?

?I just got the dual MacClamp setup for my bolt on sliding table for my Shaper. ?The one that came with the slider is shown in the picture. ?No need for it, but I am thinking this may be of some value to a member. ?Willing to sell it for whatever the first person who posts (other than Randy who will say $0.02) says it should be worth plus shipping.

It fits into a 14x10x7 box with a shipping weight of 18 lbs. ?The slider is like the Panhans and I think it is a Hoffmann (not sure if I have the right number of "f" and "n" letters.

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Paul Curme <paul.curme@...>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2021 3:06 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] 3 Phase to 1Phase conversion - braked motors

?

On Jul 25, 2021, at 1:26 PM, Ameer N. <highentropy@...> wrote:

?Imran,

Great follow up! I can see how that would really get the machine dialed in at 20mm.

My machine loses calibration every time I turn it off, perhaps this is because I run the machine off of a RPC? Therefore planing a board to 20mm each time and checking with calipers would leave me with a LOT of 20mm boards :P

?David, as Imran mentioned, I just moved a KF700 with the 10' tables from near Austin, TX to St Louis, MO. I certainly learned a few things.

First, whether you are moving 100 or 1000 miles probably doesn't matter. The packing has to be the same. As mentioned, I used a drop deck trailer. I found a couple of local rental places that had them. I only paid $195 for a full week rental. You might call around and look for more options. I found a single axle 6 x 10 "Air-tow". That was a lot cheaper than the dual axle options and the 7000lb capacity was more than adequate.

My machine has the wheel kit and I was able to easily roll it right onto the trailer. Before I left home I made a wood deck out of 2x6s so that I had something to screw into the shipping brackets that Imran was kind enough to mail me. To keep the wood deck from shifting I blocked it against the sides and front of the trailer. I sliced another 2x6 at a 15° angle to make a ramp to allow rolling the machine on top of the wood deck. I also brought along a bunch of 2x4 and 2x6 pieces to block the trailer. I ended up using them to set the saw on so that the weight was off the wheel kit which I didn't want to remove. A floor jack the owner had was very helpful for getting those blocks in place.

Once in place I soaked the cast iron table down in . It's basically Cosmoline. As Imran mentioned, I wedged the table ends using the 3D printed shims I'd made in advance. I had made 3 sets (34-35mm, 35-36, and 36-37), based on the dimensions Imran gave me for his saw. Turns out my saw was about 37.5mm so I used the smallest plastic shim and then added two pine wedges on top. I was very careful not to drive them in too hard. However, one set came loose during my 1000 mile trip, so make sure they're at least solidly in place. There's no great way to secure them. You might put some tape over them once they're in place to prevent them coming out during a bounce. Then I used as much 24" shrink wrap as I thought was reasonable to cover the table and wrap the saw. I paid extra attention to the ends of the sliding table. Once the shrink wrap was in place I installed 8 "Made in the USA" tie-down straps from the saw chassis to the tie-down rings on the trailer. I used the vertical studs under the sliding table mount and the cast iron table. Between those and the steel hold-down brackets, I felt very confident it wasn't going anywhere.?

Then I added the heavy-duty tarp of the whole assembly. That turned out to be the biggest hassle. I tried tying it down with 550 paracord and a few ratchet straps, but there was no great way to secure it. After the first couple miles on the highway it was obvious I needed to add a LOT more ratchet straps. I stopped at Home Depot and bought a pile of the $1.75 15' versions. I had 8 good ones on the saw and another 16 cheap ones holding the tarp tight from flapping. If you can just avoid moving in the rain, I recommend avoiding the tarp entirely.

The rest of the trip was pretty uneventful. The trailer was pretty bouncy and only after I arrived did I discover that the rental place had given me incomplete instructions. They told me to turn off the master power switch when I wasn't using the hydraulics. They failed to mention that also supplies power to the air suspension. So, I'm pretty sure that my ride was much rougher than it needed to be because the air suspension was not pumped up. If you get a drop deck with air suspension, make sure that you have the power on when in motion.

If I was doing it again, I would probably make some 3D printed shims that fit in the X-Roll bearings instead of under the table. That's what Felder shows in the manual. I haven't had a chance to measure and draw something for that. It should be a very simple square tapering in two dimensions. If you've got some time, I can measure mine, draw them up and send you the file, or even make a set and mail them to you.

I also have not completely reassembled the saw, so I'm not sure in what condition it arrived. I had to order a few straight edges and more dial indicators so that I can follow David Best's alignment procedure. Hopefully I didn't bend anything.

Let me know if you have any questions. This group is great! I can't thank Imran enough for his helpful posts before and after my trip.

-Brandon