Re: Setting Hammer K3 Toe Out
#hammer
Thank you for the reply. I've been using a bit of tension from the nuts to get to my final height so I'm glad you pointed out not to do that. Is there a rule of thumb for how many thousandths I should account for when I'm tightening down the top nuts?
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Re: Just another used Felder thread
Congrats on your new (old) machine.?
I own a couple of BF6 machines recently purchased, neither of them have any guards on the planer, which I find odd to say the least. Is there some way to contact Marlowe about those parts?
thanks,
Greg
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Re: Setting Hammer K3 Toe Out
#hammer
I've had my table off a couple of times.? It can be very very
easy? but? it can also be? a monster. My forst time was the
monster. I didn't know what to do.
Technically? it is easy peasy.
Loosen all the nuts on those six standbolts under the carriage.?
Using the bootom nuts only? bring the table to the height,? toe,
and angle you want.
then?? by hand start snugging the upper nuts down.? Use your
fingers.
Leep an indicator on a movable base handy? or a decent straight
edge. to check your progress.? The table will move as you snug the
upper nuts down. So it's a wee bit fiddly.
DONT EVER try to use the power of the nuts? to force the
carriage.? That way lies disaster.? You can wreck your? slider
that way.?? The trick is finesse not force.
When it all looks great break out a wrench and snug them? a
little each? as you check the table position and angle? work your
way around and? bob's her uncle? you'll have 'r dun
On 6/19/21 2:49 AM, BaboonFury wrote:
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I have the Hammer K3 Winner Comfort and have been tinkering with
adjusting the slider height relative to the cast iron table as
well as the toe out of the slider. I've now messed up twice where
I'd get the toe out where I want to be and in the process of
adjusting the height and tightening the slider into place I'm
shifting the toe out from where I had originally set it. I have
six nut/bolt adjustment points on my slider and when i'm adjusting
the toe out I'm leaving one nut/bolt fixed and adjusting the
others. Is there a bolt tightening sequence I should be following
to avoid this? Any thoughts here are greatly appreciated.
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Re: Bandsaw Power Feeders - in practice
I don't want the feeder to be too fast, but bandsaws are so finicky at the wider boards when trying to maintain tolerance. Yes, the "rated" lowest speed of 3.3fpm measured in the ballpark?of my real-life check here around 2.5fpm using some "close enough" calculations, so around 3fpm is a good figure.
Am I crazy? Doing something wrong? When I watch youtubers do hand feed resawing wide boards for fine-finish cuts, they are often just creeping along.
I'll take your vote for VFD manipulation. If I still have enough available torque and can slow down motor 50%, I bet I wouldn't be complaining, but it seems drastic and a thoughtfully designed power feeder would?already have the range accounted for. But like many things, I always?seem to push the design envelope limits any project I take on, it's my curse.
Brett, ? ShopGear has it's speed?as:
*Similar to the AF19N Resaw Feeder with a larger motor, roller, and variable speeds. - Variable Speed - 3.3 - 98.4 FPM
3.3 FPM is too fast?? Did you get the 3ph version?? ?Your thought on putting in on a VFD would be the easiest to slow it down even further
Dave Davies
All,?
I've mounted a Comatic AF110N to a Laguna (ACM) 24" (600mm) x24" bandsaw.?
The problem is it seems to feed too fast for most of the woods I actually want to use on a power feed. I'm talking about long boards?usually full widths 6"+ for stock preparation and veneer slicing. The blades are getting pushed back with excess force to the guide blocks rather than a smooth, tuned cut. When hand?feeding the "natural feeling" is nearly always substantially slower than the power feeder can provide and I get great results but it's slow pace. Anyone else have issue with power feeder speeds not going slow enough?
Attempted solutions: 1. Tried a variety of blades, widths, thicknesses, kerfs, pitches, tooth conffigurations, haven't found?one that seems "better" other than a sharp, new blade with resaw design variables, but not a lot of difference. 2. Replaced guide blocks from rollers to full OEM Laguna Ceramic - they are holding strong and not moving.
