Sorry just noted you had pics. I had condensation in the box of my bandsaw as well, are you sure it is oil. Anyhow, the one that is bad is the gray one. Blue one may be okay but it is best to replace both.
Imran?
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On Apr 9, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Sal Cangialosi <cangialosis@...> wrote: ?I opened the electrical box under the bandsaw table and found the start capacitor leaking oil . I will replace it and hopefully that is the only issue. Any recommendations on where to purchase a quality replacement? Also, how long for it to discharge when the saw is sitting unplugged? Thanks, Sal
<1.jpg> <2.jpg> <3.jpg> <4.jpg>
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I bought mine from mouser electronics. Under $26 total. As for removing the cap, it probably is not holding any charge but to be safe, following is what I would do.
With insulated handle cutter/dike cut one wire of the cap at a time insuring that the dike does not touch anything else and you yourself stay isolated. Also, when cutting the wire make sure that the cut wire on the cap side does not flail around and hit something grounded. ?Sounds like disarming a bomb. We were taught to always discharge the cap but that requires a resistor. Not sure you have one handy.
So proceed on your own risk but what I suggested above I would personally have no issue following.
Imran
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On Apr 9, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Sal Cangialosi <cangialosis@...> wrote: ?I opened the electrical box under the bandsaw table and found the start capacitor leaking oil . I will replace it and hopefully that is the only issue. Any recommendations on where to purchase a quality replacement? Also, how long for it to discharge when the saw is sitting unplugged? Thanks, Sal
<1.jpg> <2.jpg> <3.jpg> <4.jpg>
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I bought a discontinued Fein model on sale about 8 years ago to remodel a bathroom. I probably used it for a total of ten minutes to trim out door molding. It sat in its storage bag for about the next seven years. Last January, before Covid hit I started to clean up an old 2000+ sq. ft. storage structure. They had used concrete block for the walls, but used salvaged lumber during WWII to build the ceiling and roof. The fiberboard ceiling was falling in where the roof had leaked, and a lot of structural lumber had to be replaced, I had a vultures nest in the attic along with all sorts of other vermin, rats and snakes among them. Someone had replaced the roof prior to my acquiring the property, thank goodness. But they left the mess inside. I put wire mesh over all the eave openings (over 150) to keep the critters at bay. We cleaned out the mess and I had a decent storage facility, except for the dust and pollen that came thru the openings.
I decided to use the cheapest 3/8¡± plywood for the ceiling. The ceiling joists were 15¡±-18¡± OC, and rarely consistent. Nothing was square, level, or plumb. The ceiling varied by as much as 3¡± in height joist to joist, and 2¡± in OC widths. I had to cut every sheet to exact length and a perfect angle to get even decent fits at every joist. It took forever. Then I thought about trying the Fein. Instant game changer. It went from a hit or miss 50-60 minutes per sheet where we often had to cut a second sheet, to 15-20 minutes with dead nuts, tight fits at every joist. Get one sheet screwed in place except for the last joist, slide the next sheet in, anchor it with a couple of screws, trim the first sheet in place, finish with screws, then repeat. If a sheet was in a bind at the side, I¡¯d just run the Fein down the seam to even it out, and screw it tight.
It was a pretty big deal on a 75 sheet project as I was paying my helper $15 an hour. I probably went thru 10 blades, but it still was well worth the cost even if I never touch the thing again. And honestly, I hope I never have to. But if I¡¯m dumb enough to tackle that kind of project again I¡¯ll deserve it.
Johnny
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I opened the electrical box under the bandsaw table and found the start capacitor leaking oil . I will replace it and hopefully that is the only issue.
Any recommendations on where to purchase a quality replacement? Also, how long for it to discharge when the saw is sitting unplugged?
Thanks,
Sal
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Agreed on the use for the fein.? Renovation,? not furniture.?
I've had the original Fein multitool since the mid 80's, have used it extensively in remodeling and repair work and it's still soldiering on. I paid more back then than their later too-less blade change models now sell for. Originally purchased for sanding installed balusters on a large project, but cutting where no other tool will work with precision is where it shines. Should it ever go belly-up, I'd not hesitate to buy another Fein.
