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Re: Shaper talk F700z vs. F900z

 

Brett,

Both David and yourself make very strong arguments.? ?I do want to by a lifetime machine.

As a bonus, it seems as you move up the line, optional stuff becomes standard and softens the blow somewhat.

What are your opinions on variable speed?? Is that something to break, or an amazing feature?? Or is 5 speeds fine?

X-motion is more obviously, but the programmability seems really awesome and time saving?!? Anyone have thoughts on that?

Again TIA

PK
Re: planer power drive height adjustment?

 

Imran,

Great follow up! I can see how that would really get the machine dialed in at 20mm.

My machine loses calibration every time I turn it off, perhaps this is because I run the machine off of a RPC? Therefore planing a board to 20mm each time and checking with calipers would leave me with a LOT of 20mm boards :P
Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Brandon,

Thanks for the detailed post. I am sure it would be helpful to others.

On shims, I wonder if 2 narrower shims would work better because they can be much longer.

As you said perhaps duplicating the felder method is best. Sorry I did not measure that dimension.

Imran

On Jul 24, 2021, at 11:47 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:

?David, as Imran mentioned, I just moved a KF700 with the 10' tables from near Austin, TX to St Louis, MO. I certainly learned a few things.

First, whether you are moving 100 or 1000 miles probably doesn't matter. The packing has to be the same. As mentioned, I used a drop deck trailer. I found a couple of local rental places that had them. I only paid $195 for a full week rental. You might call around and look for more options. I found a single axle 6 x 10 "Air-tow". That was a lot cheaper than the dual axle options and the 7000lb capacity was more than adequate.

My machine has the wheel kit and I was able to easily roll it right onto the trailer. Before I left home I made a wood deck out of 2x6s so that I had something to screw into the shipping brackets that Imran was kind enough to mail me. To keep the wood deck from shifting I blocked it against the sides and front of the trailer. I sliced another 2x6 at a 15¡ã angle to make a ramp to allow rolling the machine on top of the wood deck. I also brought along a bunch of 2x4 and 2x6 pieces to block the trailer. I ended up using them to set the saw on so that the weight was off the wheel kit which I didn't want to remove. A floor jack the owner had was very helpful for getting those blocks in place.

Once in place I soaked the cast iron table down in . It's basically Cosmoline. As Imran mentioned, I wedged the table ends using the 3D printed shims I'd made in advance. I had made 3 sets (34-35mm, 35-36, and 36-37), based on the dimensions Imran gave me for his saw. Turns out my saw was about 37.5mm so I used the smallest plastic shim and then added two pine wedges on top. I was very careful not to drive them in too hard. However, one set came loose during my 1000 mile trip, so make sure they're at least solidly in place. There's no great way to secure them. You might put some tape over them once they're in place to prevent them coming out during a bounce. Then I used as much 24" shrink wrap as I thought was reasonable to cover the table and wrap the saw. I paid extra attention to the ends of the sliding table. Once the shrink wrap was in place I installed 8 "Made in the USA" tie-down straps from the saw chassis to the tie-down rings on the trailer. I used the vertical studs under the sliding table mount and the cast iron table. Between those and the steel hold-down brackets, I felt very confident it wasn't going anywhere.?

Then I added the heavy-duty tarp of the whole assembly. That turned out to be the biggest hassle. I tried tying it down with 550 paracord and a few ratchet straps, but there was no great way to secure it. After the first couple miles on the highway it was obvious I needed to add a LOT more ratchet straps. I stopped at Home Depot and bought a pile of the $1.75 15' versions. I had 8 good ones on the saw and another 16 cheap ones holding the tarp tight from flapping. If you can just avoid moving in the rain, I recommend avoiding the tarp entirely.

The rest of the trip was pretty uneventful. The trailer was pretty bouncy and only after I arrived did I discover that the rental place had given me incomplete instructions. They told me to turn off the master power switch when I wasn't using the hydraulics. They failed to mention that also supplies power to the air suspension. So, I'm pretty sure that my ride was much rougher than it needed to be because the air suspension was not pumped up. If you get a drop deck with air suspension, make sure that you have the power on when in motion.

