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Re: PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?

 

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Hi Joe:

I’m pretty sure you meant David B., but since he was replying agreement to my post I thought I’d take a risk and reply myself. In my reply, I absolutely don’t mean to patronise — you probably already know all this stuff. Forgive me if I go over known ground…

If a board is already flat, then “light forces with shallow passes” will probably get the job done. I say “probably” because the hard timber we get in Australia won’t pass nicely over the cutterhead without some serious drive help from the feeder, especially for wider pieces (say 300mm and wider). But let’s say the timber is of reasonable species, reasonable dimensions, and reasonably flat. A single pass of 1mm or 2mm will flatten the board, all-at-once, so it doesn’t matter whether the feeder is adjusted for a light force or a strong one. The key is that the job was done “all-at-once”.

If a board is significantly not-flat — bowed, cupped, twisted — then any full length pass must get the majority of the “not-flatness” out, otherwise, a couple of things will likely happen:

1. If the power feeder is adjusted so there is reasonable force pinning the board to the jointer surface, it is very likely the feeder pressure will partially flatten the board while it is being machined, only for the board to spring back after it is ejected from the feeder.

2. This is especially the case for a bowed board (which looks “curved” when viewed on-edge). In this instance, after the machine passes over the cutterhead, and under the feeder, it will “spring” back into its natural curved state. It doesn’t take much pressure to distort a bowed board, especially one of some length — say 2m or longer. All that has been achieved in this instance is that the board’s surface has been smoothed; but the board itself is still bowed.

3. This problem of spring back occurs less for cupped material (unless it is really thin) because even a strongly set power feeder will not unduly flatten a cupped board across its width during machining. So there is no, or less, spring back.

4. For a twisted board, it doesn’t really matter whether the feeder is adjusted lightly or strongly. Light passes will not correct the twist as the board is likely to rock one way to the other as it passes under the feeder wheels (especially for short boards), or else corkscrew or propeller through as long boards are pinned under the feeder but twist through the cut as it extends off the end of the outfeed table. In other words, a twisted board is unstable unless it is manually flattened (e.g. David B’s suggestion with the scrub plane), machine flattened (by hand beside the feeder or with the feeder moved out of the way), or the depth of cut is sufficient enough to flatten the board all-at-once (at least to 75% flat).

In summary, and in theory, a lightly adjusted feeder and light passes will work just fine for flat or nearly flat timber. And in theory, a lightly adjusted feeder will flatten badly warped boards, as long as the board is not thin, does not rock while being fed, and does not stick/stall because more drive pressure is required. Joe, this may be what you’re thinking?

But in practice, boards need a reasonable amount of drive pressure from the feeder to work its way through the cutterhead. This is especially the case for cantankerous Australian timbers, and timbers of large dimensions. And this pressure will usually distort a warped board as it passes under the feeder wheels. If the depth of cut is not sufficient to obtain that 75% all-at-once flatness, or better, then the machinist will be chasing his/her/them tail, and never achieve flatness.

I hope this helps.

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 23 Mar 2021, at 6:48 am, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:

David, why would “light forces with shallow passes” not get the job done. Would this not be like using a hand plan?? Why does pressing a board flat with the feeder not press some of the bow out before it passes the cutter?
?
From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?david@...?via?
Sent:?Sunday, March 21, 2021 6:14 PM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re: [FOG] PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?
?
I’m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn’t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I’ve done lots of 16” wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.
?
David Best

?
?

?



On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that “minimum down force” is desirable for a jointer.?

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.?

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board’s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer’s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer’s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there’s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup — concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a “flatness” that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.?

Minimum down force is irrelevant.?


Warm regards,
David Lucky


On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via??<imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via??<imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












<image0.jpeg>





?


smime.p7s
smime.p7s

#Servicing 2011 Dual51 and Similar Jointer/Planer #servicing

 

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?Thought I document some details of my service effort on Dual51. In case of Dual51 the electrical cabinet in the rear of the machine needs to be removed to get access to cutterhead drive belt and feed rollers. Inside the electrical cabinet, there is a ground wire that is screwed into the back wall (and therefore the chassis behind it) of the cabinet. This ground wire screw has to be removed to remove the electrical cabinet. This is not mentioned in my manual and was a source of great frustration first time around. Once the back is exposed you will see something like this (this is actually the after pic):



There is a removable link in the chain but be aware that putting the chain back by your self is bit of a pain. I was able to do it but it will go much quicker with a helping hand.