That same year I also purchased a Festo (Festool brand was introduced as their consumer division in 2000) track saw for over $600, plus several hundred more for various length tracks and clamps...,yikes, but very clever design and well worth the investment by saving time cutting sheet goods. I have several other Festo, oops, Festool tools and they're fine for "normal" use. Because I needed a jigsaw NOW on a project and the Bosche JS572EBK was out of stock locally, I bought the top Festool jigsaw four years ago. I'm sure it works well for most uses, but for cutting radius wall sills and plates through 2x and 3x material it sucks. Where cutting continuously in thick material the guides quickly heat the blades, bending them forward, making square cuts impossible, as shown in attachment. The dual rollers on the Bosche eliminate this issue.
I'll still buy Festool where it's the best tool, but the Vecturo, especially at the price? Even in the Festool forum threads I've seen, most members choose the Fein. What am I missing?
On Friday, April 9, 2021, 07:44:17 AM PDT, Joe Jensen < joe.jensen@...> wrote:
I had the original orange one like 25 years ago for sanding difficult spots and it was nearly useless for that as the paper loaded instantly.? Eventually
gave it to my dad. About 5 years ago I bought one for a major master bath remodel and I find it incredibly useful for remodel situations.? I¡¯m now helping 3 kids with old houses and it get used a couple times a month.? For me useful for remodel/construction.?
Not at all for furniture or cabinet making.
?
?
I bought an oscillating tool? I get about as much use from it as I do my RotoZip cutter.? Pretty much? one short use? every five or? so years if that.
On 4/9/21 7:56 AM, imranindiana via wrote:
I go and check their reconditioned site once in a while. There has been nothing until now. Probably won¡¯t last long.
|
I've had the original Fein multitool since the mid 80's, have used it extensively in remodeling and repair work and it's still soldiering on. I paid more back then than their later too-less blade change models now sell for. Originally purchased for sanding installed balusters on a large project, but cutting where no other tool will work with precision is where it shines. Should it ever go belly-up, I'd not hesitate to buy another Fein.
That same year I also purchased a Festo (Festool brand was introduced as their consumer division in 2000) track saw for over $600, plus several hundred more for various length tracks and clamps...,yikes, but very clever design and well worth the investment by saving time cutting sheet goods. I have several other Festo, oops, Festool tools and they're fine for "normal" use. Because I needed a jigsaw NOW on a project and the Bosche JS572EBK was out of stock locally, I bought the top Festool jigsaw four years ago. I'm sure it works well for most uses, but for cutting radius wall sills and plates through 2x and 3x material it sucks. Where cutting continuously in thick material the guides quickly heat the blades, bending them forward, making square cuts impossible, as shown in attachment. The dual rollers on the Bosche eliminate this issue.
I'll still buy Festool where it's the best tool, but the Vecturo, especially at the price? Even in the Festool forum threads I've seen, most members choose the Fein. What am I missing?
On Friday, April 9, 2021, 07:44:17 AM PDT, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
I had the original orange one like 25 years ago for sanding difficult spots and it was nearly useless for that as the paper loaded instantly.? Eventually
gave it to my dad. About 5 years ago I bought one for a major master bath remodel and I find it incredibly useful for remodel situations.? I¡¯m now helping 3 kids with old houses and it get used a couple times a month.? For me useful for remodel/construction.?
Not at all for furniture or cabinet making.
?
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq.
Sent: Friday, April 9, 2021 7:34 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Festool Vecturo $472
?
I bought an oscillating tool? I get about as much use from it as I do my RotoZip cutter.? Pretty much? one short use? every five or? so years if that.
On 4/9/21 7:56 AM, imranindiana via groups.io wrote:
I go and check their reconditioned site once in a while. There has been nothing until now. Probably won¡¯t last long.
|
wow! I hadn¡¯t even considered that. ?Thanks for the clarification Mark.
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No, this if the bar is tilted your fence will appear to have a twist in it. I initially tried to shim like you were planning but it did nothing, wasn¡¯t until I realized the bar was at an angle that that was the adjustment. This may or may not be your issue 1. Measure each side of the bar to see if it is at an angle. 2. (Or do this first) Take the fence extrusion completely off and lay it on something flat like your slider to see if it lays flat.?
That will give you a little more info.? In the end my bar is not completely level with the top but the fence is almost perfect and it slides well
<image2.jpeg>
? Thanks Mark,
Could elaborate on the height element? ?And is the round bar you are referring to, the two round solid rods attached with 4 machine screws to the fence itself?
