clamps.
Imran?
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On Jul 28, 2021, at 1:22 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote: ?Is there any way to determine what options are available to retrofit a machine with the remote slider buttons? Mine has the belt driven scoring blade so I only need one start button. Stop probably isn't as big an issue since the table will be out of the way at that point.
My reading of the prior posts indicates that the switches used to be wired, but are now wireless. Which would be the preferred option for a 2018 KF700SP machine? Is this an "easy" retrofit for someone (me) with an industrial controls background? If so, and someone already has a parts list and schematic available, that would be awfully handy. I haven't gotten into my machine yet, but I'm assuming they are using a standard set of terminals and a contactor, adding parts based on the options ordered.
Thanks,
Brandon
|
Brandon,?
My machine is 2019 kf700sp - the back round?plastic handle at the end of the slider is packed with the buttons and 2 wires go through slider, a hole in the chassis, and a couple terminals on the body block under the saw mechanism. I bet it's a Felder office telephone call part # if you are trying to keep OEM.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 12:54 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brandon,
Check this post
If interested, I can send you the details I shared with Stan Blaszczyk.
Imran? ?Is there any way to determine what options are available to retrofit a machine with the remote slider buttons? Mine has the belt driven scoring blade so I only need one start button. Stop probably isn't as big an issue since the table will be out of the way at that point.
My reading of the prior posts indicates that the switches used to be wired, but are now wireless. Which would be the preferred option for a 2018 KF700SP machine? Is this an "easy" retrofit for someone (me) with an industrial controls background? If so, and someone already has a parts list and schematic available, that would be awfully handy. I haven't gotten into my machine yet, but I'm assuming they are using a standard set of terminals and a contactor, adding parts based on the options ordered.
Thanks,
Brandon
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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imran
Joe Jensen
Tom Gensmer
David P. Best