Once chain is removed it can be cleaned thoroughly and removing it allows good access to all sprockets.




My manual says use machine grease for chain and related parts but I just used shaper spindle grease which actually appears to be a bit viscous for the chain, at least at 50F shop temp. I wanted to ensure that the chain rollers got greased so I used the heat gun from a distance to warm things up a bit.



I wiped access grease off. The drive belt looked fine so I closed the rear up.

Next, I removed the covers on both sides under the planer bed. There is a grease zerk for each bed elevation post. I used Felder grease gun to pump grease into these. I continued pumping expecting the grease to come out up top but nothing did then realized that it is actually coming out from underneath. It is not easy to see what is happening below as there is a grill. As I write this, I realize that I could have removed this grill but it did not occur to me to do so at the moment. Once I realized that grease comes out from bottom. I lowered the planer bed causing some of the elevation post to extend below the chassis floor and pumped some more. This way the extra grease actually goes on the post and when the table is raised/lowered a few times it lubricates the post.

?

There is a chain that drives the sprockets on all posts. Red arrow points to this chain. It looked good so I did not feel the need to clean and lube.?I wiped all excess grease, especially below the chassis floor as dust can get to the extended posts.

Hope this is helpful.

Imran
Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

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Joe ,
I run 1.5” woodmizer blades on my 36” oliver with Centauro power feed. They make to spec.
Bi mental I think and about 50.00 ea or there abouts . Woodmiser sharpens for maybe 15 or 20 bucks. Blades are good for 3 to 5 sharpening. I am going to be resawing 20’ clear quarter sawn Douglas Fir 2x6 in a week or two for paneling.
mac,,,


martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Mar 22, 2021, at 6:59 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
FWIW, I have sawed 1/16” thick veneer on my LT16SEC with Laguna 1” resaw king. It was 2x12 Cypress and I just did it to check the resaw king blade. I was blown away with uniformity, maybe I am easily amused. I am sure my bandsaw is no where close to suggested tension.

Imran

On Mar 22, 2021, at 5:42 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:

?

Blade breakage may be a point.? The only time I broke a big blade was when it was rubbing a lot on the ceramic rear rub disk with Laguna guides.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 2:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

Joe, I can't speak to the larger blade.? The tension arguments go on forever.? My experience is not that different than yours although I see an improvement- slight but still an improvement - with 25K vs lower.? Mainly when using the full height of the resaw and also to keep the blade from moving into the rear bearing.? I try to keep the blade from heating up from rubbing the bearing.? I don't have any scientific evidence, I just know I haven't broken any blades at 25K and I broke Trimaster blades at lower tension.? Dave

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:36 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

I spoke with people at both Tannewitz and Northfield on these saws.? Interestingly both unprompted offered that the internet groups obsession with 25,000 psi was flat out wrong. ?The Northfield guy said that’s a spec for horizontal steel cutting bandsaws and irrelevant for wood saws. ?I being an engineer have a Starrett Bandsaw tension gauge so I’ve been tensioning with that for years.? With my Felder FB540 I can’t get the 1” carbide blade over about 20,000 psi.? that said, it cuts perfectly and it always has.? I played with it at 15,000 and 20,000 and I notice no difference.? Having been at this for 40 years I never knew about tension gauges and always tensioned until the blade was “just taut enough”.? That always worked unless the blade was dull or you feed the stock too fast.?

?

Is there a big benefit of a 1 ?” blade over a 1” blade over a ?” blade for sawing veneers?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 1:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

What you are describing matches what I have been told by others who have compared NF with Tanny or Oliver.? The tension spring and mechanism might have more to do with which to use for resawing than the castings but only using each will tell the true story.? I would avoid the 1.25" Carbide blade on either.? The .035" band on the 3/4 or 1" will be easier to tension than the .042 on the 1 1/4.? My Olivers tension the 1" but I have no experience with the thicker band.? Dave

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:00 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

Also, the owner I bought from purchased used in 2006. He restored it including having Northfield true and balance the wheels and put on new tires.? New pads on the carter guides, etc.? Owner never put it in service and it sat on a pallet unused since 2006.? Fresh paint too.? Should just needs power.

Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

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FWIW, I have sawed 1/16” thick veneer on my LT16SEC with Laguna 1” resaw king. It was 2x12 Cypress and I just did it to check the resaw king blade. I was blown away with uniformity, maybe I am easily amused. I am sure my bandsaw is no where close to suggested tension.

Imran

On Mar 22, 2021, at 5:42 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:

?

Blade breakage may be a point.? The only time I broke a big blade was when it was rubbing a lot on the ceramic rear rub disk with Laguna guides.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 2:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

Joe, I can't speak to the larger blade.? The tension arguments go on forever.? My experience is not that different than yours although I see an improvement- slight but still an improvement - with 25K vs lower.? Mainly when using the full height of the resaw and also to keep the blade from moving into the rear bearing.? I try to keep the blade from heating up from rubbing the bearing.? I don't have any scientific evidence, I just know I haven't broken any blades at 25K and I broke Trimaster blades at lower tension.? Dave

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:36 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

I spoke with people at both Tannewitz and Northfield on these saws.? Interestingly both unprompted offered that the internet groups obsession with 25,000 psi was flat out wrong. ?The Northfield guy said that’s a spec for horizontal steel cutting bandsaws and irrelevant for wood saws. ?I being an engineer have a Starrett Bandsaw tension gauge so I’ve been tensioning with that for years.? With my Felder FB540 I can’t get the 1” carbide blade over about 20,000 psi.? that said, it cuts perfectly and it always has.? I played with it at 15,000 and 20,000 and I notice no difference.? Having been at this for 40 years I never knew about tension gauges and always tensioned until the blade was “just taut enough”.? That always worked unless the blade was dull or you feed the stock too fast.?

?

Is there a big benefit of a 1 ?” blade over a 1” blade over a ?” blade for sawing veneers?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 1:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

What you are describing matches what I have been told by others who have compared NF with Tanny or Oliver.? The tension spring and mechanism might have more to do with which to use for resawing than the castings but only using each will tell the true story.? I would avoid the 1.25" Carbide blade on either.? The .035" band on the 3/4 or 1" will be easier to tension than the .042 on the 1 1/4.? My Olivers tension the 1" but I have no experience with the thicker band.? Dave

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:00 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

Also, the owner I bought from purchased used in 2006. He restored it including having Northfield true and balance the wheels and put on new tires.? New pads on the carter guides, etc.? Owner never put it in service and it sat on a pallet unused since 2006.? Fresh paint too.? Should just needs power.

Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

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A strong magnet will destroy the magnetic banding on any of these DRO units, Fiama or the Siko units that Felder uses….

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com




On Mar 22, 2021, at 12:50 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote:

So, as part of this hobby, I’ve been bringing in the kids (10 & 6 YO boys) to teach them as well. ?We have safety rules on the wall, go through checklists before using equipment etc...because it’s smart and engineers love writing procedures. ?Anyway, I got some DRO parallel arms in from Brian last week and went to install them. ?I used my precision level to make sure they were installed correctly. ?When I went to use them, I saw that they were way off for some reason. Called Brian to troubleshoot and the only thing we could come up with was that they were subjected to a strong magnetic field during shipping that threw them off. ?So I ordered a magnetic field viewer to check the strips?and confirmed that this was the case. ?When I told my oldest about that, he got a worried look on his face. ?He then told me that since I’m old and my eyes aren’t great (which they are), he decided to double check my work when I got the arms setup with the WIXY digital level that we have. ?They digital level that has a very strong magnet on the bottom of it....

-Annu

Re: AD741 Delivery

 

Enjoy your new combo Andrew. I got the same thing about 4 months ago and am very happy with it. Lots of helpful people here on this site if you have any problems.