Yaron Pardo
Yaron Pardo Workshop
I had a similar issue - check the round bar adjustment, loosen it a little and play around with it , there is a specific height but can¡¯t remember what it is right now. Felder service would have it or it might be in the manual Anyways that¡¯s what fixed mine, it wasn¡¯t that that fence face was twisted it was that bar at an angle and a little low knocking it out of wack. ? ?Hi all,
I was hoping someone might have a quick fix to a fence issue I recently noticed.? I have an AD 941 (2018) and had it commissioned by a felder tech after it arrived.
When I have the fence locked in at factory 90, the infeed reads 90 while the the outfeed gradually reads out of square.? At the end of the outfeed, the lower portion of the fence is tight to the square and about 1/16" open at the top.
The twist is roughly half as bad over the cutter head- so it appears to be a consistent and gradual twist. I've evaluated the flatness of the fence with a straight-edge in locked and loose position and it seems pretty flat.
Do I need to shim out the 4 connection points where the extrusion connects to the barrels ( I realize there's likely a different name) in order to get better results?
Thanks for your help!
Yaron
<8F229352-B098-49D2-BEDC-E7902A6162AD_1_105_c.jpeg><5A4DAF12-DEA6-4718-85D6-A3E474FA1DC5_1_105_c.jpeg><3BB20B48-BDEA-4481-A1EB-5C8E909782E5_1_105_c.jpeg><4B150949-6E64-4623-AD40-667A2CB2A187_1_102_o.jpeg>
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No, this if the bar is tilted your fence will appear to have a twist in it. I initially tried to shim like you were planning but it did nothing, wasn¡¯t until I realized the bar was at an angle that that was the adjustment. This may or may not be your issue 1. Measure each side of the bar to see if it is at an angle. 2. (Or do this first) Take the fence extrusion completely off and lay it on something flat like your slider to see if it lays flat.?
That will give you a little more info.? In the end my bar is not completely level with the top but the fence is almost perfect and it slides well
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On Apr 9, 2021, at 11:05 AM, Yaron Pardo <yaronpardo@...> wrote:
? Thanks Mark,
Could elaborate on the height element? ?And is the round bar you are referring to, the two round solid rods attached with 4 machine screws to the fence itself?
Yaron Pardo
Yaron Pardo Workshop
I had a similar issue - check the round bar adjustment, loosen it a little and play around with it , there is a specific height but can¡¯t remember what it is right now. Felder service would have it or it might be in the manual Anyways that¡¯s what fixed mine, it wasn¡¯t that that fence face was twisted it was that bar at an angle and a little low knocking it out of wack. ? ?Hi all,
I was hoping someone might have a quick fix to a fence issue I recently noticed.? I have an AD 941 (2018) and had it commissioned by a felder tech after it arrived.
When I have the fence locked in at factory 90, the infeed reads 90 while the the outfeed gradually reads out of square.? At the end of the outfeed, the lower portion of the fence is tight to the square and about 1/16" open at the top.
The twist is roughly half as bad over the cutter head- so it appears to be a consistent and gradual twist. I've evaluated the flatness of the fence with a straight-edge in locked and loose position and it seems pretty flat.
Do I need to shim out the 4 connection points where the extrusion connects to the barrels ( I realize there's likely a different name) in order to get better results?
Thanks for your help!
Yaron
<8F229352-B098-49D2-BEDC-E7902A6162AD_1_105_c.jpeg><5A4DAF12-DEA6-4718-85D6-A3E474FA1DC5_1_105_c.jpeg><3BB20B48-BDEA-4481-A1EB-5C8E909782E5_1_105_c.jpeg><4B150949-6E64-4623-AD40-667A2CB2A187_1_102_o.jpeg>
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Manual says to check oil and confirm it is no more than 4cm below plug. Here is the plug - red arrow
I figured I need to turn it upside down to check as it is only 1cm above bottom. So I got it turned like this
Well you cannot see anything other than a sprocket (I think) facing you. Then I thought maybe this is what they mean
Ding ding ding. Sides of the wheels (not installed) are pointing straight up. Got it level and checked. Well I could not see any oil. Took a sliver of wood and it was full to near top. I could not see it because it was pretty much clear. This is 20 yrs old, so I guess I will check in another 20 or more likely never; I am 61.