Considered solutions: 1. Increase blade speed. REalizing that sheaving-up may also result in the need to add motor horsepower (currently 5hp 1847TC frame)
2. Put the power feeder on voltage/frequency regulation to slow it down beyond the mechanical?reduction already bottomed out
3. Get some help from the experts. (This is the cheapest and easiest and why I'm here).
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Bandsaw Power Feeders - in practice
Brett, ? ShopGear has it's speed?as:
*Similar to the AF19N Resaw Feeder with a larger motor, roller, and variable speeds. - Variable Speed - 3.3 - 98.4 FPM
3.3 FPM is too fast?? Did you get the 3ph version?? ?Your thought on putting in on a VFD would be the easiest to slow it down even further
Dave Davies
All,?
I've mounted a Comatic AF110N to a Laguna (ACM) 24" (600mm) x24" bandsaw.?
The problem is it seems to feed too fast for most of the woods I actually want to use on a power feed. I'm talking about long boards?usually full widths 6"+ for stock preparation and veneer slicing. The blades are getting pushed back with excess force to the guide blocks rather than a smooth, tuned cut. When hand?feeding the "natural feeling" is nearly always substantially slower than the power feeder can provide and I get great results but it's slow pace. Anyone else have issue with power feeder speeds not going slow enough?
Attempted solutions: 1. Tried a variety of blades, widths, thicknesses, kerfs, pitches, tooth conffigurations, haven't found?one that seems "better" other than a sharp, new blade with resaw design variables, but not a lot of difference. 2. Replaced guide blocks from rollers to full OEM Laguna Ceramic - they are holding strong and not moving.
Considered solutions: 1. Increase blade speed. REalizing that sheaving-up may also result in the need to add motor horsepower (currently 5hp 1847TC frame)
2. Put the power feeder on voltage/frequency regulation to slow it down beyond the mechanical?reduction already bottomed out
3. Get some help from the experts. (This is the cheapest and easiest and why I'm here).
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Bandsaw Power Feeders - in practice
All,?
I've mounted a Comatic AF110N to a Laguna (ACM) 24" (600mm) x24" bandsaw.?
The problem is it seems to feed too fast for most of the woods I actually want to use on a power feed. I'm talking about long boards?usually full widths 6"+ for stock preparation and veneer slicing. The blades are getting pushed back with excess force to the guide blocks rather than a smooth, tuned cut. When hand?feeding the "natural feeling" is nearly always substantially slower than the power feeder can provide and I get great results but it's slow pace. Anyone else have issue with power feeder speeds not going slow enough?
Attempted solutions: 1. Tried a variety of blades, widths, thicknesses, kerfs, pitches, tooth conffigurations, haven't found?one that seems "better" other than a sharp, new blade with resaw design variables, but not a lot of difference. 2. Replaced guide blocks from rollers to full OEM Laguna Ceramic - they are holding strong and not moving.
Considered solutions: 1. Increase blade speed. REalizing that sheaving-up may also result in the need to add motor horsepower (currently 5hp 1847TC frame)
2. Put the power feeder on voltage/frequency regulation to slow it down beyond the mechanical?reduction already bottomed out
3. Get some help from the experts. (This is the cheapest and easiest and why I'm here).
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
Joel,
?The photo of the FB600 bandsaw is from my New Orleans shop.
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On Jun 19, 2021, at 10:17 AM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
?Some pictures from my trip. ?Seeing Joe's shop motivated me to get a Fritz Franz, make shaper tooling storage, get a larger bandsaw with a Comatic, get an Omga etc. ?As a bonus, I learned things about equipment other than the shaper also. ?
<CurvedonT12.jpg> <Co-Matic 2 Joe NO.JPG> <IMG_1966.JPG> <IMG_1965.JPG> <IMG_1834.JPG> <IMG_1853.JPG> <IMG_1866.JPG> <IMG_1869.JPG> <IMG_1905.JPG> <IMG_1915.JPG> <IMG_1916.JPG> <IMG_1919.JPG>
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
Some pictures from my trip. ?Seeing Joe's shop motivated me to get a Fritz Franz, make shaper tooling storage, get a larger bandsaw with a Comatic, get an Omga etc. ?As a bonus, I learned things about equipment other than the shaper also. ?