If I was doing it again, I would probably make some 3D printed shims that fit in the X-Roll bearings instead of under the table. That's what Felder shows in the manual. I haven't had a chance to measure and draw something for that. It should be a very simple square tapering in two dimensions. If you've got some time, I can measure mine, draw them up and send you the file, or even make a set and mail them to you.

I also have not completely reassembled the saw, so I'm not sure in what condition it arrived. I had to order a few straight edges and more dial indicators so that I can follow David Best's alignment procedure. Hopefully I didn't bend anything.

Let me know if you have any questions. This group is great! I can't thank Imran enough for his helpful posts before and after my trip.

-Brandon






<PXL_20210712_201034291.jpg>

<PXL_20210715_215105113.jpg>



<PXL_20210720_170226002.jpg>
Re: Facilitating remote start on single phase RL125

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks everyone. ?I¡¯m off to Anderson Ranch for a couple of weeks and then a major reconfiguration of the duct system in my shop. ?It will be a few weeks before I embark on this project¡­


On Jul 24, 2021, at 7:08 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Mike,

To answer your original question, the method shown (in the pdf) obviously works per the poster but it is not my preferred method. I used a potential relay to pull in the start caps in my RPC. As motor comes up to speed the voltage across potential relay drops and it cuts out. Same method is used in commercial control boxes for single phase motors.

Nothing wrong with what is recommended, it is just my preference.

Imran

On Jul 24, 2021, at 2:37 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Mike,

For single phase it is a bit more complicated. You can control it with a contactor meant to start single phase motor with start capacitor or a start/run capacitor. The contactor can be controlled with a remote. I did not read thru the pdf and it may be doing something similar.

Finally, the contactor switch can be controlled with a current relay if you want to do auto start. If all machines with DC are 3p then all you need is a single current sense relay costing about $20.

I have not done this personally but happy to help. We can communicate privately if you have any questions.

Imran

On Jul 24, 2021, at 8:22 AM, habacomike via <habacomike@...> wrote:

?It is single phase. ?Automatic control would be nice, but remote control will work¡­


Mike

On Jul 24, 2021, at 7:40 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Mike,

Is your RL125 single phase?

Do you have interest in auto control vs remote control?

Imran

On Jul 23, 2021, at 1:18 PM, habacomike via <habacomike@...> wrote:

?Is this still the best way to get this to work? ?I¡¯m in the process of fixing up my shop (for some reason, my spouse refers to it as a garage even though her assigned parking spot is in the driveway, at least in good weather).
Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades

 

Thanks David,?
Really appreciate the video.

Cheers
Eric
--
Eric J. Smith?
Trading as W.G. Joinery
ABN# 24 079 587 520
03 5784 9258
0411 264 272

PO BOX 353?
Broadford Victoria
3658 Australia
Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades

 

David, as Imran mentioned, I just moved a KF700 with the 10' tables from near Austin, TX to St Louis, MO. I certainly learned a few things.

First, whether you are moving 100 or 1000 miles probably doesn't matter. The packing has to be the same. As mentioned, I used a drop deck trailer. I found a couple of local rental places that had them. I only paid $195 for a full week rental. You might call around and look for more options. I found a single axle 6 x 10 "Air-tow". That was a lot cheaper than the dual axle options and the 7000lb capacity was more than adequate.

My machine has the wheel kit and I was able to easily roll it right onto the trailer. Before I left home I made a wood deck out of 2x6s so that I had something to screw into the shipping brackets that Imran was kind enough to mail me. To keep the wood deck from shifting I blocked it against the sides and front of the trailer. I sliced another 2x6 at a 15¡ã angle to make a ramp to allow rolling the machine on top of the wood deck. I also brought along a bunch of 2x4 and 2x6 pieces to block the trailer. I ended up using them to set the saw on so that the weight was off the wheel kit which I didn't want to remove. A floor jack the owner had was very helpful for getting those blocks in place.