Regards, Tony
Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

开云体育

Blade breakage may be a point.? The only time I broke a big blade was when it was rubbing a lot on the ceramic rear rub disk with Laguna guides.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 2:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

Joe, I can't speak to the larger blade.? The tension arguments go on forever.? My experience is not that different than yours although I see an improvement- slight but still an improvement - with 25K vs lower.? Mainly when using the full height of the resaw and also to keep the blade from moving into the rear bearing.? I try to keep the blade from heating up from rubbing the bearing.? I don't have any scientific evidence, I just know I haven't broken any blades at 25K and I broke Trimaster blades at lower tension.? Dave

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:36 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

I spoke with people at both Tannewitz and Northfield on these saws.? Interestingly both unprompted offered that the internet groups obsession with 25,000 psi was flat out wrong. ?The Northfield guy said that’s a spec for horizontal steel cutting bandsaws and irrelevant for wood saws. ?I being an engineer have a Starrett Bandsaw tension gauge so I’ve been tensioning with that for years.? With my Felder FB540 I can’t get the 1” carbide blade over about 20,000 psi.? that said, it cuts perfectly and it always has.? I played with it at 15,000 and 20,000 and I notice no difference.? Having been at this for 40 years I never knew about tension gauges and always tensioned until the blade was “just taut enough”.? That always worked unless the blade was dull or you feed the stock too fast.?

?

Is there a big benefit of a 1 ?” blade over a 1” blade over a ?” blade for sawing veneers?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 1:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

What you are describing matches what I have been told by others who have compared NF with Tanny or Oliver.? The tension spring and mechanism might have more to do with which to use for resawing than the castings but only using each will tell the true story.? I would avoid the 1.25" Carbide blade on either.? The .035" band on the 3/4 or 1" will be easier to tension than the .042 on the 1 1/4.? My Olivers tension the 1" but I have no experience with the thicker band.? Dave

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:00 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

Also, the owner I bought from purchased used in 2006. He restored it including having Northfield true and balance the wheels and put on new tires.? New pads on the carter guides, etc.? Owner never put it in service and it sat on a pallet unused since 2006.? Fresh paint too.? Should just needs power.

Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

开云体育

Joe, I can't speak to the larger blade.? The tension arguments go on forever.? My experience is not that different than yours although I see an improvement- slight but still an improvement - with 25K vs lower.? Mainly when using the full height of the resaw and also to keep the blade from moving into the rear bearing.? I try to keep the blade from heating up from rubbing the bearing.? I don't have any scientific evidence, I just know I haven't broken any blades at 25K and I broke Trimaster blades at lower tension.? Dave

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:36 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw
?

I spoke with people at both Tannewitz and Northfield on these saws.? Interestingly both unprompted offered that the internet groups obsession with 25,000 psi was flat out wrong. ?The Northfield guy said that’s a spec for horizontal steel cutting bandsaws and irrelevant for wood saws. ?I being an engineer have a Starrett Bandsaw tension gauge so I’ve been tensioning with that for years.? With my Felder FB540 I can’t get the 1” carbide blade over about 20,000 psi.? that said, it cuts perfectly and it always has.? I played with it at 15,000 and 20,000 and I notice no difference.? Having been at this for 40 years I never knew about tension gauges and always tensioned until the blade was “just taut enough”.? That always worked unless the blade was dull or you feed the stock too fast.?

?

Is there a big benefit of a 1 ?” blade over a 1” blade over a ?” blade for sawing veneers?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 1:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

What you are describing matches what I have been told by others who have compared NF with Tanny or Oliver.? The tension spring and mechanism might have more to do with which to use for resawing than the castings but only using each will tell the true story.? I would avoid the 1.25" Carbide blade on either.? The .035" band on the 3/4 or 1" will be easier to tension than the .042 on the 1 1/4.? My Olivers tension the 1" but I have no experience with the thicker band.? Dave

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:00 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

Also, the owner I bought from purchased used in 2006. He restored it including having Northfield true and balance the wheels and put on new tires.? New pads on the carter guides, etc.? Owner never put it in service and it sat on a pallet unused since 2006.? Fresh paint too.? Should just needs power.

