Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Thanks Brian, this is very helpful. I apologize for rehashing an old subject. I will start with a search next time.?
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Thanks Mark, you have confirmed for me that I am using the saw properly. I am rebuilding my shop (original was lost in a 2017 California wildfire) and am building cabinets. I, too, don't normally work with sheet goods and the switch location, while not ideal, is workable for smaller furniture type parts.?
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Thanks Imran, I see that I am using the machine correctly and that a modification is needed to move the switch to a more convenient?location.?
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Re: Red Grandis for patio furniture
Thanks Michael. It is hard to keep up with finish choices. This one seems to focus on oily woods but probably works even better on other woods. Thanks for sharing.
Imran
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On May 28, 2021, at 11:23 AM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote: ? Thanks Imran. ?I used Epifanes and followed the directions on the can. ?It flows out really well. ?I used a small roller for the final coat on the top to make sure I had even distribution. ?
Michael
Hi Michael,
Very nice. What finish did you use?
Imran ?I went ahead with the Red Grandis for the patio furniture and wanted to give some feedback for anyone interested in using it in the future. ?It is a pleasant wood to work with as it machines well and cleanly. ?There was quite a difference in character between the boards with some being much deeper color with a corresponding increase in density. It absorbs finish well and to my mind is quite attractive. ?I put on some plastic feet to keep it off the ground. ?Here is a pic so you can see how it came out. ?I will update after a while to review its durability. Michael <9B0F4BA9-B9C9-4C17-B6AB-8FF030E3EABA.heic> ?
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Re: Red Grandis for patio furniture
Thanks Imran. ?I used Epifanes and followed the directions on the can. ?It flows out really well. ?I used a small roller for the final coat on the top to make sure I had even distribution. ?
Michael
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Hi Michael,
Very nice. What finish did you use?
Imran ?I went ahead with the Red Grandis for the patio furniture and wanted to give some feedback for anyone interested in using it in the future. ?It is a pleasant wood to work with as it machines well and cleanly. ?There was quite a difference in character between the boards with some being much deeper color with a corresponding increase in density. It absorbs finish well and to my mind is quite attractive. ?I put on some plastic feet to keep it off the ground. ?Here is a pic so you can see how it came out. ?I will update after a while to review its durability. Michael <9B0F4BA9-B9C9-4C17-B6AB-8FF030E3EABA.heic> ?
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Re: Red Grandis for patio furniture
Hi Michael,
Very nice. What finish did you use?
Imran
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Show quoted text
On May 28, 2021, at 11:08 AM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote: ?I went ahead with the Red Grandis for the patio furniture and wanted to give some feedback for anyone interested in using it in the future. ?It is a pleasant wood to work with as it machines well and cleanly. ?There was quite a difference in character between the boards with some being much deeper color with a corresponding increase in density. It absorbs finish well and to my mind is quite attractive. ?I put on some plastic feet to keep it off the ground. ?Here is a pic so you can see how it came out. ?I will update after a while to review its durability. Michael <9B0F4BA9-B9C9-4C17-B6AB-8FF030E3EABA.heic> ?
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Re: Red Grandis for patio furniture
I went ahead with the Red Grandis for the patio furniture and wanted to give some feedback for anyone interested in using it in the future. ?It is a pleasant wood to work with as it machines well and cleanly. ?There was quite a difference in character between the boards with some being much deeper color with a corresponding increase in density. It absorbs finish well and to my mind is quite attractive. ?I put on some plastic feet to keep it off the ground. ?Here is a pic so you can see how it came out. ?I will update after a while to review its durability. Michael  ?
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Martin T26 - slider on side - Utah
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Hello All,
In past years I've read many times about fellows from our group here arranging factory tours of Felder plant.
I will be in Austria and basically in Tyrol in Seefeld for a few days which is very close to Hall in Tirol. ??
Has anyone recently been there and how do you go about arranging a tour of the plant. ?Years ago when Hans was here in the US I'm sure it would have been easy to call him and he would get it done for you. ?It's been a few years since I was at the Delaware HQ, I no longer know anyone there these days.
Thanks for reading hopefully someone can help out
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Common problem, solved many years ago by adding a pendant with start/stop buttons in it.