Once in place I soaked the cast iron table down in . It's basically Cosmoline. As Imran mentioned, I wedged the table ends using the 3D printed shims I'd made in advance. I had made 3 sets (34-35mm, 35-36, and 36-37), based on the dimensions Imran gave me for his saw. Turns out my saw was about 37.5mm so I used the smallest plastic shim and then added two pine wedges on top. I was very careful not to drive them in too hard. However, one set came loose during my 1000 mile trip, so make sure they're at least solidly in place. There's no great way to secure them. You might put some tape over them once they're in place to prevent them coming out during a bounce. Then I used as much 24" shrink wrap as I thought was reasonable to cover the table and wrap the saw. I paid extra attention to the ends of the sliding table. Once the shrink wrap was in place I installed 8 "Made in the USA" tie-down straps from the saw chassis to the tie-down rings on the trailer. I used the vertical studs under the sliding table mount and the cast iron table. Between those and the steel hold-down brackets, I felt very confident it wasn't going anywhere.?

Then I added the heavy-duty tarp of the whole assembly. That turned out to be the biggest hassle. I tried tying it down with 550 paracord and a few ratchet straps, but there was no great way to secure it. After the first couple miles on the highway it was obvious I needed to add a LOT more ratchet straps. I stopped at Home Depot and bought a pile of the $1.75 15' versions. I had 8 good ones on the saw and another 16 cheap ones holding the tarp tight from flapping. If you can just avoid moving in the rain, I recommend avoiding the tarp entirely.

The rest of the trip was pretty uneventful. The trailer was pretty bouncy and only after I arrived did I discover that the rental place had given me incomplete instructions. They told me to turn off the master power switch when I wasn't using the hydraulics. They failed to mention that also supplies power to the air suspension. So, I'm pretty sure that my ride was much rougher than it needed to be because the air suspension was not pumped up. If you get a drop deck with air suspension, make sure that you have the power on when in motion.

If I was doing it again, I would probably make some 3D printed shims that fit in the X-Roll bearings instead of under the table. That's what Felder shows in the manual. I haven't had a chance to measure and draw something for that. It should be a very simple square tapering in two dimensions. If you've got some time, I can measure mine, draw them up and send you the file, or even make a set and mail them to you.

I also have not completely reassembled the saw, so I'm not sure in what condition it arrived. I had to order a few straight edges and more dial indicators so that I can follow David Best's alignment procedure. Hopefully I didn't bend anything.

Let me know if you have any questions. This group is great! I can't thank Imran enough for his helpful posts before and after my trip.

-Brandon
Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

At the request of my YouTube viewers, I decided to paste together a (somewhat long) video on aligning the sliding table on a Felder machine. ?You can view it here: ?


David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/





On Jul 21, 2021, at 8:22 PM, dsbarnes@... wrote:

Hi folks - I have just acquired a KF700S saw that needs to be transported about 100 miles, and was after some guidance on which parts are better off removed, and which left well alone or braced to prevent damage. I have had a good look through the messages here, and think I have most of it, but would welcome some additional advice. Direction right now is to remove the overhead guard, rip fence extension table, outrigger and feeder mount, but I'm not clear on the best way to deal with the slider. Looking through the parts that came with the saw when I went up to view it, I'm not seeing any of the wedges that Imran mentioned in his earlier post, although all of the pallet mtg brackets and other materials seem to be there. It's a 9ft slider (smaller than the one I wanted, but 9' longer that what I have now.....) ; I do have a spare set of hands and 2 HF lift tables, so my inclination would be to remove it to make sure nothing can get damaged; am I storing a whole lot of downstream pain by going this route? There is limited resource for fabricating anything once I arrive, and a pretty narrow time window to get everything loaded; I can make (wood) or 3d print some wedges if that is preferable to removing the slider, but need to have them ready to go before I leave.?
for the actual transportation part, based on the advice of the group I was originally going to rent a drop deck trailer;? the only trailer I found locally was $95 / day, and had been ridden hard and put away wet one too many times for me to want to trust it. As the weather is going to be variable, plan B is to rent a 17 ft? Uhaul truck and drag my wheel loader on its trailer behind it to lift the saw it into the truck - it's a bit of a road train but would get the job done efficiently. Plan B would be a 2 ton engine lift to get stuff up to the deck height, but it's likely to be a pretty messy undertaking? If anyone had any suggestions or better ideas, I would appreciate some insight from folks who have actually had to live through it
Thanks for all of the great conversations to date - I had originally reached out to the group a couple of years ago when I was looking for Felder shaper and J-P; eventually ended up with a T130, SAC 20: planer and SCM l'invincible jointer that are waiting for power from a PP in my basement - I have been absorbing since then, and learned a great deal by following the decades of experience and knowledge from the group here, as well as meeting a few of you in person Alpine workshops.
Thanks in advance for any assistance you cqan offer ofn the slider - it is greatly appreciated, and it will be nice to become a Felder owner :)
Best regards

