There's only one Power On switch on the Hammer, and it is indeed located on the "wrong" side of the blade.? If you're cutting a large sheet of plywood, or anything else that gets in the way of you leaning over the sliding table to turn on the saw, then your only option really is to crawl under the table as you said.? Walking around the front of the sliding table is also an option, but depending on the size of the piece you're trying to cut you might still have to crawl under the piece to get to the switch.? I don't do a whole lot of work with large plywood sheets, so 99% of the time I am able to just lean over the sliding table to turn on the saw.

There is technically a second Power Off switch on the side of course: the "emergency" stop switch, which I've only used a couple times.

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I just cut the first 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8’ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3’ and 5’ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can’t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don’t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?

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908 399 8133 speak to? David Fine

He has one? in his inventory? I don't know how much of it is there? It? is under a lot of other stuff

I know of a person in the St. Louis area who is looking to sell his combo.? I don't know the particulars, but it might be within your parameters.? Message me and I'll look into getting you two in touch.

--

Just watched a video on FastCap's Uni-Vac hose adapter that may be useful in connecting a 2.25" standard vac hose to small ports.? For example the older over blade dust collector that attached to the splitter.? I've not tried it, but if it can hold on with the weight of the large hose, it could be useful.? Not associated with FastCap.
see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7Kga7ahy8E


-Bob

I’m far from an expert, but using downcut/compression bits has all but eliminated tear out for me. I can second that you are still going to have to do some significant sanding on edge profiles after cutting them out. ?

Hi all, I'm moving to a smaller shop in a few months, and am interested in getting a combination machine to replace my standard table saw. It doesn't look like used combo machines come up very often. I've just found two that got sold out from under me. Apparently I was about a week late to one that'd been for sale for around 6 months!

Anyway, I'm mainly interested in the smaller combo machines (5' slider or so) due to space and budget constraints, but I'm interested in talking to you if you have one. I'm located in central TN but am willing to work with you if you're OK with freight- or if you're within a few hundred miles, I can rent a trailer and get it in person.

On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 01:51 PM, Jeff Roltgen wrote:

Sorry for the rambling

Do not be sorry, I am great you take times to share your experience to help others.

Bill

You got it- instead of cutting all the way through, stop ~ 1/8" shy. For instance,1.75" stock set to about 1.6" depth of cut, etc. Handheld router with .25" diameter bottom bearing router bit after removing from CNC table and flipping workpiece upside-down.?
Sorry for the rambling - just trying to impart almost 10 years CNC experience and enthusiasm in 10 sentences(!)

Jeff

I received mine 2-3 weeks ago. It’s a great unit overall. My only issue with it was the mitre gauge had a slight bow in it and is super over engineered and kind of a pain to set up. ?

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On Wed, May 12, 2021 at 08:04 AM, Bill James wrote:

Are you sure:



Price for a fat 300 equivalent on Ruwi web site seems to be 1,500 Euro + Tax + Shipping. Looks like the same price as what is quoted on the us felder shop website with the top at $400 ($2,000 total) if you get it from any of their warehouses in the US. Shipping From Germany to any east ports in the USA is not cheap.

My pricing was based on buying the Ruwi in Europe and got it ships to the USA (east coast) vs buying it on Felder online shop for the USA and picking it up in one of their warehouses in the USA.
Apologize if your pricing was for Australia or any other country than the USA (including Canada).

Bill

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Hey Lucky,?

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More information please.

im in australia
felder fat 300 is over 4k
i got my ruwi (identical) for $1950
cheers

On Tue, May 25, 2021 at 01:32 PM, Jeff Roltgen wrote:

simply leave hardwoods with that 1/8" skin completely around the parts, or things just get away from you on the CNC table.?

Follow up is flush-trimming to release parts

Jeff,

Thanks for your feedback,

I have hard time to visualize this method. Are you leaving 1/8" at the bottom of your cuts and then use a manual router to flush trim the piece on the CNC? Sorry if my question looks stupid.

Bill

For hardwoods, I use the one foot area past the 48" "Y" axis, as I've got a 60" wide table. It has it's own separate vacuum zone, which is seldom used, hence the sacrifice. Plywood scrap screwed (with recesses) to main spoilboard in this area. Blank to be milled is 2" over length on each end, giving ample room for deeply countersunk screws to go into this supplementary spoilboard, staying outside planned toolpath zone. This is usually done for chair parts, with typical blank size at 8x42. On some more involved pieces, I may pause half-way through cutting to add a screw in a central area that cutting is complete and I know will not be in the spinning bit's path for remainder of the part file. This is necessary occasionally when the middle section is down to the 1/8" thickness left after cutting and looseness is introduced as the bit is working it's way around 8/4 stock. I've stopped using tabs and simply leave hardwoods with that 1/8" skin completely around the parts, or things just get away from you on the CNC table. All mortising that can be done on top face is done prior to cutout toolpath on the cnc as well.

Follow up is flush-trimming to release parts, proceeding to sanding stage. Realize, at this point the CNC has eliminated tracing, band-sawing, template making and pattern routing, but it still needs every bit of sanding. Modern bits can do a good job- for 8/4, my go to is a $75 1/2" spiral up-cut chipbreaker, but still, a 1/2" bit doesn't compare to a clean edge coming off a spiral head jointer, and tear out still can pop up fairly regularly.?
It has been mentioned that you can expect radius corners inside right angles, but you also need to deliberately draft the inverse on outside corners - think of it as adding an ear at a 90 degree or more acute angles of turn as bit shifts from "ripping" direction to cross cutting. Took more than a few attempts to figure out that strategy for taming tear-out on those types of cross-cuts. Again, highest quality top dollar bits are still not going to give you a finish-ready surface by any means.?
?
That's just my strategy. Can't imagine being stuck with all this for simply ripping/crosscutting straight stock, not to mention the bowing and twisting that can occur with even the most innocent looking slabs of lumber. Naturally, sheet goods processing is quite a breeze on cnc by comparison.?

FWIW: I immediately built Gary C's black box vac about 10 years ago when I first got the cnc as he (fortunately) had just shared his plans for it on the Shopbot forum around that time. Noisy - sure, but it's still working just fine after all these years. Makes the shop nice and toasty in the cold winter months as it howls away, and for some reason, I just cannot get over my fascination with the magic of vacuum. Don't get me started on using it for veneering and curved work...


jeff?