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
I previously attended this workshop. ?Excellent experience. ?Highly recommended. ?I went before I purchased my shaper, and I think this is as useful for someone wanting to buy a shaper as it is for someone who owns one. ?The 2 shapers were both Martin products, and I then ended up with a used T-12. ?
Now that I have had my shaper for several years, I was thinking about going back. ?One thing I would personally value in a course for the shaper I have is training on using the programming features of my T-12 so I can better understand what I am seeing on the screens when I enter presets. ?I am not sure if I would get that at this course as that is very machine specific.?
When you go, you are all at the same nice hotel in beautiful surroundings in a nice small town. ?Very relaxing. ?
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Re: Just another used Felder thread
Update. Another guy bought the BF6 and decided he needed standalone machines.
Just bought it for $3200 plus labor helping him set up a website for his business.
Took a few years, but I am now officially a Felder owner. Woot!
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
?Joe Kurtz, I don't know of anything quite like this course on the east coast, but there is a "Customer in Residence" workshop available at Thoma Moser in Auburn, ME. There, you work on your choice of what they have in their catalog and build it alongside a master crafter. They keep beginners well away from the machines?but will let you use them?if they see you have competency.?
What is different at the Moser program is that you'll get a fine piece of furniture in the end, and you'll get all kinds of tips on how to fix mistakes. The Alpine workshop is invaluable if you want to master the shaper - I know of nothing similar. BR Eric Janson
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
Yes, it's well worth it. Ultimate Joe is the perfect instructor- knowledgeable, tireless and patient. The shop has everything you can think of, plus a bit more that you couldn't think of. Greg G is there to lend expert support,?and no doubt you'll want?to take?advantage of?the?student discount on some Rangate cutters. Ouray is a destination in its own right, with raw beauty, great hiking and excellent restaurants, plus interesting sites nearby for partners who come along for the ride. Be advised, if you are coming by car from the east, that Route 50 closes weekdays for many hours per day for canyon construction. The detour on Rte 92 through Hotchkiss adds about 1h20m but offers some spectacular scenery along the way. BTW, Joe is also a Martin rep and can source Aigner fences, too.? You and your money will soon be parted - but you'll be happy about it ;-) Cheers and good luck on the course Eric Janson
On Sat, Jun 19, 2021 at 7:52 AM James Runde < jrunde@...> wrote: Stan, Jay On Sat, Jun 19, 2021 at 6:44 AM Stan Blaszczyk < blaszcsj@...> wrote: How much is the class?
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
These workshops look compelling. I could learn a bunch about my KF700 as well as the joinery involded in making doors and windows. Using that knowldge immediarely for joinery in furinture but also down the road if i dabble in doors and windows.
Anything ever on the East Coast similar to this?
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Re: Potential new Felder owner
I recently purchased a new crown 20x48 pallet jack delivered to my shop for 469.99. It¡¯s going to solve mobility issues for all my items.
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On Jun 19, 2021, at 06:25, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Yes it is standard, also forgot to add the ad941 price was for the single phase silent cutter head and the 951 3p silent cutter head, both without shipping which would have added $250 On Jun 19, 2021, at 9:22 AM, jhinman1911@... wrote:
?Ms. Rogers in West Sacramento says the folding cutter head guard is standard in the 9-series machines. That is not clear from the web site.
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Ebay: New Felder 3 Speed 1.25¡± Shaper Spindle $400
Sharing in case someone needs one in a hurry. If you need one I would still check with Felder to confirm if it is indeed out of stock. It is listed at $550 though.
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Re: Setting Hammer K3 Toe Out
#hammer
Hi BaboonFury
I have attached a Hammer setup manual and also the portion on adjustments.
I hope that helps.
BuiltFixed
https://youtube.com/channel/UC7rAShE2Mu_skUa3suYgyOg
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
It has been on my wishlist since I got my KF700.? The joinery workshop is 1795 per website (https://alpineworkshops.com/contact/schedule.html) and from teh feedback I have heard it is well worth the money.?
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Re: Anybody else attending Alpine Workshop Advanced Joinery class in September?
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Mark Foster
imran
BuiltFixed