David Barnes

Re: Facilitating remote start on single phase RL125

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Mike,

To answer your original question, the method shown (in the pdf) obviously works per the poster but it is not my preferred method. I used a potential relay to pull in the start caps in my RPC. As motor comes up to speed the voltage across potential relay drops and it cuts out. Same method is used in commercial control boxes for single phase motors.

Nothing wrong with what is recommended, it is just my preference.

Imran

On Jul 24, 2021, at 2:37 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Mike,

For single phase it is a bit more complicated. You can control it with a contactor meant to start single phase motor with start capacitor or a start/run capacitor. The contactor can be controlled with a remote. I did not read thru the pdf and it may be doing something similar.

Finally, the contactor switch can be controlled with a current relay if you want to do auto start. If all machines with DC are 3p then all you need is a single current sense relay costing about $20.

I have not done this personally but happy to help. We can communicate privately if you have any questions.

Imran

On Jul 24, 2021, at 8:22 AM, habacomike via groups.io <habacomike@...> wrote:

?It is single phase. ?Automatic control would be nice, but remote control will work¡­


Mike

On Jul 24, 2021, at 7:40 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Mike,

Is your RL125 single phase?

Do you have interest in auto control vs remote control?

Imran

On Jul 23, 2021, at 1:18 PM, habacomike via <habacomike@...> wrote:

?Is this still the best way to get this to work? ?I¡¯m in the process of fixing up my shop (for some reason, my spouse refers to it as a garage even though her assigned parking spot is in the driveway, at least in good weather).
Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades

 
Edited

Hi David Barnes,
?
Not sure what happened to the shim felder uses but Brandon Nickel just moved a saw with 3D printed shims. I have copied him on the response. Hopefully, he will chime in.
?
As David Best recommended if you are up for removing it that is a safer course and also make the bare chassis much more manageable for transportation.
?
If you have not come across instructions on removing the slider just ask here.
?
Imran?

On Jul 24, 2021, at 5:54 PM, dsbarnes@... wrote:

Hi folks - I have just acquired a KF700S saw that needs to be transported about 100 miles, and was after some guidance on which parts are better off removed, and which left well alone or braced to prevent damage. I have had a good look through the messages here, and think I have most of it, but would welcome some additional advice. Direction right now is to remove the overhead guard, rip fence extension table, outrigger and feeder mount, but I'm not clear on the best way to deal with the slider. Looking through the parts that came with the saw when I went up to view it, I'm not seeing any of the wedges that Imran mentioned in his earlier post, although all of the pallet mtg brackets and other materials seem to be there. It's a 9ft slider (smaller than the one I wanted, but 9' longer that what I have now.....) ; I do have a spare set of hands and 2 HF lift tables, so my inclination would be to remove it to make sure nothing can get damaged; am I storing a whole lot of downstream pain by going this route? There is limited resource for fabricating anything once I arrive, and a pretty narrow time window to get everything loaded; I can make (wood) or 3d print some wedges if that is preferable to removing the slider, but need to have them ready to go before I leave.?
for the actual transportation part, based on the advice of the group I was originally going to rent a drop deck trailer;? the only trailer I found locally was $95 / day, and had been ridden hard and put away wet one too many times for me to want to trust it. As the weather is going to be variable, plan B is to rent a 17 ft? Uhaul truck and drag my wheel loader on its trailer behind it to lift the saw it into the truck - it's a bit of a road train but would get the job done efficiently. Plan B would be a 2 ton engine lift to get stuff up to the deck height, but it's likely to be a pretty messy undertaking? If anyone had any suggestions or better ideas, I would appreciate some insight from folks who have actually had to live through it
Thanks for all of the great conversations to date - I had originally reached out to the group a couple of years ago when I was looking for Felder shaper and J-P; eventually ended up with a T130, SAC 20: planer and SCM l'invincible jointer that are waiting for power from a PP in my basement - I have been absorbing since then, and learned a great deal by following the decades of experience and knowledge from the group here, as well as meeting a few of you in person Alpine workshops.
Thanks in advance for any assistance you cqan offer ofn the slider - it is greatly appreciated, and it will be nice to become a Felder owner :)
Best regards