Beating flat bandsaw blades

 

? ?I have 2 Laguna Resaw king blades that are $125+ each and teeth are great, but one drug a piece of foam through the lower wheel (cutting for upholstery) and the other pulled the dust collection plastic block right through on the first day it was installed!
??
I recently came upon some information that a kinked blade can be beaten back to shape. I always thought this was impossible due to work hardening. I'm not sure I trust the source. Has anyone ever re-flattened a kink in a bandsaw blade? What was your technique and results???

--
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...
Re: PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?

 

开云体育

David, why would “light forces with shallow passes” not get the job done. Would this not be like using a hand plan?? Why does pressing a board flat with the feeder not press some of the bow out before it passes the cutter?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of david@... via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2021 6:14 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?

?

I’m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn’t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I’ve done lots of 16” wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.

?

David Best

?

?

?



On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

?

Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that “minimum down force” is desirable for a jointer.

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board’s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer’s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer’s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there’s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup — concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a “flatness” that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.

Minimum down force is irrelevant.


Warm regards,
David Lucky


On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












<image0.jpeg>





?
Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

开云体育

I spoke with people at both Tannewitz and Northfield on these saws.? Interestingly both unprompted offered that the internet groups obsession with 25,000 psi was flat out wrong. ?The Northfield guy said that’s a spec for horizontal steel cutting bandsaws and irrelevant for wood saws. ?I being an engineer have a Starrett Bandsaw tension gauge so I’ve been tensioning with that for years.? With my Felder FB540 I can’t get the 1” carbide blade over about 20,000 psi.? that said, it cuts perfectly and it always has.? I played with it at 15,000 and 20,000 and I notice no difference.? Having been at this for 40 years I never knew about tension gauges and always tensioned until the blade was “just taut enough”.? That always worked unless the blade was dull or you feed the stock too fast.?

?

Is there a big benefit of a 1 ?” blade over a 1” blade over a ?” blade for sawing veneers?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 1:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

What you are describing matches what I have been told by others who have compared NF with Tanny or Oliver.? The tension spring and mechanism might have more to do with which to use for resawing than the castings but only using each will tell the true story.? I would avoid the 1.25" Carbide blade on either.? The .035" band on the 3/4 or 1" will be easier to tension than the .042 on the 1 1/4.? My Olivers tension the 1" but I have no experience with the thicker band.? Dave

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:00 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw

?

Also, the owner I bought from purchased used in 2006. He restored it including having Northfield true and balance the wheels and put on new tires.? New pads on the carter guides, etc.? Owner never put it in service and it sat on a pallet unused since 2006.? Fresh paint too.? Should just needs power.

Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

Ouch. When I was a kid, I remember getting a magnetic sculpture?set and sitting on top of the TV because I was so proud to show off my work. Then my parents came home. Then we had to get a new TV, couldn't be "demagnetized" right in the top/middle of the CRT screen. Sorry you?have to replace strips.


On Mon, Mar 22, 2021 at 3:10 PM Steve Lyde via <stlyde=[email protected]> wrote:
I just got my unit from Brian so I will keep that in mind.?

Steve Lyde

On Mar 22, 2021, at 3:02 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote:

?Have to change out the magnetic tape.



--
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...
Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

开云体育

What you are describing matches what I have been told by others who have compared NF with Tanny or Oliver.? The tension spring and mechanism might have more to do with which to use for resawing than the castings but only using each will tell the true story.? I would avoid the 1.25" Carbide blade on either.? The .035" band on the 3/4 or 1" will be easier to tension than the .042 on the 1 1/4.? My Olivers tension the 1" but I have no experience with the thicker band.? Dave

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 4:00 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Northfield 32" Bandsaw
?
Also, the owner I bought from purchased used in 2006. He restored it including having Northfield true and balance the wheels and put on new tires.? New pads on the carter guides, etc.? Owner never put it in service and it sat on a pallet unused since 2006.? Fresh paint too.? Should just needs power.

Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

开云体育

I just got my unit from Brian so I will keep that in mind.?

Steve Lyde

On Mar 22, 2021, at 3:02 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote:

?Have to change out the magnetic tape.

Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

Have to change out the magnetic tape.
Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

开云体育

Congrats! As a northfield collector I can assure you - It is an amazing machine. (I am biased)

On Mar 22, 2021, at 4:00 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:

?Also, the owner I bought from purchased used in 2006. He restored it including having Northfield true and balance the wheels and put on new tires.? New pads on the carter guides, etc.? Owner never put it in service and it sat on a pallet unused since 2006.? Fresh paint too.? Should just needs power.

Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

Also, the owner I bought from purchased used in 2006. He restored it including having Northfield true and balance the wheels and put on new tires.? New pads on the carter guides, etc.? Owner never put it in service and it sat on a pallet unused since 2006.? Fresh paint too.? Should just needs power.
Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

开云体育

So how do you fix it?

Steve Lyde

On Mar 22, 2021, at 2:50 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote:

?So, as part of this hobby, I’ve been bringing in the kids (10 & 6 YO boys) to teach them as well. ?We have safety rules on the wall, go through checklists before using equipment etc...because it’s smart and engineers love writing procedures. ?Anyway, I got some DRO parallel arms in from Brian last week and went to install them. ?I used my precision level to make sure they were installed correctly. ?When I went to use them, I saw that they were way off for some reason. Called Brian to troubleshoot and the only thing we could come up with was that they were subjected to a strong magnetic field during shipping that threw them off. ?So I ordered a magnetic field viewer to check the strips?and confirmed that this was the case. ?When I told my oldest about that, he got a worried look on his face. ?He then told me that since I’m old and my eyes aren’t great (which they are), he decided to double check my work when I got the arms setup with the WIXY digital level that we have. ?They digital level that has a very strong magnet on the bottom of it....

-Annu

Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

Yes - kids! Always have to keep them in the troubleshooting tree! LOL.

Is the solution to just reset the zero on the Fiama strips, or did Brian give you a special procedure to fix? I'm interested, because I have kids too.

On Mon, Mar 22, 2021 at 2:50 PM <annu.marwaha@...> wrote:
So, as part of this hobby, I’ve been bringing in the kids (10 & 6 YO boys) to teach them as well.? We have safety rules on the wall, go through checklists before using equipment etc...because it’s smart and engineers love writing procedures.? Anyway, I got some DRO parallel arms in from Brian last week and went to install them.? I used my precision level to make sure they were installed correctly.? When I went to use them, I saw that they were way off for some reason. Called Brian to troubleshoot and the only thing we could come up with was that they were subjected to a strong magnetic field during shipping that threw them off.? So I ordered a magnetic field viewer to check the strips?and confirmed that this was the case.? When I told my oldest about that, he got a worried look on his face.? He then told me that since I’m old and my eyes aren’t great (which they are), he decided to double check my work when I got the arms setup with the WIXY digital level that we have.? They digital level that has a very strong magnet on the bottom of it....

-Annu



--
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...
Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

I ended up winning the auction for the Northfield 32" bandsaw.? I was able to pick it up Saturday.? I am mid-restoration on a 30" Tannewitz PH bandsaw and it's interesting to compare the two. The resaw height, overall machine height, table size, and working height are all nearly identical.? The Tannewitz has a 3HP 900RPM motor and the Northfield has a 5HP 900 RPM motor.? The Northfield is a couple hundred pound lighter according to the spec sheets but in direct comparison it seems to be quite a bit lighter build.? On the Tannewitz, the upper wheel bearing assembly, all the height adjusting stuff, blade support, etc are common with the Tannewitz 36" saw.? They are all quite a bit heavier than the Northfield.? Both may be plenty heavy, not sure as I have not run them. Also, main casting on the Tannewitz is thicker where I can feel with my fingers than the Northfield and the table castings are heavier.??


I plan to have one set up as a dedicated resaw and one for other cutting.? I am thinking that the Tannewitz even though it has a smaller HP motor would be the resaw machine and the Northfield would be the other as it is a 32" wheel machine and the other is a 30" machine.

?

Any thoughts? Also, does the width of the blade, 3/4" carbide,1" carbide, or 1 1/4" carbide blade make much of difference?
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