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I just cut the first 4¡¯ x 8¡¯ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8¡¯ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3¡¯ and 5¡¯ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can¡¯t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don¡¯t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
This is pretty common on most sliders, you turn the saw on first then load then cut. This is the way I did it for many years in my business and when I worked for others it is only with my ne k940 that I ponied up the $700ish for the on off on the end of slide which I never use¡old habits die hard¡
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On May 28, 2021, at 7:35 AM, Steve Wurster <steven.m.wurster@...> wrote:
?There's only one Power On switch on the Hammer, and it is indeed located on the "wrong" side of the blade.? If you're cutting a large sheet of plywood, or anything else that gets in the way of you leaning over the sliding table to turn on the saw, then your only option really is to crawl under the table as you said.? Walking around the front of the sliding table is also an option, but depending on the size of the piece you're trying to cut you might still have to crawl under the piece to get to the switch.? I don't do a whole lot of work with large plywood sheets, so 99% of the time I am able to just lean over the sliding table to turn on the saw.
There is technically a second Power Off switch on the side of course: the "emergency" stop switch, which I've only used a couple times.
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
There's only one Power On switch on the Hammer, and it is indeed located on the "wrong" side of the blade.? If you're cutting a large sheet of plywood, or anything else that gets in the way of you leaning over the sliding table to turn on the saw, then your only option really is to crawl under the table as you said.? Walking around the front of the sliding table is also an option, but depending on the size of the piece you're trying to cut you might still have to crawl under the piece to get to the switch.? I don't do a whole lot of work with large plywood sheets, so 99% of the time I am able to just lean over the sliding table to turn on the saw.
There is technically a second Power Off switch on the side of course: the "emergency" stop switch, which I've only used a couple times.
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Hi Kevin,
I am not familiar with hammer but if interested, I am sure you can figure out something like I did.
Imran
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On May 28, 2021, at 12:41 AM, Kevin Wells <kjwells54@...> wrote: ?I just cut the first 4¡¯ x 8¡¯ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8¡¯ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3¡¯ and 5¡¯ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can¡¯t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don¡¯t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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I just cut the first 4¡¯ x 8¡¯ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8¡¯ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3¡¯ and 5¡¯ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can¡¯t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don¡¯t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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Re: WTB: Used combo machine
#wanted
908 399 8133 speak to? David Fine
He has one? in his inventory? I don't know how much of it is
there? It? is under a lot of other stuff
On 5/26/21 3:03 PM, Scatterplot wrote:
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Hi all, I'm moving to a smaller shop in a few months, and am
interested in getting a combination machine to replace my standard
table saw. It doesn't look like used combo machines come up very
often. I've just found two that got sold out from under me.
Apparently I was about a week late to one that'd been for sale for
around 6 months!
Anyway, I'm mainly interested in the smaller combo machines (5'
slider or so) due to space and budget constraints, but I'm
interested in talking to you if you have one. I'm located in
central TN but am willing to work with you if you're OK with
freight- or if you're within a few hundred miles, I can rent a
trailer and get it in person.
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Re: WTB: Used combo machine
#wanted
I know of a person in the St. Louis area who is looking to sell his combo.? I don't know the particulars, but it might be within your parameters.? Message me and I'll look into getting you two in touch.
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Thanks for the video. This product was a long time coming, I'm glad someone finally invented a useful?universal?adapter for all of the myriad dust collector ports.
On Thu, May 27, 2021 at 10:32 AM Robert Johnson < woodewe@...> wrote: Just watched a video on FastCap's Uni-Vac hose adapter that may be useful in connecting a 2.25" standard vac hose to small ports.? For example the older over blade dust collector that attached to the splitter.? I've not tried it, but if it can hold on with the weight of the large hose, it could be useful.? Not associated with FastCap.
see:
-Bob
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Just watched a video on FastCap's Uni-Vac hose adapter that may be useful in connecting a 2.25" standard vac hose to small ports.? For example the older over blade dust collector that attached to the splitter.? I've not tried it, but if it can hold on with the weight of the large hose, it could be useful.? Not associated with FastCap.
see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7Kga7ahy8E
-Bob
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Re: replacing a sliding table saw with a CNC router
I¡¯m far from an expert, but using downcut/compression bits has all but eliminated tear out for me. I can second that you are still going to have to do some significant sanding on edge profiles after cutting them out. ?
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Hi all, I'm moving to a smaller shop in a few months, and am interested in getting a combination machine to replace my standard table saw. It doesn't look like used combo machines come up very often. I've just found two that got sold out from under me. Apparently I was about a week late to one that'd been for sale for around 6 months!
Anyway, I'm mainly interested in the smaller combo machines (5' slider or so) due to space and budget constraints, but I'm interested in talking to you if you have one. I'm located in central TN but am willing to work with you if you're OK with freight- or if you're within a few hundred miles, I can rent a trailer and get it in person.
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Kevin Wells
imran
Ben