David Barnes
Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I recommend wedging the sliding table with hardwood wedges so the upper and lower extrusions don¡¯t rattle around during transport, and then removing the slider from the main chassis of the machine. ? Even if you leave it on the machine, you¡¯re going to have to realign the slider after it¡¯s delivered to your shop, and you risk damaging things getting it on/off the transport truck. ? Some guidance on dealing with the slider can be found here: ?? ?and here: ???


David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/





On Jul 21, 2021, at 8:22 PM, dsbarnes@... wrote:

Hi folks - I have just acquired a KF700S saw that needs to be transported about 100 miles, and was after some guidance on which parts are better off removed, and which left well alone or braced to prevent damage. I have had a good look through the messages here, and think I have most of it, but would welcome some additional advice. Direction right now is to remove the overhead guard, rip fence extension table, outrigger and feeder mount, but I'm not clear on the best way to deal with the slider. Looking through the parts that came with the saw when I went up to view it, I'm not seeing any of the wedges that Imran mentioned in his earlier post, although all of the pallet mtg brackets and other materials seem to be there. It's a 9ft slider (smaller than the one I wanted, but 9' longer that what I have now.....) ; I do have a spare set of hands and 2 HF lift tables, so my inclination would be to remove it to make sure nothing can get damaged; am I storing a whole lot of downstream pain by going this route? There is limited resource for fabricating anything once I arrive, and a pretty narrow time window to get everything loaded; I can make (wood) or 3d print some wedges if that is preferable to removing the slider, but need to have them ready to go before I leave.?
for the actual transportation part, based on the advice of the group I was originally going to rent a drop deck trailer;? the only trailer I found locally was $95 / day, and had been ridden hard and put away wet one too many times for me to want to trust it. As the weather is going to be variable, plan B is to rent a 17 ft? Uhaul truck and drag my wheel loader on its trailer behind it to lift the saw it into the truck - it's a bit of a road train but would get the job done efficiently. Plan B would be a 2 ton engine lift to get stuff up to the deck height, but it's likely to be a pretty messy undertaking? If anyone had any suggestions or better ideas, I would appreciate some insight from folks who have actually had to live through it
Thanks for all of the great conversations to date - I had originally reached out to the group a couple of years ago when I was looking for Felder shaper and J-P; eventually ended up with a T130, SAC 20: planer and SCM l'invincible jointer that are waiting for power from a PP in my basement - I have been absorbing since then, and learned a great deal by following the decades of experience and knowledge from the group here, as well as meeting a few of you in person Alpine workshops.
Thanks in advance for any assistance you cqan offer ofn the slider - it is greatly appreciated, and it will be nice to become a Felder owner :)
Best regards

David Barnes

Re: New F900z = frustration

 

Eric,?
? I agree, and am certain I'll have an Aigner sooner than later.
My mistake in ordering those bars. They're actually for Hammer or "older" Felder machines. I've since put them to use on another shaper in the shop, and now enjoying a bit better performance on it. Good idea if any others here have an off-brand that could use improvement. Since it has two styles of mounting plate sets, if you've got aluminum fences and a pinch of ingenuity, you could utilize them on another machine as I have.?

Jeff
Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades

 