Imran
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On Fri, Apr 9, 2021, 10:08 AM Marlowe McGraw via <marlomcgraw= [email protected]> wrote: I'm a big fan of festool Sanders vacuums and Dominos.? ?There are certain tools that seem to offer little improvement over the standard.? ? Fein makes a great reciprocal tool, Bosch a great jigsaw and Dewalt 20 drills are very capable.? I don't know what the 2x price of festool gets you in those tools.? ?Just my opinion of course...
Marlowe McGraw?
On Fri, Apr 9, 2021, 9:33 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
I bought an oscillating tool? I get about as much use from it as
I do my RotoZip cutter.? Pretty much? one short use? every five
or? so years if that.
On 4/9/21 7:56 AM, imranindiana via
wrote:
I go and check their reconditioned site once in a while.
There has been nothing until now. Probably won¡¯t last long.
Imran
|
I'm a big fan of festool Sanders vacuums and Dominos.? ?There are certain tools that seem to offer little improvement over the standard.? ? Fein makes a great reciprocal tool, Bosch a great jigsaw and Dewalt 20 drills are very capable.? I don't know what the 2x price of festool gets you in those tools.? ?Just my opinion of course...
Marlowe McGraw?
On Fri, Apr 9, 2021, 9:33 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
I bought an oscillating tool? I get about as much use from it as
I do my RotoZip cutter.? Pretty much? one short use? every five
or? so years if that.
On 4/9/21 7:56 AM, imranindiana via
wrote:
I go and check their reconditioned site once in a while.
There has been nothing until now. Probably won¡¯t last long.
Imran
|
Thanks Mark,
Could elaborate on the height element? ?And is the round bar you are referring to, the two round solid rods attached with 4 machine screws to the fence itself?
Yaron Pardo
Yaron Pardo Workshop
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I had a similar issue - check the round bar adjustment, loosen it a little and play around with it , there is a specific height but can¡¯t remember what it is right now. Felder service would have it or it might be in the manual Anyways that¡¯s what fixed mine, it wasn¡¯t that that fence face was twisted it was that bar at an angle and a little low knocking it out of wack. ? ?Hi all,
I was hoping someone might have a quick fix to a fence issue I recently noticed.? I have an AD 941 (2018) and had it commissioned by a felder tech after it arrived.
When I have the fence locked in at factory 90, the infeed reads 90 while the the outfeed gradually reads out of square.? At the end of the outfeed, the lower portion of the fence is tight to the square and about 1/16" open at the top.
The twist is roughly half as bad over the cutter head- so it appears to be a consistent and gradual twist. I've evaluated the flatness of the fence with a straight-edge in locked and loose position and it seems pretty flat.
Do I need to shim out the 4 connection points where the extrusion connects to the barrels ( I realize there's likely a different name) in order to get better results?
Thanks for your help!
Yaron
<8F229352-B098-49D2-BEDC-E7902A6162AD_1_105_c.jpeg><5A4DAF12-DEA6-4718-85D6-A3E474FA1DC5_1_105_c.jpeg><3BB20B48-BDEA-4481-A1EB-5C8E909782E5_1_105_c.jpeg><4B150949-6E64-4623-AD40-667A2CB2A187_1_102_o.jpeg>
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I have dewalt version. When you need it there is almost no substitute. Just used in on the install of the massive log mantle. There was window trim in the way of the return. $120 well spent.
Imran
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On Apr 9, 2021, at 10:44 AM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote: ?
I had the original orange one like 25 years ago for sanding difficult spots and it was nearly useless for that as the paper loaded instantly.? Eventually
gave it to my dad. About 5 years ago I bought one for a major master bath remodel and I find it incredibly useful for remodel situations.? I¡¯m now helping 3 kids with old houses and it get used a couple times a month.? For me useful for remodel/construction.?
Not at all for furniture or cabinet making.
?
?
I bought an oscillating tool? I get about as much use from it as I do my RotoZip cutter.? Pretty much? one short use? every five or? so years if that.
On 4/9/21 7:56 AM, imranindiana via groups.io wrote:
I go and check their reconditioned site once in a while. There has been nothing until now. Probably won¡¯t last long.
|
I had the original orange one like 25 years ago for sanding difficult spots and it was nearly useless for that as the paper loaded instantly.? Eventually
gave it to my dad. About 5 years ago I bought one for a major master bath remodel and I find it incredibly useful for remodel situations.? I¡¯m now helping 3 kids with old houses and it get used a couple times a month.? For me useful for remodel/construction.?