Hi folks - I have just acquired a KF700S saw that needs to be transported about 100 miles, and was after some guidance on which parts are better off removed, and which left well alone or braced to prevent damage. I have had a good look through the messages here, and think I have most of it, but would welcome some additional advice. Direction right now is to remove the overhead guard, rip fence extension table, outrigger and feeder mount, but I'm not clear on the best way to deal with the slider. Looking through the parts that came with the saw when I went up to view it, I'm not seeing any of the wedges that Imran mentioned in his earlier post, although all of the pallet mtg brackets and other materials seem to be there. It's a 9ft slider (smaller than the one I wanted, but 9' longer that what I have now.....) ; I do have a spare set of hands and 2 HF lift tables, so my inclination would be to remove it to make sure nothing can get damaged; am I storing a whole lot of downstream pain by going this route? There is limited resource for fabricating anything once I arrive, and a pretty narrow time window to get everything loaded; I can make (wood) or 3d print some wedges if that is preferable to removing the slider, but need to have them ready to go before I leave.?
for the actual transportation part, based on the advice of the group I was originally going to rent a drop deck trailer;? the only trailer I found locally was $95 / day, and had been ridden hard and put away wet one too many times for me to want to trust it. As the weather is going to be variable, plan B is to rent a 17 ft? Uhaul truck and drag my wheel loader on its trailer behind it to lift the saw it into the truck - it's a bit of a road train but would get the job done efficiently. Plan B would be a 2 ton engine lift to get stuff up to the deck height, but it's likely to be a pretty messy undertaking? If anyone had any suggestions or better ideas, I would appreciate some insight from folks who have actually had to live through it
Thanks for all of the great conversations to date - I had originally reached out to the group a couple of years ago when I was looking for Felder shaper and J-P; eventually ended up with a T130, SAC 20: planer and SCM l'invincible jointer that are waiting for power from a PP in my basement - I have been absorbing since then, and learned a great deal by following the decades of experience and knowledge from the group here, as well as meeting a few of you in person Alpine workshops.
Thanks in advance for any assistance you cqan offer ofn the slider - it is greatly appreciated, and it will be nice to become a Felder owner :)
Best regards

David Barnes
Re: VFD

 

Good to know. Thanks for the info.?

I bought mine from crowman converters. Had a couple issues that I've fixed over the past couple of years. It's a 60hp unit and I don't leave it on all the time due to noise and heat in the summer, so I was trying to find an alternative since the saw is something I'll use on and off unlike my jointer, planer, sander...


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021, 7:23 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
Mark,

Short answer is don¡¯t do it. VFDs need to be connected directly to the motor. There can be switches in between but they can be left in on position. I use one on RL125 this way. RL switch remains on and VFD runs it.

However, running K940 saw on VFD is not plug and play. It can be done but I don¡¯t see a reason to do so when you already have 3 phase available thru converter. If the machine is under warranty then absolutely don¡¯t do it.

Secondly, if you have more than 5HP motor the VFD with single phase input start getting expensive - relatively speaking.

If you have a rotary phase converter, I understand where you are coming from. I did not let mine run for 15mins unused. It was still working fine after 15 yrs when I sold it.

If you have a phase perfect or like, leave it on while you are in shop. There is some noise when the fan comes on. On my older unit, fans are loud enough to be annoying when no machine is being used but what am I going to do. Not going back to RPC.

Just my $0.02

Imran

On Jul 21, 2021, at 4:40 PM, Mark Welle <mark@...> wrote:

?
Does anyone run and of their 3 phase machinery on a Variable Frequency Drive off of single phase power? I'm specifically asking for my Sliding Table Saw K940s. But am also curious for other machines. I currently run it off of a phase converter which works, but I try to avoid turning it on and off a bunch and was hoping a VFD would allow me to run the saw whenever without turning on the phase converter.
Re: Questions for users of ??Euro groomers??

 

David Best:

¡­I look forward to get better, faster and more consistent results after applying your methodology. Thanks again for the useful tips and information.

Regards,

J.
Re: Surfacer Issue - trapezoidal surface after a few passes #spiralcutterhead

 

Drew,
? ? ? ? ?Your out feed table looks like it is off. I had exactly the problem that you describe. I got the usual blow iff from the local agent, " impossible it is laser set etc." with my C3-31. But when it got as far as I wouldn't use it anymore, as it destroyed so many pieces of hardwood, then I felt that there was nothing to lose.

I bought a set of feeler gauges and used a spirit level for a straight edge, then recorded with chalk on the outfield table each reading that I got, within five minutes there was an obvious pattern that the out feed table was not coplanar to the in-feed and there was a very definite bias over both the length and width of the out feed.

The manual is not great at instructing you how best to proceed and there are ?couple of Allen screws and a bolt or two( one which I sheared) not shown that you have to figure out for yourself.

However, it is very doable and David Best's instructions were my guide as to how to set the tables. Last time I had the Felder tech to service the machine he said that he wouldn't touch it as he couldn't improve on it.

In the manual they refer to using a little piece of graduated wood to check that the blades are just touching it when you turn the cylinder by hand and drag the graduated piece of ?timber forward. That might be a good place to start, to assess if your tables are not coplanar.

Good luck.

Trevor Lusty
Ireland
Re: Questions for users of ??Euro groomers??

 

On 23/07/2021 02:40, David Luckensmeyer wrote:
This means the only thing keeping the blades or tooling from spinning is the lateral clamping force of the arbor flange, same as for the shaper spindle. This has always worked for me which begs the question whether the pins (on saws) are necessary at all? Maybe for giant saw blades?

They are there to prevent slipping when the electronic motor brake is applied. Slipping or even worse unscrewing of the arbor flange/friction welding might not be what you are after. :-)


Regards,


Jonathan
Re: Facilitating remote start on single phase RL125

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Mike,

For single phase it is a bit more complicated. You can control it with a contactor meant to start single phase motor with start capacitor or a start/run capacitor. The contactor can be controlled with a remote. I did not read thru the pdf and it may be doing something similar.

Finally, the contactor switch can be controlled with a current relay if you want to do auto start. If all machines with DC are 3p then all you need is a single current sense relay costing about $20.

I have not done this personally but happy to help. We can communicate privately if you have any questions.

Imran

On Jul 24, 2021, at 8:22 AM, habacomike via groups.io <habacomike@...> wrote:

?It is single phase. ?Automatic control would be nice, but remote control will work¡­


Mike

On Jul 24, 2021, at 7:40 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Mike,

Is your RL125 single phase?

Do you have interest in auto control vs remote control?

Imran

On Jul 23, 2021, at 1:18 PM, habacomike via <habacomike@...> wrote:

?Is this still the best way to get this to work? ?I¡¯m in the process of fixing up my shop (for some reason, my spouse refers to it as a garage even though her assigned parking spot is in the driveway, at least in good weather).
Re: planer power drive height adjustment?

 

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Ameer,

Thanks for sharing the calibration method. I would just like to add that Felder recommends planning a board thicker than 20mm. Incrementally approach 20mm thickness while verifying with calipers.

Placing a board will add error depending upon what part of cutterhead makes contact with the board. There may also be variation between blades, etc.

Imran

On Jul 24, 2021, at 9:23 AM, Ameer N. <highentropy@...> wrote:

?I have an AD-741, this is how mine works:

Powering off the machine and then holding the reset button while you turn the machine on is how you change the readout from mm to inches.
When you hold the reset button while the unit is powered on already the digital readout is reset to 20.0mm or 0.785in (whichever the machine is set to display at the time).
To calibrate raise the bed and squeeze a 20mm piece between the bed and the rollers, then hold the reset button.

I hope that helps?

-Ameer

Re: planer power drive height adjustment?

 

I have an AD-741, this is how mine works:

Powering off the machine and then holding the reset button while you turn the machine on is how you change the readout from mm to inches.
When you hold the reset button while the unit is powered on already the digital readout is reset to 20.0mm or 0.785in (whichever the machine is set to display at the time).
To calibrate raise the bed and squeeze a 20mm piece between the bed and the rollers, then hold the reset button.

I hope that helps?

-Ameer
Re: Radial Drill Press purchase

 

The HP of a motor is reduced proportionally to the motor speed reduction by VFD.? ?So if you're running the motor at half its design speed, you have half the HP.?

With mechanical speed reduction, you have all the motor power.? ?So it you change the belt to a pulley combination that results in the spindle turning at half the motor speed, all the motor's power is delivered to the spindle.

This is why VFD's are not simply drop-in replacements for mechanical variable speed transmission systems.? ?If ones needs the same low-rpm power then one needs to increase the motor size.? For example, to get the same HP at 20% speed, you need a motor 5 times larger.?

This particular drill press head (which was used on dozens of models) had a small motor because it's a lightweight spindle intended for light work.? It were marketed as "up to 1/2" drill in cast iron", but realistically that was a stretch. But it's fine for most woodworking.

So the simple and practical answer for you is simply to change the belt to the appropriate pulley when you need more power.

??
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