Not at all for furniture or cabinet making.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq.
Sent: Friday, April 9, 2021 7:34 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Festool Vecturo $472
?
I bought an oscillating tool? I get about as much use from it as I do my RotoZip cutter.? Pretty much? one short use? every five or? so years if that.
On 4/9/21 7:56 AM, imranindiana via groups.io wrote:
I go and check their reconditioned site once in a while. There has been nothing until now. Probably won¡¯t last long.
|
I bought an oscillating tool? I get about as much use from it as
I do my RotoZip cutter.? Pretty much? one short use? every five
or? so years if that.
On 4/9/21 7:56 AM, imranindiana via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
I go and check their reconditioned site once in a while.
There has been nothing until now. Probably won¡¯t last long.
Imran
|
There has been a ton of stuff on recon in the last 4 to 6 weeks. It goes fast, often in 15 minutes.
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I go and check their reconditioned site once in a while. There has been nothing until now. Probably won¡¯t last long.
Imran
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Re: Red Grandis for patio furniture
Thanks Cliff. Good idea on the plastic feet.
Michael
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On Apr 9, 2021, at 9:09 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?If you use plastic or butyl feet on the furniture so that there is no
continual moisture trapped between the feet and the decking you
should get a long life from it.
On 4/9/21 8:28 AM, Michael Todrin wrote:
Red Grandis
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Re: Red Grandis for patio furniture
If you use plastic or butyl? feet on the furniture? so that there is no
continual moisture? trapped? between the? feet and the decking? you
should get a long life? from it.
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On 4/9/21 8:28 AM, Michael Todrin wrote: Red Grandis
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Ode Re: [FOG] PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?
U should be happy with those,,,,it¡¯s all in the setup! Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 9, 2021, at 5:07 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I did not want to say it but it is a deep blue. Aqua Blue is apropos.
Imran?
On Apr 9, 2021, at 5:13 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Imran, the times are changing. ?That wheel is so 2019!
Sure David ? I don¡¯t care it is pretty ? and am sure will be an improvement on shaper PF for sure. Those wheels are nearly 20 yr old and I have a board with sandpaper glued on it just to keep them going w/o slipping. <image0.jpeg>
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
Imran ? Looks like mauve to me.
?Got my PF wheels ba <image0.jpeg> ck from Axiom today. I decided to go with 50 duro for both shaper and jointer. At least I like the color better than yellow. They are slick to touch which is not what I expected.
<image0.jpeg>
If your Comatic hubs are like mine (see pic) you will have to send them in for re-coating. It is cheaper to re-coat ($18) anyways vs buying the hub ($26) with your choice of poly coating.
Can¡¯t wait to try them out.
Imran ? Oh! if Corey at Axiom is right, they have moved on to Yellow for 60 duro. Must be a change for spring of 2021 collection.
? Very Funny. Did you edit that? ? Imran:
I stopped using Western Roller because they have their own proprietary hubs that limit tire width. They do not recover OEM hubs. ?Axion will recover anything. ?I specify durometer by color. ?Dark blue is the hardest, burgundy in the middle, tan is softer. ?Mauve is about right for the jointer. ? David Best - via mobile phone? ? Lucky, David or anyone else,
No disagreement on technique. Do either of you have a recommendation on durometer for PF wheels?
60 has been recommended here but wanted to get clarification if 60 is good for both shaper and jointer?
BTW, Western roller offers?40, 50, 60, 70, 75, 85 and 95 Duro Shore A
Imran ? I¡¯m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn¡¯t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I¡¯ve done lots of 16¡± wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.
On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi Imran: There is a common misperception that ¡°minimum down force¡± is desirable for a jointer. I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results. Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board¡¯s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results). For scenarios where the jointer¡¯s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer¡¯s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there¡¯s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup ¡ª concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually. This process prepares the worst boards to a ¡°flatness¡± that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here. Minimum down force is irrelevant. Warm regards, David Lucky On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website
Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?
Imran
On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.
I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?
Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.
If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.
Imran
<image0.jpeg>
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Red Grandis for patio furniture
I am planning to build a table, some benches and chairs for a patio and was wondering if anyone has any experience with Red Grandis in an outdoor setting regarding rot resistance and dimensional stability. ?
Thanks
Michael?
www.todrinfinewoodwork.com
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imran
Joe Jensen